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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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I 



FARTHEST NORTH; 



OR, 



THE LIFE AND EXPLORATIONS OF LIEUTENANT 

JAMES BOOTH LOCH WOOD, OF THE 

GREELY ARCTIC EXPEDITION. 



CHARLES LANMAN. 



NEW TOEE: ' 
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 

1, 3, inn 5 BOND STEEET. 
1885. 






When we thi?ik of the adventure of our times ; when 
we recall the great Arctic explorations that have called 
forth an endurance and daring which have been unsur- 
passed in other days ; . . . what is there that is more 
romantic tha7t they are in any history of any age? 

From a Thanksgiving Sermon by 
Rev. Phillips Brooks. 



Copyright, 1885, 
By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. 



i 



P E E FA C E 



It is believed that this book, with its true but 
none the less stirring adventures, will be of much in- 
terest to the general public, as well as gratifying to 
the many warm friends of Lieutenant Lockwood. It 
will likewise correct any erroneous impressions which 
may have arisen from the publication of garbled ex- 
tracts from the official journals kept by the different 
members of the Greely party and, by order of the 
War Department, laid open to the public. By this 
order, Lockwood's journal and those of others became 
public property, and hence any reference to them in 
advance of their official publication is allowable. 

The few pages devoted to the early life can not be 
expected to especially interest the general public, but 
will gratify Lieutenant Lockwood's friends. They 
are here produced to give them permanency, and to 
show his sterling character. 

No attempt is here made to give a history of the 
Expedition, and only so much of Lockwood's journal 
is produced as shows his connection therewith. The 
voyage to Lady Franklin Bay is given more in detail, 



2 PREFACE. 

as it presents a lively picture of an interesting people 
not much, known, and as it exhibits the buoyant spir- 
its with which he entered upon the work, before dis- 
sensions in camp had checked them, though without 
marring his faithfulness and energy. The important 
part he had in the enterprise, his zeal, energy, and 
loyalty to his chief and to the cause, all are fully set 
forth, and will be more clearly seen when the more 
elaborate history of the Expedition shall be published 
by Lieutenant Greely, as will shortly be done. 

Although the journal has been freely used, its 
language and style have not been closely followed, ex- 
cept in those parts quoted which refer to Lockwood's 
sentiments and feelings. The deep pathos of these 
could be expressed as well in no other words. 

His journal is very full and complete on the peril- 
ous boat-voyage to Cape Sabine, and in the heart- 
rending struggle for life in that ever-memorable hut 
where he and so many others laid down their lives. 
This has purposely been reduced to a few pages, giv- 
ing the story only so far as Lieutenant Lockwood was 
connected with it. The same, may be said as to the 
home-life at the station on Lady Franklin Bay. 

The portrait of Lieutenant Lockwood is from 
an excellent photograph taken a short time before he 
started for St. John's, and two of the woodcuts are 
from photographs by Sergeant Eice. "Arctic Sledg- 
ing" was made up from a description and a sketch by 
Sergeant Brainard, and "Farthest North" from a 
sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood. 

The map is a reproduction of that published by 



PREFACE. 3 

the London Geographical Society, which is an exact 
transcript of maps drawn by Lieutenant Lockwood 
and submitted by him to Lieutenant Greely with re- 
ports of sledge-journeys. This map gives the names 
agreed upon by Lieutenant Greely and Lieutenant 
Lockwood, and are those referred to in the journal 
and in this book. It is much to be regretted that 
many of these names differ from those on the official 
map published by authority to the world. The names 
first giyen commemorate events connected with those 
wonderful sledge-journeys, as will be seen in the text ; 
and, if a few unimportant lakes and points were named 
after friends and relatives, this might have been con- 
ceded to one who accomplished so much, and that 
much so well. The map of the London Geographical 
Society will probably live, and the other perish, as it 
should. 

Captain Markham, Eoyal Kavy, soon after the re- 
turn of the Greely Expedition, declared, in articles 
published in a leading English magazine, that Lock- 
wood never got beyond Cape Britannia, and that he 
mistook Cape May for that cape, etc. It was thought 
that, when the history of this sledge- journey was bet- 
ter known, Markham would be glad to withdraw this 
ungenerous aspersion. This is done so far as to admit 
that Lockwood did reach 83° 24' north latitude, 44° 5' 
west longitude ; but it is now said, in the article 
"Polar Regions," of the new Encyclopaedia Britannica, 
written by the captain's brother, that all this region 
had previously been explored and exhaustively exam- 
ined by the English expedition of 1875-'76. 



4 PREFACE. 

This is very remarkable, in view of the fact that 
Lockwood Island, which was reached by Lockwood, 
is one hundred geographical miles east and forty miles 
north of Cape Britannia which Beaumont saw at the 
distance of twenty miles, but never reached. 

In the same article are expressed sentiments in ac- 
cord with those contained in this book, viz. : " If the 
simple and necessary precaution had been taken of 
stationing a depot-ship in a good harbor at the en- 
trance of Smith's Sound, in annual communication 
with Greely on one side and with America on the 
other, there would have been no disaster. If precau- 
tions proved to be necessary by experience are taken, 
there is no undue risk or danger in polar enterprises. 
There is no question as to the value and importance 
of polar discovery, and as to the principles on which 
expeditions should be sent out. Their objects are ex- 
ploration for scientific purposes and the encourage- 
ment of maritime enterprise." 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

I. Early Life . 7 

II. Army-Life in Arizona 20 

III. Army-Life est Nebraska 31 

IV. Army-Life in Kansas 43 

Y. Army-Life in Indian Territory and Colorado 52 

VI. Preparing for the Arctic Regions . . .58 

VII. From Newfoundland to Lady Franklin Bay . 64 

VIII. House-building and Local Explorations . . 87 

IX. Preliminary Sledge Expeditions and Life at 

the Station Ill 

X. "The Arctic Moon" 132 

XI. Expedition to Lockwood Island .... 139 

XII. From Lockwood Island to Lady Franklin Bay. 178 

XIII. Waiting and "Watching 194 

XIV. Resuming a Desperate Struggle . . . 229 
XV. Across Gtrinnell Land 249 

XVI. Preparing for Home 279 

XVII. Homeward Bound 286 

XVIII. The Final Catastrophe 296 

XIX. The Woeful Return 317 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Portrait of James B. Lockwood. 

Lockwood, Natives, and Kyack at Disco, Greenland. 

Lockwood's Corner. 

Sledging over the Arctic Floe. 

Taking Observations at Lockwood Island. 

Map showing Lockwood's Explorations. 



FARTHEST NORTH. 



EAELY LIFE. 

In the following pages, it is proposed to record the 
personal history of an American hero whose fortune 
it was, at the sacrifice of his life, to visit and explore 
the utmost limit in the Arctic regions ever attained 
by human skill and enterprise. Aside from the in- 
formation communicated to me by his family, the 
materials placed in my hands consist of his private 
correspondence and various journals which he faith- 
fully kept while serving his country on the Western 
frontiers, as well as in the inhospitable domain of the 
North. As the poet Fitz-G-reene Halleck wrote about 
a kindred character — 

"He lived, as mothers wish their sons to live," 

and, on the score of fidelity to duty, 

" He died, as fathers wish their sons to die," 

leaving a name that will long be honored in every 
civilized land as that of a martyr in the cause of 
geographical exploration. 



8 FAKTHEST NORTH. 

Many of those connected with the Naval Academy 
at Annapolis, Maryland, before the civil war, will re- 
member a playful and mischievous boy, whose ready 
smile and cheerful ways beguiled them in their hours 
of relaxation. Others who were at that school after 
the war will remember the same boy, grown into a 
youth of sixteen years, rugged in aspect, devoted to 
manly sports, and assiduous in all his duties. It is 
the story of his brief but eventful life to which this 
volume is devoted, written for the information of his 
friends and all those who admire true heroism and 
rare abilities when allied to sufferings for the public 
weal. 

James Booth Lockwood was the second son 
and third child of General Henry H. Lockwood and 
Anna Booth Lockwood. He was born at the Naval 
Academy, Annapolis, on the 9th of October, 1852, 
at which time and place his father — a Professor of 
Mathematics in the Navy — instructed the midship- 
men in the military branches, as he had done for 
many years before. Both his parents were from the 
State of Delaware, and came from the best stock of 
that State; and, as his father taught his students 
" how to shoot/' and prepare themselves for the con- 
flicts of life, it was quite natural that the son should 
have acquired a love of noble deeds and adventure. 

Like many boys, he had his narrow escapes from 
death, one of which occurred in April, 1860, when, 
having fallen into the river froni the dock, he was 
rescued in an insensible condition, and restored to 
life with great difficulty. This escape must have been 



EAKLY LIFE. 9 

recalled by him with, special emotion in after-years 
amid his struggles with the ice of Smith's Sound. 

His innate love of fun had been one of his charac- 
teristics from childhood, nor was it subdued even 
when recovering from the accident which nearly cost 
him his life ; for, while lying in his bed, he peered 
into his father's face with a quizzical smile, and re- 
marked, " I was drowned, but not drowned dead." 

When the Naval Academy was occupied by a gen- 
eral of the army, in 1861, and the students and pro- 
fessors were transferred to Newport, Ehode Island, 
young Lockwood accompanied his father and fam- 
ily, and was placed at a public school in that place. 
After a brief residence in Newport, his father, being 
a graduate of the Military Academy at West Point, 
was called upon to command a volunteer regiment 
of Delaware troops, and having been subsequently 
commissioned a brigadier-general of volunteers, he 
was placed in charge of the Eastern Shore counties 
of Virginia and returned to the region of hostilities, 
making his headquarters at Drummondtown, in 
Accomac County. In this quaint and quiet place, 
and while a mere stripling of ten years, young Lock- 
wood displayed his love of adventure and active life 
by forming a company of all the colored boys in the 
village, erecting earthworks in a vacant lot, and, all 
armed with corn-stalks and broom-handles, meeting 
a company of white boys in mimic war — noisy, if not 
dangerous to life or limb. The vanity of personal 
strife, however, soon becoming irksome to his mind, 
he turned his attention to horsemanship, and explored 



10 FAKTHEST NORTH. 

the surrounding shores of Accomac on a Chincoteague 
pony belonging to his father. He also spent many- 
quiet hours conversing about horses and their habits 
with the soldiers in the garrison, with whom he was 
a special favorite. After a while, his father was 
transferred to the command of troops at Harper's 
Ferry, and there a new field of adventure occupied 
the attention of the incipient hero. He was fore- 
most in climbing the neighboring mountain-heights 
and scaling precipices, and always on the lookout 
for adventure along the waters of the Potomac. 
Afterward, when living with his family near the 
city of Baltimore, he displayed his activity and en- 
ergy in other ways. When neighboring boys were 
wont to trespass on his father's grounds and fruit- 
trees, he was quite as ready to defend his home as 
he had been in Accomac to maintain the national 
struggle then rending the land. And here it was that 
he often accompanied his father on his rounds among 
the military works near Baltimore, and always at- 
tracted the attention of the troops by his skill in rid- 
ing. But these experiences were not deemed satisfac- 
tory for molding the character of a boy, and then it 
was that his father sent him to a boarding-school at 
Bethlehem, in Pennsylvania, kept by a Mr. Schwartz, 
a good scholar and strict disciplinarian. Of course, 
like those of all boys, his letters teemed with com- 
plaints. He was very homesick — a mere child sepa- 
rated from all he loved. In one letter he spoke of 
praying to God to make him satisfied. In after-years, 
and when suffering all the horrors of the Arctic, his 



EARLY LIFE. 11 

mother's prayer was that his childhood's star might 
again arise, and lead his sorrowing heart to that com- 
fort found only above. His chief grievances were a 
Dutch dish regularly given to the boys, called scrapul, 
and the discipline of powers administered to those 
who failed in their studies. In this latter punish- 
ment, the delinquent was required to raise to the for- 
tieth, fiftieth, or one hundredth power any number 
given him. However distasteful to him at the time, 
he seems to have changed his mind upon the subjects 
of food and discipline afterward ; for he became, after 
his return home, a strong advocate of scrapul as a 
physical, and of "powers" as a mental diet. Eeturn- 
ing, in 1866, with his father to Annapolis, he was 
sent to St. John's College in that place, and at that 
time in a flourishing condition, under the able admin- 
istration of James C. Welling, now the accomplished 
President of Columbian College. Although his mental 
abilities were acknowledged as superior, he preferred 
action to books, and his success there was not satisfac- 
tory to his father. Others known to be his mental in- 
feriors took a higher stand. He, however, read some 
Latin, and made considerable progress in mathematics. 
Here we come to a new illustration of his character. 
During his residence within the walls of the Academy, 
a species of tyranny existed among the sons of naval 
officers of his own age with whom he associated, which 
he could not endure. Eank in the father was sup- 
posed to give rank or prestige to the son. This theory 
young Lockwood was unwilling to acknowledge, and 
the consequence was that he soon found himself beset 



12 FAKTHEST NORTH. 

by those whom he opposed. But then, as always with 
the free and brave, right prevailed, and the aggressors 
were sent to the wall, while the fearless victor very 
soon became the peer of his associates. The situation 
of the Academy offering peculiar facilities for boating, 
fishing, swimming, etc., the professor's son became 
an expert in all these exercises, making pets of his 
sail and row boats, as he had done with the ponies of 
Chincoteague. Many of the Annapolis students, now 
high officers in the navy, have spoken of his frolic- 
some pranks at that time within the grounds of the 
Academy — for example, how he mimicked the strut 
of the drum-major, how he teased the watchman by 
hiding among the trees and bushes, personating an 
intruder on the grounds, and how he alarmed the ser- 
vant-maids and the children by appearing suddenly 
before them like a phantom. He was more fond of 
reading than of study, and among his favorite books 
were those of De Toe, Mayne Eeid, and others of that 
class. To what extent he was familiar with the his- 
tories of John Ledyard and Joseph K. Bellot can not 
be stated, but there is a striking similarity in their 
characters, and indeed it was the fate of the latter, 
like Lockwood, to lose his life in the Arctic regions. 
They form a trio of remarkable explorers, whose fame 
will be perennial, but it was the fate of the last one 
mentioned to reach the highest success. During the 
latter part of his residence at Annapolis, he spent 
many of his spare hours on his father's farm. By 
way of encouragement, his father assigned to him a 
patch of ground for his special cultivation, with ferti- 



EARLY LIFE. 13 

lizers and the use of a team. To the surprise of all, his 
success seemed amazing, and his crops were good and 
profitable. With the money thus secured he pur- 
chased for himself a watch and a sporting gun. He 
had a special fondness for dogs, and exerted over them 
great influence. His fayorite in this direction was 
a short-legged, long-bodied, common rat-terrier. In 
the purity of this dog's blood, he was a decided believer, 
which faith he maintained with many hot arguments, 
and exemplified by teaching the animal a great variety 
of tricks. Indeed, the high degree of training to 
which he brought the dog Jack was remarkable. He 
was always quiet and positive toward the animal, and 
Jack gave his commands a serious and implicit obedi- 
ence. One of the feats performed by the dog was to 
carry a candlestick with a lighted candle wherever or- 
dered to do so. Another was to this effect : the boy 
would place a small scrap of paper on the parlor wall 
at a height which Jack was hardly able to reach. 
Jack's attention would then be called to the paper, 
and the dog and master would retire up-stairs. Some 
time afterward, Jack, in obedience to a mere word, 
would proceed to the parlor, and, to the amusement 
of those congregated there, launch his body at the 
paper until he finally secured it, and then would carry 
it to his master. Although this dog had a special 
dislike for fire, he would, under orders, pull chestnuts 
out of the hot coals, even if it took him an hour to 
perform the task ; and it is also related of him that 
on one occasion, when he slipped his muzzle on the 
Academy grounds, he picked it up and took it to his 



14 FARTHEST NORTH. 

master. When the lad's father was ordered to the Na- 
tional Observatory, the family removing to Washing- 
ton, the pet dog accompanied them, and the intimacy 
between the dog and his master was unabated. They 
often rambled through the streets together, and it 
was during one of their walks along Pennsylvania 
Avenue that the dog disappeared, and was never re- 
covered by his owner, whose grief was most sincere 
and manifest. He published an advertisement, and, 
true to his regard for the departed, he spoke of it as 
a pure-blooded animal ; which statement was prob- 
ably the reason why the dog was never returned, as 
no stranger could have believed in the alleged pedi- 
gree of such an ungainly creature. 

After young Lockwood's father and family had 
become settled in Washington, it was decided that he 
should return to Annapolis and take charge of the 
farm until some more suitable or congenial employ- 
ment should come into view. In looking over the 
home letters which he wrote at that time, I find a 
few developments of character which are worthy of 
mention. For example, in February, 1872, he writes 
as follows : 

"I find Annapolis the same as ever. It would 
hardly do for Eip Van Winkle to go to sleep here, for, 
when he awoke, he would find no change, not even by 
death." 

After speaking in the same letter of a man going 
to purchase implements in Baltimore, he says: "I 
think it would pay one capable of judging of such 
things, or one endowed with i Lockwood Common 



EARLY LIFE. 15 

Sense,'" this allusion being to an imaginary manual 
■which the children had attributed to their father. 
The quiet humor of the youthful farmer is manifested 
in another letter after this fashion : " I have been suf- 
fering all the week from the effects of a poison most 
probably communicated from some vine. It mani- 
fests itself pretty much as Job's troubles showed 
themselves, and no position of body except standing 
affords relief. I haven't yet got down into the ashes. 
If tartar emetic produced these eruptions, they might 
be attributed in some way to the evil agency of Mrs. 
W ." 

The person here alluded to was the one who be- 
came notorious for the alleged poisoning of General 
W. S. Ketcham, in Baltimore. Young Lockwood had 
met her at a boarding-house in Annapolis after her 
release from prison, and was agreeably impressed by 
her conversation and manners. On a subsequent oc- 
casion, when visiting his family in Washington, and 
some severe remark had been made against the lady 
in question, he demanded that the company present 
should not abuse an absent friend in his presence. 
Being of a sensitive nature in regard to the weather, 
as is proved by several of his Annapolis letters, and by 
such passages as the one now to be quoted, it seems 
surprising that he should ever have decided to visit 
the icy regions of the North. 

" This gloomy weather," he says, " is by no means 
calculated to elate one's spirits, but, on the contrary, 
makes everything appear in its most dreary and deso- 
late light, especially on a farm like this, and, though 



16 FARTHEST NOKTH. 

the spring will bring more work and attention, yet I 
shall hail its appearance with joy. I must confess 
that I can not prevent a feeling of loneliness from 
coming oyer me, particularly in the daytime, for at 
night my lamp and open wood-fire make things more 
cheerful, or rather less dreary." 

As these letters were written from a farm, and 
by a mere boy, they are chiefly devoted to asking for 
advice as to how he should manage affairs, and to 
reporting the condition of the crops ; but, in their 
way, they prove that there was much solid man- 
hood in the lad, and that he looked upon life as 
something substantial, and not as a kind of dream- 
land. 

On one occasion, when visiting his home, he no- 
ticed that one of his sisters was manifesting what 
he thought an unreasonable excitement about the 
advent of cockroaches in the kitchen, whereupon he 
drew the figure of a vessel under full sail, beneath 
which he wrote the following : " The brig Anna 
Baby, bound to the north pole for a load of cock- 
roaches." 

On another occasion, after consulting the family 
copy of Webster's Dictionary, he wrote upon one of 
the fly-leaves, opposite the indorsements of Henry 
Clay, Daniel Webster, and other distinguished men, 
these words : " I regard this dictionary as very good, 
especially when you can not get any other." 

These incidents, though unimportant, help us to 
appreciate the character of the critical and independ- 
ent youth. 



EARLY LIFE. 17 

The following example of the boy's ingenuity is 
also worth mentioning : 

In 1870 a brother-in-law gaye him a small, cheap 
clock, about four and a half inches in diameter, which 
he at once adapted to the purpose of waking himself 
in the morning. After joining the slats of his bed to- 
gether with battens, he sawed them through in the 
middle and hinged the parts. That half of the ar- 
rangement which was at the head of the bed was 
supported only by a single prop. A minute collar of 
lead was supported by one of the hands of the clock. 
At the proper time the lead slipped from the hand 
automatically, and, in failing, set in motion a system 
of levers which were connected with the prop by a 
string. Thus, with unfailing regularity, the prop 
was jerked from its place, and the young occupant of 
the bed was pitched headlong to the floor among his 
pillows and bolster. When he tired of this apparatus, 
it became his custom at night to hitch a string around 
his foot, the end of the string being passed out of 
the window and allowed to trail down to the kitchen- 
door. At a definite time in the morning, previously 
ordered, the colored cook pulled the string until she 
received intimation of a successful result. 

In the hope of finding more congenial employ- 
ment, young Lockwood now fixed his mind on engi- 
neer work in connection with railroads. He joined a 
corps on the Texas and Pacific Eailroad line, and went 
to the northeastern corner of the State of Texas, 
where, for four months, he drove pegs and cut down 
bushes in the virgin wilderness, which employment 



13 FARTHEST NORTH. 

was only terminated by the failure of the company to 
go on with its enterprise. What with the rough peo- 
ple with whom he was compelled to associate, the 
hard fare at the rude taverns, and a severe attack of 
sickness, he had a very disagreeable experience, which 
was enhanced by the non-payment of wages by the 
company, and by the temporary loss of the spare 
money furnished by his father, which was taken from 
him by the rascality of a pretended friend, an em- 
ploye of the railroad company. By careful financial 
engineering, he managed to leave the wilderness of 
Texas, went to Shreveport, and thence to New Or- 
leans, where he took a steamer for Cincinnati, and on 
this trip he met with one small bit of good fortune. 
Owing to his limited means he contracted with the 
captain of the steamer that he should be carried to 
Cincinnati, 0., for a specific sum, all his meals to be 
included in the passage-money. It so happened, how- 
ever, that the steamer was detained by floating ice 
for three weeks, but this caused no detriment to the 
traveler's pocket, as time was not "nominated in 
the bond." About eleven years after that experience, 
the same traveler was fighting his way through the 
ice of the Arctic seas and enduring the horrors of 
Cape Sabine, finding it difficult to secure necessary 
rations at any price or of any quality. 

On reaching home, he began the study of book- 
keeping with a view to the civil service. With others, 
he was examined for a position in the Treasury De- 
partment. He passed the examination with credit, 
and received a mark much above the number required 



EARLY LIFE. 19 

for passing, but, when the office-mark was thrown in, 
as was then the custom, his average was reduced, and 
those who had personal influence and understood the 
" tricks of the trade " became the successful appli- 
cants. 



II. 

ARMY-LIFE IN ARIZONA. 

Aftek finding that farming and railroad engineer- 
ing were not exactly the employments he had fancied 
them to be, young Lockwood resumed his studies 
under the direction of his father. Not long after- 
ward, however, he was seized with the idea of entering 
the army, and, at the very outset of this venture for 
a useful life, he was met with a blending of good and 
bad fortune. Securing the influence of many friends, 
he made a successful appeal to the President and the 
War Department. He received orders for an exami- 
nation before the proper tribunal, and, out of thirty- 
eight young men who were examined in Washington, 
he passed No. 1. He also had a higher mark than 
any of those examined in other places at the same 
time ; hence he was entitled to the highest commis- 
sion as second lieutenant, and at one time it was re- 
solved to give it to him ; but, as the examinations 
were conducted in different places and before different 
boards, it was decided to settle the rank of the ap- 
plicants by lot, and Lockwood's number was forty, 
instead of one to which he was justly entitled. He 
was, however, promised a crack regiment, and hence 
became second lieutenant in the Twenty-third In- 



ARMY-LIFE IN ARIZONA. 21 

fantry, then commanded by two officers who had 
gained distinction in the late war — Colonel Jefferson 
0. Davis and Lientenant-Colonel George Crook. He 
soon after joined the recruiting station at New York 
for instruction. 

The few letters that Lieutenant Lockwood wrote 
home from New York contained yery graphic pictures 
of what he there obseryed. His reception at the re- 
cruiting-station was most cordial, one of the first 
things done there by the recruiting-officers, to his 
surprise, being to bring forth a demijohn of whisky ; 
but from this hospitality he begged to be excused, only 
one or two other young men following his example. 

After a service of several weeks at the recruiting- 
station in New York, he conducted recruits to the 
Territory of Arizona by the way of Panama. The 
party left New York in November, 1873, and, on 
reaching San Francisco, went by steamer to Fort 
Yuma, near the mouth of the Colorado Eiver, and 
thence marched over the rugged and dusty plains of 
Arizona to McDowell Post, a distance of more than 
one hundred and fifty miles in the interior. 

From the few letters that he wrote respecting his 
trip from New York to San Francisco, we gather the 
following items : 

" Aspinwall is a dirty, sandy town, of no architect- 
ural pretensions. I cannot better describe it than 
by asking you to imagine Lockwoodville * with a lot 
of palm- and cocoanut-trees growing in the vacant 
lots, plenty of the sand and filth aforesaid, all the 

* A suburb of Annapolis. 



22 FARTHEST NORTH. 

darkies of Annapolis sauntering around, plenty of 
children and many dogs, pigs, etc. However, I must 
do Aspinwall justice — it has a neat little church, a 
marble monument erected to some of its chief bene- 
factors, and, what I should call, a remarkably fine 
statue of Columbus, in bronze. It has an enormous 
trade passing through it, from one ocean to the other, 
and is really a place of great importance to the mer- 
cantile world." 

" TTe reached Panama between four and five in 
the afternoon, after a very interesting ride across the 
country, and were immediately embarked for the Con- 
stitution — which lay two miles from shore — so that 
I had no opportunity of seeing Panama, except from 
the water. The ship left during the evening, and 
ever since has been ' plowing the angry main' toward 
San Francisco, excepting when stopping at some of 
the towns along the coast. We have seen several of 
these, and they are all of one type, that of Aspinwall, 
though on a much smaller scale. Some that I saw 
had not half a dozen wooden houses, but consisted 
merely of reed-huts covered with straw. One of these 
— Mazatlan — claims to have twenty thousand inhab- 
itants, but does not appear to have more than one 
tenth of that number. All the tropical fruits were 
abundant at these places, and could be purchased for 
a trifle. The Constitution is a side-wheeler of four 
thousand tons, and has little motion, and, while sea- 
sickers are abundant, I am not one of them. I have 
gained ten pounds, and now weigh one hundred and 
sixty-one. " 



ARMY-LIFE IN ARIZONA. 23 

Lockwood's stay in San Francisco was too brief to 
afford him much opportunity for observation, but 
here is what he said of the Chinese : " I visited China- 
town this evening, and saw the Celestials in all their 
glory. I saw many strange and amusing sights in their 
stores and shops and along their streets, as they are 
very slow in adopting civilized customs. I send along 
with this some Chinese pictures which I purchased. 
I am very much pleased with San Francisco, and shall 
leave it with many regrets. A walk through the Chi- 
nese quarter is like a visit to some Chinese city on the 
other side of the Pacific. " 

The few events of his trip along the coast to Yuma 
were to this effect : Soon after leaving the Golden 
Gate, he experienced a storm that was far from pacific 
in its character, far worse than any he had witnessed 
since leaving New York ; he visited Magdalena Bay, 
which impressed him as a barren, miserable place, 
chiefly noted for its want of houses, and yet of some 
importance as the shipping port of a dye-wood found in 
that region ; he also stopped at Carmen Island, where 
large quantities of salt were found in the dry bed of a 
lake, and at Cape St. Lucas, but brought away no 
favorable impressions from any of these remote places. 
With Yuma City he was better pleased, describing 
its houses as small, one-story affairs, built of adobe, 
more Mexican than American in character, and its 
streets as far more dusty than those of Washington 
City ; and the mountains surrounding the city as 
very imposing. The Colorado reminded him of the 
Red River — the channel winding and running be- 



24 FAETHEST NORTH. 

tween great mud-fiats and islands, all constantly 
changing, and abounding in many kinds of water- 
fowl. He was interested in the Indian inhabitants, 
whom he pitied for their poverty and degradation ; 
occasionally seeing a number of squaws reclining like 
quadrupeds on the mud-flats or in front of their tiny 
oval huts. 

The sojourn of Lieutenant Lockwood in Arizona 
lasted into the summer of 1874, and from the letters 
which he wrote home from Post McDowell may be 
gathered some interesting particulars, illustrating his 
habits of close observation in regard to men and 
events. 

His journey from Fort Yuma to Camp McDowell 
was full of interest and was greatly enjoyed. He had 
for companions two brother officers and three ladies ; 
traveled by ambulance, making marches of only about 
fifteen miles ; camped out every night, Lockwood 
himself sleeping on the ground outside. As the coun- 
try was very desolate and barren, they traveled gen- 
erally along the valley of the Gila, but their last 
march was over desert land forty-five miles wide. 
They saw many relics along the route, mounds, ruins, 
and immense ditches for irrigation. One immense 
pile of rocks, called the Painted Rocks, was entirely 
covered with pictures of lizards, Indians, beasts, and 
birds — supposed to represent a great battle in which 
the Apaches conquered the Maricopas. There were 
also along the road graves of men murdered by the 
Indians. One grave, near Gila Bend, was of a man 
named Lumley, a station -keeper, murdered by two 



ARMY-LIFE IN ARIZONA. 25 

Mexicans — his successor exhibited a knife, used by- 
one of the murderers, which had been found, and he 
pointed out the spot where Judge Lynch had disposed 
of the only criminal that happened to be captured. 
While the travelers did not spend any money at hotels, 
they were obliged to pay from twenty to thirty dollars 
for being ferried across the Gila and Salt Kivers at 
different points. 

In one of his letters, written to his sister after 
the rainy season, and soon after his arrival at Camp 
McDowell, young Lockwood says : "I wish you could 
see the pretty flowers around here ; they are prin- 
cipally yellow and red, and each kind grows by itself. 
They grow so close together that the ground is cov- 
ered as with a carpet, To the west of this post there 
is a wide plain covered with these flowers. There is 
also a species of cactus called the Suwarrow, which 
grows fifteen or twenty feet high — a sort of tree with- 
out branches, but covered with thorns ; the outside 
of this tree is of a green color and nearly as soft as 
young asparagus, but inside it has a frame of wood. 
These are all over the plain, in fact all over Arizona. 
I often walk out here after dinner with a large dog 
that belongs to one of the officers, and start up the 
rabbits — great big Jack-rabbits, as they are called — 
as large as a small dog. They can run very fast, 
faster than any dog except a hound. Among other 
curiosities about here are rattlesnakes and lizards — 
the lizards as common as flies ; also crows as big as 
hens and almost as tame. The post is entirely sur- 
rounded by mountains." By way of contrast to this 



26 FARTHEST NORTH. 

pleasing prospect, in another letter he gives the par- 
ticulars of the murder of two men by the Indians 
within twelve miles of the garrison, their bodies hav- 
ing been fearfully mutilated. "I am still in the 
land of the finite and material," he writes, " and the 
Apaches have not yet disturbed the arrangement of 
my back hair ; in short, I am alive and kicking." 

On the 14th of May, Lock wood writes that " there 
has been nothing new at the post except the arrival of 
Lieutenant Schuyler, Fifth Cavalry. He has been 
out on a scout for several months past, dropping in at 
various posts now and then. He reports that he came 
upon the Apaches southeast of here, killed twelve and 
took fourteen prisoners. He is accompanied by Dr. 
Corbasier and a party of thirty-one soldiers and 
eighty-one Indian scouts. These scouts are composed 
of Apache-Mojave, Tonto-Apaches, and other tribes, 
closely allied to the Apaches proper. It seems strange 
that they are thus willing to join the enemy in ex- 
terminating their brethren ; but such is their na- 
ture. They are hardly superior to the beasts, except 
in shape, and even there the line of demarkation is 
not very distinct. The Pimos, to the number of one 
hundred or more, were here about a week ago, on 
their way to punish the Apaches for stealing some 
stock from them. When they returned, they reported 
the killing of quite a number of their foes — some six- 
teen or more — and taking many prisoners. Schuy- 
ler's party confirm the report ; they came across the 
camp of the Apaches, and the doctor said he counted 
a large number of slain. The Pimos surprised the 



ARMY-LIFE IN ARIZONA. 27 

Apaches when asleep and almost exterminated them. 
They were armed with war-clubs, and of course man- 
gled their bodies horribly. When found their heads 
were all beaten in, and their bodies stuck full of ar- 
rows and partially burned. The doctor says it was 
the most sickening sight he ever beheld. The Apache 
bands, off their reservations, are fast becoming ex- 
terminated, over a thousand having been killed dur- 
ing the last winter. General Crook will not allow 
them to return to their reservations unless they bring 
the heads of several of the ringleaders in the late 
outbreak." 

In another place, after alluding to the extravagant 
accounts published about Arizona, he says : " One 
would suppose, from reading the pamphlet I send 
you, that Arizona is a fine agricultural country — which 
is absurd ; and that it contains many flourishing 
cities and towns, whereas even the river-bottoms re- 
quire irrigation, and the ( cities ' are merely the nuclei 
of towns." 

On one occasion, after alluding to his enjoyment 
of the newspapers sent him from home, and to the 
early transfer of his regiment, he says: "It would 
probably have been removed this spring but for the 
financial panic and other commercial disasters. I 
suppose if the rest of the year goes by prosperously, 
and nothing occurs to prolong the gingerly, penny- 
wise, pound-foolish policy of Congress called econo- 
my (?), that the Twenty-third will probably be re- 
moved next spring or fall." And again, he continues : 
"Grant appears to have obtained great credit by his 



28 FARTHEST NORTH. 

veto of the Inflation Bill. How Congress could pass 
a bill which seems to be unacceptable and repugnant 
to the whole people, I can not understand." 

Alluding a second time to the pleasing character- 
istics of frontier life, he tells his father that "a 
party of Indian scouts arrived here yesterday from 
Schuyler's command. They brought the news that 
the lieutenant had jumped the Indians at Four Peaks — 
a high mountain, forty miles off — killed eighteen and 
captured six. The party brought in a wounded scout, 
shot through the head, who is now in the hospital. 
He was the only one wounded in the fight, or rather 
slaughter, for these Indians rarely fight a party of any 
size. I suppose these Arizona tribes are the most de- 
graded, cowardly, and despicable savages in the coun- 
try. Schuyler, as I understand, generally sweeps a 
breadth of country fifty miles across, by means of 
flanking-parties on the right and left, and has been 
quite successful." 

In speaking of his duties at the post, he says : "I 
am officer-of-the-day every other day ; I mount the 
guard every morning, attend all roll-calls, accompany 
the captain in his inspection of quarters every morn- 
ing, and afterward recite tactics. I also am present 
with him at company-drill every evening, command 
the company at Sunday morning inspection, sit on 
boards of survey and perform other irregular duties." 

After announcing the arrival of the paymaster at 
the post, and alluding to expenses, he says: " Servants 
in this country are paid enormously. The post-trader 
pays his Chinese cook thirty dollars per month, and 



ARMY-LIFE IN ARIZONA. 29 

has paid as high as one hundred dollars. Officers in 
Arizona are compelled from necessity to employ sol- 
diers in this capacity, though contrary to the regula- 
tions." 

In one of his letters, Lieutenant Lockwood gives 
his opinion about some of his father's landed property, 
and then goes on after this fashion : "The old farm 
has additional charms for me now, after living in Ari- 
zona, and I have come to think that there are many 
worse places. Does distance lend enchantment to the 
view ? or what is it ? I often long after some of the 
delicious peaches and other fruit that the much-abused 
farm produces in such abundance. However, if you 
can dispose of the farm as you suggest, it will, no 
doubt, be for the best, as the Lock wood family have 
become so high-toned that I am afraid they will never 
sloop (?) to live on a farm and become grangers." 

In one of his letters written about this date, he 
makes the following remark respecting his education 
at Annapolis : "I don't think I care about being 
present at the meeting of the alumni of my Alma 
Mater, or, what she would be more pleased with, con- 
tributing anything in the way of money. Enough has 
been thrown away in teaching me what has never been 
of any use. However, the old woman has my good 
wishes." 

In another letter, after speaking of an entertain- 
ment he had attended, he said : "I don't know that 
I should have enjoyed it, but for the presence of a very 
pretty Spanish girl with whom I fell in love ; she 
danced charmingly, but as she could not speak a word 



30 FARTHEST NORTH. 

of English, nor I a word of Spanish, our conversation 
was somewhat limited." 

On the 4th of July when arrangements were com- 
menced for removing the Twenty-third Eegiment to 
Yuma, the lieutenant thus touches upon the national 
anniversary : "1 have celebrated the day by being 
very busy writing up the proceedings of a board of sur- 
vey, and have a like job on my hands for to-morrow ; 
indeed, I shall be fully employed now till we leave. 
Some of the men, however, have been otherwise em- 
ployed, viz., in parading before the guard-house with 
logs of wood on their backs, as the reward of a 
drunken frolic. Our march to Fort Yuma will 
doubtless be very disagreeable, and for two weeks 
we shall have dust and heat together with the fatigue 
of travel ; but, on the other hand, the daily march 
will not be more than fifteen miles, and as we shall 
be well provided, I can't say that I look forward 
to it with much dread. The wife of our captain is 
even now interesting herself in the culinary arrange- 
ments, so I presume the vitals will be good." Prom 
the time of his uttering this amusing pun until the 
following September, the letters of young Lockwood 
give us no incidents of special interest, and we now 
follow him into the State of Nebraska, his regiment 
having been assigned to the favorite post of Omaha. 



III. 

ARMY-LIFE IN NEBRASKA. 

Haying entered upon duty at the barracks of 
Omaha, he seems to have made himself especially use- 
ful there, while enjoying some of the comforts of civ- 
ilization, including good society. On the 25 th of 
September, he wrote that he had been busy for a week 
as the recorder of a court-martial. " We settled nine 
cases, and, while we now stand adjourned sine die, I 
suppose the court will soon be reconvened to try half 
a dozen more men against whom charges have been 
preferred. There have been, since my arrival here, as 
many as sixty men in the guard-house, and courts-mar- 
tial are the order of the day. I have to attend drills, 
etc., every day, and hence my leisure and opportunities 
for visiting the town have been limited. However, I 
did go last night to a concert in town given for the 
benefit of the grasshopper sufferers, several of these 
sufferers from the country being present. You can 
not realize what a nuisance these insects are in this 
country. I have not yet seen them in any numbers, 
or the effects of their ravages, but I am told they 
sometimes actually stop the railway-trains. The in- 
credible number of bed-bugs in this country is another 
curious fact. I sleep so soundly that they do not dis- 



32 FARTHEST NORTH. 

turb me. They infest every house at the post, and 
they are also numerous in the city, the fences between 
here and there being painted in many places, * Go to 
Smith's for the great bed-bug buster.' " He became 
a favorite in the refined society of Omaha, at that 
time on the confines of civilization, but appearing to 
him like a bit of New York city cut off and set down 
in the wilderness, where, only a few years before, the 
buffalo ranged in his native freedom. During his 
residence at Omaha, young Lockwood was on the 
most friendly terms with all his fellow-officers, with 
one exception. After giving his father a very manly 
account of that trouble, he writes a paragraph about 
himself in these words : "With regard to myself, I 
find this army-life about what I expected. It has its 
pleasures and its crosses. I should prefer the cavalry 
to the infantry, and am sorry I did not apply for that 
arm of the service. I should like to remain in the 
army two or three years longer, I think, and yet, 
with a good opening, might do better in civil life. 
Promotion is very slow, and the accumulation of any- 
thing is not easy. These, of course, are rude impres- 
sions and but half formed, but, as you ask for impres- 
sions, I feel bound to give them just as they are. I 
have not been in the army long enough to rise, nor 
have I had the opportunity to gain any particular 
reputation, but suppose mine is as good as the average 
— that is, I think I have displayed as much aptitude 
for my profession as is generally exhibited by men of 
average ability, for of such I regard myself — perhaps 
below the average. I hope this peroration will answer 



ARMY-LIFE IN NEBRASKA.. 33 

your inquiries, and prove satisfactory in that respect. 
Excuse the necessary egotism. I will thankfully re- 
ceive any advice or corrections which the reading of 
this, or your acquaintance with, my characteristics, 
may suggest. I feel as though I had written a lot of 
foolishness ; if you think so, please excuse." 

To the writer of this personal history, it seems as 
if such sentiments as the above could come only from 
a young man endowed with, the highest instincts of 
ambition, honor, and true manhood, and can not but 
be considered, with others of like character, as a suit- 
able passport into the land of Odin and the glories of 
Valhalla. 

During his stay at Omaha, Lieutenant Loekwood 
was detailed by General Ord, the commanding officer, 
to visit those counties of Nebraska where grasshoppers 
had destroyed the crops, for the purpose of determin- 
ing to whom contributions which had been sent to 
the general should be given. In this journey of sev- 
eral hundred miles, made in the coldest weather, he 
visited the several county towns, met the citizens, 
and afterward laid before the general such testimony 
as to the destitute, that the bounty was distributed to 
the satisfaction of all. While on this duty, he traveled 
ninety miles in twenty-four hours. The county people 
with whom he conducted business, he designated as 
" Grasshoppers." He greatly enjoyed the prairie 
scenery through which he passed, especially the valley 
of the Blue. 

On the approach of Christmas at Omaha, our 
young friend had an. attack of chills and fever, which 



34: FARTHEST NORTH. 

sent him to his bed. After deploring that he could 
not perform his duties on the pending court-martial, 
he gives us this holiday information : " Yesterday 
was Christmas, and I am glad that the day comes 
but once a year. With a large party I was occupied 
until late in the afternoon making the rounds of the 
many houses here at the post. In the evening, I ate 
a fine dinner at General Ord's, and on top of that, 
danced in the parlor until eleven or twelve o'clock, 
and, as a consequence, am coming on as officer of the 
guard to-day with a most gorgeous headache. So much 
for Christmas. I have received two or three presents, 
but have made none myself, from want of funds. I 
just now heard a tremendous crash, and, on going 
out, found a fine lunch, sent by Mrs. Ord, scattered 
on the ground, and in the midst of the debris of 
broken glass and china, the unfortunate bearer, who 
had slipped and fallen on the ice in front of the door. 
I was not particularly sorry on my own account, as I 
could not have eaten the good things ' anyhow.' 
Upon the whole, Christmas has passed away as it 
usually does, pleasantly, though at the expense of 
many unfortunate turkeys. I am sorry I could not 
send home any presents, my pecuniary affairs being 
in a straitened condition. I should like very much to 
be at home about this time. I often wish I could hear 
Lidie and Anna sing, although I suppose I would find 
the girls, including Julia and Mary, much changed." 
Remembering young Lockwood's remarks about 
whisky-drinking in New York, the following state- 
ment is worth quoting : " Most of the ladies at the 



ARMY-LIFE IN NEBRASKA. 35 

post received visitors on JSTew-Year's-day, either sin- 
gly or in groups. One marked feature of the day was 
the general absence of liquor, its place being supplied 
by coffee, chocolate, and other refreshments of a more 
solid and less stimulating character. I noticed the 
same thing in town, or rather that at those places 
where I saw liquor, the ladies were less urgent than is 
usually the case in pressing it upon the gentlemen. 
However, there is less drinking at this post than at 
any other I have seen, as large as it is. Although, 
with few exceptions, all drink here, it is done quietly 
at home and without excess. " 

As our young friend had narrowly escaped with 
his life from drowning at Annapolis, so did he from 
the pranks of an unruly horse at the Omaha Bar- 
racks. He was about mounting the horse for a ride, 
when the animal started on the run before he could 
get into the saddle, when he was thrown forward 
upon his head. The trouble was owing to a defect in 
the bridle. In accounting for his escape, he remarked 
that his thick head was what saved his life. True to 
his native pluck, he tackled the same horse a number 
of times afterward, until the animal — a special favor- 
ite — was subdued. 

In the month of June, 1875, it would seem as if 
something like homesickness was weighing down his 
spirits, for he then began to write about employment 
in civil life. Not that he disliked the army, but he 
longed for some business that would enable him to 
make a little money. He thought he could supply a 
sufficient amount of energy to prosecute a commercial 



36 FAETIIEST NORTH. 

venture. He felt that there was a great difference 
between the roads that lead to wealth and to military 
glory. If his father should chance to see an opening 
that might give him a fortune in a few days at the 
expense of a few hundred dollars or some hard work, 
he wanted to be promptly notified. He broached 
these business ideas at that time merely for the sake 
of haying a subject for discussion when permitted to 
visit his home. 

The life at the Omaha garrison, during the sum- 
mer of 1875, was comfortable but monotonous. The 
faithfulness with which the young officer correspond- 
ed with his parents is eminently characteristic of a 
dutiful son. "When not writing about his surround- 
ings and daily duties, or sketching the character of 
his associates, he ventured to discuss business matters 
with his father, frequently volunteering a bit of ad- 
vice. He often alluded to the Annapolis farm and 
to people and events connected with Georgetown, 
now a part of Washington City, where he expected 
the family to remain permanently. On every sub- 
ject discussed, he manifested a clear head, and en- 
livened his more serious talk with an occasional joke, 
for which he seemed to have a fondness. In express- 
ing his opinions on men and things, it seemed impos- 
sible for him to hesitate or equivocate ; he always 
went directly to the point, and, though charitable, 
he could not refrain from looking out for the de- 
mands of justice, as, for example, when alluding to 
the death of a man who had been untrue to himself 
and friends, he said " to die was about the best thing 



AEMY-LIFE IN NEBRASKA. 37 

he could do." As to his jokes, they were not con- 
fined to his private letters, as will be shown by one 
of them practiced upon the post trader during a dull 
period in the garrison. The trader in question, a 
young fellow, had removed the balls from the pistol 
of one of his clerks, with the intention of playing a 
ghostly trick upon him that night. He told Lockwood 
and another friend of his intention, and they deter- 
mined to turn the tables upon the trader. They noti- 
fied the clerk, and at midnight the amateur ghost rose 
from his bed, enveloped himself in a white sheet, and 
stole softly into the room of the unsuspecting clerk. 
Just then an improvised noise was made outside the 
door, when the clerk seemingly awoke with an excla- 
mation of terror at seeing the ghost. The report of 
the pistol was duly followed by the return of the ball 
held in hand, a la ghost, but immediately after, the 
poor ghost found himself completely drenched with a 
bucket of water, which had been coolly set aside for 
that purpose. At this unexpected turn of affairs, the 
trader fled in the greatest consternation, leaving his 
"trade-mark" behind, and, as he passed out of the 
door, received a second pail of water from one of his 
ghostly companions. The result was that it took a 
long time for him to dry his saturated skin, and a 
much longer for his title of Mr. Ghost to be lost by 
the garrison boys. ISTot long after the above incident, 
this personage found that there was not " the ghost of 
a chance " of his continuing in business, as he became 
insolvent and had to retire. It would appear that 
while many of these military merchants on the front- 



38 FARTHEST NORTH. 

iers have a chance to make fortunes, those who are 
located near a city like Omaha find it difficult to make 
both ends meet in their business affairs. 

On reading the proceedings of Congress during 
the winter of 1875, he writes to his father as follows : 
" Congress seems to be looking around for some scape- 
goat on which to pile the odium of the millions legis- 
lated away, and, as usual, pitches on the army. It 
seems to be the opinion here, however, that no reduc- 
tion will take place this winter. If Congressmen con- 
sulted occasionally others than the staff-officers living 
in Washington with regard to military affairs, they 
might find out the true whereabout of the tremendous 
rat-hole which swallows up annually the sum of thirty- 
four millions of dollars. It does not go to support 
the army proper, but to support that enormous, over- 
grown, expensive adjunct of the army, the staff, 
which, created merely for the administration of the 
army, now masters that which it was intended to sub- 
serve, and has become superior to it in rank and influ- 
ence, and in everything that rank and influence can 
bring. But Congress seems to be blind to the fact 
that expenditures are credited to the army, under the 
army appropriation bill, which have no legitimate 
connection with it, and which would still be required 
if no army existed. Why is it that the army is the 
perpetual foot-ball of these demagogues ? Is it thus, 
at every session, to be bantered about by those who 
do not understand the requirements of the country 
in this respect ? Is not the causing of this period- 
ical uncertainty respecting his fate the most perni- 



ARMY-LITE IN NEBRASKA. 39 

eious thing that Congress can do to an officer ? 
consistency, thou art a jewel ! How is it that the 
nayy and other branches of the public service are not 
subject to this constant tinkering ? But I am not in 
Congress, and had better subside." The assertions 
here made can not be controverted, and, coming from 
a young man who had but recently passed his major- 
ity, prove him to be the possessor of very substantial 
abilities. He also expressed decided opinions in regard 
to various noted officials charged with improper con- 
duct in Washington at the time alluded to, all of 
which have been sustained by subsequent develop- 
ments. 

Eemembering what he said about the drinking 
customs of Omaha, on New-Year's-day, 1875, it is 
pleasant to have him record the fact, on the 2d of 
January, 1876, that "the most noticeable feature 
during the previous day, in society, was the entire 
absence, at most houses, of any intoxicating liquors, 
and that he did not see a case of drunkenness during 
the entire day — a thing very rare even in the cities of 
the East." On a subsequent occasion, he mentions 
the fact that, when one of his sergeants had been 
drinking to excess, he put him in arrest, but released 
him the next day, after warning him of the conse- 
quences of a repetition of the offense, and "preaching 
him a sermon on the evils of intoxication, moral, men- 
tal, and physical." On one occasion, when his father 
had asked how he spent his leisure time in the bar- 
racks, he replied that he read, so as to combine pleas- 
ure with profit, played on his flute, and studied the 



40 FARTHEST NORTH. 

art of short-hand, which had long been a hobby with 
him, and was to be in the future an important accom- 
plishment. In an effort to read Draper's ( ' Intellect- 
ual Development of Europe," he could only manage 
about one half of the work, and to counteract its 
dullness resorted to a novel, " The "Wandering Jew." 
As he was frequently called upon to act as recorder of 
the military court, he found his knowledge of stenog- 
raphy very useful and very much of a relaxation, and, 
on receiving a letter from one of his sisters which was 
good but not very plainly written, he said that he had 
been able to make it out by means of his skill in short- 
hand writing. As to his studies, he had formed a 
regular plan for prosecuting them, but was constantly 
interrupted by extra official duties. Among other 
things, he devoted himself to the German language, 
and subsequently to French, and attained consider- 
able proficiency. An idea of his habits of industry 
may be gathered from what he wrote to his father, 
when the General was placed on the retired list of the 
navy : "So you are retired this month. You ought 
to open an office, or do something to occupy your 
mind. Every one needs something in the way of 
business or duty. You will soon get tired of reading 
continuously." On the approach of spring, and with 
the expectation of obtaining a leave of absence during 
the coming summer, he resumed a discussion with 
his father about leaving the army for civil employ- 
ment. He had entered it well posted in regard to 
its disadvantages, and chiefly for the sake of hav- 
ing something to do. He had now become more 






ARMY-LIFE IN NEBRASKA. 4-1 

deeply impressed than before that promotion was so 
slow, that his prospects of increased rank and pay 
offered no inducements to any young man of energy 
and industry, qualities which he certainly possessed. 
He was not then ready for decisive action, but he was 
determined to support himself, and would, therefore, 
be on the lookout for advantageous prospects in some 
other line of employment. In one of his letters, after 
commenting upon the school which two of his sisters 
were attending, he gives us this bit of experience : 
" I am a school-teacher myself ; my pupils, the non- 
commissioned officers of the company. They waste 
the midnight oil, however, only in toning the tactics. 
I go down and dilate and expatiate very profoundly 
on the reasons and logic of this and that. This is 
a pleasant school to have ; the authority and influ- 
ence of the officer have their full weight in the or- 
dinary school-room as elsewhere in the army." In 
May, 1876, after giving an account of a proposed 
demonstration, under General Crook, against the 
Indians on the Yellowstone, he thus relieves his 
mind: "Would that I belonged to the cavalry! I 
like motion, action, and variety. To be sure, I 
would rather be here (in Omaha) than where the 
other companies are, but still would rather be in the 
field than here." In June, 1876, the monotony of 
his life was relieved by an order to take some con- 
victs to the State prison near Fort Leavenworth, 
which he described as the largest post in the country, 
containing the post proper, the department head- 
quarters, and the military prison. The State prison 



42 FARTHEST NORTH. 

is about six miles from the town. ce Here/' he writes, 
"are sent all the enlisted men who are dishonorably 
discharged, conyicted of theft, or other not purely 
military offenses. The inclosure is an immense yard, 
surrounded by a high stone wall — the building, which 
is on one side, haying an appearance somewhat like 
the Smithsonian Institution. In the inclosure are 
various other buildings, each one used as a workshop 
for some trade, almost all the common trades being 
represented. The prisoners, numbering about five 
hundred, are together in the daytime, but not at 
night, and are not allowed to talk with each other. 
It was from this prison that the best features of the 
new military prison were obtained, the board of offi- 
cers on the management of the prison at Fort Leaven- 
worth having decided it to be the best one to imitate." 
In the autumn of 1876, when he was granted a 
leave of absence to visit his parents, they found him 
in personal appearance wonderfully improved and de- 
veloped, the boy of 1873 having become a handsome 
and accomplished gentleman. He was not slow, as 
may be supposed, in making his way to Philadelphia 
to visit the Centennial Exposition, which he greatly 
enjoyed. 



IV. 

AKMY-LIFE IN KANSAS. 

Dueing Lieutenant Lockwood's absence on leave, 
his regiment was transferred to Fort Leavenworth, 
and there we find him early in 1877, and for about 
two years thereafter. Of course, the garrison life of 
an officer, in times of peace, is somewhat monotonous ; 
but the letters which the lieutenant wrote from this 
station contain some passages which are interesting 
and illustrate his character, as will be seen in the fol- 
lowing pages. Here it should be stated that, during 
his sojourn at Fort Leavenworth, he made many 
pleasant acquaintances, which ripened into friend- 
ship ; among them being the widow of an officer, 
with whom he boarded for some time, and whose 
friendship he particularly valued. 

At a time when there was quite a rage at the gar- 
rison for private theatricals, one of the superior offi- 
cers took the liberty, without previous consultation, 
of putting Lockwood on the list of performers, where- 
upon he declined the honor, as he thought Nature 
never intended him for a star. In speaking of a little 
difficulty between two of his friends, he manifests his 
love of fun by stating that one of them had denied the 
allegation and defied the alligator. When comment- 



44 FARTHEST NORTH. 

ing upon some disagreeable March weather, he said, 
" I don't think the ground-hog has seen his shadow, 
and hence the latter part of the month ought to be 
pleasant." After a remark on the proficiency he was 
makiug in the study of French, he quietly continues, 
"There are many here who speak it 'a VAmericaine, i 
as if they thought that ' the chief end of man.'" 

As if never satisfied with his acquirements, he 
writes in one of his letters as follows : " My latest 
hobby is telegraphing. The signal officer of the de- 
partment has loaned me a small battery and an instru- 
ment. We have put up the wires and are progressing 
well. Telegraphy, like phonography, is easy to trans- 
mit after some little practice ; but it is difficult to 
recognize the sounds as they come over the wire, and 
it requires as much practice as it does to recognize the 
phonographic characters. I have the instrument on 
the table before me, and can not fail to gain some pro- 
ficiency at any rate." 

In July, 1877, when the strikers and rioters were 
making trouble in St. Louis, Mo., Lieutenant Lock- 
wood's company and five others were ordered to that 
city on duty. After their arrival, they waited in daily 
expectation of mowing down the mob, but there was 
little fighting, as the police and militia were found 
to be amply sufficient to subdue all disturbance. He 
was greatly pleased with the city and military quarters 
of St. Louis, and felt that he would like to remain 
there on permanent duty. The feature which pleased 
him more than any other at St. Louis was a private 
garden of about fifty acres, exquisitely planned, and 



ARMY-LIFE IN KANSAS. 45 

containing the rarest and most beautiful flowers and 
trees. The floral display, there, he thought superior 
to that at the Centennial Exposition. The owner, a 
bachelor named Shaw, nearly eighty years of age, and 
a man of enormous wealth, paid out yearly in ex- 
penses twenty-five thousand dollars. At the garden 
residence of this millionaire, young Lockwood and a 
friend were hospitably entertained — a wonderful con- 
trast to the accommodations at a beer-saloon, near the 
arsenal gate, where the army officers were obliged to 
take their meals while in the city. Altogether the 
trip was pleasant, but too expensive for men with 
limited means. On their return to Fort Leaven- 
worth from the Eden-like garden of St. Louis, they 
were informed of Indian troubles in Montana, and 
startled by a rumor that they must soon be off upon 
a hunt for Indians — illustrating the vicissitudes of 
army-life. 

It was about this time that a specimen of Ameri- 
can royalty visited Fort Leavenworth with his daugh- 
ter, to whom young Lockwood had an opportunity of 
being polite. This was a great cattle-man from Texas, 
who was said to have fenced in a grazing-farm of a 
million of acres, and who numbered his cattle by tens 
of thousands. His name was King, and his title in 
all the West was the " Cattle King of Texas." The 
father and daughter were much interested in an 
inspection of the fort, where they were hospitably 
entertained. From that time onward for several 
months, the dullness of garrison-life was only relieved 
by parties, dinners, and theatrical amusements in the 



46 FARTHEST NORTH. 

city, by the presence of an encampment of Indians 
near the post, and by attendance at a grand recep- 
tion and ball given at Kansas City by the Governor 
of the State. The letters written by young Lock- 
wood during all this period are elaborate and full of 
interest to his parents, but not enlivened with any 
incidents of public interest. The garrison courts 
seem to have demanded very much of his attention, 
because of his skill in taking down testimony by short- 
hand, and he was frequently compelled to devote 
many of his sleeping hours to the duty of writing out 
his notes. 

While going from the fort into town one day, he 
witnessed what he called an awful spectacle — three 
little boys in a state of intoxication. This recalled 
the fate of one of his former companions in the East, 
who had become a drunkard, and in a letter to his 
father he recorded the following : " Liquor is cer- 
tainly a terrible curse ; one constantly sees illustra- 
tions of this in the army. You rather startled me in a 
recent letter by telling me you had taken the pledge. 
Had you departed from your abstemious habits in 
this respect ? was my first thought, but I was at once 
relieved by seeing that your allusion was to something 
else. A rule that I have had for a long time and 
seldom depart from, is not to drink before sunset and 
never to do so in a saloon. It is rather superfluous 
in me to have any such rules, as it is very seldom that 
I have a desire to touch spirituous drinks, and then I 
partake only for the sake of not appearing to be rude 
in social matters." 



ARMY-LIFE Itf KANSAS. 47 

On one occasion, after describing a splendid din- 
ner which he had attended, he branches off npon his 
own experiences in that line, stating that he had been 
caterer for the " Bachelors' Clnb" during the current 
month, and playing housekeeper for the first time in 
his life. He was striving to feed the mess well and 
to reduce expenses, the individual assessments amount- 
ing to twenty-four dollars. 

"We have a good deal of fun," he says, " at the 
mess ; among other ways, by a resolution of the offi- 
cers that I shall keep a record of the puns, jokes, 
profane expressions, etc. Any one indulging in these 
is put back or set forward on a regular motion and 
vote by the members, and any one getting a record of 
fifteen has to send to the store for a supply of cigars. 
One of the mess, having the bad habit of saying, ' 
Lord ! ' and ( Damn it ! ' when excited, gets a great 
many bad marks, and is made unhappy. The stand- 
ard of wit being very high, one seldom ' goes ahead. ' " 

In May, 1878, when it was doubtful what Congress 
would do about reducing the army, and Lieutenant 
Lockwood thought that he might decide to leave the 
service, he discussed with his father the question of 
future employment. He thought favorably of a po- 
sition in some telegraph company, thereby proving 
that, in all his studies and leisurely occupations, he 
was practical, and no visionary. Another idea that 
he had was that he might play Cincinnatus, and again 
go upon the farm. He also thought of a position in 
connection with the Signal Service as one that would 

suit him should he, from any cause, be compelled to 
3 



48 FARTHEST NORTH. 

leave the army ; and this suggestion, taken in connec- 
tion with his subsequent career, is notable. He went 
so far, indeed, as to ask his father about the practi- 
cability of securing such a position in that corps, and 
desired especially to know all about the necessary 
qualifications. 

On one occasion, after alluding to the possibility 
of his being transferred for duty to some other place, 
he says that it might be a good thing for him, as he 
could not remain at Leavenworth always, and yet he 
dreaded to be sent to some "far-distant and isolated 
post." When he wrote those words, how little did 
he imagine that he would eventually close his earthly 
career in a land of supreme desolation within the Arc- 
tic Circle ! 

Subsequently — July, 1878 — he resumed with spe- 
cial earnestness the consideration of being detailed for 
duty in the Signal Service, and, with his father's ap- 
probation, made the proper application. He thought 
the proposed transfer would be of benefit to him in 
many ways, and if he failed to make it so, he would 
very quickly be ordered back to his regiment. 

In September he was ordered to St. Louis for the 
purpose of conducting some recruits westward, and 
for a short time it was uncertain whether he would 
have to go to Texas or the Territory of Wyoming, 
whereby were shown the uncertainties which attend 
life in the army. He took the recruits to Fort Lara- 
mie, and, on his way, was in danger of being embroiled 
with the Cheyenne Indians under Sitting Bull, but 
returned in safety, by way of his old camp at Omaha, 



ARMY-LIFE IN KANSAS. 49 

to his company at Fort Leavenworth. During another 
trip, which he soon after took with his company, he 
saw in western Kansas many Eussian immigrants. 
They were poor, and had settled at great distances 
along the streams to be near water, not always 
easily found in these regions. They knew nothing 
of the recent outbreak of the Indians, and, in- 
deed, many of them had never seen an Indian. The 
lieutenant also stumbled upon a colony of Swedes, 
and at one place saw three women, whose husbands 
had been killed by the Indians, and who were weeping 
bitterly in their distress. While his company was on 
the march he generally kept at the head of the column, 
thereby receiving the title of Pedestrian of the Com- 
mand. Much of the country over which they trav- 
eled was monotonous in the extreme — wide stretches 
of prairie reaching to the far horizon. Antelopes and 
Jack-rabbits were frequently seen, and sometimes were 
fired at without success. But, to his mind, the most 
wonderful features about the country were the count- 
less tracks and bones of the buffalo, while not a living 
animal was seen. One of his guides informed him 
that in former times he had killed three hundred in 
a single day, so that it was no wonder that they were 
now extinct. 

In a letter to one of his sisters, in October, he 
speaks of his return from this chase after Cheyenne 
Indians, and then goes on to mention some amusing 
incidents that had occurred at the post, and gives her 
this bit of artistic advice : " I hope you will profit by 
your talent for painting, not lury it in the ground, 



50 FARTHEST NORTH. 

like the foolish steward. Painting is a great and yery 
popular accomplishment ; there is none perhaps more 
so." No matter what happened in or about the gar- 
rison, he seemed always ready with his common-sense 
opinions referring to passing events. For example, 
after alluding to the burning of a stable, with thir- 
teen mules, when some of them that had been released 
ran into the fire from fright, he thus proceeds : " I 
was talking ' over the wire ' with one of the men on 
our telegraph line, and what he said is no doubt true, 
and shows the short-sightedness of the Government. 
He said that he and many of the other soldiers had 
damaged or lost their clothes, and that if soldiers 
were reimbursed for their losses on such occasions, 
they would work with much more vim and energy, 
and that he heard one man say that he would not lose 
his new pantaloons for all the mules in the stable. Of 
course, in the case of a private house on fire, I believe 
the enlisted men would risk everything ; but in cases 
of this kind, where Government property only is con- 
cerned, this feeling has its existence. There is, too, 
some reason for this feeling; for, no matter how hard 
a soldier or officer may work at a fire to save public 
property, the Government will not reward him even 
by the restitution of his clothes. Nothing short of 
an act of Congress would be authority for such an 
issue." 

That the heart of this young man was as pure as 
his mind was bright, may be seen by reading the fol- 
lowing remarks concerning the death of a little niece : 
"I learn with deep regret the death of poor little 



ARMY-LIFE IN KANSAS. 51 

Agnes, and sympathize heartily with Lidie and her 
husband in their affliction, the depth of which none 
but a parent can know. It should be a consolation, 
however, that the disease carried the little one away 
in all the innocence of childhood, before her mother's 
love had been intensified with years, and her own in- 
telligence had taught her to love and cling to life. The 
sad news reached me on the day of the funeral of the 
little daughter of a brother lieutenant. The little baby 
seemed very amiable in life, and after death lost none 
of her sweetness. I sat up with the remains during 
the night before the funeral." Alas ! when this no- 
ble-hearted young man gave up his own life, his only 
night-watchers were the stars and the icy mountains 
of the far-distant North ! 

In December, 1878, the Twenty-third Regiment 
received orders for service in the Indian Territory, 
and a few weeks afterward entered upon its line of 
march. In the mean time, the lieutenant made him- 
self useful in performing the duties of an engineer 
for the sanitary benefit of the Leavenworth garrison. 
After some appropriate studying, he soon got the 
knack of running the levels and measuring angles 
with the theodolite. He found these new duties in- 
teresting, preferring the field-work to the making of 
the necessary profiles and other drawings, involving 
measurements to the ygVir °^ an i ncn — rather a con- 
fining employment. 



ARMY-LIFE IN INDIAN TERRITORY AND 
COLORADO. 

Fkom the spring of 1879 until the winter of 1881, 
Lieutenant Lockwood spent a part of his time in the 
Indian Territory, but chiefly in the State of Colorado, 
The first duty of his company was to establish a can- 
tonment on the Canadian Riyer. On their way thith- 
er, they made a halt at Fort Supply, where the coun- 
try was sparsely settled, and where the rolling prairies 
seemed desolate and interminable. Those of his regi- 
ment who had been ordered to Supply, he found in 
miserable quarters — log-huts covered inside with can- 
vas — old, cold, and forlorn in appearance inside and 
out, and yet the canvas walls thus used and useless 
were furnished at a cost of hundreds of dollars. After 
leaving that place for the Canadian River, he was 
made the engineer officer, and, with a view of mak- 
ing a map of the route and surrounding country, de- 
voted his time to the science of topography, being 
rewarded by the hearty approbation of the officer in 
command. 

He had counted upon having some good hunting 
on this route for turkeys and other game, but was 
disappointed, owing to the fact, as was supposed, that 



ARMY-LIFE IN COLORADO. 53 

several hundred Indians had passed through the coun- 
try some weeks before and had gobbled up everything, 
including a host of gobblers* On reachiDg their des- 
tination, the company went into camp under a bluff 
on the Canadian Eiver, where they were to remain 
until buildings could be erected in the immediate 
vicinity. At the conclusion of his first letter written 
home from this camp, he says, "I am lying at full 
length on a buff alo-robe with my paper on ( Daniel 
Deronda,' and the position is not comfortable." 

In June, Lieutenant Lockwood was sent with a 
small party to Post Eeno, where troubles were appre- 
hended with the Indians. It was not necessary to do 
any fighting there, however, for the reason that the 
chief inhabitants of the region were rattlesnakes, ta- 
rantulas, and prairie-dogs, and the Indians in the vi- 
cinity did not seem to be in a blood-thirsty mood. 
Eeturning to the cantonment on the Canadian Eiver, 
he was depressed by the discomforts of the place — no 
society and many extra duties — but he, nevertheless, 
found time and inclination to study the Spanish lan- 
guage, as if determined not to leave a stone unturned 
in his efforts to make himself useful, or ready for any 
emergency. After confessing his fondness for social 
intercourse, he writes: "At times I get the ennui 
and blues very much. Still I try to preserve a philo- 
sophic mind, and when the dark side of the picture 
presents itself, I take a different stand-point, and thus 
force myself to see, by contrast, the bright side. I 
find, and ever have found, that the more occupied I 
am, the better contented I feel." 



54 FARTHEST NORTH. 

In April, 1880, he went upon a kind of exploring 
expedition, riding in ten days a distance of nearly 
three hundred miles, and on returning was glad 
enough to have a little rest in his camp. But, before 
he could fall into any idle habits, he was ordered west- 
ward, with his command, on still more arduous duties. 
In a letter from a camp near Saguache, on the borders 
of Colorado, he sent home the following account of 
what he had seen and experienced: "We left Fort 
Garland on the 17th of May, and have since been 
traveling across l San Luis Park,' the ' Valley of the 
Gods.' This is a vast level plain in southern Colo- 
rado, surrounded on all sides by high, snow-capped 
mountains, which always seem within a few hours' 
travel, and yet are miles and miles away. When one 
considers that Blanco Peak is over fourteen thousand 
feet above the sea-level, one does not wonder that it is 
very plainly seen from where I am now writing. This 
Paradise of the Gods is some two hundred miles long 
by over sixty across, and is a veritable desert. I have 
met nothing like it outside of Arizona. The vegeta- 
tion consists of greasewood and sage-brush — some- 
times not even this ; the irrigation-ditches that one 
meets near the few streams seem hardly able to pro- 
duce a feeble, stunted grass. For miles and miles, all 
is pulverized dust, which, blown by the winds in blind- 
ing clouds, covers everything like the ashes of a vol- 
cano. Night before last one of these pleasant zephyrs 
blew down several of the tents, and filled the air so 
thickly with dust, that several of the command, who 
had their hats blown off, were unable to find or re- 



ARMY-LIFE IN COLORADO. 55 

coyer them. They say it sometimes rains here, but I 
very much doubt it. The few ranches we have en- 
countered are on streams descending from the mount- 
ains, which sink in the plain after running a short 
distance ; and bordering them are the squalid adobe 
houses, the only habitations in the country. 

"Improbable as it may seem, the owners say that 
they raise potatoes, etc. Surely these mountains 
should be of gold and silver to compensate for the 
sterility of the soil." The prospect did not make 
Lockwood hilarious, and he frankly said that he was 
tired of army-life, and that eating almost nothing but 
bacon, and going without any comforts caused him to 
sigh for a return to the old Annapolis farm. He had 
not the ambition to enjoy the glory of army-life in 
such a wilderness. It might, indeed, give one a com- 
petency, but it was a gold-mine in Arizona that had 
recently given a fortune of fifty thousand dollars to 
one of the officers of his regiment. After a short stay 
at Garland and Alamosa, and catching a glimpse of the 
Del Norte, the command reached the Cochetapa Pass, 
near Los Pinos and the summit of the Eocky Mount- 
ains ; and now the lieutenant began to experience a 
kind of mountain-fever, which he called a weird con- 
dition of the system. He was troubled with the short- 
ness of breath usual at great altitudes. The six hun- 
dred mules drawing the train of one hundred wagons 
had great difficulty in passing through what he called 
the terrible canons. Early in June, 1880, he reached 
the Uncompahgre River, where the command en- 
camped. Hardly had he obtained any relaxation 



56 FARTHEST NORTH. 

before an order came from Fort Leavenworth, de- 
tailing a general court and making him the judge 
advocate, thereby proving that there was not much 
rest for an officer of recognized ability. While anx- 
ious to make money, he did not, while among the 
mountains, follow the example of certain fellow-offi- 
cers, who devoted some attention to mining specu- 
lations, their mode of operating being as follows : 
" For example, they secure the services of a competent 
man, provide him with food, etc., and send him out 
to prospect. Those in the Nineteenth have received 
a very nattering letter from their man, who has 
struck a very rich vein, according to Ids account. 
But this and all similar ventures are mere chance. 
Money, to the amount of twenty-five or fifty dollars, 
seems little to invest in enterprises that may pay thou- 
sands ; but these investments count up and are not 
pleasant to consider when all ends in failure. One of 
the officers has invested not less than thirty-three 
hundred dollars in this mine-hunting business. He 
goes it. alone, and has all the enthusiasm of an old 
miner." Not caring to waste his money in specula- 
tions of this sort, he improved his leisure in exploring 
the scenery of the region, especially some canons 
where the walls were several thousand feet high, and 
also a stream called Cow Creek, where he had some 
superb fishing and caught the largest trout he had 
ever seen, while his companions killed a number of 
deer. Among the scenes in which he was especially 
interested was a hot spring which measured thirty 
feet across, a waterfall two hundred feet high, and a 



ARMY-LIFE IN COLORADO. 57 

small mining hamlet nestled in a pocket of the mount- 
ains, and where, funny to relate, he and his compan- 
ions were suspected to be tramps or horse-thieves. 
Keturning to his regular cantonment on the TTncom- 
pahgre, he was informed of a pending trouble with the 
Ute Indians, when, according to his habit, he ex- 
pressed this decided opinion : "If the sentimentalists 
on Indian questions in the East could be brought out 
here and made to feel and suffer the outrages which 
these savages inflict on isolated settlers, there would 
not be so many to support the Interior Department 
in its abominable prejudice in all questions of Whites 
vs. Indians." 

In one of his letters, written from a cantonment 
in Colorado, he mentions with pain the temporary fall 
of one of his brother officers, who, while playing a 
game of poker, was charged with dishonesty, thereby 
pocketing a hundred dollars. The poor fellow had 
been placed in arrest and was to have a trial. In 
speaking of his manner of killing time in his Colorado 
camp, he alludes to the fact of having two setter dogs, 
which he was training for use and his own amuse- 
ment, and further says that when not playing a game 
of billiards at the store near the camp, he spent his 
time in reading, the books then occupying his atten- 
tion being, Tyler's "Baconian Philosophy," which he 
greatly admired ; Swinton's " History of the Kebel- 
lion," which he criticised with some severity ; and 
Green's "Russian Campaign in Turkey," which in- 
terested him greatly. 



VI. 

PREPARING FOR THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 

From this point, the story of Lieutenant Lock- 
wood's life will be chiefly given from the records 
which he kept during his sojourn in the Arctic re- 
gions. For reasons which the general reader will 
appreciate, all merely technical and official remarks 
have been omitted, and only those retained which are 
calculated to illustrate the personal character of the 
man and officer, it being understood that his journals, 
illustrating his merits and labors, will be fully set 
forth in the official history, to be hereafter published, 
of the expedition with which he was so honorably 
identified. 

In 1880 it was proposed by an International Polar 
Commission, for the purpose of elucidating in behalf 
of science the phenomena of the weather and of the 
magnetic needle, that meteorological stations should 
be established by various countries in different parts 
of the polar regions. The Congress of the United 
States made an appropriation for establishing a sci- 
entific colony at the two places designated for the oc- 
cupation of the Americans — viz., Point Barrow, in 
Alaska, and Lady Franklin Bay, in Grinnell Land. 
These stations were to be occupied for from one to 



PREPARING FOR THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 59 

three years. At the time the expedition was being 
organized in Washington for the latter place, Lieuten- 
ant Lockwood was on a visit to his parents in that 
city. Taking a special interest in the operations of 
the Signal- Service Bureau, which had the business in 
charge, he forthwith volunteered for the proposed ex- 
pedition, and his services were accepted by the Sec- 
retary of War. When the party for the Lady Frank- 
lin Bay station was fully organized, it consisted of 
First-Lieutenant Adolphus W. Greely, U. S. A., com- 
mander ; Lieutenants F. F. Kislingbury and James 
B. Lockwood, U. S. A., as assistants ; and Dr. 0. 
Pavy, as surgeon and naturalist ; with a force of 
twenty-two sergeants, corporals, and privates, all con- 
nected with the army, and whose names are given as 
follows : Edward Israel, Winfield S. Jewell, George 
W. Eice, David 0. Ealston, Hampden S. Gardiner, 
sergeants in the Signal Corps ; William H. Cross, ser- 
geant in the general service ; David L. Brainard and 
David Linn, sergeants of cavalry; Nicholas Saler, 
corporal of infantry ; Joseph Ellison, corporal of in- 
fantry ; Charles B. Henry, Maurice Connell, Jacob 
Bender, Francis Long, William Whistler, Henry Bie- 
derbick, Julius R. Fredericks, William A. Ellis, and 
Roderick R. Schneider, privates in various branches of 
the army; and, finally, two Esquimaux, Jans Ed- 
wards and Frederick Christiansen, of Greenland. 

In view of the possibility that Lady Franklin Bay 
might become a permanent station, all the prelimi- 
nary arrangements were made as complete as possible. 
A steamer called the Proteus was secured for convey- 



60 FARTHEST NORTH. 

ing the expedition to Lady Franklin Bay, and she 
was ordered to await the arrival of the explorers at 
the port of St. John's, in Newfoundland. Lieutenant 
Lockwood sailed in a steamer from Baltimore with 
the party and reached St. John's late in June. 

Here it may not be out of place to submit a few 
remarks on the utility of these Arctic explorations, 
which are sometimes criticised by people who, with- 
out due consideration, jump to hasty conclusions. In 
former times their main object was to find open pas- 
sages between the northern regions of Europe, Asia, 
and America, and to settle the problem of the north 
pole ; and statistics show that when these expeditions 
have confined their operations within reasonable lim- 
its, the mortality attending them has been remarkably 
small — less than in ordinary commercial voyages. Sir 
John Franklin went far beyond these limits, and left 
no monuments by which he could be traced. De 
Long put his ship into the polar ice with the design 
of moving with the polar drift. The Greely Expedi- 
tion was expected to be confined, and was confined, to 
the well-known waters of Smith's Sound. It could, 
therefore, be reached at any time, and, if necessary, 
it could fall back upon a point accessible at all times. 
All that was required to secure its safe return was a 
luell-chosen base, and an absolute certainty that this 
base would be maintained. Unfortunately, neither 
requirement was fulfilled, and hence nineteen men lost 
their lives. Sledge- journeys from established bases, 
though fraught with great labor and discomfort, have 
never been attended with serious loss of life. It is 



PREPARING FOR THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 61 

now about one thousand years since the first Arctic 
voyage was made, and their aggregate usefulness can 
hardly be questioned when we remember that they 
have developed fisheries that have built up the com- 
merce and navies of nations, and that the direct re- 
turn into the exchange of England has been far more 
than the cost to her of all her Arctic explorations. 
The Polar Commission, already alluded to, inaugur- 
ated a new policy in regard to Arctic explorations, 
and one whose utility can not be questioned. It had 
its origin, in 1875, in the mind of a German discov- 
erer named Carl Weyprecht ; and in the opinion of 
many of the leading minds of the world, the meteoro- 
logical observations inaugurated by him have done 
much, and will do much more, to rectify errors in 
the polar problem and bring to light information 
about the ice zones, which will give the observers a 
prominent position in scientific history. According 
to Professor Joseph Henry, the problems connected 
with physical geography and science, which are yet 
unsolved, are the determination of the figure and of 
the magnetism of the earth, complete knowledge of 
the tides of the ocean, the winds of the globe, and 
the influence of extreme cold on animal and vege- 
table life. Surely the men who voluntarily toil and 
suffer in their efforts to obtain the needed light on 
all these subjects, are quite as worthily employed as 
those who struggle for riches or political fame. In 
the Professor's opinion, all the branches of science 
above mentioned are indirectly connected with the 
well-being of man, and tend not only to enlarge his 



62 FARTHEST NORTH. 

sphere of mental activity, but to promote the applica- 
tion of science to the arts of life. A French writer, 
after applauding the plans of the Polar Commission, 
concludes his remarks as follows : "The larger num- 
ber of the civilized nations are striving by scientific 
means to wrest the mysterious secrets of the deep 
from the hidden recesses of the North." In 1884 the 
number of nations that had entered heartily into the 
project was thirteen ; fifteen polar stations, and over 
forty auxiliary stations, had already been established. 
That the reader may fully understand the operations 
and exploits which are to be chronicled in the subse- 
quent pages of this volume, it may be well to submit 
the subjoined extract from the official report of Gen- 
eral W. B. Hazen, Chief of the United States Signal 
Service, for the year 1881 : " Owing to the very mobile 
nature of the atmosphere, the changes taking place on 
one portion of the globe, especially in the Arctic zone, 
quickly affect regions very distant therefrom. The 
study of the weather in Europe and America can not 
be successfully prosecuted without a daily map of the 
whole northern hemisphere, and the great blank space 
of the Arctic region upon our simultaneous interna- 
tional chart has long been a subject of regret to me- 
teorologists. The general object is to accomplish, by 
observations made in concert at numerous stations, 
such additions to our knowledge as can not be acquired 
by isolated or desultory traveling parties. No special 
attempt will be made at geographical exploration, and 
neither expedition is in any sense expected to reach the 
north pole. The single object is to elucidate the phe- 



PREPARING FOR THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 63 

nomena of the weather and of the magnetic needle as 
they occur in America and Europe, by means of ob- 
servations taken in the region where the most remark- 
able disturbances seem to haye their origin." 

While the foregoing were to be considered as the 
primary considerations, it was expressly stated in the 
official instructions, that sledging parties, generally, 
should work in the interests of exploration and dis- 
covery, and should be conducted with all possible 
care and fidelity. Careful attention was also to be 
given to the collection of specimens of the animal, 
mineral, and vegetable kingdoms. It will be seen that 
all that was accomplished by Lieutenant Lockwood 
was instigated by the mandate connected with the 
use of the sledge. 

It thus appears that the Greely expedition was not 
only intended to accomplish a good work, but that 
in all human probability the same might have been 
accomplished without serious loss of life. That there 
was a deplorable loss of life, we can only lament, leav- 
ing for others to point out the causes of the disaster 
which befell the expedition. 



VII. 

FROM NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FKANK- 

LIN BAY. 

All things being ready, the Greely Expedition left 
St. John's, Newfoundland, for Lady Franklin Bay, on 
Thursday, July 7, 1881, in the steamer Proteus, Cap- 
tain Pike. She was a barkentine, measuring two 
hundred and fifty feet in length, and having a bur- 
den of six hundred tons. Built in Scotland for the 
whaling and sealing service, she had already made 
several successful voyages within the Arctic Circle and 
on the Labrador coast. The departure of the ship 
elicited no demonstration from the people on the dock, 
excepting a few cheers from some warm-hearted fisher- 
men. Whether the good people of Newfoundland were 
disgusted because they could not sell any more sup- 
plies at extravagant prices, or were displeased with 
the Yankee explorers for presuming to compete with 
Englishmen in the icy North, are questions not to be 
easily solved. 

During his stay in St. John's, Lieutenant Lock- 
wood wrote a letter to his mother, in which he gave 
the following account of the city : 

" St. John's is a queer and forlorn old place ; every- 
thing is antiquated, slow, and behind the times in 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 65 

every respect. The few hotels are more like third- 
class boarding-houses ; a livery-stable is not to be 
found in this city of thirty thousand. This condition 
of affairs is said to be due to the religion of the place, 
which is Eoman Catholic. It is charged that ignor- 
ance and poverty are what this church most thrives 
on, and it is certainly a thriving church here. The 
other day the shops were all closed, and the place as- 
sumed the appearance of Sunday — it was a holy day 
for their patron saints, Peter and Paul. Only two 
classes here — the poor and the rich — and everything 
accords with the former class. Crooked streets and 
mean, forlorn, dirty houses everywhere. The only 
respectable public buildings are the Catholic churches 
and the convents." 

With the wind favorable, the sea calm, the sky 
clear, and all in good spirits, away went the vessel 
on her voyage to the North. A steam-launch, called 
the Lady Greely, rested securely on the main deck. 
It was arranged that the sergeants of the expedi- 
tion should sleep in the cabin, eating at the second 
table, and the rest of the men live forward ; and, 
though somewhat crowded, it was hoped they would 
all be comfortable. During the first twenty-four 
hours, two hundred miles were made. Lieutenant 
Greely and most of the men were sea-sick. At sun- 
set on the second day out, the first iceberg was seen, 
and attracted the special attention of the land-lub- 
bers. On the 9th, gales from the northwest set in, 
and the sick men became worse — the thermometer 
marking forty degrees, the air being damp and un- 



66 FARTHEST NORTH. 

comfortable. The wind moderated in the evening, 
but left the sea very rough, so that the steam-launch 
had to be secured in her cradle by braces. Although 
then in the track of the St. Lawrence trade, not a 
single vessel was seen, suggesting the idea that busi- 
ness was not nourishing. As to Lieutenant Lock- 
wood, he was in good spirits, and amused himself by 
reading Kennan's interesting book on Siberian life. 
On the following day the sea went down, and the 
sick men came up from their berths and were able to 
resume their places at the table, Lockwood and Kis- 
lingbury being the only ones who had escaped sea-sick- 
ness. When the former had finished Kennan's book, 
he took up Barrow's " Yoyage within the Arctic Cir- 
cle," reading it in the presence of several icebergs, 
which appeared as if they intended to welcome the 
band of Yankee adventurers to their inhospitable do- 
main. 

On the morning of the 11th, notwithstanding the 
promise of fine summer weather, the sky became over- 
cast, and at noon the captain, assisted by the vol- 
unteers, including Lockwood, Israel, and Gardiner, 
could hardly succeed in getting observations, and 
though they reckoned the latitude at 58°, it was not 
reliable. Rain, attended with high winds or gales, suc- 
ceeded, the sufferers from sea-sickness finding refuge 
in their berths. Ellis, one of the sergeants, suffered 
more than the others, having refused all food since 
leaving port. They could give him no aid save a lit- 
tle wine and beef -tea. The cold, cheerless weather 
depressed the spirits of all, but they hoped to get used 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 67 

to it. The days were sensibly growing longer, be- 
ginning at 1.45 A. m. and closing at 10 P. M. They 
now remarked the absence of icebergs and ice-floes, 
and wondered whether this meant that the previous 
winter in the north had been so mild that but little 
ice had formed, or that the spring had been so back- 
ward that but little had become detached and drifted 
southward. They had learned at St. John's that the 
late winter had been the mildest ever known there. 
At the close of the 11th, no land was in sight, and 
they had made seven hundred miles. The steward in- 
formed Lockwood that the men were growling about 
their food, which was the same as that received in the 
cabin. He thought this a bad sign for Arctic explor- 
ers, but tried to make matters more satisfactory. 

The next day was disagreeable, a cold rain falling ; 
and though a strong head-wind was blowing, the 
sea was smooth, betokening land or ice, it was sup- 
posed. Accordingly, at 9 p. m., they were aroused 
by the cry of "ice ahead," and, sure enough, there 
was seen, extending over 90° of the horizon, the white 
line indicating an ice-floe. Coming up to the ice, 
they found it to consist of detached pieces flowing 
southward. Some of these assumed the most fantastic 
shapes — dogs, seals, and other animals, and even houses 
and castles, readily presenting themselves to the imagi- 
nation. One piece looked like an old ruin. The pil- 
lars, dome, and vaulted roof, all were there ; indeed, 
the effect was perfect. Again, other pieces presented 
varieties of color most beautiful and remarkable. 
Generally, the lower parts being dark blue, were sur- 



68 FARTHEST NORTH. 

mounted by a stratum of pure white, resembling snow, 
but really the purest ice. They were two hours in 
getting through this floe. Although daylight was 
continuous, they could not, because of fogs, distin- 
guish the hours of sunrise or sunset. 

On the following day the weather was still cloudy, 
and another ice-floe detained them two hours. They 
also saw many isolated pieces and large icebergs in the 
distance. This ice, it was said, came from the east 
coast of Greenland with a current which, flowing 
around Cape Farewell, passes up the west coast half 
way to Disco. It still proved interesting to the voy- 
agers by reason of its fantastic shapes and diversified 
colors — white, blue, and green. It rose a few feet 
above the water-line, and the submerged portion of the 
floe colored the water a most beautiful green. Seals 
were then seen for the first time, basking in the sun 
on the ice. Judging from the increased seas, they 
expected no more ice-floes in front. The temperature 
also indicated this, for it was sensibly warmer. Lock- 
wood, who seemed never to be idle, now finished Bar- 
row and took up Captain Nares's " British Expedi- 
tion of 1875-76," reading, writing, and Bowditch 
occupying much of his time. The crow's nest was 
hoisted to the main-top on that day. This was a large 
barrel or hogshead with peep-holes on the side and a 
trap beneath. This afforded shelter for a man posted 
there who looked out for the ice and the best way of 
getting through it. 

On the 16th, fogs detained them and interfered with 
noon observations, but, lifting at three o'clock, they 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAT. 69 

sighted the Greenland coast on the starboard bow, dis- 
tant fifteen miles. The coast-line appeared exceed- 
ingly rugged and broken, and the interior, mountain- 
ous with deep ravines running very abruptly down to 
the sea. The mountain-tops were covered with snow, 
but generally the sides were bare of snow except the 
ravines, which seemed to be filled up entirely. This 
range of mountains reminded Lockwood of the Un- 
compahgre chain in Colorado as seen from Los Pinos 
Valley. They saw the usual number of gulls and 
a species of duck called the sea-pigeon, also several 
whales blowing and spouting in the distance, sur- 
rounded by flocks of small birds which seemed to feed 
on their offal. Kislingbury and the steward tried 
rifles on these whales, but without success. One whale 
being near by, with apparent design to cross the track 
of the vessel, was met by the rifle-ball, but with no 
other effect than to cause him to throw up his tail and 
dive below the surface. The thermometer rose to 50° 
on that day, rendering the deck, where all were assem- 
bled to view the prospect, quite comfortable. They 
then first witnessed the sunset since leaving St. John's, 
because of the fogs and clouds that had constantly 
attended the voyage. The sun's disk seemed greatly 
flattened just as it disappeared at 10.20, and presented 
much the appearance of a huge mushroom seen edge- 
wise. Enough of twilight remained at midnight to 
render the horizon visible. 

On the 16th, they steamed cautiously through the 
fog, making but fourteen knots between noon and 6 
p. m. Then the high, bold bluffs forming the southern 



70 FARTHEST NORTH. 

coast of Disco Island loomed up in the distance di- 
rectly ahead. These bluffs are almost vertical and 
probably five hundred feet high, and are desolate and 
barren in the extreme. Their continuity is interrupted 
only by deep ravines, or canons, which break through 
at various angles to the sea. They there found them- 
selves in the midst of a hundred icebergs of every 
conceivable form and size, and in color of the purest 
white, resembling in the distance huge mountains 
of chalk. One of the sights that attracted special 
notice consisted of two bergs connected by an immense 
arch high enough overhead for the ship to sail be- 
neath, reminding Lockwood of the Natural Bridge of 
Virginia. On near approach it looked like marble 
and was quite as smooth. Some time afterward, and 
when two miles away, a signal-gun was fired for a pilot. 
This was followed by a rumbling noise, which caused 
the voyagers to look back, when they were surprised 
to see this immense arch tumble over and fall into the 
sea, throwing the spray a hundred feet into the air 
and producing a commotion of the sea sensible two 
miles away, and soon after followed by a noise like 
distant thunder. Most truly sublime were both spec- 
tacle and catastrophe ! Icebergs are regarded as very 
dangerous both by the Esquimaux and by experienced 
Arctic travelers, and are given a wide berth. 

Moving on at a low speed, the steamer was finally 
boarded by a white man attended by an Esquimaux, the 
former introducing himself as Mr. Gleichen, the Gov- 
ernor of Godhaven, Lively, or Disco, as the capital is 
variously called. The vessel was soon twisted through 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. ft 

the narrow opening behind which the town lies, and 
the voyagers found themselves in the snuggest and 
smallest harbor, for its depth of water, that any of the 
party had ever seen. On one side were the high cliffs, 
barren and rugged, and on the other the few habita- 
tions which constituted the place, the only dwellings 
presenting an appearance of anything more than squal- 
id huts being those of the governor and of the in- 
spector, a Mr. Smith. Besides the dwellings, there 
were several warehouses and a church, all of wood. 
The huts of the natives were to some extent of wood, 
but strengthened and made warm by thick walls of 
sod reaching to the eaves. 

Greely, Kislingbury, and Lockwood immediately 
went ashore to visit the inspector, whose house stood 
near the water and presented a neat appearance. 
Within they found quite an air of comfort and refine- 
ment. A piano, a small billiard-table, a well-filled 
book-case, carpets, pictures, and many other evidences 
of civilization and even elegance were there. They 
found the wife of the inspector very pleasant and 
speaking English fluently, while her daughter and a 
governess, though speaking English with difficulty, 
were well dressed and ladylike. After taking wine 
with these hospitable ladies, the lieutenants left their 
commander to continue the conversation and wandered 
forth to view the town. Passing without mishap sev- 
eral cross-looking Esquimaux dogs, they found them- 
selves in what seemed a carpenter's shop, on the large, 
bare floor of which a dance was in progress. After 
playing spectators for some time they indulged in a 
4 



72 FARTHEST NORTH. 

waltz with the prettiest girls in the room, and were 
surprised and pleased to find how well they got along 
together. Their round dances were found to be like 
many figures of the "German" as danced in the 
United States. Kislingbury gave the natives an ex- 
hibition of the Indian dance, and thus became a fa- 
vorite with them. 

The dress of the men consisted of a pair of seal- 
skin pantaloons and a woolen or checked shirt. That 
of the women was very peculiar — indeed, unique. One 
of the girls, whose dress may be taken to illustrate all, 
wore a pair of seal-skin pantalets bound at the hips by 
a red scarf and terminating just above the knees, 
where they met the white canvas tops of a pair of 
boots, or rather leggings. These reached to the calf, 
and there met the tops of red seal-skin bootlets, into 
which they were inserted. These leggings were 
starched and prettily fringed at the top, and their 
color indicated the state as to matrimony of the 
wearer, white being reserved for maidens, and colors 
for those that were married. This distinction was 
afterward found to be general. The pantalets were 
plain, except some red leather pieces sewed on in front 
by way of ornament. The upper garment consisted 
of a pretty, fancy-colored cassock, or jacket, extending 
barely to the hips, replaced in cold weather by the 
same of seal-skin with a hood. The upper part of the 
jacket was concealed by a necklace, or rather by sev- 
eral necklaces, sewed together flat, which formed a 
collar covering the bosom and shoulders. The head 
was covered by a kind of chaplet formed of fancy- 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 73 

colored cloth, and the hair was done up in a queue, 
which extended upward and backward from the top 
of the head, and was tied with colored ribbon. The 
wrists and neck were encircled with boas of dark-col- 
ored furs, which contrasted well with the bright-col- 
ored skin. The arms were bare to the short sleeves 
of the jacket, and on the fingers were a number of 
rings. So much for the Disco belles ! 

The dancing officers did not reach their ship until 
after midnight, and soon after the sun rose, flood- 
ing all nature with his glorious light, and seemingly 
affecting natives and strangers alike, for both were 
seen standing around to admire and enjoy the bene- 
diction of nature. 

Inspector Smith visited the steamer, dressed in a 
military coat with brass buttons, and military cap with 
wide gold-lace band, but wearing seal-skin trousers. 
The strangers soon found themselves surrounded by a 
fleet of Esquimaux boats, called hijacks, resembling in 
form a cigar cut in half lengthwise and turned up at 
both ends. The framework of wood was covered with 
seal-skin with the hair removed. In the center was a 
hole into which the occupant inserted the lower part of 
his body to the hips, drawing up at the same time a cy- 
lindrical piece of seal-skin which was attached to the 
rim of the hole. "When the top of this is gathered up 
and secured over his chest, the man and boat are practi- 
cally one, and both are water-proof under all circum- 
stances. The upper surface of the kyack is but an 
inch or two above the water when smooth, and when 
rough, of course it is frequently submerged entirely. 



74 FARTHEST NORTH. 

In this craft the kyacker braves the billows of the 
open sea, and, provided with lance and harpoon to 
slay his game, and bladder and rope to mark its 
flight when struck and buoy up its body when killed, 
he attacks the seal, walrus, or even the narwhal. In 
South Greenland, where there is more open water, 
the kyackers become very expert, and, by means of 
their short, two-bladed paddles, can easily right them- 
selves when upset, or even perform a complete revolu- 
tion without changing position or posture. 

On Sunday, the 17th, Lieutenant Lockwood called 
on the governor, and then went into many of the 
houses of the place ; he found the natives polite and 
hospitable, living in clean, well-built huts, whose in- 
terior presented nothing peculiar except that about 
one third of the floor was raised a few feet, constitut- 
ing a platform, which was used as the sleeping-couch 
of the whole family by night, and by day as a place 
of deposit for articles in daily use. The walls were 
adorned with rough prints or illustrations from Euro- 
pean and American papers. In one house was seen a 
translation of the Psalms into Esquimaux. Their words 
are run together, as in the German language. Lock- 
wood made some purchases, giving in return an old 
pair of pantaloons, old clothes being a circulating me- 
dium, and preferred to money. He was surprised to 
find that these people had a paper currency, the units 
being the ocre and the crown, one hundred ocres 
making one crown, while the crown is worth about an 
English shilling. In dealing with one another, the 
ocre seems to go a good way, but not so when a 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 75 

stranger is dealt with ; and to do much, shopping with 
this currency, one must carry a load of paper equal to 
what was required of Confederate currency in war- 
times to buy a barrel of flour. The coins were of 
copper, valued each at five ocres. 

On the following day, Lieutenants Greely, Kis- 
lingbury, and Lockwood, all dined at four o'clock 
with the inspector's family, by invitation of his wife, 
in the absence of her husband on official duty ; the 
courses being soup, fish, eider-duck, and canned green 
peas, with a dessert of jelly ; wines and brandy being 
served with the courses. The cooking and serving 
were excellent, the waitress an Esquimaux damsel in 
pantalets. Afterward, with others, they called on the 
governor, and with him went down to witness a dance. 
Lockwood learned that the population of the two 
divisions of North and South Greenland together was 
about nine thousand souls. 

On the 19th, at the request of Lieutenant Greely, 
Lockwood made an exploration of the mountain-cliffs 
south of the town. After a long tramp over the 
soggy moss, and up steep cliffs, much annoyed by in- 
numerable mosquitoes, he returned to dinner, with 
very little information worthy of mention. After 
superintending some stowage, he again called to see 
Mrs. Smith, the inspector's wife, and enjoyed her ex- 
cellent piano-music, to say nothing of the wine and 
cigars she offered. Then he went to the dance, 
but not until after the men had left. These 
Greenland dances, as already intimated, resemble 
the Virginia reel, differing only in the alternate 



76 FARTHEST NORTH. 

chasing of the partners through the two rows till 
caught. 

Haying completed their stowage and coaling, and 
haying taken on board fourteen dogs with their food, 
they would have left Disco but for the fogs. Dr. 
Pavy, who had been left there by Howgate, joined the 
party on the 20th, as surgeon, as Mr. Clay was ex- 
pected to do at Eitenbank. They had some music 
on the chapel organ in the evening, which was well 
rendered. 

The penning of the dogs was a scene of excitement 
and amusement. Their snarling and biting and fight- 
ing had no end until one of the number present was 
acknowledged, for his prowess and valor, the victor by 
all the others. Then the battle ceased, but only un- 
til there was a new arrival, when the battle was re- 
newed and the parvenu put hors de combat, or declared 
king. In due time the steamer left Disco, and arrived 
at Ritenbank between 10 and 12 A. m. The harbor 
was found to be quite roomy and the entrance wide 
and deep ; icebergs float into it, and thus render 
Ritenbank less desirable as a harbor than Disco. 
While there, with Mr. Clay (who now joined the ex- 
pedition) and some of the men, Lockwood visited the 
neighboring bird mountains or looneries, rowing up a 
fiord some three miles distant. The approach to these 
was manifested by the commotion among the innumer- 
able eider-ducks and other wild fowl flying overhead, 
swimming in the water around, or occupying the nar- 
row ledges of the vertical cliffs on either side, some 
of which were five hundred feet high and covered with 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 77 

birds. The shot used being too small, would kill only 
at short range, and it was difficult to obtain the game ; 
consequently they got only seventy fowls of various 
kinds. On their return they visited an Innuit 
burying - ground, which, from its antiquity, must 
contain many of the natives, whose blood is much 
purer than that of the present stock ; for it is said the 
present Esquimaux blood is now very much mixed. 
The graves were oblong piles of lichen-covered stones, 
containing the moldering skeletons, which were gener- 
ally in a sitting posture. But little regard is paid to 
the dead in Greenland. Influenza, and consumption 
induced thereby, are rapidly carrying off the natives, 
and this is increased by uncleanly habits, improper 
food, and bad ventilation, the latter aggravated by the 
introduction of small stoves into their close houses. 
The present longevity, it is said, averages thirty-three 
years. 

The prevailing fogs greatly decreased the pleasure 
the explorers would have had in viewing the grand scen- 
ery in the passage to Upernavik, which they reached 
on the 23 d of July, or in about fifteen days from 
Newfoundland. They had in sight numbers of ice- 
bergs, some of immense size. The whole western coast 
of Greenland is skirted with islands, separated from 
each other and the mainland by deep fiords. If it 
were not for the fogs, a pleasant summer excursion 
could be made through these fiords to the everlasting 
barrier of glaciers, which render the interior a veritable 
land of desolation. 

Very soon after the expedition had arrived at 



78 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Upernavik, it was found necessary for some one to go 
to a place called Proven, to obtain Esquimaux guides 
and a supply of Arctic clothing, and to Lieutenant 
Lockwood was assigned this duty. He and his help- 
ers boarded the steam-launch, and, with Governor 
Elburg as guide, proceeded on their way through an 
inner passage leading to the place of destination. 
Their course lay along rocky and precipitous cliffs, 
many of them covered with auks and other wild fowl. 
The cliffs attained an elevation of two and three thou- 
sand feet, and were so smooth and regular as to have 
the appearance of having been made by man. With- 
out any shore whatever, large ships could lie alongside 
in safety. On their arrival at Proven, they saw the 
whole population in their picturesque costumes lining 
the shore, to view what they had never seen before — a 
craft moving without oars or sails. 

Near the shore wore located four large warehouses 
where seal-oil was deposited before shipment, and 
where also were kept by the Danish Government sup- 
plies of provisions for issue to the natives in case of 
emergency. The huts of the, natives were found still 
more primitive than those at Disco, for here the en- 
trance was through a long, low gallery, requiring one to 
grope in darkness almost on hands and knees. Lock- 
wood softened the heart of the occupant of one by 
presents of tobacco, and induced him to play on his 
fiddle simple airs which he had picked up from whal- 
ing-crews. This brought in all the damsels of the 
town, and soon waltzes and other dances prevailed. 
The lieutenant did not consider it beneath his dignity 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAT. 79 

to " show a heel." He unfortunately answered affirm- 
atively to the question, "Are you big captain ?" and 
was also imprudent in giving an old lady a half-dozen 
ocres. He was at once pounced upon by every one as 
lawful prey, and, what through begging, extortion, 
and other means, the " big captain " was soon rid of 
all his change, and might have been reduced to a 
state of nudity but for the timely arrival of the gov- 
ernor, who took him home to dine and to lodge. The 
soup, though sweet to the taste, was good ; floating in 
it were lemon-peel and raisins. Next came reindeer- 
steaks cooked in wine and most delicious. Potatoes 
were the only vegetable. Cooking and serving excel- 
lent. Brandy, beer, and wine in profusion. The meal 
terminated by a general hand-shaking, according to 
custom, and the governor kissed his wife. The lodg- 
ing was equally agreeable, affording the luxury of a 
clean feather bed. In the morning, and while yet in 
bed, a young Esquimaux damsel in pantalets brought 
the American a cup of strong coffee with a few crack- 
ers. That day he took on board the launch two 
Esquimaux, Frederick Christiansen and Jans Ed- 
wards, lashing their kyacks behind, also the seal-skin, 
dog-skin, and other clothing they had come for, and 
at midnight left amid the hearty cheers of the natives 
and the tears and lamentations of the friends of Jans 
and Frederick who had come to see them off. 

After an uneventful passage, and stopping only to 
add one hundred and twenty-seven birds to their 
larder, the launch reached the ship at 10 A. m. on the 
25th. Lieutenant Kislingbury and a crew in the 



80 FARTHEST NORTH. 

whale-boat afterward went to Sanderson's Hope Island 
and secured several hundred more, so that there was 
no scarcity of fresh food. In the mean time some 
new dogs were secured, so that the total number now 
on hand was thirty-two. 

The ship left Upernavik on the 29th, and, keep- 
ing the inner passage, made her way toward the north. 

While crossing Melyille Bay on the 30th, there 
was no ice in sight except bergs, and the sun shone 
brightly. That state of things was a great surprise 
to the explorers, as here it was that McClintock was 
frozen in for a whole year, and Nares congratulated 
himself in haying passed the bay without detention. 
Indeed, Melyille Bay has always been regarded as the 
bete noire of Arctic travel. An Arctic bear found on a 
broken pack of floating ice was killed by Lieutenant 
Kislingbury, and, when hoisted on board, was found 
to weigh a thousand pounds and to measure seven 
feet two inches in length. They were probably fifty 
miles from land at the time. 

On the last day of July, the Proteus party sighted 
land, which they supposed to be Cape Dudley Diggs, 
north of Melville's Bay. Much old floating ice was 
seen, but so rotten as to offer no obstruction. Sev- 
eral seals and many little auks were killed and secured. 

About this time Lockwood and others observed 
tokens of disrespect and insubordination on the part 
of some of the men, which were traced to a certain 
corporal as ringleader. Lockwood watched him with 
care, and urged the propriety of sending him home 
by the first opportunity, which was afterward done. 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 81 

On one occasion, toward evening, the voyagers wit- 
nessed the overturning of an iceberg three hundred 
feet long and one hundred and fifty feet high. After 
capsizing, it continued to revolve on several axes for 
some time. Its change of base was preceded by the 
fall of several detached pieces, thus shifting its center 
of gravity. 

The next day, August 1st, was clear and cool, and 
without fog. Passed Dudley Diggs at noon and then 
steered for Gary Islands, sighting them three hours 
later. The officers looked hard for the crimson cliffs 
near Dudley Diggs noticed by Sir John Ross, but ob- 
served only some slight discoloration of the snow. 
The glacier near this cape seemed to be two or 
three miles long ; at the sea-shore, of inconsiderable 
height, but in the background, attaining an imposing 
elevation. The ship's compasses, as usual in this lati- 
tude, were all crazy, occasioning some bewilderment 
to the captain. The bear and seal meats were duly 
served on shipboard, and pronounced palatable by 
all, though to some the bear-meat was slightly fishy. 
Two boats with all the officers and others landed on 
the most easterly of the Oary Islands, and proceeded 
at once to find and inspect the cache of provisions — 
thirty-six hundred rations — left there by Sir George 
Nares for his own safety. They were apparently in 
good condition, notwithstanding many of the barrels 
resting on their ends afforded opportunity for rain 
and snow-water to enter. Some biscuits were found 
moldy. Replaced the Nares record by a copy, and also 
left a full record of the Proteus. There was found 



82 FARTHEST NORTH. 

there an excellent whale-boat, turned bottom upward, 
with oars and sails complete. This Lock wood urged 
Lieutenant Greely to take along, but he preferred get- 
ting the one at Eoulke Point. The former regarded 
the supply of boats as too small, and circumstances 
might arise which would cause them to regret not using 
this one. They had only the steam-launch, a twenty- 
four-feet whale-boat, and a small, fourteen-feet row- 
boat — the whale-boat being the only one to be depend- 
ed on in case of accident. The boat at Point Eoulke 
was thought to be inferior. They picked up drift- 
wood, an oar, and some burned pieces of a ship's stem 
or stern. They also saw some red snow, and shot sev- 
eral eider-ducks. The Cary Islands were found to be 
barren masses of rocks without vegetation. 

The steamer came to anchor at Littleton Island 
at 9 A. m. on the 2d of August, just as the steering- 
gear gave way. A party went to " Life-boat Cove" 
and brought back a number of articles left by the 
Polaris Expedition of 1873. They saw neither Esqui- 
maux nor reindeer, but shot a walrus. Lieutenant 
Greely made an effort to find the cairn left there by 
Nares, and the letters left for ISTares by the Pandora. 
He found the letters but not the cairn, though there 
was a dismantled cairn afterward seen by others. Lock- 
wood with a party of men put ashore several tons of 
coal, which, as it had to be carried up some thirty feet 
above the sea - level, he found no easy job. While 
thus engaged, this party had an adventure with some 
walruses, not unattended with danger. Having ex- 
cited a drove of them by a simultaneous fire, the 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 83 

animals came toward the boat, and at one time held 
its inmates in peril. Lockwood alone was prepared to 
meet the foremost, and by good luck slew one of them, 
when all the rest disappeared. The walrus can be 
killed only through the brain, and when wounded, 
the animal is exceedingly ferocious. Numberless 
boats haye been destroyed by them. Lamont thinks 
the walrus superior to the bear for food. Those 
they saw were evidently a female and her young, 
and their safety was in haying killed the mother. 
Littleton Island affords a good illustration of these 
shores. The sides rise precipitously, sometimes in 
steps composed of immense cubes of trap-rock, some- 
times in steep slopes formed from the crumbling of 
the same. The top of the island is seven hundred feet 
high, according to Nares, and generally quite level. 
Of soil, there is none. The summit afforded a fine 
view of the sound, though somewhat obstructed by 
fog. ISTo floating ice ; and the western coast with its 
snowy mountains quite distinct. 

Having crossed the strait during the night of the 
2d of August, in the early morning they ran along the 
western coast, which was very distinct and pictur- 
esque, the bluffs and headlands being reflected by the 
smooth sea. Striking the western coast near Cape Sa- 
bine, at 8 A. m. they reached Cape Hawkes, a headland 
over a thousand feet high and very picturesque. While 
Lieutenants Greely and Kislingbury visited the cairn 
there, Dr, Pavy and Lieutenant Lockwood went to find 
the record on Washington Irving Island, both left by 
Nares. They then continued their way with slight in- 



84: FARTHEST NORTH. 

terruptions from fogs until abreast of Franklin Island, 
when they were obliged to lay-to because of fog. 
They had not been delayed a moment by ice, and 
were surprised to see so little of it. Their success em- 
boldened them to hope that they might reach Lady 
Franklin Bay without obstruction. Indeed, they 
even thought of inducing Captain Pike to run on 
until he reached the north pole itself, or at least till 
he attained a higher latitude than did Nares. One 
of the dogs haying died, they became impressed with 
the thought that the poor curs suffered much from 
being cooped up and from the damp weather. The 
party continued on their way up Kennedy Channel 
with everything favorable, having the finest weather 
yet seen; air soft and balmy, sky clear, and water 
smooth. 

On reaching the vicinity of Franklin Island and 
Carl Eitter Bay, they left there a small deposit of 
hard bread, pemmican, and rum, and continued on 
their way rejoicing ; and so onward until nearly 10 
p. m., when, just above Cape Lieber, they encountered 
an impenetrable pack extending all the way across 
the channel, and as far ahead as they could see. The 
ship made a savage dash at it, but in vain, and thus, 
but eight miles from Lady Franklin Bay, and with 
Cape Baird in full view, they were brought to a stand- 
still. The mountains along the coast were covered 
with snow, but the valleys and low places were bare. 
The prominent objects of the landscape were all dis- 
tinctly seen from their position — Capes Lieber and 
Baird on the left, Franklin, Hans, and Hanna Islands 



NEWFOUNDLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 85 

in the rear and left, and, in the far distance, Polaris 
Promontory and Petermann's Fiord, with the glacier 
beyond. A party that went on shore saw traces of the 
nxusk-ox, but no animals were seen. 

Several of the officers and men attempted the as- 
cent of the promontory of Cape Lieber, a precipitous 
cliff three thousand feet high, which seemed but a 
stone's throw away, but to reach which required a long, 
cold row, and then a fatiguing and painful climb. 
Lockwood and two only of the party succeeded. The 
difficulty was in the giving way of the crumbling 
slate-rock, which formed an incline of 45°. Those 
that reached the summit were rewarded by a grand 
view, extending to the limit of vision. On their re- 
turn, after clambering over some rocks cropping out of 
the slippery snow and ice, they chose a short cut and 
came down at a run, or rather slide, followed by a 
miniature avalanche of debris. On the 6th of August, 
it was found that the icy barrier, which, evidently 
came from the Polar Sea, was moving south, carrying 
the steamer along. Some game was seen in both air 
and water, but none taken. Parties attempted to 
reach the shore on the ice, but were recalled by signal, 
as moving ice was seen from the ship, and also open 
water near the shore. 

From this point they slowly drifted south, with 
high winds from the north which opened up lanes of 
water which they did not think safe to enter. The 
total drift amounted to ten miles. "With the low- 
ering of temperature, it was suggested that it would 
be well to move across the channel, along the pack, 



86 FARTHEST NORTH. 

and, if needful, land on the Greenland shore, possi- 
bly where Hall had wintered. 

On the 11 th of August, the ice barrier gave way 
under a change of wind and weather, leaying the 
passage open. Under full steam and sail, and with 
beautiful weather, they soon regained all the distance 
they had lost by drift, passed Cape Lieber, and came 
abreast of Cape Baird. Thence forcing their way 
through the broken ice of the bay, and reaching 
Bellot Island, which marks the beginning of Discov- 
ery Harbor, they cut their way to a secure spot for 
the ship to rest in. And thus ended the voyage to 
Lady Franklin Bay or Sound. As this harbor, or 
a spot in its vicinity called Fort Conger, was the 
one where the Signal-Service station was to be es- 
tablished, the steamer Proteus here ended her voy- 
age, soon to return to Newfoundland. Discovery 
Harbor, which was to be their home, is an indenta- 
tion of the bay covered by Bellot Island on the south. 
This indentation extends east and west some ten 
miles, and is probably two or three miles from north 
to south. Inclosing the harbor on three sides is a 
line of rugged bluffs and hills (or rather mountains, 
for they are two thousand feet high), those on the 
east side sloping back gradually, but elsewhere pre- 
cipitous and rugged in the extreme. Thus, with Bel- 
lot's Island fifteen hundred feet high on the south, 
was formed a harbor, landlocked and most admirably 
sheltered. 



VIII. 

HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLOEA- 
TIONS. 

Immediately after the explorers had anchored 
their ship in Discovery Harbor, they saw a drove of 
musk-oxen leisurely ascending the neighboring hills, 
which they climbed with the facility of goats. This 
was indeed a cheerful prospect for men in so isolated a 
region and without fresh meat, and many of them 
started forthwith in pursuit of the game, working 
their way to the shore on the ice, but were com- 
pelled to return after a vain attempt to follow the 
animals oyer the hills. 

Hitherto there had been no opportunity to make 
any special discoveries, but now a comparatively new 
field, to which the explorers were to devote all their 
energies, came into view. Discovery, however, was to 
be always subordinated to the duties of meteorological 
observations. As this narrative proceeds, it will be 
seen that Lieutenant Lockwood was not only emi- 
nently active at all times, but most successful as an 
explorer. 

It being desirable to establish the station as near 
as possible to the coal-mine on Watercourse Bay, Lock- 
wood was dispatched with Messrs. Clay and Eyan, to 



88 FARTHEST NORTH. 

report as to the practicability of carrying out this, the 
original intention. According to the map prepared by 
Nares, this bay lies seven miles distant on the strait, 
and is separated from Discovery Harbor by the mount- 
ain-ridge on the east, which terminates southward in 
Distant Cape. They attempted the passage across these 
hills, following a ravine leading in the proper direc- 
tion, and had gone only a short distance when they 
saw seven musk-oxen quietly grazing. Making a d&- 
tour, they thought to take them unawares, but soon 
saw them move away to some distance up a steep in- 
cline. Expending vainly a few shots at long range, 
they followed the animals up the hill, over a steep ledge 
of rocks, and into a valley on the other side. Here the 
men halted, concealed from view, and arranged plans 
for their capture. The animals were covered by pre- 
cipitous rocks on one side. Clay, Eyan, and Lock- 
wood approached them simultaneously on the other 
three sides, and thus had them surrounded and at 
their mercy. Some depressions and other irregulari- 
ties of the ground enabled the hunters, by crouching 
low down, to approach the game unawares. Clay 
firing first, the whole herd rushed toward Lockwood's 
side, closing up as it came, and, seeing him, made 
a charge. Dropping on one knee, he threw his car- 
tridges down and blazed away with great rapidity. 
Many shots telling, the animals halted before him 
only a few rods off, and at once attempted a flank 
movement ; but now Clay and Eyan closing up, the 
herd was check-mated. In five minutes from the 
first shot every animal of the herd — five grown and 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 89 

two calves — lay dead before the hunters. The hunt- 
ers were sorry they had killed the calves, but in the 
excitement it could hardly have been otherwise. They 
then returned to the ship to report their success, and 
to have the carcasses brought in. This addition to 
their larder was the occasion of great joy, not only as 
giving a present supply of fresh meat, but in its 
promise for the future ; not only as a luxury, but as 
the only certain means of warding off the scurvy, so 
much and so justly dreaded by Arctic explorers. 

After supper of that day, Lockwood, ever ready 
for adventure, again started for Watercourse Bay, 
accompanied by Clay, Kalston, and the mate of the 
Proteus. Following the small stream, which came 
into the harbor at this point, for three miles, by an 
easy and regular ascent between lofty mountains on 
either side with a slope of about forty-five degrees, 
and over ground and patches of snow thrown up like 
potato-hills, they reached its head, and there, fortu- 
nately, found another stream running in the other 
direction. Following this, they were brought to 
"Watercourse Creek, which runs into Watercourse Bay. 
Being uncertain whether the coal-mine, said to be 
on this creek, was above or below this point, they 
followed the creek up-stream three miles, when, not 
finding it, they retraced their steps to the point 
where they entered the creek, and, finding it im- 
possible to follow the bed, climbed the bank. Here 
they saw two more musk-oxen, which they slew by 
strategy as before, and, opening the carcasses with 
penknives, left them to be carried in. Coming near 



90 FARTHEST NOKTH. 

the month of the creek, Lockwood saw indications of 
coal, and soon after reached the exposed seam of one 
hnndred yards' extent by twenty-five feet depth, dis- 
tant about three fourths of a mile from the sea. This 
coal is said to equal the best of Welsh production. 
Near here, they saw another musk-ox, whose life 
they spared for the time, as they had so much meat 
in store. Lockwood found, and so reported, that, 
though Watercourse Bay had the merit of a near coal- 
mine, and was nearer the grounds of future explora- 
tions, it was not possible to use it at once for the un- 
loading ship without great risk and labor because of 
moving ice. Discovery Harbor, though full of ice 
from sixteen inches to ten feet thick, was perfectly 
landlocked and unobstructed. Ealston preceded the 
party home, killing one musk-ox en route. The Arc- 
tic summer was now at its height, lichen, moss, saxi- 
frage, and various other little red, yellow, and blue 
flowers, bright red moss, and tufts of green grass at 
intervals, breaking the monotony of the somber rocks 
and earth. But the enjoyment of these beauties of 
nature could not then be indulged in, as all hands had 
to take part in unloading the ship, a labor which was 
soon accomplished. 

The next business in order with the explorers was 
to build a house, and they selected a site facing the 
water, fifty feet from, and fifteen feet above it. While 
this work was progressing, the men lived in tents. 

On the 19th of August, all hands were sent ashore, 
and the Proteus started on her return, but, passing too 
near Bellot Island for safety, was caught in the ice and 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 91 

delayed. Lockwood made an effort to follow in her 
wake with the steam-launch, but failed, because of the 
rapid closing in of the great masses of broken ice and 
the wedging of small ice-masses into the screw and 
well. The launch battled manfully with her foe, the 
ice. Frequently he ran her under a full head of steam 
against a massive floe, which would be shivered for 
a few inches, the recoil causing the launch to roll 
and pitch like a little giant. In young ice she would 
sometimes split a sheet for ten or fifteen yards at one 
impact. 

Finding nothing to do while the house-building 
was progressing, Lieutenants Lockwood and Kisling- 
bury occupied themselves with tramping after ptar- 
migans and other game over the mountains whose 
steep sides formed the eastern entrance of the har- 
bor, and the northern boundary. Viewed from the 
house, their sides seemed gradual and their summits 
not over twenty minutes' walk. In fact, however, the 
sides were successions of slopes separated by preci- 
pices, growing greater with the ascent. What below 
seemed the top was only one of many that must be 
passed before the real summit or divide could be at- 
tained. They reached the summit marked by the 
English cairn, and from there viewed the scene below. 
How small the ship appeared ! and yet it seemed as 
though they could throw a stone upon her. They 
reached home with wolfish appetites, but with no 
game. The ptarmigans, which they chiefly sought, 
are provided, at this season, with a coat so nearly 
resembling the shade of the rocks and grounds as to 



92 FARTHEST NORTH. 

be almost indistinguishable. By a happy provision of 
nature, in winter the feathers of this bird become 
white with only a little black about the tail. 

The lieutenants then extended their excursions 
over the mountains on the north side of the harbor, 
availing themselves of a ravine, called the " Black 
Canon, " which leads to a pretty waterfall. Climbing 
out of this canon with difficulty over loose slate and 
other debris, they found themselves on the high back- 
grounds of the North Mountains. Thence moving 
west over loose rock and snow, and through pools of 
water, they finally came in sight of Musk-ox Bay, the 
western extremity of Discovery Harbor. They then 
retraced their steps, reaching home without having 
seen a living object bigger than an humble-bee. 

On the 23d, the house was occupied, though not 
finished. Looking after their supplies, they found 
that the foxes had made free with the carcasses of the 
musk-oxen left near Watercourse Bay. Lockwood now 
proceeded to superintend the laying out of the observ- 
atory, digging for foundation pier of transit, etc. He 
found the ground frozen after reaching thirty inches, 
which may be taken as the depth where perpetual 
frost begins. The ship being still detained, but with 
a prospect of soon getting off, Lockwood wrote more 
letters home in which he expressed an opinion about 
the Proteus. Her chances of departing south were 
doubtful. Detention there for the winter would be 
embarrassing all around, as neither the ship nor her 
crew were prepared to stay, nor the explorers able to 
help them through the winter. 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 93 

Just before her final departure, some difficulty 
arose between Lieutenants Greely and Kislingbury, 
which ended in the latter making a request to be re- 
lieved from duty with the expedition, which request 
was granted. One of the annoyances complained of 
was the rule that officers should rise in the morning 
with the men, and although Lockwood advised Kis- 
lingbury not to make any further trouble, he decided 
to pack up, board the Proteus, and return home. 
In this, however, he was not successful, as the steamer 
got away before he could reach her, and the order for 
his relief was somewhat modified. After explaining 
his action in this matter, Lieutenant Greely remarked 
that, if anything should happen to him, he desired 
that Lieutenant Lockwood should have command of 
the expedition. Lockwood expressed himself as very 
sorry for what his fellow-officer had done, and could 
not understand his course of action. 

As soon as the building was entirely finished, on 
the 27th of August, the explorers found themselves 
very comfortable. The dull, cheerless weather and 
monotonous life were beginning to depress the spirits 
of Lockwood, but he felt that, when settled down to 
regular habits, he would not find the life in the north 
more irksome than that he had experienced on the 
Western plains of the United States. It may be men- 
tioned that the final opening of the house, or govern- 
ment station, was commemorated by the issuing of an 
order from Lieutenant Greely, that the exploring expe- 
dition along the northern coast of Greenland, which 
had been marked out for Lieutenant Kislingbury as 



9£ FARTHEST NORTH. 

senior officer, was to be placed in command of Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood. He now felt that the opportunity 
for doing something creditable, for his own as well as 
his country's reputation, was at hand, and his feelings 
of depression gave way to those of enthusiasm. 

On Sunday, the 28th of August, all work was sus- 
pended, and some appropriate notice was taken of the 
day. Lieutenant Greely read a chapter in the Bible, 
having previously stated that any one would be ex- 
cused from attending the service who had conscien- 
tious scruples. The supply of drinking-water having 
come up as an important question, demanded atten- 
tion. The water was obtained from the ice-hum- 
mocks in the harbor. Pieces of suitable size were 
brought to the house on sledges and then melted in 
a large metallic box near the stove, through which 
and the stove ran a steam-pipe. Thus a liberal sup- 
ply was kept up. 

Wishing to establish a depot on the channel for 
future explorations, Lockwood left with Sergeants 
Brainard and Cross to explore St. Patrick's Bay, lying 
northeast of the station and on the straits. The ground 
being covered with snow, the Government boots were 
soon soaked though, and the feet of the party became 
wet and cold. Following a ravine, they soon reached 
a lake near the summit of the hills in the rear, where 
they saw a musk-ox grazing on the bank. The ani- 
mal fled on seeing them, but stopped farther on. Ap- 
proaching him under cover, Lockwood got a standing 
shot and brought him down. Skinning him and di- 
viding the carcass into quarters, they left the meat for 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 95 

others to carry in and went on their tramp, which took 
them midway between the " hog-back," an elevated 
plateau on the north, and the rugged broken chain of 
mountains which lie between Discovery Harbor and 
Eobeson Channel. About noon they reached St. Pat- 
rick's Bay, but at a point so different from that laid 
down in their maps, that Lockwood felt some doubt as 
to its identity, to settle which, they proceeded to ex- 
plore a wide river-bed, followed by a deep canon, which 
led into the bay near its head. With this view, and to 
see the country to better advantage, they kept north 
along the steep rocky sides of the "hog-back," over 
rocks, great and small, compact and loose, and gener- 
ally covered with snow. After two hours of laborious 
travel, they found themselves high above the river- 
bed and in a position giving them a good view north 
and east. The main stream seemed to come from the 
north, with a branch from the west, the whole through 
lands of the most rugged description. Beyond the 
river to the east, the hills were more sloping, yet rising 
to an immense altitude between the river and the 
channel beyond. It seemed not difficult to descend 
into the bed of the river, walk up its frozen course, 
and, taking advantage of some break in the cliffs a 
few miles up, gain by a gradual ascent the high hills 
beyond, thus obtaining a view of Eobeson Channel. 
The descent, over rocks, stones, and snow, involving 
great fatigue, took two hours. This brought them 
to a level terrace extending from cliffs to cliffs, through 
the center of which ran a deep cut or channel con- 
taining the insignificant stream, the sole occupant of 
5 



96 FARTHEST NORTH. 

this immense cation. They gained the frozen stream 
with difficulty, cut through the ice and got a drink, 
and then regained the level terrace above, and began 
their steep climb up the mountain beyond, through 
a friendly rayine. One hour's work brought them 
to an elevation which, at a distance, had seemed to 
be the main summit, only to find that farther on 
there were still higher points. Finally, at 6 p. m., 
they reached an elevation where the slope seemed to 
be eastward, and from which a magnificent view was 
obtained of the channel from Cape Lieber to Repulse 
Harbor, while directly east of them lay Newman's 
Bay and Polaris Promontory. After erecting a cairn, 
they started back, cold and hungry, satisfied that they 
had seen the true St. Patrick's Bay. 

Regaining the river- valley, they had a most fatigu- 
ing climb to attain the pass through which they had 
come, and where they had killed the musk-ox. Just 
east of the lake, they encountered Dr. Pavy and Bice, 
and soon after Ralston and Lynn, going to Lincoln 
Bay via St. Patrick's Bay. Our party reached home 
at midnight, with frost-bitten feet and empty stom- 
achs, Lockwood finding his stockings full of ice and 
one toe badly frost-bitten. 

He was laid up for a week with frosted feet, and 
had apprehension of losing some of his toes. Al- 
though suffering greatly, he was made especially un- 
happy by the thought of being disabled so early in 
the campaign. Discussing the subject of scurvy with 
Lieutenant Greely, they agreed in regarding the ex- 
plorers much better provided against it, than was the 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 97 

British expedition, in that their dietary list was more 
complete. The English issued fresh beef but once a 
week ; the Greely Expedition three times or oftener. 
This expedition had also the great advantage of a 
dry, warm, well-ventilated house. 

Lockwood's report as to St. Patrick's Bay settling 
that as the place for their first depot, Sergeant Brainard 
with others proceeded to establish the same there by 
means of the whale-boat, moving around Cape Dis- 
tant. Lockwood was much annoyed that his disability 
prevented his being one of those to carry out this 
important feature toward their future explorations. 
He took advantage of his non-active condition to fig- 
ure out a design for an " ice-sledge," which he 
thought would be an improvement on the Hudson 
Bay sledge they had in use. Lieutenant Greely ap- 
proving the plan, he proceeded at once to build one 
by way of experiment. The duty assigned to Brain- 
ard was duly accomplished, and Depot A was estab- 
lished at St. Patrick's Bay. 

Having received a gentle reminder from Lieuten- 
ant Greely for oversleeping himself, Lockwood said 
he could not complain, the offense not being his first 
of the kind. The singular clearness of the atmosphere 
had enabled him to make satisfactory sketches of Cape 
Lieber and other prominent objects in the distance, 
and also of the house. 

Among the events which made the early days of 
September somewhat lively were the following : Gardi- 
ner reported a waif, in the shape of a boat twelve feet 
long and an eight-men sledge, on the shore near Cape 



98 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Murchison. Lieutenant Greely with others, and Lieu- 
tenant Kislingbury as a guest, went upon a two-days' 
trip to the Bellows in search of game and to view the 
land. They were successful in securing ten musk- 
oxen, a dozen or more eider-ducks, and some other 
game. Sergeant Lynn, returning from Cape Beechy, 
reported a wagon and lamp on the shore, left by the 
English. 

Dr. Pavy returned from Lincoln Bay, but Eice, 
taken on the return with severe inflammatory rheuma- 
tism, was left four miles north of St. Patrick's Bay. 
A party was at once sent for his relief, which brought 
him in, in a bad way. Great difficulty was found in 
lifting him up the steep cliffs between the station and 
St. Patrick's Bay. 

Lockwood, having recovered from his injuries, 
went upon an expedition to the Bellows with Gar- 
diner and the Esquimaux Erederick, using an eight- 
dog sledge and carrying rations for four days, con- 
sisting of roasted musk-ox, baked beans, butter and 
sauce, hard bread, and chocolate. They visited Bleak 
Cape, the entrance of the Bellows. The Bellows 
they found to be a long, level valley, walled in by 
lofty hills and cliffs, in some places two or three 
thousand feet high. It bears the impress of having 
been, at some far-distant period, the channel of a 
glacier, its level surface being thickly strewn with 
stones, while there are masses attached like shelves to 
the sides of the cliffs and slopes. Eor twenty miles, 
the valley preserves a width of nearly three miles ; be- 
yond this, it narrows and changes direction toward the 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 99 

west. A small creek runs through its entire length, 
which generally they followed. The route was diffi- 
cult, owing to the large number of stones imperfectly 
covered with snow, and hence all riding ceased after 
they entered the valley ; for the dogs could scarcely 
pull the sledge and its load, and often required aid. 
Here they met a piece of drift-wood, indicating that 
the tide once flowed up the valley, for no tree or 
wood had ever been seen away from tide-water. One 
of the dogs becoming sick was turned adrift, trusting 
to her following the party or returning home. Reach- 
ing " Devil's Head," they went into camp by turning 
up the sledge and hanging rubber blankets around to 
shield them from the cold wind, and then ate a sup- 
per of warmed-up beans and hot chocolate, and tum- 
bled into the sleeping-bags, all of which they found 
most enjoyable. 

After a breakfast of chocolate, hard bread, and 
some frozen cheese, they were delighted to see the sick 
dog rejoin them. The sledge-runners were rapidly 
wearing out, and they concluded to walk to the end 
of the valley, leaving the Esquimaux with the sledge 
and team while they pushed on as best they could. 

Lockwood and Gardiner reached the head of the 
valley at four, and, proceeding up the incline to the 
west where it narrowed to a ravine, went on till they 
came to a narrow gorge — its terminus. Having seen 
all there was to see, and Gardiner complaining of a 
game leg, they retraced their steps, reached the sledge 
at 10 p. m., and at once, supperless, turned into their 
sleeping-bags. Near the terminus of the valley they 



100 FARTHEST NORTH. 

met two musk-oxen, but, haying only their knives 
with them, did not venture on an assault, though the 
animals stood still and quietly gazed at the intruders. 

Beturning, they followed the creek, finding some 
advantage from the ice which had formed during the 
night. Lockwood saw and took back with him a few 
pieces of wood-coal, or very soft coal, evidently of 
recent formation, which had doubtless washed down, 
but whence he knew not. Reaching Bleak Cape, they 
decided to make a detour west to a canon near the 
"Knife-edge," where the musk-oxen were killed by 
Lieutenant Greely and party a few days before ; but no 
musk-ox, dead or alive, was to be seen. Gardiner being 
still lame, Lockwood abandoned some other objects he 
had in view in making this trip, and, striking out di- 
rectly across the bay and riding on the sledge, they 
reached the station without incident. 

Dr. Pavy made an unsuccessful attempt to reach 
an estuary at the head of Lady Franklin Bay, from 
which Lieutenant Greely thought a passage might 
be forced westward to a supposed fiord or sea con- 
nected with the waters leading through Behring 
Strait into the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, find- 
ing Lady Franklin Bay open beyond Stony Point, 
the doctor returned without settling this interesting 
question, which, as will he seen, Lieutenant Lock- 
wood afterward solved. 

Sixteen, or more, large Arctic wolves were seen in 
one day on the ice, a few hundred yards from the 
house. These were the first seen by them ; the Eng- 
lish saw none here, nor do Kane, Hayes, or Hall 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 101 

mention them. These wolves are large, strong, fierce- 
looking beasts, perfectly white in color, and anything 
but desirable customers to meet. 

Lieutenant Greely, and Sergeants Brainard, Ben- 
der, and Connell, left on an exploration above and 
beyond "North Valley," a deep canon cutting 
through the " hog's back " north of the station. They 
left without sledges, carrying six days' rations, sleep- 
ing-bags, etc. Following the "North Valley" up- 
ward, and leaving it near its head, they soon found 
themselves in a water-course running toward St. Pat- 
rick's Bay. Turning westward, and going some dis- 
tance, they came in sight of what they regarded as 
the United States Range ; but, a heavy snow-storm 
coming on, they cut short the trip after traveling 
twenty-five miles, and returned. It was deemed un- 
fortunate that the untoward weather prevented their 
getting a good view from that range. The absence of 
glaciers and large water-courses, the low altitude of 
the range, and many other features in that region, all 
seemed to indicate a large sea not far to the westward. 

The building of Lockwood's sledge turned out a 
failure, for the want of proper appliances. 

On the 17th of September, the party celebrated 
Whistler's birthday by a dinner of his own selection 
— oyster soup, roast musk-ox, potatoes, corn, pear- 
butter, cake, etc., and a glass of grog in the evening. 
Two-story bunks were built for the men, giving more 
room. The Signal-Service men — the observers — had 
a little corner partitioned off, where they were to sleep 
and work. Another corner was fitted as a wash-room, 



102 FARTHEST NORTH. 

where warm water might be had, and where there 
was a bath-tub, which all were expected to use every 
week. Other arrangements had been provided pro- 
ductive of comfort and health. Lock wood's time was 
now chiefly occupied in drawing maps, making fin- 
ished drawings from sketches, reading, and sledge- 
work. 

Dr. Pavy, with a party, went to take provisions to 
the depots, but failed to get round Cape Murchison. 
Not satisfying Lieutenant Greely, the latter himself 
undertook the task, and, after considerable difficulty, 
in which the sledge broke down, succeeded. On the 
21st the sun presented a remarkable appearance, hav- 
ing rainbows to the right and left, which nearly joined 
above; also radiating vertical and horizontal beams of 
light. 

Lieutenant Kislingbury, after many futile efforts 
with arsenic, succeeded in poisoning many wolves with 
strychnine. Five of them bit the dust at one time, 
and by this means the party was able to get rid of 
these dangerous neighbors. This animal, as stated, 
is perfectly white, and is not unlike the Esquimaux 
dog, but larger and more formidable. 
i On the 24th of September, Lockwood started on 
a trip to Cape Beechy with Ellis, Fredericks, Kal- 
ston, Biederbick, and one large sledge, to provision 
Depot "A," distant twenty miles. They started with 
two hundred and fifty pounds on the sledge, intending 
to take on other food left near Cape Distant. Their 
passage around this cape was accomplished only after 
cutting away masses of ice. Beyond this, and with 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 103 

their load increased to three hundred and fifty pounds, 
they struck masses of rocks oyer which the sledge and 
load had to be lifted. There they left the photograph 
apparatus for Kice, and took lunch. Afterward they 
passed Watercourse Bay, and the English wagon lying 
on the shore, and halted for the night at 6 p. m. at Cape 
Murchison, without any remonstrance on the part of 
the tired-out men, notwithstanding some of them, 
about noon, had proposed going on to Cape Beechy 
without a stop. Indeed, Lockwood observed anxious 
faces among them when he hesitated about stopping. 
Eloe-bergs of every form and shape — square, oblong, 
round, and pyramidal — from ten to forty feet high, 
were scattered along the shore. Without the barrier 
afforded by these, the floating floe, moving with the 
noise of railroad-trains, would cut away the foot-ice 
and render travel impossible. Using the tent at Depot 
" A," and the bedding, etc., there, they got supper 
over the spirit-lamp and crawled into their sleeping- 
bags. The cold, cramped position, and dropping of 
congealed moisture from the tent, robbed them of 
sleep ; hence they rose at 5. 20, little refreshed. Beau- 
tiful "sun-dogs" were noticed with the rising of the 
sun across the strait. Toward noon similar appear- 
ances, peculiar to the Arctic sun, were still more re- 
markable — rainbows on either side, and joined above 
the sun, while vertical and horizontal beams of white 
light pierced the sun. They passed St. Patrick's Bay, 
and, after a hard and cold day's work, reached Depot 
" B," south of Mount Bufort and a little farther south 
of Cape Beechy, at 3 p. m., the 25th. On the fol- 



104 FARTHEST NORTH. 

lowing day, dragging an empty sledge, they returned 
to the cache at St. Patrick's Bay, loaded up with three 
hundred and fifty pounds, and returned to Depot 
" B," tired, cold, and wet with perspiration, this last 
being, perhaps, the greatest obstacle to Arctic travel. 
The great exertion soon induces perspiration, which 
being checked when labor ceases, you are at once sen- 
sible of cold water and ice at the same time. It was 
rare to have anything entirely dry after the first day 
of work. The sole resource was to use the heat of 
the body in the sleeping-bags at night. Mittens and 
socks were the most important to keep dry, and the 
most difficult. Their lamps being imperfect, they 
found a difficulty in preparing their chocolate. The 
alcohol took fire below and filled the tent with fumes 
quite as unpleasant as the cold. Having left their 
tin plates behind, they had to eat from one dish. 
Eating was simply cramming, that their benumbed 
fingers might give up the cold spoons and return to 
the warm pockets. Yet with all these discomforts they 
ate heartily, and with appetites unknown elsewhere 
than in the Arctic regions; and, notwithstanding 
dirt, cold, and alcoholic fumes, they had their jokes 
and songs while lying in their sleeping-bags, trying to 
keep warm and get to sleep. But their ills did not 
end there, for whenever the canvas was shaken, frost- 
like snow — condensed vapor — fell upon them, which 
melted with the lighting of the lamp in the morning. 
Truly, this was a rough, road to glory and fame ! 

Two of the men, in consequence of the crowded 
tent, had to sleep outside with the thermometer at 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 105 

—15°, and left without breakfast, to return to the 
station. The party soon followed them, and, after 
stopping at St. Patrick's Bay to take on a log of drift- 
wood observed there, which gaye them an additional 
pull of five miles, reached the station long after dark. 
Having taken something to eat and drink, they got 
into their warm and dry beds, which never felt more 
comfortable. 

The next man to command a party was Dr. Pavy, 
who had in view a long-projected trip to Cape Joseph 
Henry, with the object of carrying out the wishes of 
the Navy Department, that a search should be made 
there for the Jeannette, and a signal placed indicat- 
ing that help was near at hand ; another object was 
to establish a depot for spring operations. His force 
consisted of the Esquimaux Jans, Whistler, and two 
dog-teams. His "constant weight" was two hundred 
pounds, and he took rations for twenty days. He 
counted upon other rations at Lincoln Bay left by the 
English, and those nearer home left by Greely's men 
at Depot "B," near Cape Beechy. He hoped with 
these to establish a depot near the place where the 
Alert had her winter quarters, and thus be ready in 
the spring to surpass Markham. Lockwood was in- 
clined to think the doctor a little too anxious to re- 
tain personal comfort while exploring, to accomplish 
much. He had been convinced that sledge-journeys 
of any considerable extent in those high latitudes 
could be made only by the sacrifice of every personal 
comfort. 

On the 2d of October, there was a remarkable and 



106 FARTHEST NORTH. 

beautiful sunset. The lower part of the picture was 
formed by the clear white ice of the harbor westward. 
Then came the distant mountains, whose snow-capped 
summits reached into a sky of beautiful green ; above, 
a line of gold, and then blue and gold alternating, and 
finally the deep-blue vault studded with masses of red 
— on the whole a most gorgeous spectacle. 

Finding this inactive life monotonous, Lockwood 
started on an exploration of the streams which enter 
St. Patrick's Bay from the north. Lynn, Bender, 
Saler, Henry, and himself constituted the party, and 
they proposed going by way of the gap through 
the mountains rather than around Distant Cape. 
They had not gone far before they regretted having 
taken this short cut, for they found the way exceed- 
ingly laborious from want of snow — so much so, that 
they were six hours in reaching the steep, rocky bluffs 
which overlook St. Patrick's Bay and the valley at 
the north of it, and they were two more before reach- 
ing the level of the bay. Indeed, this was only at- 
tained by carrying their load piece by piece down the 
cliffs and letting the sledge down by ropes. Here 
they put up their tent and went into camp. Unfor- 
tunately, they had neglected to bring candles, and 
hence had to eat their meal in darkness. Lockwood 
and Saler occupied one sleeping-bag, while the others 
were in another. They passed the night cold and 
sleepless. There being a birthday dinner at the sta- 
tion, they had intended to walk back to it, a distance 
of seven miles, but, on account of the condition of 
the way, abandoned the idea. 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 107 

Getting off at an early hour after a cold breakfast, 
and reaching the bed of the water-course, they made 
their way oyer its stony bed, so lightly covered with 
snow as to rapidly grind away the sledge-runners, up 
the canon, as grand as the stream was insignificant. 
Finding their progress so much impeded, they left the 
sledge behind and made their way without it. The 
cold being intense, to keep up circulation they walked 
rapidly, but suffered greatly in their feet and hands. 
Having volunteered for this expedition, they were 
ashamed to give it up, though often disposed to do 
so. Thus, for three tiresome hours, they kept on 
their way, either following the bed of the stream, or 
along the mesa-like formations, which projected like 
shelves from the mountain-sides. Finally, the valley 
and mesas alike disappearing, the stream entered a 
narrow gorge. Gaining an eminence, the further 
course of the stream was indicated to them, and its 
probable terminus in table-lands of great elevation 
seen in the distance. Eeturning by the bed of the 
stream until the valley had attained a width of half 
a mile, they entered from the west a very picturesque 
canon thirty feet wide with walls one hundred feet 
high. Its walls were worn smooth, as though by the 
action of ice, and there were small, basin-shaped holes 
apparently made by bowlders caught by glaciers. They 
also met with blocks of quartz much larger than could 
possibly be moved by the force of any body of water 
now passing through the canon. Notwithstanding 
their exhausted condition, and the worn state of their 
foot-gear from the numerous stones and rough ice 



108 FARTHEST NORTH. 

they had passed oyer, they concluded not to spend the 
night where they had left the sledge, but to go on to 
Depot " A," near Cape Murchison. Adding their out- 
fit to that of the depot, they had a night of less dis- 
comfort than usual. On passing Cape Distant, they 
noticed a broad channel of open water in the strait, 
preventing any passage at that time. 

On reaching the station, they found that the tem- 
perature had been —16°, and it was probably 4° lower 
where they had been. Lieutenant Greely was put- 
ting in order a variety of reading-matter for the men. 
Sergeant Brainard was absent at the Bellows, with 
Rice and Bender, after musk-ox meat. They returned 
later, badly frosted, but brought the meat to within 
easy sledging distance. 

The 7th of October, being Mrs. Greely's birthday, 
was celebrated with a dinner made regal by the follow- 
ing-named dishes : gumbo-soup, biscuits, old sherry, 
Columbia River salmon with sauce sauterne, boiled 
ham, asparagus, sago, corn, lima-beans, cold bread, 
chocolate cake, strawberry and pineapple ice-cream, 
dates, figs, grapes, prunes, candied fruits, coffee, and 
Benedictine. 

In Payer's "History of the Austrian Expedition to 
Franz-Josef Land," Lockwood found much of inter- 
est in connection with the requirements for a sledge- 
journey — details of clothing and other matters best 
suited to fit one to stand the cold. The book he con- 
sidered of great value to any novice in Arctic sledg- 
ing. He supposed that they themselves were much 
better off than any expedition that had wintered with- 



HOUSE-BUILDING AND LOCAL EXPLORATIONS. 109 

in the Arctic Circle. The most serious difficulties — 
dampness, want of ventilation, and darkness — were 
reduced with them to a minimum, while of fresh 
meat, anti-scorbutics, and fuel they had an abun- 
dance ; and if their assortment of clothing — particu- 
larly foot-gear — had been better, they would haye had 
nothing to desire. 

Besides the large stock of coal left by the Proteus, 
they had the coal-mine within ten miles. The men 
seemed comfortable and contented. They had a bath- 
room and bath-tub, with hot and cold water ready at 
hand, and books and periodicals in abundance. Their 
heating arrangements were generally perfect and quite 
effectual. The light from the sun amounted to little, 
and artificial light within-doors was required all day ; 
but with a full moon, bright sky, and everything cov- 
ered with snow, they had a flood of light almost an 
equivalent. They had musk-ox meat almost every 
day, and a large store on hand. They also had a large 
supply of the best pork, lime-juice, cider, sour-krout, 
pickles, onions and cucumbers mixed, and other anti- 
scorbutics . The men were comfortable, seemed happy 
and cheerful, and found many sources of amusement 
— among others, from an anti-swearing society. De- 
linquents were fined five cents each, the proceeds to 
pay for a grand dinner on returning to the United 
States. Several members incurred such enormous 
fines as to become bankrupt, and were expelled. 
These outcasts lay around and beguiled the unwary, 
thus affording amusement to all except the victim. 
Eice and Israel had a way of carrying on ridiculous 



HO FARTHEST NORTH. 

discussions. One evening they had an apparently- 
angry dialogue, in which Eice personated a tipsy 
lodger complaining of the fare and demanding his 
bill, and Israel, an insulted landlord. Both seemed 
entirely in earnest, and kept their countenances amid 
roars of laughter and gibes from the men. 



IX. 

PKELIMINAKY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS AND 
LIFE AT THE STATION. 

Amokg the amusements which helped to kill time 
at the station of Discovery Harbor, officially called 
Fort Conger, was that of celebrating certain birth- 
days, and this chapter begins with what was done 
when Lieutenant Lockwood attained his twenty-ninth 
year. He confessed that he did not wish a "happy 
return of the day " in the Arctic regions, and yet he 
would be contented if they should all be as pleasant as 
the one just experienced, in spite of the cold winds, 
ice, snow, darkness, and anticipations of exposure and 
fatigue when his spring travels should begin. He 
spent most of the day in sewing canvas leggings to 
his moccasins and altering his trousers, while Lieu- 
tenant Greely entertained him with recollections of 
his army experience during the rebellion, righting his 
battles over again. His birthday dinner was some- 
thing quite formidable, consisting of : 

Pea soup a la Proteus, 

Scalloped oysters a la Eastern Shore, 

Deviled crabs a la Chesapeake, 

Musk-ox a la Franklin Bay, 



112 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Potatoes a 1'Irlandaise, 
Macaroni a lTtalienne, 
Rice and curry a la Pacific Mail, 
Blanc-mange, fruits, nuts, cake, ice-cream, 
and black coffee. 
Lieutenant Greely kindly added, from private 
stores, some very good California port wine. Lock- 
wood's reflections, however, carried him to his dis- 
tant home, and he longed to know that all there were 
well — that his dear parents and sisters were happy as 
when he was with them ! Perhaps, even at that hour, 
their thoughts and words were of him. On this day, 
as frequently on his sledging journeys, he pictured to 
himself the family circle in the far-off home. The 
cold, fatigue, and monotony attending him and his 
companions were rendered endurable by thus break- 
ing away from the present. 

On the morning of the 10th of October, Lockwood 
started on a trip with Jewell across Lady Franklin 
Bay for Cape Baird. Had no difficulty for a mile or 
two beyond Dutch Island, but mist and fog then ob- 
scuring their way and blotting out the landscape, they 
kept on their course by compass. Soon they encoun- 
tered heavy snow-drifts and many floe-bergs and fields 
of rubble-ice, all unfavorable for sledging. Fortu- 
nately, they had only themselves to transport. Though 
the weather was cold, they soon found themselves op- 
pressively warm from the labor attending the journey. 
Profiting by past experience, Lockwood had this time 
come out warmly dressed — viz., with two flannel shirts, 
a woolen jersey, an under-shirt of light buckskin, 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. H3 

heavy woolen drawers, a seal-skin over-all, and two 
pairs of socks under light buckskin moccasins. He 
then became convinced, that it was quite as great a 
mistake to wear too much as too little clothing. Even 
when they could ride on the sledge, which was not 
often, there were numerous bad places where they had 
to run with the dogs and lift the sledge over obstacles. 
Trying to avoid the moving ice, they struck too far 
westward, so that when they approached land they 
found themselves some two miles within the cape for 
which they had started. Stopping only to take a bite 
of crackers and meat, they started to retrace their 
steps, but not before daylight had left them, and they 
had only the moon to show them the way. After 
some time they thought to reduce the distance by 
taking what they supposed was a short cut, but soon 
found themselves scrambling over hummocky ice of 
the most formidable character. They regained their 
track, but not till overcome by thirst and fatigue. 
Eesting at short intervals, they finally came in sight 
of Dutch Island, and soon afterward were gladdened 
by the sound of distant shouts. Dr. Pavy and Ser- 
geants Brainard and Oonnell had come out to meet 
them, and not empty-handed, for they bore a bag 
of hot coffee, and never did coffee taste more de- 
licious. Though the mercury was nearly nine de- 
grees below zero, when they reached the house every- 
thing they had on was as wet as if they had fallen 
overboard. 

The result of that reconnaissance was that they de- 
cided to establish a " depot" near Cape Baird, which 



114 FARTHEST NORTH. 

labor was duly carried out by Lockwood, Ellis, Saler, 
and Bender. The weather being open, they start- 
ed directly for Cape Baird, but, finding that route 
impracticable, inclined westward and got into their 
old track. After much delay and great labor, they 
reached a point on the farther side, where they 
found it necessary to encamp for the night. The 
tent was pitched, chocolate boiled, and beans thawed 
out, after which they crawled into their sleeping-bags, 
trying to forget, if possible, that the thermometer 
stood at —-24° without. Eesuming their journey, but 
now with the discomfort of wind added to intense 
cold, they made their way ashore, established the 
depot of provisions, and with lightened sledges and 
hearts retraced their steps. Noses were frozen during 
the day, and only restored by friction, which made 
them raw and uncomfortable. Very soon after start- 
ing back, twilight disappeared, and they had only the 
moon to light them on their way. Passing the rest- 
ing-place of the previous night, they concluded to 
make the journey to the house without stopping. 
They stumbled on in the dark, a used-up party, 
Lockwood having a sprained tendon Achilles, and 
also a lame back. The air becoming calm, they 
were enabled to stop sometimes and rest, which they 
could not have safely done in their perspiring condi- 
tion had the wind been blowing. When near Dutch 
Island, Dr. Pavy and Lieutenant Kislingbury met 
them with hot coffee, which so much refreshed them 
that the rest of the journey seemed easy, although it 
was probable that Lockwood's raw red nose, frosted 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. 115 

toes, lame back, and tender heel, would be reminders 
of this trip for a long time. 

On the 16th of October the sun disappeared, to 
rise no more until February. "With the mercury rang- 
ing from —28° to —40°, Lockwood amused himself 
by scraping off: the accumulated condensation of moist- 
ure from the room on the window-panes near his cor- 
ner, the ice being one inch thick. 

About this time Lockwood took up a course of 
Arctic literature, with which they were liberally sup- 
plied. This was chiefly in yiew of his sledge-journey 
in the coming spring. Feeling the need of exercise, 
he left the station on the 23d for Depot "B," Cape 
Beechy, with Brainard, Connell, and the Esquimaux 
Frederick, and a sledge with eight dogs. At Depot 
" A" they took on a small stoye and a bag of coal 
from the mines, and thereby the tent at Depot " B " 
became more comfortable than anything they had ex- 
perienced away from the station ; notwithstanding, 
they had a comfortless night, as the crowded condi- 
tion of the tent compelled some of them to lie so near 
the stoye as to endanger their safety. Lockwood woke 
up to find a large hole burned in his blanket. After- 
ward, the fire going out, they suffered more than 
when they had had no fire at all. They erected a 
snow-house for a depot here, forming the sides of 
tough blocks of compact snow, and covering it with 
the boat-sail supported by oars, and, by imitating the 
natives in some particulars, had a house impervious 
to cold. 

While there, Lockwood, with Brainard, ascended 



116 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Mount Bufort, near at hand, and had an uninter- 
rupted view of the straits as far down as Cape Lieber, 
and of the opposite coasfc, between which and them 
hung water-clouds, indicating open water. This fact 
was also indicated by the roar, like a moving railroad- 
train, made by the crushing of the ice in the current. 
Haying passed another night in their warm snow- 
house, they made their way next day to the station 
in less than five hours, and found all hands there en- 
gaged in erecting an ice wall around the house as 
high as the eaves, and filling in with snow. This 
proved most effectual in keeping the house warm. 

Lieutenant Greely had an uncomfortable experi- 
ence while assisting to make a tide-gauge. He fell 
in and got a ducking — not his first experience in that 
direction. Wolves were daily seen near the house, 
and were so bold and fearless that the men deemed it 
prudent never to leave the building without fire-arms ; 
for, as the animals were of the same color as the snow, 
they could not be easily distinguished. 

On the 29th, a singular aurora made its appear- 
ance, consisting of a ribbon of white light a degree 
wide, stretching through the zenith from north to 
south ; then another arch, 10° westward, whose 
base touched the first ; and still another, also passing 
through the zenith, and cutting the others at right 
angles. 

On the 80th, Lockwood commenced preparations 
for a preliminary journey to Hall's winter quarters, 
whenever the straits could be crossed and the weather 
and light were suitable. Among other things, the 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. H7 

saddler, Fredericks, made a tent to hold eight men, 
using to that end two common " A" tents. 

About this time, while cogitating on his room and 
room-mates, Lockwood said : " Surely this is a happy- 
quartet occupying this room ! "We often sit silent dur- 
ing the whole day, and even a meal fails to elicit any- 
thing more than a chance remark or two. A charm- 
ing prospect for four months of darkness, such gloom 
within, and penned up as we are in one room ! I have 
doubts of getting over the straits, but I must be off as 
soon as possible, for I find a relief in getting away." 

Lieutenant Greely had felt himself compelled to 
show his dissatisfaction with Dr. Pavy's explorations, 
or rather attempted explorations. He and the doctor 
had also adverse views as to how explorations should 
be made. The doctor wanted to take along many 
creature comforts, while Greely thought, with Lock- 
wood, that nothing could be accomplished without 
sacrificing all beyond bare necessities. 

Having everything complete, Lockwood started on 
the 1st of November to try the passage of the straits, 
with Brainard, Lynn, Saler, Biederbick, Ellis, Fred- 
ericks, and Connell, dragging an eight-man sledge, 
weighing, with load, one thousand pounds. They 
left sledge and load beyond Cape Distant, and re- 
turned to lodge at the house, where all hands fortified 
themselves with a first-class dinner, preparatory to 
the labors of the next day. 

They got off early, but, owing to the limited light 
and other difficulties, found themselves some distance 
from the snow-house near Cape Beechy when dark- 



118 FARTHEST NORTE. 

ness overtook them. Having all in readiness on the 
4th, they again got off, leaving Ellis at the snow- 
house with an injured foot. This was unfortunate, 
as he was a strong, willing fellow, with lots of pluck. 
The prospects of crossing the straits at this time were 
not encouraging, both from the short duration of light 
and from the open waters. Still, they determined to 
make the effort. This they first did with the whale- 
boat, which they had picked up on their route. They 
mounted it on the sledge, but soon found they could 
not drag so heavy a body, and returned to the snow- 
house. Rice, whom they found there, was then sent 
with a dog-sledge to bring up a small boat from Cape 
Murchison. Dr. Pavy, Lieutenant Kislingbury, and 
Jans coming along en route for another attempt north- 
ward, were surprised to see how comfortable they were 
in the snow-house. 

After extensive repairs to the small boat, they again 
got off at noon, seven men and Lockwood himself drag- 
ging the sledge, on which were the boat and one hun- 
dred and fourteen pounds of rations. On reaching 
open water, three only were to proceed in the boat, 
the others to fall back on the snow-house. They got 
along pretty well until they came to the hummocks, 
through which, with extreme labor, and frequently 
using an axe, they made their way, till they heard, in 
the distance toward Polaris Promontory, the roar of 
the grinding ice, indicating open water. Moving on 
ahead of the party over very rough ice, and crossing 
some wet, slushy ice fifteen or twenty yards wide, 
Lockwood found himself on a level floe. He had 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. H9 

gone only a short distance over this toward a dark 
streak beyond, which he took for open water, when 
he found that the floe upon which he stood was in mo- 
tion. Eetreating over the bed of slushy ice, he found 
this to be really only a thick mass of broken pieces in- 
termediate between the moving floe and the firm ice. 
He could readily thrust his ice-hook down through it 
to the water beneath, and did so. Eeaching the sledge- 
party, and viewing the difficulties of the situation, he 
decided, all agreeing, on the impracticability of cross- 
ing at this season. They accordingly displayed signal- 
torches from the top of an iceberg, as agreed upon, 
that Lieutenant Greely might know that they had 
found the crossing dangerous and had abandoned the 
effort. They returned in darkness, and with consid- 
erable difficulty, guided somewhat by a signal-torch 
displayed by Ellis at the snow-house. They remained 
all day at the snow-house, which the men found so 
comfortable that they preferred it to the restraints of 
the station. At noon Lockwood and Brainard went 
upon a tramp, and found the condition of the open 
water to be such as to demonstrate the wisdom of their 
return the evening before. The men made some ad- 
ditions to the snow-house, which were regarded as a 
great success. The return to the station on the 7th 
was attended with more difficulty and labor than had 
been expected, arising from a strong south wind hav- 
ing worn away the foot-ice, and the small amount of 
light ; hence, they soon had wet feet, which in that 
region always means frost-bitten feet. So much were 

some of the men used up by this journey of twenty 
6 



120 FAETHEST NORTH. 

miles, which had before been made in one day, that 
they had to be conveyed on the sledge, and did not 
reach the station till the third day. At Dutch Island 
they met Whistler, who, missing Biederbick at the 
ropes and seeing a human form on the sledge, came 
to the conclusion that Biederbick was dead, and re- 
peatedly exclaimed, "Poor Biederbick! poor Bieder- 
bick!" 

During a period of dullness at the station, Eice 
and Henry projected a newspaper, to be called the 
"Arctic Moon," and Lockwood, to whom, also, the 
idea had occurred, agreed to join them as one of the 
editors. They wanted something to dispel the mo- 
notony which was depressing all hands, as all were 
tired of reading, of cards and other games, while two 
of Lockwood's room-mates were gloomy and taciturn. 
To counteract this, he resumed his reading, especially 
history and travels — anything but novels. Kane's 
work interested him especially, and he considered 
him a remarkable man, courageous, energetic, and de- 
termined. Their own manner of life just then re- 
minded Lockwood of a rainy day in the country in- 
tensified. "Yet," says he, " why not be contented? 
Books and leisure afford an opportunity for reading 
and studying which we may never have again. We 
have a warm, comfortable house, plenty of food, and 
other things which many are without. Life in this 
world is just what one chooses to make it. Man can 
make of it a heaven or a hell." He felt anxious as to 
the effect of one hundred and thirty sunless days upon 
himself and men, as this might tell on their sledging 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. 121 

in the coming spring. Nares's people broke down 
under it, and, when sledging, were decimated by the 
scurvy. They themselves were fortunate so far in not 
having had a single man sick enough to keep his bed. 

True to his intellectual instincts, Lockwood formed 
a class in geography and grammar, consisting of Elli- 
son, Bender, Connell, and Whistler, while Lieutenant 
Greely taught them arithmetic. On the 22d of No- 
vember appeared, with a nourish of trumpets, the first 
number of the "Arctic Moon." Of course the editors 
thought it a great success. It had for the frontispiece 
a sketch of the house, drawn by Lockwood, while Eice 
made fair copies of the paper by the hectograph pro- 
cess — enough for all, and many to spare. 

These trifles served to shorten, apparently, the 
many hours of gloom and darkness, which were wear- 
ing away the spirits of all. The men were now far 
less hilarious than they had been, and, with the game 
of chess to assist, silence reigned supreme. 

Thanksgiving - day, with its games, sports, and 
dinner, gave them a pleasant variety. First, came 
the snow-shoe race of one hundred yards, Brainard, 
victor. Next, the foot-race, with many contestants, 
but Ellis coming out ahead. Then the dog-team race 
to Dutch Island and return, under the Esquimaux 
Jans and Frederick, the latter, victor. And, finally, 
a shooting-match, necessarily at short range, and with 
torches, Henry, victor. These and other out-door 
exercises were followed by the grand feature of the 
day, the Thanksgiving dinner, and not a poor one 
either, even for a lower latitude than eighty- two de- 



122 FARTHEST NORTH. 

grees. In the evening Lieutenant G-reely gaye out 
prizes to the victors and second best, Eice acting as 
master of ceremonies, rigged out in swallow-tail coat, 
black pantaloons, white vest, and "boiled" shirt. The 
mercury froze on that day, and Lieutenant Greely 
brought in a teacupful, which looked like lead as it 
comes from the mold. The moon also made its ap- 
pearance, and all fully appreciated the blessing of this 
luminary. 

"What a change," exclaimed Lockwood, "when 
she comes forth in all her beauty and loveliness, 
flooding the landscape with her refulgent beams and 
cheering the drooping spirits of benighted mortals ! 
Even the poor dogs feel her influence ! " On the 
1st of December, they had an almost total eclipse of 
the moon, more remarkable there than an eclipse of 
the sun elsewhere. During the phenomenon, the ex- 
posed part of the disk was of a dull-red color. Lock- 
wood took the altitude of the moon while crossing: 
the meridian, using a saucer of molasses as an arti- 
ficial horizon. She flooded the whole region with a 
light, electric in appearance, and causing deep shad- 
ows. In the evening they were treated to a display of 
mock moons, with a circular band of bright light con- 
necting them, and several bands or ribbons of light at 
various angles, but all passing through the moon. 

The Esquimaux, Jans and Frederick, having of 
late been much depressed, efforts were made by kind- 
ly attentions on the part of Lieutenant Greely and 
others to dispel their gloom and assure them of the 
friendly feeling entertained toward them by all. 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. 123 

These good offices, however, all failed. Dr. Payy said 
this state of mind was not infrequent among the natives 
of lower Greenland, and often resulted in the wander- 
ing off of the subjects of it, and, if not followed, by 
their perishing in the cold. One morning Jans was 
missing, and at once his tracks were followed by Dr. 
Pavy, Brainard, Rice, and Whistler, with the dog- 
sledge. Late in the afternoon they returned with 
poor Jans, who was found nine miles away, follow- 
ing at a rapid pace the ice-foot around Cape Murchi- 
son. He returned unwillingly, and gave no reason 
for his strange conduct. Rice and Whistler were both 
rendered hors de combat by the journey, the former 
by a fall from an ice-hummock, the latter by conges- 
tion of the brain owing to having shaved before go- 
ing out. Both Dr. Kane and Dr. Rink (in his book 
on Greenland) refer to hallucinations similar to that 
of Jans, and the frequent fatal consequences. 

On the 14th of December appeared the second 
number of the "Arctic Moon," which was thought 
to be an improvement on number one, and was well 
received. Lieutenant Greely gave a lecture on the 
" Polar Question." 

On the same day also, Esquimaux Frederick came 
to Lieutenant Greely and asked permission to leave 
the station, and, when asked why, said some one was 
going to shoot him — a strange hallucination ! 

On the 20th Lockwood writes : " The sun now be- 
gins his journey to the north ; the backbone of the 
winter is broken ! Walking out at noon to-day, I was 
just able to see the hands of my watch by holding it 



124 FARTHEST NORTH. 

close to my eye. The profound silence of this region 
is quite as striking, and almost as disagreeable, as the 
darkness. Standing still, one can almost hear his heart 
beat. The sense of solitude is sublime." Speaking of 
Arctic literature, he says that "Hayes' book, though 
beautifully written, is far below that of Kane as to 
information and reliability. "No one who has been 
up Smith's Sound can fail to notice this." 

On the 24th of December, after eating a birthday 
dinner, the Christmas presents from an unknown 
friend to every one of the party, were distributed. 
The rooms were appropriately decorated, and every- 
thing was done to render the occasion cheerful and 
pleasant. Those articles not specifically assigned by 
the donor were disposed of by lottery. 

Lockwood indulged in the following reflections : 
" How suggestive of home and of the dear ones 
there ! How often do my thoughts wander away to 
them ! Has Providence been equally kind to them 
as to me ? The day with me suggests alternately 
the past and the future. Will next Christmas find 
me here, with everything around as auspicious as 
now, and shall I then be able to look back with satis- 
faction and self-complacency on my labors along the 
Greenland coast ? Or will the future bring a record 
of dreams unsatisfied, of efforts unproductive, of labor 
in vain ? My mind is far away with that group at 
home assembled together and doubtless regretting that 
the absent one is not of their number. Could I but 
see them for an hour, or know that all is well with 
them, I should rejoice, indeed ! " 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. 125 

The "Lime-Juice Club" gave an entertainment 
on the same evening, at which Snyder affected Jans 
to tears by his personation of an Esquimaux lady, 
and Oonnell brought down the house as a martinet 
captain, by exclaiming, when a soldier who had shot 
himself was brought in: "Very sad affair, very sad, 
indeed ! Charge him with two cartridges expended, 
Sergeant." 

Lieutenant Greely also gave the party as a lecture, 
" Eeminiscences of the Battle of Fredericksburg," 
which was interesting and two hours long, though 
entirely ex tempore ; and Lockwood was announced 
to lecture on "Arctic Sledging." 

On the 31st, rations of rum were issued to help the 
men welcome in the new year. They were also to fire 
a salute with rifles. Fiddles were in full blast, with 
singing and other marks of hilarity. 

Loekwood's lecture on "Arctic Sledging" was 
given January 3, 1882, and was well received. Being 
confirmed in his opinion that he was no public speak- 
er, he intended to leave lecturing for others there- 
after. On the 9th he took his usual walk, notwith- 
standing the thermometer was at 60° below zero, and 
felt the cold chiefly on his nose. It seemed curious 
to him, that when the thermometer was lowest, the 
air was stillest. Were it otherwise, he supposed ex- 
istence in the Arctic would be an impossibility. 

But severe as was the weather, it did not deter 
him from the study of science, as will be seen by the 
following record, made on the 9th of January : "I 
have been looking up the subject of nautical astrono- 



126 FARTHEST NORTH. 

my for some time past, and to-day and this even- 
ing, taking sextant, mercury, etc., and establishing 
an observatory on top of an old barrel in front of 
the house, commenced observations on the transit of 
Markab, Capella, and other stars, but have not been 
very successful. Everything conspires against one in 
this climate. It reminds me of my observations last 
spring. However, I hope by dint of practice to do 
better. The winter is passing away slowly but surely. 
The time is coming when I shall look at these stars 
from grassy fields, on a summer night, in the temper- 
ate zone, I hope. The stars up here are very bright, 
and a great many of them circle around the pole and 
never set. It is a beautiful sight. Arcturus, Aldeba- 
ran, and others, besides being very bright, show dif- 
ferent colors, red, violet, and green. Jupiter looks 
immense." 

Still absorbed with his astronomical studies, he 
gives us the following on the 13th of the same month : 
" The moon appeared after noon. How welcome she 
is ! How a poet would rave over the moon could he 
once experience a polar winter ! — not simply an Arctic 
winter, for anywhere north of the Arctic Circle is the 
Arctic, and the dark days which most expeditions 
have seen are trifling compared with ours. I think it 
would be a good idea to exile a first-class poet into 
these regions for the purpose, but give him to un- 
derstand he was never to return. How he would 
sing ! " 

On the 12th, they had a phenomenon they had nev- 
er heard of — the precipitation of vapor with a per- 



PKELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. 127 

fectly clear sky. It resembled a heavy mist or light 
rain. 

On the 16th occurred the first hurricane of the 
season. It began in the morning with heavy south 
wind and sudden fall of barometer. At noon the 
wind whipped round to the northeast and blew with 
indescribable fury, filling the air with snow-drifts, and 
blotting out the view of everything even a few feet 
distant. The anemometer registered sixty-five miles, 
and then broke down. The noise of the storm, as 
heard from the house, was as though on shipboard. It 
must have given way but for the ice walls around it. 

On the 20th, Lieutenant Greely issued a circular 
letter, calling attention to the order that all should 
be up for breakfast. Kislingbury and Dr. Pavy took 
exceptions to this, and the latter declined to lecture 
in his turn. 

The next evening occurred a beautiful and unique 
auroral display, the chief features of which were many 
broad bands of pure white passing through the zenith 
and reaching to the east and to the west horizon, 
which blended, twisted, and curled in upon each oth- 
er in a very remarkable manner. The spectacle was 
viewed with wonder and amazement. 

On the 26th, the twilight at noonday was quite 
bright. The moon also lent her aid ; but low spirits 
and a sense of oppression and homesickness prevailed, 
all induced, doubtless, by want of exercise, and loneli- 
ness. 

" Another twenty-four hours," wrote Lockwood, 
on the 6th of February, " of this interminable night 



128 FARTHEST NORTH. 

nearly gone ! Thank God ! Sometimes it seems as if 
this life must hold on forever, but tempus fugit up 
here as well as elsewhere. The days and weeks seem 
weeks and months in passing, and yet, in the retro- 
spect, time seems to haye passed quickly, because 
there is so little in the past to mark its progress, I 
suppose." 

Lockwood could not realize the extreme cold, and 
seldom wore his gloves when going out for a few 
minutes. Though he put on a thick dog-skin coat 
and seal-skin over-all when taking his daily walk, he 
really did not regard so much clothing necessary. 
Exposure to such low temperatures, however, for 
several hours, and particularly at night, was to be 
dreaded. Many authorities — among others Lieuten- 
ant Greely — spoke of a peculiar sensation in the 
throat on first encountering a very low temperature, 
as when going out of doors from a warm room, but 
such was not Lockwood's experience. Provided it 
was calm, he could stand any degree of cold he had 
yet met with. Owing to the peculiar and admirable 
construction of their house, the men were able to keep 
up 50° of heat within, however cold without. 

On the 13th of February, Lockwood with two men 
went to see what damage had resulted from the late 
storm to the observatory on the summit of Bellot 
Island. Contrary to their expectations, they found 
the snow not only deep, but with a crust just firm 
enough not to bear. Consequently, they sent the 
dog-sledge back, and proceeded on foot, frequently 
sinking down knee-deep. Though the thermometer 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. 129 

stood at — 65°, they got into a profuse perspiration, 
which was not lessened by the steep and slippery as- 
cent of two thousand feet. From this point the sta- 
tion-house seemed only a black spot, and was hardly 
recognizable as a house. Having made their inspec- 
tion and fired their rifles several times as agreed upon 
with Lieutenant Greely, who was experimenting on 
sound, they returned. The result of these experi- 
ments was, that at —65° sound travels nine hundred 
and fifty feet per second. This was the coldest day 
they had yet experienced, and still they did not suffer 
with the cold. 

The return to a warm house was an indescribable 
comfort, and Lockwood thought that if this could 
always be done, Arctic journeying would then be 
nothing. It was unprecedentedly cold even for that 
latitude. Pure brandy and also glycerine were frozen 
hard. The poor dogs suffered, yet many of them 
preferred to remain curled up on the snow-banks 
outside, to occupying the tent and holes prepared 
for them. 

On the 19th, Lockwood made a dog-sledge trip 
with Brainard and the Esquimaux Frederick to Depot 
"B," to look for a good place to cross the straits. 
Found that the snow had drifted so as to form a con- 
tinuous inclined plane from the bluffs far outside the 
snow-house and tent, thus almost concealing them. 
They recognized the spot only by seeing the stove-pipe 
jutting above the snow. Knowing how the mouth of 
the tunnel lay from this point, they dug through the 
hard, compact snow, cleared out the tunnel, and soon 



130 FARTHEST NORTH. 

found themselves within the snow-house. The little 
stove was swallowed up in a cone of snow reaching 
from roof to floor. This had drifted through a small 
aperture where the pipe pierced the roof. The fire 
going out after they turned in, the room became ex- 
tremely damp and chilly. However, they made up 
for the discomforts of the night by a rousing fire in 
the morning, over which they got up a grand break- 
fast of musk-ox steak, beaos, coffee, and hard-tack. 
They next sent the team with Frederick down to St. 
Patrick's Bay for a bag of coal, while Lockwood and 
Brainard walked over the straits toward Polaris Pro- 
montory. Going out some four or five miles over ice 
of varied nature, some exceedingly broken and hum- 
mocky and some quite level, they returned, satisfied 
that the time for crossing over was not yet. Frede- 
rick had, in the mean time, returned, mended up the 
hole in the roof, made a good fire, and prepared a 
warm meal. 

They again started out to test the important pas- 
sage, taking a route farther north. There the rubble- 
ice reached only two hundred yards from the shore, 
beyond which, as far as they walked and could see, 
smooth ice extended. They returned, satisfied that 
this was the place to attempt the passage when the 
time should arrive for their contemplated exploration 
farther north. 

They made the trip over the foot-ice to the station 
(twenty miles) in four hours, thus proving the fine 
condition of the sledge and dogs for traveling, and the 
eagernesB of the dogs to rejoin their companions and 



PRELIMINARY SLEDGE EXPEDITIONS. 131 

pups. All the way, they had before them to the 
southward a rich glow on the horizon like the sun- 
rise of a fine morning at home. They found the men 
celebrating the 22d of February by match-games of 
yarious kinds, and, after listening to an appropriate 
speech on the Father of his Country, enjoyed a good 
dinner. 



"THE ARCTIC MOON." 

As already mentioned in this narrative, among the 
events which occurred at the Greely Scientific Colony, 
or Fort Conger, was the establishment of a newspaper, 
the first ever issued so near the north pole, the near- 
est approach to it previously having been ' e The Ice- 
Blink/' issued by Kane's Expedition in 1854. It was 
projected by G. W. Rice and C. B. Henry, but Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood was the editor-in-chief. The sheet 
was fifteen by nineteen inches in size, first prepared 
in manuscript and then multiplied by photograph, 
published on the 2d of November, 1881, and semi- 
monthly as to time. As the musk-oxen, the walruses, 
and the bears and wolves of Grinneli Land took no 
interest in the enterprise, the patrons of the paper 
were confined to the colony of explorers. In his 
opening address, the editor proudly claimed that his 
corps of contributors embraced the finest minds in the 
country ; that his reporters would always be "on the 
spot " ; that the journal was certain to be superior to 
any other in the country ; and that the subscription 
list numbered not less than twenty-five thousand — the 
last assertion being a servile imitation of what often 
appears in the papers of New York and other Ameri- 



"THE ARCTIC MOON." 133 

can cities. And now, by way of giving the reader an 
idea of the style and character of this unique jour- 
nal, it is proposed to reproduce in this chapter, as 
specimens, a collection of its editorials, contributions, 
items of news, and advertisements. In an article on 
" Christmas," the editor gives us the following pathet- 
ic reflections : 

"Our Christmas-time has come and gone, and, 
although our geographical position is not a favorable 
one for the complete observation of this joyous anni- 
versary, it was attended with many of the happy feat- 
ures that make its memory a pleasant landmark of the 
dying year. No boughs of ' evergreen were berried 
bright ' (our crop of evergreens failed this season), but 
had they existed, the conditions for making them 
' white with rime ' were very favorable. 

" Christmas always attracts a crowd of joyous 
faces, and, although we missed the pleasure of ( child- 
hood's grace and fair maiden's blushes' under the 
mystic mistletoe, the stalwart, bearded men who 
grasped hands under our smoke-begrimed roof felt 
indeed the inspiration of the gladsome time when the 
voice of man's good-will to man speaks forth in every- 
thing. Could the possessors of the kind hearts and 
hands that contributed so much to the pleasure of the 
party have looked in upon the happy, smiling faces, 
living again a day of their youth in the anticipation 
and surprise attending the bestowal and opening of 
the mysterious packages containing the presents, they 
would have felt more than rewarded for their kind 
thoughtfulness. Lips unused to the task framed 



134 FARTHEST NORTH. 

grateful acknowledgments of the kind act. The in- 
terest in our happiness taken by the wife of the com- 
manding officer was repeatedly shown, and when, as 
we sat down to our inviting Christmas dinner, we 
contemplated a crowning proof of her kind good-will, 
repressed enthusiasm could no longer be restrained, 
and three rousing cheers for Mrs. Greely were given 
with an effect which proved beyond cavil the vigor of 
our lungs, and rendered unnecessary the weekly ex- 
amination of the doctor. 

" Of course, the festive season brought with it re- 
grets that would not be repressed, and longings that 
could not be satisfied, when processions of absent 
loved ones and severed friends followed the funerals 
of other Christmas-days through thoughts that would 
wander over snow, and ice, and land, and sea, to the 
happy firesides where we knew they were gathered. 
But every one looked on the bright side of things, and 
extracted as much comfort and pleasure as possible 
under the circumstances ; we even knew one sordid 
individual who congratulated himself on the immu- 
nity of his exchequer from the heavy drafts generally 
entailed by the purchase of Christmas presents. We 
have not space to enter into a detailed account of all 
the happy features of the holiday. Altogether, our 
Christmas was a great success." 

By way of showing that there was nothing very 
frigid in the hearts of the explorers, another editorial 
is submitted, on the New Year : 

" Christmas is gone, with all its pleasant associa- 
tions, and we find ourselves on the threshold of a new 



"THE ARCTIC MOON." 135 

year. What thoughts the day recalls to a reflective 
mind ! the exodus of the old, the advent of the new 
year ; the past and the future, history and prophecy, 
the ceaseless alternation of life and death, the eternity 
of nature. 

"The day is suggestive in another way. "Where 
were we a year ago ? what doing ? what looking for- 
ward to ? Where shall we be a year from now ? what 
will be our surroundings, and what shall we look back 
upon ? How distant seemed this day a year ago ! 
how short now seems the time that has since elapsed ! 

" The new year of 1882 finds us a community of 
twenty-five men, living through the cold and dark- 
ness of an Arctic winter, in a small house near the 
north pole, thousands of miles beyond any civilized 
habitation. A year ago saw us scattered — some in 
the cities, some on the plains of the far West, some 
occupied in quiet routine, some in the ceaseless 
changes and activity of the field. Will the next year 
find us here with our surroundings as satisfactory and 
auspicious ? We trust so, and this day is eminently 
a day for making good resolutions. We are free 
agents, and the future depends, in great part, on our- 
selves. Let us, then, determine that, so far as lies 
within our power, we shall have no cause to look back 
with regret on the year just ushered in. The phrase 
is hackneyed, but none the less true : 
1 Of all sad words of tongue or pen, 
The saddest are these — it might have been.' " 

And now we come to a contribution addressed to 
the editor of the "Arctic Moon," as follows : 



136 FARTHEST NORTH. 

"As Grinnell Land is a recognized Territory 
of the United States, and has a territorial form of 
government, a delegate from this Territory is to be 
elected who is to take his seat at the opening of the 
Forty-seventh Congress. The undersigned offers him- 
self as a candidate for the office, on the following 
platform : I am in favor of reaching the north pole 
by balloon, a liberal appropriation for the purchase of 
lime-juice, compulsory education, unlimited emigra- 
tion, a homestead and sixty acres of land, one musk- 
ox and two Esquimaux dogs to each actual settler. I 
am also a strong advocate of woman's rights, but there 
is no good in rights without the woman. I am pre- 
pared to ' chaw ' the points on the above platform ; I 
think it is ' plump, 5 and will stand without being 
propped up. 

(Signed) "Cornell." 

And now, under the general heading of " Moon- 
Beams" we come to the following paragraphs, which 
are not only spicy, but characteristic of the time and 
place with which they are identified : 

"The British expedition found the ice in this har- 
bor, January 1, 1876, twenty-eight and three-quarter 
inches thick. Measurements made this day showed 
thirty-four inches. Our average temperature for De- 
cember was nearly eight degrees lower than theirs for 
the same month. 

" The darkest day being a thing of the past, we 
shall soon find ourselves sliding down hill quite rap- 
idly. We have made complete arrangements to have 



"THE ARCTIC MOON." 137 

the sun interviewed on his return to this country the 
latter part of February. 

" The walrus seem to have emigrated, so that the 
Dutch Island people now take their daily exercise in 
peas. 

<(i l wonder what is in the mess-boxes?' is the 
oft-repeated query. Have patience, brethren, time 
will show. 

" Old Probabilities will be surprised to learn, that 
his enterprising colony at this point is indulging in out- 
door sports with the thermometer at 40° below zero. 

" To-day, at Dutch Island, Lieutenant Kislingbury 
was able to see the time of day holding his watch 
about one foot from his face. 

" Sergeant Cross has made another addition to his 
already numerous trades — that of bottling samples of 
air for the examination and scrutiny of those not fa- 
vored with a sniff of Arctic breezes. 

"Sergeant Brainard is excellent authority for the 
statement that the gate-money taken at the racing 
contest will be devoted to the advancement of geo- 
graphical knowledge within the Arctic Circle. Such 
being the case, the number of aborigines present will 
be a crucial test of the desire on the part of the Grin- 
nellites to bring their country into more general 
knowledge. 

"Wanted — A good family horse. Will buy it 
cheap, or will take for his keeping, or keep for his 
taking. To be used on good country roads and for 
family driving. Must be very gentle. JSTo objections 
to a Government mule. Address Jacob Doboy. 



138 FARTHEST NORTH. 



a 



Wanted — A poet for the ' Arctic Moon.' Must 
be strictly temperate and a good speech-maker. No 
tailors need apply. Address this office. 

"Wanted — A humoristic writer for the ' Arctic 
Moon.' The present incumbent has suddenly be- 
come ill from too close application. 

"Information wanted of the Greely Arctic Expe- 
dition. It strayed away from home last July, and 
was last heard from at Upernavik, Greenland. 

" We beg leave to announce to the public that we 
have made extensive improvements in our establish- 
ment, whereby we can furnish at the shortest notice 
bread, twists, rolls, cakes, pies, tarts, and, in fact, 
anything in the baker's line. Wedding cakes made a 
specialty. Are thankful for past patronage, and re- 
spectfully ask its continuance in future. 
" Frederick Shootman, 
" Sak Francisco Longman - , 

"Merchant Bakers." 1 



XL 
EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 

OiN" the 29th of February, Lieutenant Lockwood 
went upon an experimental trip to Thank God Harbor 
preparatory to his proposed grand expedition along 
the coast of Northern Greenland. His companions 
were Brainard, Jewell, Long, and the Esquimaux, 
Frederick and Jans, with two dog- teams. As the 
dogs, constantly yelping and howling, competed for 
the mastery, they traveled rapidly, and, after many 
twistings and turnings, reached their destination, 
where they found the observatory still standing. 
They took a necessary inventory, and, after a survey 
of the dismal plain, visited the grave of 0. F. Hall, 
where Lieutenant Lockwood recorded the following 
touching notice in his journal : " The head-board 
erected by his comrades, as also the metallic one left 
by the English, still stands. How mournful to me the 
scene, made more so by the howling of the winds 
and the thick atmosphere ! It was doubtless best 
that he died where he did. I have come to regard 
him as a visionary and an enthusiast, who was in- 
debted more to fortune than to those practical abili- 
ties which Kane possessed. Yet he gave his life to 
the cause, and that must always go far toward re- 



140 FARTHEST NORTH. 

deeming the short-comings of any man. The conclud- 
ing lines of the inscription on the English tablet, I 
think good : ' To Captain Hall, who sacrificed his life 
in the advancement of science, November 8, 1871. 
This tablet has been erected by the British Polar Ex- 
pedition of 1875, which followed in his footsteps and 
profited by his experience.'" 

The American inscription on the wooden head- 
board was as follows : 

IN MEMOEY OF 

CHAELES FRANCIS HALL, 

LATE COMMANDER U. S. STEAMER POLARIS, 
NORTH POLE EXPEDITION. 

Died November 8, 1871. 

" I am the resurrection and the life ; he that believeth in me, 
though he were dead, yet shall he live." 

After various struggles with the snow, fog, and 
cold weather, ending in frosted feet and faces, and 
after inspecting a boat left by Buddington, they re- 
turned by way of the snow-house at Cape Beechy, and, 
all Tery much exhausted, reached the station, receiv- 
ing a hearty welcome. Greely had been very anx- 
ious about the party, owing to a storm of great vio- 
lence, and had sent Dr. Pavy with men to their relief. 
The trip thus made covered not less than one hundred 
and forty miles. Lockwood now decided that on the 
1st of April he would start upon his proposed expedi- 
tion. This trip occupied his mind continually. He 
hoped he might be successful, yet there were many 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 141 

chances of failure. Who could divine the future ? 
He felt that he ought to be able to reach Cape Bri- 
tannia, but that was not enough ; he desired to do 
more. 

As the time for taking his departure approached, 
Lockwood was greatly troubled with rheumatism, 
but still was very busy in maturing his plans. 
Lieutenant Greely wrote him a flattering letter, put- 
ting the whole plan of operations in his hands and 
placing at his disposal the entire personnel and mate- 
rial of the expedition. This would include almost all 
who could take the field. The men were becoming 
enthusiastic and were showing an admirable spirit, 
although they knew from experience that they were 
to engage in no child's play. Almost all of those se- 
lected had shown pluck hitherto. Without this ele- 
ment no one could endure the hardships that they 
might have to undergo. Should any of those selected 
break down early, there were excellent substitutes 
among those left behind. Lockwood was pleased with 
an exhibition of pluck by Ellis, who walked all the way 
from Depot ( e A" with a frozen foot, refusing the offer 
of Jewell to bring him on the dog-sledge. Jewell, on 
returning from Lincoln Bay, had orders to convey 
stores to the " Gap," where the boat previously sent 
over the strait lay. Hence, before starting, supplies 
would be placed at Depot " B," at the " Gap," and at 
a point intermediate on the frozen strait. 

Having all things complete, Sergeant Brainard was 
to proceed at once with the supporting parties to Cape 
Sumner. He was to leave Depot " B " with a weight 



142 FARTHEST NORTH. 

to drag of one hundred and thirty pounds per man. 
Lockwood was to follow with dog-sledge loaded with 
five hundred pounds of pemmican. Thus they would 
concentrate at Cape Sumner with the six hundred 
rations in hand, together with seven hundred pounds 
of dog pemmican. The stores embraced pemmican, 
bacon, corned beef, roast musk-ox, raw musk-ox, Eng- 
lish beef, hard bread, canned beans, potatoes, sugar, 
tea, chocolate, and coffee, besides which they carried 
alcohol for cooking and lime-juice as an anti-scor- 
butic. Their sledge ration had been made up by con- 
sultation with Lieutenant Greely, though, of course, 
it might be departed from if circumstances required. 
The diet list was purposely a varied one. No rum or 
spirits were taken except as a medicine. The main 
supporting party consisted of Sergeant Lynn, Corporal 
Ellison, and privates Biederbick, Whistler, and Henry. 

Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Jewell, and the 
Esquimaux Frederick formed the advance party, while 
Sergeants Brainard and Ealston, Corporal Saler, and 
privates Connell, Fredericks, and one other man con- 
stituted the second supporting party. 

On the 2d of April, the main and second supporting 
parties moved off in good style, amid the waving of 
flags, firing of pistols, cheers, and other demonstrations. 
Both Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood took occasion 
to address the men a few words of encouragement and 
advice. Lockwood confined his remarks to the neces- 
sity of co-operation and subordination as the chief 
essentials to success. He would follow with Jewell 
and the dog-sledge, and, if he knew himself, would not 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 143 

return unsuccessful. He got off at 8 p. it., with Jewell, 
Frederick, and the dog-sledge Antoinette. The team 
of eight consisted of " Eitenbank, the king," a large 
white dog, at whose growl all the rest trembled ; 
"Major," a friend of Eitenbank, and a very useful, 
good-natured old fellow, hard-working and quiet, 
without any special characteristics ; " Howler," a 
large, lean, mean, ill-natured brute, whom they took 
on board at Disco, and who lorded it over the rest till 
Eitenbank came on board at the place of the same 
name, when Howler was dethroned ; since which he 
had been morose and misanthropic, and never associ- 
ated with the other dogs. He set up the most un- 
earthly howling whenever any other dog approached 
him, especially if that other dog had designs on some- 
thing he was engaged in eating or trying to eat — a 
tin can, for instance. At the end of a march, when 
the pemmican was being cut up, and he, with the 
rest, was awaiting his opportunity to make a general 
rush, his howling became almost unendurable. But 
he was especially despicable, because he allowed any 
and every dog of the team to jump on and bite him. 
His only redeeming trait was his earnestness in pull- 
ing, for, when the sledge stuck in deep snow or 
rubble-ice, he was the last of the dogs to sit on his 
haunches and look while you got it out. On sev- 
eral occasions when Eitenbank was making efforts 
to get inside the tent and steal the meat while all 
were asleep, Howler had given the alarm by his un- 
earthly howling. His place in the team was on the 
right flank, and he kept it all the time, never drop- 
7 



144 FARTHEST NORTH. 

ping back and coming up in the wrong place, as did 
the other dogs. Next to Howler was the " Woolly 
dog," a dirty-looking cur with long white hair, which 
made Howler's life a burden all the time by snapping 
at him as he hauled by his side. Next came the 
" kooney s," signifying in Esquimaux mother-dogs. 
They were called " Black Kooney" and "White 
Kooney," and were both good workers. Then came 
" Ask-him," a pup when brought on board in Green- 
land, but now of age, and bearing the airs of a veter- 
an. He brooked insult from no dog but Eitenbank, 
and evidently bided his time to contest the throne 
with him. He had even taken upon himself the 
kingly custom of biting the adjoining dog whenever 
he felt the whip. On his left were two dogs already 
named, " Major " and the " Boss." On the left flank 
was "Gypsy," a little fat kooney dog which pulled 
only under the lash, and yet by foraging and stealing 
managed to get twice the rations of any of the rest, 
and was always plump and fat. 

The advance party reached Depot "A" in good 
time, and took on five sacks (five hundred pounds) of 
dog pemmican and some cans of corned beef, which 
made their load very heavy. 

On the 5th of April, Lockwood reached the snow- 
house, and there found Brainard and the rest, making 
thirteen altogether. They completely filled the house, 
and also the dug-out in the snow-bank adjoining, 
so that Lockwood and Jewell moved the provisions 
out of the tent, and slept there, and Frederick in 
the tunnel. The tent being snowed in to the ridge- 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 145 

pole, and connected with the tunnel, they were quite 
comfortable. On the same day they saw an eagle 
on a floe-berg, which was considered a good omen. 
After needed rest all hands took their departure. The 
snow on the ice-floe was somewhat deep, and the loads 
very heavy. The route across the straits, previously 
determined on, was from Cape Beechy to within five 
or six miles of the east shore, and then as direct as 
possible to Cape Sumner. On reaching the tent on 
the straits, about four and one half miles out, Lock- 
wood dropped his load, and went back to look after 
the sledges, then out of sight. He found Whistler 
sick and unable to pull, and Biederbick and Conn ell 
trying to pull the load without him — not an encour- 
aging commencement of a long journey. Aided by 
the dog-sledge, all soon reached the tent and camped 
for the night. Lockwood, Jewell, and Frederick slept 
in the wall-tent, pitched there some weeks before. 
Lockwood writes at this point : "Finding it very cold, 
I was glad to get up and out, leaving Jewell to the un- 
happy work of getting breakfast. (Breakfast ! what 
a misnomer in such cases !) I then went to the two 
tents occupied by the others to inquire for healths. 
Mr. Henry, correspondent of the ' Chicago Times' 
(as he called himself), the same who had written on 
the side of a large iceberg, ' Ho ! for Cape Britannia,' 
said he could go no farther, as he had been suffering 
dreadfully all night with rheumatism ; or, if he did 
go farther, we would have to haul him back, while 
from here he thought he could manage to hobble by 
himself to the snow-house, and, after resting there and 



146 FARTHEST NORTH. 

again at Depot 'A,' reach, the station. Henry is a 
big fellow, oyer six feet in height, with apparently the 
strength and physique of Hercules. It was a bad omen 
for the rest of us when he broke down. Connell had 
frozen his feet the previous day quite badly, and only 
discovered the extent of the injury after getting into 
camp, but thought he could go on, or at least was 
determined to try. All hands looked very forlorn, 
but generally were resolute and determined. Finally, 
Jewell had the tea and canned meat warmed suffi- 
ciently, and we stuffed ourselves with all there was to 
stuff, and prepared to follow the others who had al- 
ready started. We overtook Fredericks (the saddler) 
struggling along in the snow with a sledge all by him- 
self. He was a dwarf by the side of the giant Henry. 
It was necessary to do something, and so I told Jewell 
he must join Fredericks, and leave the Esquimaux and 
me to manage the dog-sledge. I overtook the main 
party about a mile and a half from camp, doing their 
best. Connell could hardly walk at all, and it was 
utterly impossible for him to pull. He was very re- 
luctant to go back, but there was no alternative ; so, 
throwing off the load, I took him on the dog-sledge as 
far as Cape Beechy, whence he thought he could get 
along by himself. On returning I picked up the load, 
and proceeded to follow the trail of the others. The 
snow soon became worse, and the sledge so often stuck 
that I determined to double up — take half the load at 
a time. The Esquimaux dogs can pull a very heavy 
load, and through bad places, but the moment the 
sledge comes to a dead halt they sit on their haunches, 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 147 

turn complacently round, and wait till the sledge is 
extricated. If not fully started, they will pull at 
random, or not at all. On these occasions the hard 
work comes upon the driver and others with the 
sledge." 

On the 7th, they joined the other wing of the ex- 
pedition, finding them in camp some miles south- 
west of the gap. The wind had been blowing and 
snow drifting for some hours, and everything indi- 
cated a storm. Lockwood and Frederick pitched tent 
and went into camp, first bringing up the rest of the 
load. 

While the storm was still raging, they got off with 
half the load, leaving the rest making preparations 
for a move, and took a course for Cape Sumner, whose 
steep, rocky face loomed up in the distance, terminat- 
ed by a line of magnificent cliffs, which extended un- 
broken, except by " the Gap," as far south as Cape 
Lupton of Polaris fame. They traveled upon level 
floes interrupted by ridges of hummocky ice, over 
which they had to get the sledge as best they could, 
and with frequent use of the axe. The wind blowing 
stronger, and the air being obscured with driving 
snow, they could with difficulty pick their way. Trav- 
eling over the straits was like navigating a ship in a 
tortuous channel. They soon found themselves in 
the midst of a mass of rubble-ice of the worst de- 
scription; gaps and chasms between the crags and 
blocks of ice, often filled with loose snow, or entire- 
ly obscured by that flying through the air. They 
could barely see the. cliffs on their right, and could 



148 FARTHEST NORTH. 

not recognize their position. The dogs became yery 
much discouraged, Frederick also, and Lockwood him- 
self felt in no yery enyiable frame of mind. After 
many ineffectual efforts, and unloading and reloading 
repeatedly, they left the load and attempted to ex- 
plore a route to shore. Not succeeding, they hunted 
for some suitable snow-drift in which to burrow, and 
there await better weather ; but saw none. Finally, 
the storm letting up for a moment, they found a 
level floe, and, with the use of the axe, Lockwood and 
Frederick got the sledge upon it. 

On the 8th, at 3 a. m., they arrived at Cape Sum- 
ner, and, getting through the rubble-ice near the 
shore, gained the steep snow-slope which lay between 
the foot of the cliffs and the line of immense floe- 
bergs along the shore, stranded and pressed close up 
to the snow-slope. Between the bergs and the slope, 
the wind had made great gaps, deep and tortuous. 
The only way to get along was either through these 
gaps — often like pits — or to take the slope above and 
run the risk of tumbling down into them, sledge and 
all, sometimes fifteen or twenty feet. There was 
often no alternative but the latter. Lockwood ex- 
pected to find it calm there by reason of the pro- 
tection of the bluffs, but, on the contrary, the wind 
came down from above in gusts and whirlwinds, filling 
the air with eddying columns of snow. When about 
a mile from the Polaris Boat Camp, they encountered 
an immense mass of snow entirely filling up the ra- 
vine from top to bottom. Leaving the sledge, Lock- 
wood went on to see if he could reach the Boat Camp, 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 149 

but could hardly keep his feet on account of the 
wind. Keturning, he and Frederick made a small hole 
in the side of a large drift, and, pulling in everything 
the dogs could possibly eat, prepared to " weather the 
storm." By 9 A. m., supper had been eaten in dark- 
ness, for they had no candles, and Frederick, wedged 
close up to him in the frozen sleeping-bag, was snorting 
away like a steam-engine. Lockwood soon fell asleep 
too, but woke up to find the sleeping-bag and his foot- 
gear and clothes wet with the moisture such close 
quarters produced. Everything inside was thawing. 
Soon after, masses of snow falling down through a 
number of rents in the side and roof of the excavation, 
he began to think they would be smothered alive. But 
while thinking about it, he went to sleep again, leav- 
ing Frederick snorting as before. Just how long they 
slept in that snow-bank, they did not know, but when 
they did wake up and try to emerge, they found them- 
selves completely snowed in, and only got out by vig- 
orous use of their knives, so hard and compact had 
the ice and snow become. Frederick being able to 
understand only signs and a very few words chiefly 
referring to food, their conversation was very limited. 
They found the dogs and sledge almost buried in 
snow. Hastily harnessing up, they reached the Boat 
Camp on Newman's Bay at noon. Here they again 
went into camp by digging into a snow-bank and cov- 
ering the hole with the tent. " Skaffer," or eating, 
being first in order, they supplied themselves by thaw- 
ing their prepared roast. Then they had a smoke — 
that great solace of the traveler in every clime. Snow- 



150 FARTHEST NORTH. 

houses and snow-holes, they concluded, haye many 
objections, but they always haye the merit of being 
warm. Feeling uneasy about Brainard and his par- 
ty, imagining all manner of things about them, at 
9 p. m., Lockwood left everything behind and went 
forth with dogs and sledge to hunt them up, and at 
midnight met them valiantly struggling along toward 
the Boat Camp. They had found shelter from the 
storm behind a large, friendly floe-berg, where the 
tent could stand. On the 10th, preceding them, he 
picked up the bags of pemmican he had put off, and 
returned to Boat Camp, where they came also and 
burrowed in the snow. All thus found themselves 
at their first station. Jewell, being originally of the 
party of the dog-sledge, lodged and fed with them 
when together, he sleeping in a single bag, and Lock- 
wood and Frederick together. "It was," Lockwood 
remarks, " a choice of evils which to prefer — Frederick 
groaning like a piece of machinery, or Jewell always 
getting the stockings and wraps mixed up, and invari- 
ably laying hold of the dry ones as his own." 

" Snow-holes," he again says, "having the insu- 
perable objection of asphyxiation, we repaired the 
tents and returned to civilization — that is, went 
really into camp. "Whistler and Bender were found 
completely done up this morning both in flesh and 
spirits — all kinds of pains, shortness of breath, spit- 
ting of blood, faintness. Not being enthusiastic about 
going farther, I deemed it best to send them back, 
and they left at once for the station." 

They now had several things to look to before go- 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 151 

ing farther — to bring up the rations sent across to 
the Gap, also to bring oyer those left at the tent on 
the straits. 

At midnight, Brainard and party, with three 
Hudson Bay sledges, started on this work, and Lock- 
wood left two hours after, with a dog-sledge and Fred- 
erick, for the same purpose. Taking advantage of 
smooth ice, interrupted now and then outside the pack 
near shore, he soon overhauled Brainard, and they 
reached the Gap together. There they found the boat, 
which had been sent over with so much labor, a com- 
plete wreck. They, however, placed it out of reach 
of further damage, as it might yet become important 
to them. They then went into camp by going into a 
snow-burrow prepared there some weeks before when 
the boat had been brought over, and proceeded to 
have a feast, which possessed at least one merit, that 
of being enough, for Lockwood did not deem it neces- 
sary to adhere strictly to sledge rations till they had 
left their base of supplies. Leaving the others to load 
up and return to Boat Camp, he and Frederick left 
with the dog-sledge for the food put out on the straits 
en route. Part of this they took up and then joined 
the others at Boat Camp, men and dogs well spent 
and tired ; but a good meal, a good smoke, and a 
snooze in their bags, set them all right. 

Their number was now reduced to nine, two hav- 
ing been sent back soon after leaving the snow-house 
(Depot "B"), and two from Boat Camp. The Hud- 
son Bay sledges were much worn, and likely to become 
useless. Lockwood now determined to return to the 



152 FARTHEST NORTH. 

main station for new runners, leaving the men under 
Brainard to bring up the supplies still out, and other- 
wise make ready for the advance. The round trip 
would be one hundred miles, and would add much 
to the labor of the dogs, but there was no help for it, 
as he could take no chances on the threshold of the 
long journey before them. 

Soon after making this resolve, he and Frederick 
got off with their team, carrying nothing but an axe 
and half a pound of tobacco. The dogs were in fine 
condition, notwithstanding their recent hard work. 
True, they supplemented their rations and thus 
added to their strength by stealing thirty-five pounds 
of bacon ! tf<r It is wonderful," Lockwood here re- 
marks, "what these Esquimaux dogs can do. This 
team, which was regarded as a scrub affair — Dr. Pavy 
having had his pick of dogs — hauled ice all through 
the winter, made a trip beyond Cape Beechy in Feb- 
ruary, another to Thank-God-Harbor and Newman's 
Bay in March, and then hauled a load to Lincoln 
Bay and four days after started on this present trip ; 
yet now they travel along as lively as ever — so lively 
that the driver finds it difficult to keep up." 

They duly reached the station, and, of course, 
Greely and all were surprised to see them, probably 
taking them for another cargo of cripples. After a 
good sleep and a feast, they were off on their return 
at 10 p. m. of the 14th. They took on the runners, a 
feed of walrus-meat, a few other trifles, and also a 
heliograph, the last to open communication in case of 
delay or disaster. Stopping six hours at the snow- 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 153 

house to rest and feed, they started across the strait 
with a small load of meat, and, notwithstanding 
some rubble-ice which delayed them, reached the 
Boat Camp at 5.30 p. m., very tired and very sleepy, 
too, having accomplished this remarkable journey of \ 
one hundred miles in fifty-four hours. During their 
absence, Brainard had brought in everything, and 
all was ready for the advance as soon as they could 
repair the sledges. 

After repairing and rebuilding, they had for the 
trip : 

1. Dog-sledge, Lieutenant Lockwood and Esqui- 
maux Frederick ; total weight, 743 pounds. 

2. Large sledge (the "JSTares"), drawn by Ser- 
geants Brainard and Ralston and Corporal Saler; 
estimated total weight, 651 pounds. 

3. Hudson Bay sledge ("Hall"), drawn by Ser- 
geant Jewell and private Fredericks ; estimated total 
weight, 300 pounds. 

4. Hudson Bay sledge ("Hayes"), drawn by Ser- 
geant Lynn and Corporal Ellison ; estimated total 
weight, 300 pounds. 

Of this weight, 225 pounds was of equipments, 
independent of weight of sledges, and 900 pounds, of 
food for men and dogs. 

At 10.30 p. m., they left the Boat Camp and 
crossed Newman's Bay, to a ravine, or narrow valley, 
directly opposite, which the lieutenant called Gorge 
Creek after finding it was not the route he had taken 
it for — that of Beaumont's return. The others being 
far behind, he left the sledge and proceeded on alone 



154 FARTHEST NORTH. 

to explore. Passing through a narrow gap, the val- 
ley widened out as before, in some places the exposed 
stones offering a serious obstacle to heavily laden 
sledges. Keturning, he and Frederick went back 
with the team and assisted in bringing up the foot- 
sledges. Then, after an advance of ten miles in eight 
hours, all went into camp again. Leaving the camp 
at 10 p. m., and doubling up from the start, they 
made their way up the valley, through the gap, and 
to the head of the valley beyond. They found the 
exposed stones so annoying that Lockwood regretted 
often he had not taken the route round Cape Bre- 
voort, notwithstanding the rubble-ice. Though Lock- 
wood felt confident he had reached the divide, yet, 
throwing off the load, he sent Frederick with the team 
back to assist the others, while he went ahead to fur- 
ther reconnoitre. Although he ascended a high hill, 
he could see little encouraging beyond. He returned 
to the load and continued down-stream until he met the 
others painfully advancing, when all went into camp, 
after making an advance of six miles in eight hours. 

Got off again with half -load at 10 p. m. Preced- 
ing the others, Lockwood and Frederick made their 
way over slightly undulating plains, keeping as far as 
possible northward until they came to a decided de- 
pression in that direction, sometimes following blind 
leads, and then returning and continuing on their 
former way. Lockwood finally saw before him the 
crest of the bluff of a water-course, gaining which he 
found to his joy a stream running north, which he 
entered. Though filled with snow, it afforded good 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 155 

traveling for the dog team. Continuing down this 
stream, he passed between two large masses of rock 
like a gateway. Here was a regular canon as straight 
as a street and nearly level, whose sides were almost 
perpendicular and extremely picturesque. Seeing no 
signs of the sea, he resolved to camp here. To this 
end, throwing off the half load, he went back for that 
left behind, expecting to meet the foot-sledges on the 
way. Disappointed in this, he returned to the ravine, 
and at 6 p.m. he and Frederick were into their sleep- 
ing-bags, feeling much uneasiness about their route, 
for they had already traveled a much greater distance 
than the English maps called for as lying between 
Newman's Bay and the north coast. 

Although the men with the drag-sledges had not 
come up, Lockwood resolved to leave everything be- 
hind and go ahead down the canon with the empty 
sledge till assured that he was en route to the sea by 
finding the sea itself. Carrying out this resolve at 
10 A. M., the canon soon widened into a valley, with 
deep, soft snow-bed or stones, and inclosed by lofty 
mountains. He crossed this, and came to a gorge 
like a railroad-cutting, through which the stream 
ran. Ascending an adjacent hill, before him lay what 
seemed an extended plain, which he recognized as the 
sea, from a line of floe-bergs marking the coast. 

Just where they were, he did not know, nor did he 
find out till their return. The sea had been found, 
so now they were to find and bring up the men and 
sledges. Lockwood and Frederick, with the wearied 
team, rapidly went back and happily found the ab- 



156 FARTHEST NOETH. 

sent ones, safely, if not comfortably, camped along- 
side their load. 

All broke camp at 7 p. m. and proceeded to bring 
up such of the impedimenta as had been left behind ; 
after which they made their way with great labor 
through the canon, valley, and gorge to the sea, reach- 
ing there, at 4 a. m. of the 22d, with everything ex- 
cept a seal-skin mit, which got adrift and went flying 
before the wind over the hills like a bird ; for a terrific 
snow-storm was then raging. They found great dif- 
ficulty in making the tents stand, and, indeed, aban- 
doned the attempt except as to one, into which they all 
huddled to weather out the storm. The cooking was 
confined to making a little tepid tea. They remained 
in their bags, sleeping at intervals, and even going 
without food and water rather than venture out. 

Finally, on the morning of the 23d, the storm had 
abated, and they ventured out, to find that the dogs 
had taken advantage of the circumstances to eat up 
twenty pounds of bacon and twelve pounds of beef, 
although these had been secured, as was supposed, at 
the bottom of a sledge. They had also eaten a 
seal-skin mitten. After some repairs to the sledges, 
which had suffered by the stony route passed over, 
they proceeded on their way along the coast, keeping 
on the ice-foot which here ran along a low, sloping 
shore backed by a range of hills. At Drift Point, 
the snow formed steep slopes, extending from the 
bluffs (now near the sea) to the tops of the line of 
floe-bergs along shore. There, the sledge "Nares" 
breaking down, it was necessary to abandon it and 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 157 

increase the loads on the other sledges, carrying 
along the good parts of the "ISTares" to repair the 
others when needful. Doubling up, they made 
their way along those steep slopes until near Black 
Horn Cliffs. Here the slopes became so abrupt that 
they were driven on to the rubble-ice near the shore. 
So difficult was their way over this with the heavily 
loaded sledges, that in many places by standing pulls 
only could progress be made. Near these cliffs they 
went into camp after bringing up the half -loads left 
behind, having advanced five miles in eight and a half 
hours. Leaving half their stuff, they then made their 
way over the rubble-ice, frequently using the axe, till 
they came to the end of the cliffs, when the sledges 
went back for the rest of the stuff, while Lockwood 
looked for a more practicable route. Off shore, half 
a mile seaward, he found a fair route, following 
which he reached Cape Stanton. He thought Stan- 
ton Gorge, where Beaumont had left forty rations, to 
be near. These, however, he failed to find. After 
taking a short nap in the lee of a hummock, he re- 
turned to find Frederick and the dog-sledge. The 
others coming up, all went into camp fully tired 
out, for, besides the roughness of the ice, they had 
encountered a stiff wind. Two ptarmigans were seen 
near Cape Stanton. 

On the 25th of April Frederick declined break- 
fast — evidence of something wrong with him. Lock- 
wood, therefore, resolved to go up to a gorge he had 
seen the previous day, and there go into camp and lie 
over a day. Frederick could hardly walk, and hence 



158 FARTHEST NORTH. 

rode when it was possible. Finding a snow-slope 
inside the hummocks, they made good progress and 
reached "Gorge Best" in one hour. In the mean 
while the sun came out, and the air became calm and 
warm, affording a good opportunity for drying wet 
clothes and bags. Lockwood gave a drink of brandy 
to Frederick, and then displayed Mrs. Greely's silk 
flag, as they had now attained a point higher than 
any American had before reached. In the afternoon, 
Jewell and Ealston succeeded in finding Beaumont's 
cache farther on, and, as proof of their discovery, 
brought back a can of rum marked " Bloodhound," 
the name of his sledge. It was about there that his 
first man was sent back with the scurvy. Afterward, 
when all but two had the disease, they had to go on 
or die in the traces. 

On the 26th, Frederick was well, otherwise he 
would have been sent back. They built a cache and 
left one day's ration for men and dogs ; also, to lighten 
load, snow-shoes, head and foot gear, blankets, indeed 
everything they could do without. They reached Stan- 
ton Gorge, dropped load, and Frederick was sent back 
with the team for the rest of their stuff. The men 
came in without doubling, having also found Beau- 
mont's cache on a high hill. They all agreed that such 
unnecessary labor was enough to bring on the scurvy. 
They found there fifty-six pounds of pemmican, ten 
pounds of bacon, and a large box containing bread, 
potatoes, chocolate, tea, sugar, onion-powder, and 
stearin e used for fuel, all of which were taken on to 
Cape Bryant. Beyond this point, to Cape Stanton, 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 159 

their route lay along the foot of steep snow-slopes 
beneath the cliffs, with lines of floe- bergs and hum- 
mocks outside, and was exceedingly rough. Lockwood 
and Frederick, after crossing Hand Bay, passed the 
men moving slowly and laboriously. Their troubles 
were increased by frequent upsettings of the sledges 
along the slope and by the friction of the splintered 
bottoms owing to the runners cutting through. 

It was not till 8 p. m. that they all reached Frank- 
field Bay, and, thoroughly tired out, went into camp, 
after an advance of nine miles in thirteen hours. 

Here they cached one day's rations for all, and 
then traveled along the low shore which skirted the 
base of Mount Lowe, and came upon the snow-covered 
surface of Frankfield Bay, a small and pretty harbor 
surrounded by steep mountains. Beyond this bay, 
they crossed a spit of land, going up a steep slope, and 
down another equally steep at a run. There they 
threw off a half load and went back for the rest. 
Afterward all proceeded with half-loads, Lockwood 
taking his post at the traces and pulling with the 
men. After a while he dropped off to help Frederick, 
while the men went on to Cape Bryant. Taking ad- 
vantage of an interval of leisure, he got out the lamp 
and made just two pint-cups of tea for Frederick and 
himself. "Of all the occasions," he says, "when a 
draught of tea tasted particularly good, none like this 
lingers in my memory. Though without milk and 
with very little sugar, it tasted like nectar. In fact, 
as the gods never undertook any Arctic sledge-jour- 
neys, their nectar was not half so delicious." 



160 FARTHEST NORTH. 

On the 27th, Lockwood shot five ptarmigans or 
Arctic quails. Sitting on a floe-berg, they were scarce- 
ly distinguishable from the snow. The traveling on 
that day was on the whole fair ; yet so heavily were 
the sledges loaded, and so much worn, that when, 
after making fifteen miles in twelve hours, they 
reached Cape Bryant at 8.30 p. m., both men and dogs 
were nearly exhausted. To add to their joylessness, 
they had to be very sparing of their rations. Cracker- 
dust was with them the grand panacea for short ra- 
tions. This went into every stew, was mixed with 
their tea, and was even taken alone, and found to be 
very filling. By its aid, they persuaded themselves 
that the short allowance was a hearty repast. 

On the 28th, Brainard and others made an unsuc- 
cessful search for a cache left there by Beaumont, but 
got a good view of Cape Britannia from a high cliff. 
Lockwood and Jewell also saw it from a height back 
of the camp. Beaumont had seen Cape Britannia, 
but never reached it. He got only thirty miles far- 
ther than Cape Bryant ; that is, to the opposite side 
of the fiord which here appears, and which they called 
"Beaumont's Fiord." While Frederick brought up 
some stores left behind, Lockwood busied himself 
with many details connected with his further advance 
toward the north, for now his supports were to leave 
him and return to the Boat Camp, while Brainard, 
Frederick, and himself, with the dog-sledge, were to 
proceed alone. 

Lockwood now satisfied himself by a careful in- 
spection of the sledges that the supporting party 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 161 

could go no farther, especially as some of the men 
were suffering with snow-blindness. He therefore 
broke up one of the sledges, and with it repaired the 
remaining drag-sledge and the dog-sledge. Brainard, 
also suffering with snow-blindness, remained in the 
tent, while Lockwood with the others built a cache 
and deposited therein the Beaumont stores and such 
others as they could not take on. Food for the return 
party to Boat Camp haying been dropped en route, 
he decided to take with him twenty-five days' rations. 
Hence their advance must be limited to the time these 
rations would feed them, going northeast and return- 
ing to Cape Bryant. 

He started, therefore, with — 

Men-rations, weighing 230 pounds. 

Dog-pemmican, weighing 300 " 

Equipments, weighing 176 " 

Dog-sledge, weighing 80 " 



Total 788 " 

or about 98 pounds to each dog. 

The weather, though cold, causing some frost- 
bites, had been beautiful during their stay here. The 
men had done their parts well, and had endured un- 
complainingly much hard work, hardship, and expos- 
ure. The supporting party left at 4 p. m., after hearty 
hand-shaking and wishing good luck to Lockwood, 
Brainard, and Frederick, leaving the three lonely and 
depressed on that desolate shore. 

And now, as the returning party disappeared in 



162 FARTHEST NORTH. 

the distance, the explorers turned toward Cape Bri- 
tannia. Although they started with a yery heavy load, 
yet the traveling was fine, and, all three pushing, 
they made rapid progress, haying Cape May directly 
ahead and across the fiord. The dogs seemed to ob- 
ject to going oyer the sea, and kept deflecting con- 
stantly to the right, the only difficulty arising from 
the deepening of the snow and its becoming soft. 
When they got stuck, Brainard would pull at the 
traces, while Lockwood would push at the ujDstand, 
and Frederick diyide his energies between helping 
them and inducing the dogs to do so. 

At 1 A. m. on April 30th, they camped on the fiord, 
well satisfied with their advance of sixteen miles in 
eight hours without once doubling. 

Moving off at 5 p. m. with full load, they had not 
gone far before they were forced to throw off half of 
it, and soon with this half they found it difficult to 
get along, for the sledge would sink down to the slats 
and the men to their knees through the deep, soft 
snow. Lockwood could fully appreciate poor Brain- 
ard' s efforts and labors in a fiord at the southwest, 
when he crawled through snow waist-deep, and on 
hands and knees, for two hundred yards. At 9 p. m. 
they came to hummocks, pitched tent, threw off load, 
and, while Lockwood prepared supper, the others went 
back with the team to bring up what they had thrown 
off. They had to adhere strictly to the allowance, for 
they had rations for just so many days. They had 
advanced six miles in seven hours and three quarters. 

They started again the next morning with full 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 163 

load, but soon had to pitch off again. Had better 
traveling, on the whole, than on the previous day, 
though meeting with ranges of old floes and hum- 
mocks filled in with snow. Shortly after midnight, 
they came abreast Cape May, the desire of Beaumont, 
but which, with his crew broken down with scurvy, 
and with heavy sledges loaded down with all kinds of 
equipments, he never attained. The party pitched 
tent near an immense floe extending as far back as the 
eye could reach. Brainard and Frederick went back 
for the dismounted stuff, while Lockwood turned cook 
again, the first thing being to pulverize a lot of ice and 
set it on the lamp to melt. Cape Britannia and Beau- 
mont Island were very distinctly seen, the latter from 
refraction double. Their allowance of alcohol was a 
constant source of trouble. They could not afford 
meat for both breakfast and supper, hence their sup- 
per consisted of tea, cracker-dust, and bean-stew. 
Advanced twelve miles in fourteen hours. 

Lockwood and Brainard now took turns in cook- 
ing, Frederick being excused. The two former did 
not sleep well, and, as usual, the Esquimaux blew his 
trumpet loudly, but not sweetly. They left at 7 p. m. 
with full load, but as usual threw off a portion, leaving 
Brainard with it. Toward midnight they came to 
an open crack in the ice ten feet wide, through which 
sea-water could be seen below, and had to follow it 
several hundred yards before coming to a crossing. 
Thinking this a favorable chance to get a deep-sea 
sounding, they threw off the load, and Frederick went 
back for Brainard and the balance of the stores, while 



164 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Lockwood got into a sleeping-bag and read "King 
Lear " until their return. In sounding, they ran out 
all the line they had, then four coils of seal-thongs, 
then some rope, and finally Frederick's dog-whip, 
and got no bottom at eight hundred and twenty feet. 
They began to haul up after debating whether they 
should not risk the dog-traces, when, presto ! the rope 
broke, and all below was lost. Leaving their treasures 
in the deep, they moved on with half-load oyer a low 
line of hummocky ice haying the same general direc- 
tion as the crack, namely, toward Beaumont's Island. 
Beyond was an unbroken field of snow extending ap- 
parently to Cape Britannia. Ice being required for 
supper, they went into camp on the hummocks, going 
back, however, for the stores left behind, having ad- 
vanced eight miles in ten hours. 

After taking bearings, they broke camp at 4 p. m., 
and, with a full load, proceeded over the level snow- 
field, broken here and there only by hummocks trend- 
ing in a curve toward Cape Britannia. Until mid- 
night the snow-crust sustained the sledge, but after 
that, failing to do so, they had to reduce load. Wind 
and snow coming on, they camped near a small ice- 
mound, after advancing fourteen miles in fourteen 
hours, and again brought up the stores left behind. 

The next morning proved clear and calm, and gave 
them a full view of the long-desired cape, which they 
reached at 8 p. m., pitching tent on the ice-foot— 
four miles in one hour and a half. Lockwood had 
read so much of scurvy, deep snows, etc., as associated 
with sledge-journeys in the experience of the English 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 165 

expedition, that he had come to regard them as insep- 
arable from such enterprises. Yet here they were, at 
a point which Beaumont saw only from afar, without 
the first and without serious difficulty from the others. 
Cape Britannia had been the ultima Thule of Beau- 
mont's hopes, and quite as far as Lieutenant Greely 
expected Lockwood to reach. But he was able to go 
much farther, and would do so. He built a cairn, and 
deposited a record of their journey to date, also rations 
for five days for use on their return, the spare sledge- 
runner, and everything they could do without. Leav- 
ing Frederick to see that the dogs did not eat up the 
tent and everything in it, Lockwood and Brainard 
climbed the adjacent mountain, two thousand and 
fifty feet high, to view the magnificent prospect spread 
out before them from that point. "We seemed," 
Lockwood writes, "to be on an island terminating 
some miles to the north in a rocky headland. To the 
northeast, seemingly twenty miles away, was a dark 
promontory stretching out into the Polar Ocean, and 
limiting the view in that direction. Intermediate, 
were several islands separated by vast, dreary fiords, 
stretching indefinitely southward. Extending half- 
-way round the horizon, the eye rested on nothing but 
the ice of the Polar Sea ; in-shore, composed of level 
floes, but beyond, of ridges and masses of the rough- 
est kind of ice. The whole panorama was grand, but 
dreary and desolate in the extreme. After erecting a 
monument, we were glad to escape the cold wind by 
returning." 

While here, Lockwood took several astronomical 



166 FARTHEST NORTH. 

observations. They broke camp at 7 p. m., and trav- 
eled northward over smooth ice free from snow, to 
the promontory, where they came in sight of the dis- 
tant headland northeast, which they had seen from 
the mountain-top. Hearing a low, moaning sound, 
and looking to the north, they saw a line of hum- 
mocks, and near it their old acquaintance, the tidal 
crack, stretching in one direction toward Beaumont 
Island, and in the other, curving toward Black Cape, 
as Lockwood named the headland northeast of them. 
Repairing their sledge, which had given way, they 
proceeded toward this headland, having fairly good 
traveling though somewhat obstructed by soft and 
deep snow, and camped at midnight near a hummock 
and not far from the crack, from which Frederick 
tried, without success, to get a seal. This would 
have relieved his mortified feelings at the loss of a 
ptarmigan he had shot at the cape, and which Riten- 
bank had stolen. Took observations for latitude and 
longitude before turning into their sleeping-bags. 
Advanced eleven miles in five hours. 

The observations were repeated next morning, and 
they then went on their course. After going a con- 
siderable distance, they halted to rest and to view 
the tide-crack, now near them and about one hun- 
dred yards across, filled in here and there with young 
ice or detached masses. This crack was incomprehen- 
sible, differing from those seen in the straits, which 
were near shore and so narrow as to attract little at- 
tention. Frederick gave Lockwood to understand by 
signs and gestures that after a while the ice outside, 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 167 

or north of the crack, would moye off seaward. Ee- 
suming their way, they soon after passed Blue Cape, 
and thence crossing a small fiord got to Black Cape, 
the bold, rocky headland they had seen from the 
mountain. Beyond Black Cape, and in the same gen- 
eral direction, but seen indistinctly, appeared a dark, 
rocky cape, which Lockwood called Distant Cape, 
because, seeming so near, it was yet so far, as they 
afterward found. At Black Cape were seen bear- 
tracks, also those of the fox, hare, and lemming, in 
great numbers. The tide-crack here came near the 
shore, and then extended directly across to the next 
cape. The ice along shore indicated having sus- 
tained enormous pressure. Great bergs and hum- 
mocks, weighing thousands of tons, had been pushed 
upon the ice-foot like pebbles. 

The ice-foot offering better traveling, they fol- 
lowed that course, though it took them somewhat 
away from Distant Cape. Leaving it, they crossed 
what seemed to them a little bay, but it took them 
one hour and a half to reach the cape on the farther 
side. Seeing a large fiord intervening between them 
and Distant Cape which they had wished to reach 
before encamping, they gave up the effort and pitched 
their tent. Soon after, Frederick shot a hare, but 
only wounding him, they had to expend all their re- 
maining strength in running him down. But food 
was now everything, and they spared neither the hare 
nor themselves. They called that point Eabbit Point, 
in memory of the friend who served them a good turn. 

Advanced seventeen miles in ten hours. 
8 



168 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Haying, on account of a snow-storm, failed to get 
the sun on the south meridian, Lockwood waited un- 
til it should come round to the north meridian, as 
this matter of observations was important, and diffi- 
cult to attend to en route. In the mean time, they 
cached some rations. Saw some ptarmigans, but 
failed to shoot them. Left near midnight, and hay- 
ing crossed the hummocks thrust in against all these 
capes, reached the level surface of an immense bay 
which they were two and one quarter hours in cross- 
ing, after untold labor and fatigue, through deep 
snow, so wet that they seemed to be wading through 
soft clay. They reached the opposite shore, bathed in 
perspiration, Lockwood going in advance to encour- 
age the dogs. Sometimes they went down waist-deep. 
The mass of hummocks came up so near the cliffs as 
to force the travelers outside. Still, Distant Cape was 
farther on, with a fiord intervening. At four o'clock, 
they reached this long-sought point, and looked ahead 
to see what lay beyond. Away off in the same general 
direction (northeast) was seen another headland, sepa- 
rated from them by a number of fiords and capes, 
which lay on an arc connecting Distant Cape with 
that in the far distance. Inclining to the right, they 
made their way toward one of these intermediate 
capes. Sometimes seeing it and sometimes not, they 
finally reached it at 6 a. m., and, being unable to see 
anything ahead, went into camp. Soon afterward a 
pyramidal island loomed up through the storm in the 
northeast. They enjoyed part of their rabbit for sup- 
per, almost raw, for they had no alcohol to waste on 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 169 

luxuries, arid carefully laid away the other half for 
further indulgence. But Eitenbank saw that half 
rabbit stowed away, and he too liked rabbit, as will 
be seen. After supper Lockwood made observations, 
and of trials and tribulations this was not the least. 
Face chilled, fingers frozen, and sun so low as to re- 
quire him to lie in the snow ; the sun like a grease- 
spot in the heavens, and refusing to be reflected ; 
snow-drifts over artificial horizon cover ; sextant 
mirrors becoming obscure, vernier clouded, tangent- 
screw too stiff to work ; then, when one had nearly 
secured a contact, some dog interposing his ugly body 
or stirring up the snow ; such were some of the diffi- 
culties to be overcome. Still, these observations must 
be made, and carefully and correctly made, or other- 
wise the chief value of the expedition would be lost. 
They secured double sets of observations here, which 
delayed them, but got on 2 near midnight from this 
cape, which Lockwood called Low Point, and made 
good time toward the dim headland at the northeast. 
In two hours and a half they reached the cape, which 
he named Surprise, because they came upon it unex- 
pectedly looming up through the gloom. Beyond 
and to the right was seen through the storm a dome- 
capped island, the inevitable inlet intervening. The 
traveling proving good, they reached it at four, and 
found it to be the end of a long line of grand, high, 
rocky cliffs, bearing far to the south. 

The ice-foot here being free from snow, the 
dogs took the sledge along at a trot, and the ex- 
plorers rode by turns — the first time since leaving 



170 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Boat Camp. The trend of the coast-line becoming 
nearly east, Lockwood began to think the time had 
come for leaving the coast and striking off directly 
toward the pole, as arranged for in his orders. As this 
was a matter requiring full consideration, he stopped 
to get an observation, bat, defeated in this by the 
drifting snow, they went into camp at 6 A. m., having 
advanced seventeen miles in less than seven hours. 

After sleeping, Lockwood rose to take observa- 
tions. While so doing, and hence out of the tent, he 
heard a noise in it, and suspected mischief. Sure 
enough, there was that old thief, Eitenbank, coolly 
eating up the remains of the rabbit they had kept for 
a second feast. A dash and a blow, and the dog 
scampered off, dropping part of the animal in his 
flight. They had reached the state of not being par- 
ticular about what they ate, so they gathered up the 
remains and ate them on the spot. 

Eesuming their journey at 1 A. M., they traveled 
under a long line of high cliffs, with hills in the 
rear. The travel was excellent, but the weather 
abominable— high winds, with falling and drifting 
snow. After three hours of progress in an easterly 
course, a headland was seen obliquely to their left, 
between which and themselves lay a wide fiord. Aft- 
er an observation of the sun, they struck directly 
across this fiord for the headland in question, which 
they finally reached after repeatedly losing themselves 
in the mist and gloom. Here they stopped awhile 
to eat pemmican and view the surroundings. Found 
many rabbit-tracks, but saw none of the animals. In 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 171 

Arctic traveling, one craves warm meat, but seldom 
gets any but that which is frozen. Continuing along 
this coast over a good ice-foot, they were pleased to 
see on their left a small island with a high, narrow 
ledge, a few hundred yards long. This they reached 
and went to the north side or end of it. Mist and 
snow shutting in the land farther on, and also that 
already passed, they camped, having advanced twenty- 
two miles in nine and a half hours. 

Finding traveling so troublesome in the storm, and 
much difficulty in getting observations, Lockwood re- 
solved to remain there for better weather, all sleeping 
as much and eating as little as possible. Indeed, Brain- 
ard agreed with Lockwood that, if the easterly trend of 
the coast should continue, they had better spend their 
time in going directly north over the sea. On the 11th, 
it being still stormy and no other land in sight, they 
remained in their sleeping-bags on the island, which 
from its shape was first called "Shoe Island," but 
afterward "Mary Murray." All of them suffered 
greatly with cold feet in the mean while ; and, although 
Lockwood's feet were wrapped in blankets, furs, and 
socks, they were like lumps of ice. To husband their 
few rations, they had eaten very little of late, and 
doubtless to this may be attributed their cold feet. 
The dogs were ravenous for food. When feeding-time 
came, it was amid blows from the men and fights 
among the dogs that the distribution was made. Old 
Howler was conspicuous on these occasions. That he 
might secure all he could, he bolted ball after ball of 
the frozen mass, and then would wander around, ut- 



172 FARTHEST NORTH. 

tering the most unearthly howls while the mass was 
melting in his stomach. He was, indeed, a character. 
He had an air of utter weariness and dejection, as well 
he might, for who can be more miserable than the de- 
throned monarch, jeered, cuffed, and condemned by 
his late subjects ? One day one of the dogs swallowed 
a live lemming, and the little animal went squealing 
all the way down to the corporation. 

The weather clearing up a little the next morning, 
Lockwood took sun observations, and soon after saw a 
cape with very high land behind it, at the northeast. 
But the storm setting in again, they could not attempt 
to cross the mouth of the deep fiord intervening be- 
tween them and the cape until nearly two hours after 
midnight. The traveling being good, and aided by a 
high wind, they made good time across the fiord toward 
the cape, alternately visible and invisible, and reached 
it in two hours. This cape proved to be the extremity 
of a line of high, rocky cliffs, stretching toward the 
southeast. Here they found the ice-foot entirely 
obstructed by lines of floe-bergs and hummocks 
pressed up nearly to the foot of the cliff, and to add 
to their difficulty, the tide-crack ran here close to the 
cape. With great labor they got the dogs and sledge 
upon a hummock, thence along its surface, using the 
axe, and finally lowered them down again, and, by a 
bridge over the crack, gained a level floe half a mile 
beyond the cape. There, finding a branch crack 
twelve or fifteen feet wide, Frederick went forth to 
seek a crossing, while Lockwood and Brainard ob- 
tained a peep at the sun for position. The fog rising, 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 173 

the grandest view they had yet seen was suddenly dis- 
closed. To their right were seen the high cliffs con- 
nected with the cape just passed, bending to the 
southeast to form an inlet. Away beyond and across 
this inlet, and east of them, was the farther shore — 
a line of very high cliffs, terminating in a bold head- 
land northeast of their position. Back of the cape 
and cliffs, the land became higher and higher, till, just 
east of the travelers, stood a peak apparently four thou- 
sand feet high. Between them and the cliffs below the 
peak was seen an island of pyramidal shape and quite 
high. The explorers made good time toward it, over 
a level floe, as some hummocks and tide-cracks at the 
mouth of the inlet prevented them from going direct 
to the cape. Thence, after a short rest and a relish of 
pemmican, they took their way toward the cape, now 
standing nearly north of them. Soon the snow be- 
came so deep and soft that the sledge often sank be- 
low the slats, the dogs to their bellies, and the men to 
their knees. Fortunately, the load was very light, 
and yet, had not the deep snow soon after become 
dry and feathery, they could not have proceeded. It 
was then that Lockwood promised himself never to 
undertake another sledge- journey, a resolve afterward 
easily forgotten when in camp with a full stomach. 
Time, rest, plenty to eat, and a good smoke, some- 
times make philosophers, was the reflection recorded. 
About noon, after changing their course around an 
easterly bend of the cliff, they came to what might be 
regarded as the northern extremity of the cape, be- 
yond which lay the inevitable fiord. Here they 



174 FARTHEST NORTH 

camped on the ice-foot, below a mass of picturesquely 
colored rocky cliffs, and essayed, but failed, to get obser- 
vations. Their advance was sixteen miles in ten hours. 

On the 14fch of May, occurred a storm so violent 
that it seemed as if the tent must be blown down. 
Eitenbank took advantage of it to burrow under the 
tent and lay hold of a bag of pemmican, but a timely 
blow on his snout " saved their bacon." After dis- 
cussion with Brainard, Lockwood concluded to go no 
farther, as their remaining rations would hardly suf- 
fice to enable them satisfactorily to determine their 
present position. While waiting for the sun that this 
might be done, they improvised a checker-board from 
the chopping-board, and played some games. After 
a while, finding that the cliffs somewhat interfered 
with the observations, they moved the tent farther 
west, stopping to build a cairn, large and conspicu- 
ous, and depositing a full record of their journey and 
a thermometer. This cairn stood on a little shelf 
or terrace below the top of the cliff. Brainard also 
cut "XXX Bitters" on the highest rock of the cliff 
he could reach, Lockwood telling him he only want- 
ed to get a bottle for nothing on the strength of 
his advertisement. They were engaged until mid- 
night, chiefly in taking observations and in collecting 
specimens of rocks and vegetation. Some snow-birds 
were seen. 

The next morning the weather became warm, 
beautiful, and delightful, the sun bright and sky 
clear, and there was no wind — surely a bit of sunshine 
in a shady place. 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. 175 

They took adyantage of this to bring out hand- 
gear, foot-gear, bags, and rubber blankets to dry, 
everything having been damp or wet for nearly a 
week. Lockwood and Brainard got but a few short 
naps after supper, for it was necessary for one of them 
to be awake to insure their getting up at the right 
time to take "double altitudes," etc. They secured 
a complete set of observations, thirty-six in all. A 
few hours later, Lockwood and Brainard started to 
make the ascent of the cliffs and of the height beyond. 
They gained a considerable elevation, and stood on a 
little plateau overlooking both sides of the promon- 
tory, the sea, and a large extent of mountainous coun- 
try to the south thickly covered with snow. Lock- 
wood unfurled Mrs. Greely's pretty little silk flag to 
the breeze, and felt very proud that, on the 15th day 
of May, 1882, it waved in a higher latitude than was 
ever before reached by man. By careful astronomical 
observations under peculiarly favorable circumstances, 
they found themselves in latitude eighty-three 

DEGREES AND TWENTY-FOUR AND A HALE MINUTES 
NORTH, LONGITUDE FORTY DEGREES AND FORTY-SIX 
AND A HALF MINUTES WEST OF GREENWICH, thus 

surpassing the English, who sent the Nares Expedi- 
tion of 1875-'76, costing upward of a million dollars, 
for the express purpose of reaching the north pole, 
and which expedition sent its chief sledge-party di- 
rectly north over the ice for the purpose of making 
latitude alone. The view from their lofty station 
was grand beyond description. At their feet, toward 
the east, was another of those innumerable fiords, 



176 FARTHEST NORTH. 

a bald headland forming its farther cape, bearing 
northeast. Seemingly projecting from its foot was a 
low point of land, doubtless separated from another 
by still another fiord. This was as far as Lockwood 
could see in that direction — probably fifteen miles. 
Thence round toward the north and in the direction 
of Cape Britannia lay the vast Polar Sea, covered 
with ice and desolate in the extreme. Toward the 
south lay a yast panorama of snow-capped mountains, 
so overlapping and merging one into another that it 
was impossible to distinguish the topography of the 
country. They stayed on the top only twenty min- 
utes, and at 4. 50 reached camp again, greatly to the 
delight of Frederick. He had seemed a good deal 
" down at the mouth " of late, which Brainard thought 
was caused by their long distance from home and the 
absence of dog-food and "skaffer." Hastily packing 
up their small load, they started on their return at 
5.30 p. M. Though taking a more direct course across 
the first fiord, they met with soft snow, which was 
very tiresome to pass through. The weather now 
commenced to cloud up again, threatening another 
storm. It was yery fortunate that they reached their 
farthest just in time to take advantage of the thirty 
hours of fine weather. However, they were now 
homeward bound, and did not care for storms or any- 
thing else, provided they could "move on" nor did 
they require any policeman to help them in that par- 
ticular. 

And now that Lockwood is returning from his 
special expedition in safety and good health, a few 



EXPEDITION TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND. Iff 

additional facts and a passing reflection on his exploit 
will not be out of place. Lieutenant Lockwood's 
motives in undertaking this special expedition, in 
which he was so successful, he explained in these 
words: "My great wish is to accomplish something 
on the north coast of Greenland which will reflect 
credit on myself and on the expedition. But there 
are many ifs in the way — many visible contingen- 
cies on which success depends, as well as many in- 
visible ones which have never suggested themselves. 
Among the former, scurvy stands like a giant, and if 
this giant attacks us, far from accomplishing anything, 
we may not ourselves get back." As we think of Lock- 
wood, at the end of his journey, with only two compan- 
ions, in that land of utter desolation, we are struck with 
admiration at the courage and manly spirit by which 
he was inspired. Biting cold, fearful storms, gloomy 
darkness, the dangers of starvation and sickness, all 
combined to block his icy pathway, and yet he perse- 
vered and accomplished his heroic purpose, thereby 
winning a place in history of which his countrymen 
may well, and will be, proud to the end of time. 
Of all the heroic names that have blossomed on the 
charts of the Arctic seas during the present century, 
there is not one that will hereafter be mentioned with 
more pride and enthusiasm than that identified with 
Lock wood Island, memorable as the nearest point to 
the north pole ever reached by man. 



XII. 

FKOM LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY 
FKAISTKLW BAY, 

Wheis" returning to Lady Franklin Bay, Lock- 
wood and his companions* reached Shoe Island short- 
ly after midnight. They deposited a record in the 
cairn there, and proceeded to the cape west of the 
island, where they went into camp, after a retreat 
of twenty miles in eight hours. Lockwood suffered 
much from his eyes, having evidently strained them 
while endeavoring to see the sun during the late 
stormy weather. The cold food, upon which alone 
they could depend, seemed to weaken the stomachs 
of all the party, and yet they plodded on. At Storm 
Cape, they left the grand line of cliffs behind, and took 
a compass course across the great fiord, amid a storm 
as before when they crossed that inlet. As usual, 
the dogs thought they knew best, and Frederick 
thought he knew best, so the compass received little 
consideration, and they inclined too much to the left, 
being three hours and twenty minutes in crossing. 
They stopped at a cairn and deposited a record. In 
another hour they reached Pocket Bay, and in an- 
other, Dome Cape, and then, crossing the inlet, went 
into camp. "Skaffer" was soon ready, cold choco- 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FEANKLIN BAY. 179 

late, and a stew with lumps of ice floating round 
in it, particularly unfortunate after a march which 
was perhaps the most uncomfortable of the trip. It 
had been blowing and snowing all day directly in 
their faces — very severe on snow-blind eyes, which it 
was necessary in crossing the fiords to keep open in 
order to see the way. In addition to this, strange to 
say, Lockwood suffered with cold hands. Generally, 
while traveling, they were warm enough, and only 
got cold when stopping ; but on that day they were 
aching with cold a great part of the time. The dogs 
had eaten up his seal-skin mits some time before, 
and the woolen ones gave little protection against the 
storm, with the mercury 30° below zero. They found 
the ice-foot now generally covered with snow, but 
they retreated twenty-seven miles in eight hours and 
forty minutes. Left camp shortly after 5 p. m., and, 
passing Cape Surprise, struck directly across the fiord 
for Distant Cape. When opposite their old camp at 
Low Point, a glacier was seen in the interior, a green 
wall of ice lying at the foot of what looked like a low, 
dome-shaped hill, but which must have been a mass 
of ice covered with snow, as is all the interior of this 
country. The travel over the floe was quite good, 
but when just beyond Distant Cape, they found them- 
selves in the deep snow of the wide fiord to the west 
of it, a part of the route they had been dreading for 
some time. They finally, however, reached the far- 
ther side. The dogs must have smelled the pemmi- 
can in cache there, for, during the last two hundred 
yards, they bent all their energies to the work and 



180 FARTHEST NORTH. 

seemed wild to get ashore. They pulled the sledge 
through a fringe of hummocky ice at the coast in 
a way that proved how they could pull when they 
set their hearts on business. The weather during 
the day was variable. When they started, it was 
quite thick, and the wind blew strongly in their faces, 
making the traveling very disagreeable ; but toward 
the latter part of the march, the wind died away and 
the sun appeared. The traveling was better than 
when outward bound, the late storm having improved 
it very much. Brainard did all the cooking, Lockwood 
chopping the ice and assisting in various ways. They 
got off a little after six, and in two hours were at 
Black Cape. Here they stopped awhile and built a 
cairn, and at Blue Cape stopped again. The next 
four and a half hours they pursued their monotonous 
course across the floe, Lockwood indulging in these 
reflections : " What thoughts one has when thus plod- 
ding along ! Home and everything there, and the 
scenes and incidents of early youth ! Home, again, 
when this Arctic experience shall be a thing of the 
past ! But it must be confessed, and lamentable, it 
is, as well as true, that the reminiscences to which my 
thoughts oftenest recur on these occasions are con- 
nected with eating — the favorite dishes I have en- 
joyed — while in dreams of the future, my thoughts 
turn from other contemplations to the discussion of 
a beefsteak, and, equally absurd, to whether the stew 
and tea at our next supper will be hot or cold." 

They next camped some miles from North Cape, 
opposite the immense fiord there, which runs inland 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 181 

an interminable distance without visible land at its 
head. Lockwood had intended going up this fiord to 
what seemed like the opening of a channel on the 
south side of Cape Britannia, but the uncertainty and 
their fatigue finally induced him to continue the way 
they had come, the weather being delightful. Eiten- 
bank went about all day with his head and tail down, 
perhaps repenting his numerous thefts. Advanced 
seventeen miles in eight hours. 

Left camp at 6 p. m., and in about three hours 
reached North Cape, where they stopped some time 
to take a sub-polar observation, making its latitude 
82° 51'. Cape Britannia was reached without event, 
and there they stopped long enough to get the rations 
left in cache, and deposit a record, in the cairn ; then 
continued on the floe a half-mile to get out of the 
shadow of the mountain. At the cairn they got the 
snow-shoes left there, and the spare sledge-runner. 
They also collected some specimens of the vegetation 
and rocks, and saw traces of the musk-ox, showing 
that these animals wander even this far north. They 
saw also some snow-birds. They had thought that 
when they reached Cape Britannia they would feel 
near home ; but now having reached it, the station 
seemed as far off as at any point they had left behind, 
and they could not rest until Cape Bryant was reached. 

The sun was very bright and warm when they left 
camp at 9.50 p. m., but a heavy fog hung like a cur- 
tain on the horizon, and shut out the land all around. 
They were, in fact ; traveling on the Polar Sea, out of 
sight of land. Shortly after starting, Lockwood put 



182 FARTHEST NORTH. 

on snow-shoes to try them, and found immense relief 
at once. He blamed himself every day for a week for 
not having tried them during the journey out, and 
thus saved himself many hours of the most fatiguing 
travel through deep snow. Bramard, seeing the advan- 
tage, put on the other pair, and from that time there 
was nothing about which they were so enthusiastic as 
the snow-shoes. They afterward wore them more or 
less every day. At 6 A. M. they went into camp on 
the floe. The fog by this time had disappeared, and 
everything was singularly bright and clear. Advanced 
sixteen miles in eight hours, and got off again a little 
after 8 A. M. 

It was a beautiful day, calm and clear, and the sun 
was really too warm for dogs and men. They got 
along very well, however, on the snow-shoes, and one 
of the men keeping ahead to encourage the dogs and 
make a straight course, they finally reached, at the 
place they had crossed before, their old friend, the 
tidal crack, now frozen over. They lunched regularly 
every day on pemmican and hard bread, and rested 
whenever tired. A beautiful parhelion was seen, one 
of the most complete yet observed, in the perfection of 
its circles and the brightness of its colors. The blue, 
yellow, and orange were very distinct. They went 
into camp after four, the weather cloudy and threat- 
ening snow, having advanced sixteen miles in eight 
hours. They left again at 8. 40 p. m. Snow falling, and 
no land being in sight, they kept near the right course 
by means of the compass. Their course was north- 
west (magnetic), the variation being in the neighbor- 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 183 

hood of ninety degrees. Went into camp near St. 
George's Eiord at 4.40 A. m., suffering a good deal 
from snow-blindness afterward. During the march 
were troubled very little, strange to say. Eations 
were now getting low. The snow was very soft, 
and, owing to this and the warm sun, the dogs 
"complained" a good deal. Advanced sixteen miles 
in eight hours. Started off again at 8.40 p. M., 
reached shore shortly after twelve, about three quar- 
ters of a mile short of Cape Bryant, and, following 
the coast, pitched tent at the old camping-ground. 
After visiting the cairn on the hill, they determined 
to make up arrears by having a royal feast — antici- 
pated for many days. " How nice that English 
bacon must be ! How superior that English pem- 
mican to the abominable lime-juice pemmican ! " 
Brainard made a generous stew out of the afore- 
said, with a liberal allowance of desiccated pota- 
toes, etc., and they "pitched in!" But oh! what 
disappointment ! Before eating a half-dozen spoon- 
fuls they came to a dead halt, and looked at each 
other. Even Frederick stopped and gazed. The 
dish was absolutely nauseating. "Oft expectation 
fails, and most where most it promises." Fortunate- 
ly, there was left there a tin of frozen musk-ox meat, 
with other stores rendered surplus by the supporting 
party being able to go no farther. After this feast on 
the English stores, they confined themselves to the 
musk-ox. The English pemmican, though a little 
musty, when eaten cold was quite palatable. This 
and the bacon were each put up in metallic cases. 



184: FARTHEST NORTH. 

The bacon they subsequently found to be inclosed in 
talloiv, and this it was that made their feast so disap- 
pointing. After this they all went to look for Lieu- 
tenant Beaumont's cache, left here when his party 
was disabled by scurvy. The search was unsuccess- 
ful, although they traveled the coast for two miles 
and a half, advancing twelve miles in four hours. 
Getting up at twelve, Lockwood and Brainard went 
out to the tide-crack about half a mile from shore, 
and, by means of a rope and stone, undertook to get 
a set of tidal observations. They kept up the ob- 
servations for nearly twelve hours, and then becom- 
ing satisfied that their arrangements did not register 
the tide, owing to the depth, currents, etc., gave it 
up, much disappointed. All their work went for 
nothing. These observations made their eyes much 
worse, and both suffered with snow-blindness all the 
rest of the way. 

While thus occupied, the dogs took advantage of 
their absence to visit the cache and eat up part of a 
sack of hard bread and half a dozen shot-gun car- 
tridges — the shot and the brass being rather indigesti- 
ble. They left camp after midnight and a beautiful 
morning followed, calm and clear, the sun unpleas- 
antly warm ; and no wonder, since Lockwood was 
wearing three heavy flannel shirts, a chamois-skin 
vest, a vest of two thicknesses of blanket (double all 
round), a knitted guernsey and canvas frock, besides 
two or three pairs of drawers, etc. 

They tramped along on snow-shoes, and a couple 
of hours after starting, Brainard, who was on the 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 185 

hill-side to the left, discovered, with his one unband- 
aged eye, relics of Beaumont — an old Enfield rifle, a 
pole shod with iron, a cross-piece of a sledge, three or 
four articles of underwear, some cartridges, sewing- 
thread and thimble, and the remains of a shoe with 
a wooden sole about an inch thick. Other articles 
mentioned by Lieutenant Beaumont in his journal 
were not to be found. They may have been carried 
off by animals or buried in the snow near by. The 
articles found were in a little bare mound near the 
ice-foot. " Poor Beaumont ! how badly he must have 
felt when he passed along there with most of his party 
down with scurvy, dragging their heavy sledge and 
heavier equipments ! " Farther on, Lockwood shot a 
ptarmigan on top of a large floe-berg thirty feet high, 
and, by taking advantage of a snow-drift and doing 
some " boosting," they secured the bird. They stopped 
at cache No. 3 (near Frankfield Bay) and took out what 
the supporting party had left there. Gave the dogs 
the lime-juice pemmican and ground beans, but it 
was only by seeming to favor first one dog and then 
another that they were induced to eat it, thus illus- 
trating the advantage of their " dog-in-the-manger " 
spirit. Went into camp on the east shore of Hand 
Bay. Their buffalo sleeping-bag now began to feel 
too warm, but was always delightfully soft and dry. 
Eyes painful. Advanced twelve miles in ten hours. 
After crossing Hand Bay they made a short stop at 
Cape Stanton. The Grinnell coast now became very 
distinct, and seemed home-like. They could see Cape 
Joseph Henry, or what they took for that headland. 



186 f FARTHEST NORTH. 

The floes off shore, consisting of alternate floes crossed 
by ridges of hummocks, made very laborious travel- 
ing. On reaching the cache near Stanton Gorge, they 
got the rations left there. The traveling continued 
very difficult and tiresome. On reaching the Black 
Horn Cliffs, they decided, as their old tracks were en- 
tirely obliterated, to follow along under the cliffs, 
instead of taking the wide detour they had made go- 
ing out. They got along pretty well for a while, and 
then reached a mass of hummocks and rubble-ice. 
There they found a relic of the past — a towel which 
the men had used to wipe the dishes, and had lost or 
abandoned. By dint of hard work they got through 
this bad ice, crossed the smooth, level floe adjoining, 
and then came to the next patch of rubble-ice. After 
proceeding through this some distance, the sledge 
needing relashing, Lockwood went on alone with 
the axe, making a road as he went. Found the 
site of their old camp on the shore, but, as the 
snow slope there had become impassable, he kept 
along the coast on the floe and finally found a land- 
ing several miles to the west. Sledge and all got here 
at eight o'clock, and they continued on over the snow 
slopes, passing the remains of the "Nares" sledge 
and reaching Drift Point, where they went into camp 
alongside a big floe-berg, with lots of icicles upon it 
waiting for them, having advanced twenty-two and 
a half miles in ten hours. Finding strong winds and 
snow from the west, they delayed starting till almost 
midnight. The ice-foot along this low, sloping shore 
being excellent, they made good time, in an hour 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 187 

reaching the place of their first camp on this coast. 
The melting of the floe-bergs and the fall of the snow 
had so changed the general aspect, that the place was 
hardly recognizable. At 2 A. m. they came opposite 
the break in the cliff where they had entered on the 
coast in April. They soon made out the dark object 
seen previously from this point to be a cairn, and dis- 
covered a small bay which they knew must be Eepulse 
Harbor. Crossing this bay, they reached the cairn at 
three o'clock. It was a tremendous affair, and the 
tin can inside was full of papers by Beaumont, Dr. 
Coppinger, and others. As a cold wind was blowing, 
Lockwood made a short-hand copy of the documents 
and left the originals. 

Lockwood's eyes filled with tears as he read the 
last postscript of the several which followed the main 
record of poor Beaumont. Sitting on these bare rocks 
amid snow and wind, with a desolate coast-line on one 
side, and the wide, dreary straits on the other, he 
could well appreciate what Beaumont's feelings must 
have been when he reached here with his party all 
broken down with scurvy, and, after trying to cross 
the straits and failing on account of open water, had 
no other recourse but to try and reach Thank-God 
Harbor. His last postscript reads thus : 

"Eepulse Harbor Depot, June 13, 1876.— Three 
of us have returned from my camp, half a mile south, 

to fetch the remainder of the provisions. D has 

failed altogether this morning. Jones is much worse, 
and can't last more than two or three days. Craig is 



188 FARTHEST NORTH. 

nearly helpless. Therefore we can't hope to reach 
Polaris Bay without assistance. Two men can't do 
it. So will go as far as we can and live as long as we 
can. God help us ! 

(Signed) "L. A. Beauhokt." 

He and Gray were the only ones left, and both shortly 
discovered scorbutic symptoms. 

Chilled through, Lockwood now continued along 
the coast to the west, following the ice-foot under a 
grand line of cliffs. After a while, they came to a 
narrow break or cleft in the cliffs, the gateway of 
a small mountain-torrent. It was like a winding 
and dark alley in a city, with vertical sides rising 
to the height of several hundred feet. Entering 
it, they presently came to an immense snow-drift, 
probably fifty or more feet high and filling up 
the gorge like a barricade, with another a little be- 
yond. They returned to the sledge, thoroughly satis- 
fied that Beaumont never went through that place. 
About seven they came to what seemed to be the 
" Gap Valley " of the English, a wide, broad valley, 
extending due south about three miles to a ravine. 
They therefore turned off from the coast and fol- 
lowed it, encountering a good deal of deep snow and 
bare, stony spots. At 11 A. m. they camped in the 
ravine near its head, thoroughly tired out. They 
now had only one day's food left, and it behooved 
them to make Boat Camp in another march, even 
though fifty miles off. Advanced seventeen miles in 
eleven hours. The dogs for several days had been on 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 189 

short allowance, and during their sleep tore open the 
bag of specimen rocks and stones, but fortunately 
did not chew them up as they had done the cartridges. 
Gettiag off at 3.29 and crossing the table-land, 
they struck a narrow gorge running precipitately 
down to Newman's Bay. At its head was a mountain- 
ous drift of snow, which they descended on the run ; 
then came a number of smaller drifts, completely 
blocking up the gorge, oyer which they had to lower 
the sledge by hand. Near the bay, they discovered a 
singular snow-caye one hundred feet long, and occu- 
pying the entire bed of the stream, arched through its 
whole length by beautiful ribs of snow, from which 
depended delicate snow-crystals. The entrance was 
quite small, but inside, the roof was far above their 
heads. They lost sight of its picturesqueness in the 
thought of its fitness for the burrow of a sledge- 
party. This brought them on the smooth surface of 
the bay, with familiar landmarks before and around 
them — Cape Sumner, Cape Beechy, and far in the dis- 
tance, Distant Point and the land near Franklin Bay. 
Looking back at the ravine from the bay, Lockwood 
felt sure no one would ever take this little, insignifi- 
cant, narrow gully for the route of a sledge-party, and 
that no one traveling this, or the one they took going 
out, would ever take either again in preference to going 
round Cape Brevoort. They delayed along the shore 
of the bay almost an hour, leisurely building a cairn 
and viewing the scenery, and then going on, reached 
the farther side at eight o'clock, making their last 
final retreat of ten miles in five hours and a half. 



190 FARTHEST NORTH. 

There was the whale-boat, and pitched alongside 
it, anchored down by stones and held by ropes, the 
six-man tent of the supporting party. Inside were 
Sergeants Lynn and Ralston, and Corporal Ellison, 
fast asleep. Lockwood had told Lynn to send back 
to Conger three of his party on reaching Boat Camp. 
The remaining three awaited his return. The work 
of pitching tent woke up the other party, and soon 
they heard the sound of the Polaris fog-horn (picked 
up near by), and saw three heads projecting from the 
tent, whose owners gave them a warm welcome, as 
well they might, after awaiting their return nearly a 
month at this place, the dreariest of all in that 
dreary region. The remaining stores were ransacked 
for a big feast, without regard to the rations. 
Corned and boiled beef, canned potatoes and beans, 
butter, milk, and canned peaches, made a meal fit for 
a king or for gods that had just experienced an Arc- 
tic sledge-journey. The monotonous life of these 
men had been varied only by a visit from two bears, 
and the arrival of Dr. Pavy — sent by Lieutenant 
Greely with some rations. - 

The news from the station was that Dr. Pavy with 
Sergeant Rice and Esquimaux Jans had got only as 
far as Cape Joseph Henry, when they were stopped by 
open water. Lockwood had taken it for granted that 
the doctor would attain Markham's latitude and excel 
his own. Lieutenant Greely had been west from Eort 
Conger on a trip of twelve days in the mountains, 
and had discovered a large lake with a river flowing 
out of it, which had no ice on its surface — something 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 191 

very wonderful. The vegetation had also shown a 
much milder atmosphere than anywhere else in these 
latitudes. Numerous Esquimaux relics had been 
found, and many musk-oxen seen. 

Turning their backs on the Boat Camp, and with 
many loud blasts on the Polaris fog-horn, they 
started at 11.25 p. m. for Fort Conger. 

The snow along the snow-slopes was badly drift- 
ed, but with so many to help, they got along with- 
out much delay and soon reached Cape Sumner. 
They found the rubble-ice south of that point worse 
than before, and here and there were little pools of 
water. The weather was very thick, the wind blow- 
ing and snow falling, and the farther side of the 
straits completely hidden, so that they went via 
the Gap, but there had to leave the shore and di- 
rect their course as well as possible by compass. 
Presently they could see neither shore, and got into 
a mass of rubble-ice, mixed with soft snow-drifts. 
Lynn and party (Ealston and Ellison) had not trav- 
eled any for so long that they began to get very 
much fatigued, and could not keep up with the 
sledge. They had not slept since the arrival at the 
Boat Camp, owing to the excitement of the occasion. 
The driving snow hurt their eyes, and they were a 
very sorry party. However, they kept on, and finally 
came in sight of the west coast, and some hours after- 
ward, finding good floes to travel over, a little be- 
fore noon reached the "tent on the straits" — about 
five miles from Cape Beechy — Ellison and Ealston 
completely exhausted. 
9 



192 FARTHEST NORTH, 

En route again, they spread the American flag on 
a long pole and carried it thus till they reached the 
station. At the snow-house, where they remained 
some hours to rest and get something to eat, they 
found Ellis and Whistler, who had come up from 
Fort Conger to look out for the party. 

All found their eyes more or less affected except- 
ing Frederick. Ealston's were so bad that he was sent 
on in advance, led by Ellis. He walked almost the 
whole way with his eyes closed. Lynn held on to 
the upstanders of the sledge, and thus found his 
way. 

On the first day of June, Ealston and Lynn went 
in advance, led by Ellis and Ellison. They could not 
see at all, and, as their guides carried the guns and 
each had his man made fast by a strap, they looked 
very much like a party of prisoners. At Watercourse 
Bay they met Lieutenant Greely, who had come out 
to meet them, and was well satisfied with the result 
of the expedition, and soon after they reached Fort 
Conger. 

Lieutenant Lockwood not only received many 
hearty congratulations from his companions, but 
even the weather, as if in sympathy with the gen- 
eral gladness, became bright and cheerful. The im- 
portant business of working out the latitude that 
had been attained was now proceeded with. Efforts 
were made to verify the prismatic compass which 
was serviceable, but had a limited range. Much of 
the ground around the station was bare of snow, 
and, as the temperature was rising rapidly, Lock- 



LOCKWOOD ISLAND TO LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 193 

wood felt as if lie would like to be off again on a 
wild tramp. When he said something about certain 
sledge operations in the future, Greely replied, "If 
you are content to go, I will give you all the help I 



\ r 9 



XIII. 
WAITING AND WATCHING. 

To a man of Lockwood's character, the return to 
the station did not mean that idleness was to be the 
order of the day, and while yet suffering from rheu- 
matic pains in his back, shoulders, legs, feet, and 
joints, he began to mark out a trip for himself 
through Lady Franklin Bay. In the mean time, 
some of the men were off trying to obtain fresh meat, 
Frederick killing a hare and Jans a seal weighing 
over five hundred pounds. Kislingbury amused him- 
self with a pet owl, which delighted him with a pres- 
ent of eggs. On the 9th of June, the people at the 
station celebrated the birthday of their companion 
Long by a good dinner, and on the following day 
Lockwood, accompanied by his friends Brainard and 
Frederick, started with a dog-train for his proposed 
tramp. They made their first halts at Basil Norris 
Bay and at Sun Bay, and traveling over a level bed 
of what had once been a fiord, thence passed on to 
Stony Point, and then to Miller's Island, where they 
encamped. Although they saw a number of seals, 
they succeeded in killing only a couple of hares and a 
brace of brants. Their next stopping-place was Kep- 
pel's Head, the route being very wet, in fact, almost 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 195 

a continuous lake. Haying nothing to wear but his 
moccasins, Lockwood's feet were saturated three 
minutes after starting, and became so cold that he 
thought they would freeze. The pools were some- 
times so deep as to wet the load on the sledge. How- 
ever, the dogs made good time, and they reached 
Keppel's Head at 11 p. m. Here the traveling be- 
came much better, and they were able to avoid a good 
many of the pools. 

Passing Keppel's Head, they kept a sharp lookout 
for Hillock Depot, where Lieutenant Archer, R. J$., 
had left a large number of rations. They searched 
for some time before finding any signs, but finally 
found the cac7ie, and near by some pieces of United 
States hard bread, and a little bag of American tea. 
This was interesting, as proving that to have been the 
farthest that Long attained, although he claimed to 
have reached the head of the fiord. The unpleasant 
task then devolved on Lockwood of taking him down 
a peg or two. Lieutenant Archer was a week reach- 
ing this place, Hillock Depot, half-way up the fiord, 
which is about sixty miles long. The scenery is 
grand. High cliffs, generally nearly vertical, ran 
along the shores everywhere. Whenever they looked 
inland they saw a lofty mass of snow-covered mount- 
ains. All this was so common, however, in all the 
region, that it was only when neio that it was appre- 
ciated. Lockwood and Brainard had a good laugh 
at Long's expense, and then turned into the two-man 
summer sleeping-bag, made of two blankets, trimmed 
off so as to weigh no more than necessary, and inclosed 



196 FARTHEST NORTH. 

in another bag of light canyas. Their breakfast con- 
sisted of corned beef, baked beans, tea, hard bread, and 
butter — a yery fine repast. Lockwood and Brainard 
both thought that this kind of traveling did not pay 
on a "picnic" excursion, but, as they had started to 
go to the head of the fiord, they did not like to turn 
back. The ice promised to be worse on their return, 
and this, and Lockwood's lame foot, and the lameness 
of one of the dogs, decided him to return. Leaying 
camp on return, they soon reached Keppel Head, and 
afterward Basil Norris Bay, where they camped, and 
decided to remain a day or two and haye a hunt 
for musk-oxen. Mud, water, and "sludge," as well 
as Lockwood's lameness, proyed a drawback to his 
success; but Frederick returned from his tramp, 
bringing along a quarter of a musk-ox, haying killed 
two and wounded a third, he said. They seemed to 
haye cost two dozen cartridges, and he had probably 
stood off at a distance and bombarded them. 

Brainard returned after him. He had been up the 
yale as far as the lake, and had seen a few geese and a 
rabbit. He brought back a "skua" bird and some 
Esquimaux relics ; had seen several circles of stone, 
marking the summer camps of these people, and 
picked up a good many bones, etc. All had some- 
thing to eat, when the two started out with the dog- 
team for the musk-oxen killed by Frederick. Then 
came on a heavy rain, lasting for several hours, while 
the snow and ice were fast disappearing. This was 
the first rain they had seen in the country. 

During their absence from the station, to which 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 197 

they returned with their game, seyen musk-oxen had 
been killed and four calves caught alive. The men 
had had an exciting time. The animals formed a 
hollow square with the calves inside, and did some 
charging before they were all down. 

The calves had been put in a pen a short distance 
from the house, were very tame, and it was supposed 
little difficulty would be found in raising them. They 
ate almost anything. 

On the 17th, Lockwood expressed his feelings as 
follows : " I find myself oppressed with ennui, caused, 
I suppose, by the present monotonous existence fol- 
lowing the activity of my life since the early spring." 

On the 22d of June, a " turn-stone " (a bird of the 
snipe species) and two or three ducks were shot. The 
little stream back of the house was babbling along at 
a great rate, the snow fast disappearing. Tempera- 
ture 44°, which was about as high as it was likely to 
be, the sun having reached its greatest northern de- 
clination, and the temperature not having gone above 
this during the previous August. 

On the 24th, Lieutenant Greely and a party left 
for Hazen Lake and beyond, to visit the western coast 
of the country if possible. In the mean time, the dogs 
having attacked the young musk-oxen, came near 
killing one of them. The dog King and two others 
were found on top of "John Henry," the smallest 
of the calves, and, but for Frederick happening to see 
them and going to the rescue, "John Henry" would 
soon have surrendered his ghost. 

During a walk on the 28th, Lockwood found North 



\ I P 



198 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Valley Eiver quite full, and rushing along like a 
mountain-torrent. Open water-pools were numerous 
near the shore. Had a fine view from Cairn Hill, two 
thousand feet high, seeing extensive lanes of open 
water toward Petermann's Fiord. Weather delight- 
ful. 

On the 1st of July they had the second rain of the 
season, and Lockwood was gloomy ; existence ex- 
tremely monotonous ; he was almost ashamed to con- 
fess how "blue" he felt. Ducks and other fowl 
brought in almost daily ; also Esquimaux relics fre- 
quently brought in. Men arrived from Lieutenant 
Greely's party on Lake Hazen and reported all well 
there. He had found many interesting relics, and 
had seen large droves of musk-oxen — between two 
and three hundred — in Black Yale. On the 4th the 
men at the station celebrated the day by displays of 
flags, shooting and other matches, and a base-ball 
game. They succeeded in getting the Lady Greely 
afloat, and Cross repaired pipes found to be out of 
order. They found that the flies were blowing their 
fresh meat badly. Fearing that it might be lost, it 
was ordered to be served more frequently. Long and 
Ellis, who had returned from St. Patrick's Bay, re- 
ported it as open. 

Lieutenant Greely and party returned on the 10th 
from Lake Hazen. They had a good view westward 
for fifty miles from a mountain four thousand feet 
high ; saw no sea, but many glaciers. Found a large 
river entering the lake at its southwestern extremity. 

Lockwood took the launch down to Dutch Island, 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 199 

giving all the men an excursion. But for entertain- 
ments of this sort he was afraid he should forget how 
to talk. The officers often went through a meal 
without exchanging a word ; so also through the day. 
He could not say who was in fault. 

Loose ice was still filling the harbor and bay — 
paleocrystic floes that had floated in. 

Brainard and Cross brought in eleven ducks killed 
at Breakwater Point, having to swim in order to get 
them. 

Weather now mild, ice in harbor much broken up, 
and channel outside open. Lieutenant Greely thought 
there was every reason for expecting a relief-ship 
soon. It was very desirable on many accounts that 
she should come. A false alarm of her approach 
created great excitement. Some one said he saw her 
smoke in the distance. 

The hunters brought in ducks or other game al- 
most daily. A weasel was shot near the house — a 
beautiful little animal, yellow with black tail. Dead 
wolves were sometimes found — probably those poi- 
soned in the winter. Brainard, Cross, and Ellis re- 
turned from Beechy, where they killed three musk- 
oxen, two dozen geese, and some ducks. 

Lockwood occupied himself on his maps of the 
Greenland coast, adding pictures of scenery from 
sketches taken en route. 

Jans, desiring to capture seals, tried to approach 
them by interposing a cotton screen. But the seal 
had too much sense to wait for him, and slipped off 
the ice into the water. 



AIT 



200 FARTHEST NORTH. 

On the 31st, Lockwood measured some ice-floes 
aground in the harbor, finding them to be fourteen 
feet thick. He had seen many on his northern trip 
which, by Nares's rule of one seventh above water, 
would have been thirty-five to forty-five feet thick. 
Of course, these were paleocrystic floes, the accumu- 
lation of years. 

On the 7th of August, Lockwood went with Lieu- 
tenant Greely and a party in the launch to Cape 
Lieber, finding the bay very free from ice. Left near 
the cape some provisions for use in case of having to 
retreat next year in boats, a subject which, from the 
non-arrival of the ship, was then agitated. They got 
many Esquimaux relics. The straits away down as 
far as Franklin Island and Cape Constitution, as seen 
from an elevation, were free from ice. They could 
see nothing to prevent the ship from coming. Re- 
turned in the evening, landing at Proteus Point, be- 
cause a large floe-berg had floated in during their ab- 
sence and occupied their harbor. 

Lieutenant Greely did not expect the ship before 
the 15th. Many eyes were daily fixed on the bold 
profile of Cape Lieber, from behind whose rocky face 
she must emerge, if she came at all. 

On the 13th, Lockwood, with Brainard, Lynn, 
Cross, Ralston, and Fredericks, started in the launch 
on an excursion up Lady Franklin Bay to the head 
of Archer Fiord, having in tow the boat Valorous 
with Rice and crew as far as Musk-ox Bay. There 
they left Rice and his boat and proceeded up the 
Archer Fiord, somewhat annoyed by scattered ice and 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 201 

by some large bergs which they had to go around. 
They had not gone far up the fiord before they saw, 
on a gentle slope of the southern shore, a herd of 
musk-oxen grazing a few hundred yards from the 
water. Though strategy was employed to approach 
without being seen, the herd took the alarm and 
scampered oyer the hills which terminated the slope. 
Lynn, anticipating this, had gone some way up these 
heights, but the animals by a detour avoided him and 
soon passed oyer the crest of the heights. The slope 
along there was sufficiently gentle to aiford foothold 
to grass and willows, and thus presented a landscape 
charming to those who had gazed on little other than 
rocks and ice for so many months. Seeing two other 
oxen some time after, near a steep hill overlooking a 
rocky gorge, Lockwood, Brainard, and Frederick 
went for them, Fredericks approaching in front, and 
Lockwood and Brainard, by a flank movement, cut- 
ting off retreat. This resulted in the slaying of both 
animals. But how to get them to the launch was the 
question, as they were then a mile inland. Finally, 
cutting off the heads, they gave the bodies an impetus 
down-hill. They went from steep to steep like com- 
ets, leaving clouds of dust behind. Once or twice 
they lodged on steps or terraces, from which they 
were dislodged, thence to renew their journey down- 
ward. Afterward several other musk-oxen and some 
ptarmigans were shot, thus providing abundant food 
for all hands, with a large surplus to carry back to the 
station. 

As they progressed up the fiord, the scenery be- 



202 FARTHEST NORTH. 

came more and more grand and interesting. A gla- 
cier was seen some distance inland, at the head of a 
stream bordered by yertical cliffs curiously colored 
and of fantastic shapes. One pinnacle was apparently 
surmounted by an old dilapidated castle. Though 
the fiord was not wide at Bulley's Lump, nor the cliffs 
yery high, yet they encountered a furious wind, as 
though blowing vertically. Toward the head of the 
fiord, they saw numerous ducks and flocks of geese on 
shore, apparently overcome by the force of the wind. 
Many of these they added to their abundant stores. 
Here, too, they found Esquimaux relics, indicating 
the abodes of men long years ago — circles of stones, 
yery old ; also pieces of drift-wood, whence coming 
they marveled. Beaching the head of the fiord, where 
the water became shallow, they landed, spread their 
sleeping-bags on the rocks, and made amends for their 
twenty-five hours' want of sleep. 

Waking up, they found that the receding tide 
had left them high and dry by one quarter of a 
mile. This rendered Lockwood very uneasy, and in- 
duced him to give up his intended journey of half a 
dozen miles into the interior. He went, however, a 
mile or so inland, and from a height saw a lake, and 
several miles above it a glacier, apparently very large. 
Vast cliffs, three thousand feet high, bordered the 
valley or ravine he followed, and beyond these were 
snow and ice clad summits of vast elevation. Yet 
here, in this desolate region, were seen proofs of the 
abode of man — circles of stones covered with lichens, 
a proof of their antiquity. Here, also, he found the 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 203 

hip-bone of some immense mammal, and afterward 
added it to his museum. He returned to the launch 
near the time of high tide, and after lightening, they 
got the launch into deep water, with much labor, but 
greatly to their relief. On their return they visited 
Eecord Point, left a short account of their visit, and 
copied that of Lieutenant Archer. He had explored 
this fiord in 1876, occupying one month, but they did 
it in sixty-nine hours. He traveled with sledges and 
a supporting party— they with a steam-launch, all 
being on board. Their coal getting low, they made 
few other stops en route except to pick up their meat 
and game, returning direct to the station. The re- 
sult of the expedition, as to game, was, twelve musk- 
oxen, three hares, twenty-four geese, thirty-six turn- 
stones, six knots, three terns, and twenty ptarmigans. 
Distance made, going and returning, one hundred and 
forty miles. Long and others killed numbers of 
musk-oxen during their absence, so that they now 
had on hand about eight thousand pounds of fresh 
beef. Another musk-ox was killed, soon after their 
return, in full view of the house, and thus four hun- 
dred and thirty pounds were added to their stock. 
This was the eightieth musk-ox shot since their ar- 
rival, the year before. They had a good view of the 
bay and straits, both of which seemed open, offering 
no obstacle whatever to the passage of the ship. 
They were all very much disappointed at her non-ap- 
pearance. 

Lieutenant Greely, wanting Howgate's Fiord ex- 
plored and surveyed, and Dr. Pavy wishing to make 



\ i 



204 FARTHEST NORTH. 

an excursion from Cape Baird, Lockwood, on the 
21st, left in the launch, with Bice, Cross, Lynn, Fred- 
ericks, Snyder, and Israel, and with Dr. Pavy and 
Ellison as passengers, to land the doctor on the south 
shore, and thence proceed westward to Howgate's 
Fiord. Following a lead westward, they finally found 
open water, which enabled them to reach the south 
shore of the bay some five miles above Cape Baird, 
where they landed the doctor and Ellison, with their 
rations, etc. In crossing the open water, they had 
strong south winds, and heavy seas which boarded the 
launch and washed her from stem to stern. Though 
much strengthened against ice, when heavily laden 
she sat too near the water to be a comfortable sea-boat. 
Thence they proceeded to Miller Island, where they 
had smooth water, and were enabled to cook their food 
and enjoy an excellent meal. They found much ice 
in Howgate's Fiord, yet, after trying to kill a musk- 
ox seen on shore, made their way to Ida Bay, at its 
head, and proceeded to the north shore, for Israel to 
lay out his base-line and take angles, and Bice to take 
photographs of prominent objects. While they were 
so doing, the others started in pursuit of a musk-ox 
some distance from the shore. The animal, seeing 
them, went up the valley at a rapid rate, leaving be- 
hind him so strong a musk odor as to mark his wake 
as distinctly by the smell as that of a steamboat is 
marked by the eye. Lockwood abandoned the chase 
for other duties, but the men kept on, and afterward 
brought in the animal's carcass. These having re- 
turned, and Israel and Bice having finished their 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 205 

work, all proceeded toward a yery high, and con- 
spicuous promontory, marking the entrance to the 
bay, which Lieutenant Greely wished Lockwood to 
ascend, and afterward go up the northern arm of 
the fiord; but they were unable to do either, hay- 
ing been brought to a full stop in the narrow channel 
by an immense floe of old ice. They therefore re- 
turned out of this cul-de-sac to the south shore, 
where Israel wanted to take other angles. Here they 
found traces of Esquimaux habitations — meat caches, 
and yarious bone implements, all yery old. Thence, 
via Miller's Cape, they made their way to Stony 
Cape, not, howeyer, without great difficulty because 
of moying ice, which sometimes forced them too close 
to the island, and compelled them to make detours. 
The weather threatening, they did not stop to take 
other angles, but crossed to the head of the bay, near 
the Bellows, and cast anchor ; and, while the others 
slept, Lockwood walked up the Bellows in quest of 
game, but saw none. 

The yegetation was just sufficient to remind him 
of the glorious trees and grasses of another zone far, 
far away. Still, with all its desolation, Lockwood 
thought it a yery picturesque region, and that per- 
haps the moon, to one on its surface, presents a simi- 
lar aspect. They left for the station on the 25th, 
encountering much ice all the way. Off Cape Clear 
it whirled about in such a manner as to threaten to 
crush the launch. At one time a large piece of ice — 
larger than the launch itself — was caught between the 
moying pack and the grounded ice and thrown up 



\ i 



206 FARTHEST NORTH. 

into the air fifteen feet. Finally, they reached the 
station, sadly disappointed not to see the masts of the 
hoped-for ship. They could not divine the reason for 
her non-appearance. Dr. Pavy thought that it never 
started, for want of an appropriation. Lieutenant 
Greely thought otherwise. It looked then as though 
they would have to retreat in boats during the next 
summer, and might fail to meet the ship in the chan- 
nel ; or, on reaching Littleton Island, find she had 
not been there, and then undoubtedly all of them 
would perish. 

A fine salmon-trout of three pounds and three 
quarters was caught in a net about this time, and, 
while Eice tried to obtain more, Brainard went to 
Depot "B" on a hunt for musk-oxen and other 
game. 

On the 26th, Lockwood went across Lady Franklin 
Bay in the launch after Dr. Pavy. Saw many seals, 
but failed to secure any. Found the doctor and Elli- 
son awaiting them, forlorn enough. They had reached 
Carl Bitter Bay, seen musk-oxen, and discovered some 
lakes. Lockwood left more stores over the bay, and 
returned through much ice. It was pleasant to see 
how readily the launch cut through the young ice 
then forming in the midst of falling snow. 

On the 28th, Lieutenant Greely, desiring some 
further exploration up Ella Bay, and inland from its 
head, Lockwood and a select party made several at- 
tempts in the launch to accomplish it ; but the young 
ice was forming so rapidly, there was so much pack- 
ice, and the snow was obscuring the atmosphere so 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 207 

badly, that Lieutenant Greely, after some hesitation, 
decided they had better not go, and, instead, request- 
ed them to take the long-boat Valorous to Cape Baird 
and leave her there, and then lay up the steam-launch 
for the winter. 

This they attempted to do, but, on reaching 
Dutch Island, had to give it up, as the entire harbor, 
bay, and straits were full of drifting ice, many of the 
floes standing five feet out of water. The launch 
haying been left at anchor near the island, the next 
morning Lieutenant Greely ordered all hands down 
to the island to rescue her from impending peril. 
They found her yery much careened and half full of 
water. She had been anchored in shoal water, and, 
heeling oyer at ebb-tide, had filled at the next flood. 
Fortunately, no harm was done to the boat, which 
might yet proye to be their salvation, and should be 
got into safe winter quarters, as that season was evi- 
dently already setting in. It was after this boat 
excitement that Lockwood indulged in these reflec- 
tions : "I find myself constantly reading oyer old 
letters brought with me and received at St. John's, 
though read before again and again. The effect is 
depressing, bringing too strongly into view home and 
the dear ones there. I am oppressed with ennui and 
low spirits, and can't shake off this feeling, partly in- 
duced by the cruel disappointment of no ship." 

Subsequently he wrote, "Have been reading of 
Kane and his travels. He is my ieau ideal of an 
Arctic traveler. How pitiful that so bold a spirit 
was incased in so feeble a frame ! Why is Nature 



\ i .! 



208 FARTHEST NORTH. 

inconsistent ? In the Arctic his health seems to haye 
been fair. He of all his advance party escaped the 
scurry. It was his spirit, doubtless, that kept him 
up. Hayes does not compare with him. Though 
beautifully written, there is an air of exaggeration 
about Hayes' book, which destroys its interest. Doc- 
tor Pavy, who has hitherto been the advocate of 
Hayes, since his return from Carl Eitter Bay seems 
to have changed his mind about him, and now agrees 
with Greely and me that Hayes never reached Cape 
Lieber. To have done so, he must have performed in 
part of his journey ninety-six miles in fourteen hours 
— an impossibility. 

" The life we are now leading is somewhat similar 
to that of a prisoner in the Bastile : no amusements, 
no recreations, no event to break the monotony or 
dispel ennui. I take a long walk every day along 
shore to North Valley with that view, study French 
a little, or do some tailoring, now doubly necessary, 
as our supply of clothing is getting low. Our stock 
of reading matter, unfortunately, is limited except 
in Arctic books. One must live up here within him- 
self, and is unfortunate if dependent on others for 
happiness. The others are as moody as I am — Greely 
sometimes, Kislingbury always, and as to the doctor, 
to say he is not congenial is to put it in a very mild way 
indeed. But why not study ? Well, the atmosphere 
is not conducive to it. I must go on another sledge- 
journey to dispel this gloom. Lieutenant Greely was 
thinking of sending me to Lake Hazen to continue 
his explorations, but thinks the snow too deep. I 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 209 

will make a trip to the Bellows, and follow up the 
canon at its head. 

" The hilarity in the other room is in marked con- 
trast to the gloom in this. For several days the skat- 
ing on the young ice of the harbor, now three inches 
thick, has afforded pleasure to the men. Israel broke 
in some distance from shore, and, being unable to 
get out by himself, would have perished but for the 
aid of others who saw him after he had been in the 
cold water fifteen minutes. Biederbick is constantly 
chaffed by the men for his persistent gunning expedi- 
tions, from which he always returns empty-handed. 
He takes everything seriously, and hence resents with 
warmth any insinuations against Germany, particu- 
larly if his own little principality of Waldeck be 
assailed. Biederbick tried to poison some foxes, and 
boasted of his plans. A fox having been caught by 
some one else and killed, Henry placed the body near 
Biederbick's poison, first placing within its mouth a 
paper stating (as though written by the fox) how and 
where he met his death. Soon after Biederbick in- 
spected his poison, and finding the fox, brought him 
home in triumph. Henry gravely declared the fox had 
not been poisoned, much to Biederbick's amazement. 
They proceeded to examine the fox, and Henry pulled 
from its throat the certificate that had been placed 
there. The men around laughed at Biederbick's ex- 
pense, and he wilted." 

The foregoing allusion to Dr. Kane can not but be 
read with special interest, as it gives one an insight 
into the noble character of Lockwood, who had the 



\ i i 



210 FARTHEST NORTH. 

heart to appreciate a man like the discoverer of Grin- 
nell Land. Both, indeed, were men of rare and ex- 
alted qualities, whose memories will always he treas- 
ured with respect and affection hy the whole American 
people. 

An effort was made under Lieutenant Kislingbury 
to raise, from calves caught, a herd of tame musk- 
oxen. They became very docile and tractable, even 
to the extent of hauling in teams. The chief diffi- 
culty was to keep the dogs from them. One of these 
calves was seriously wounded by them, and was there- 
fore killed. It was rumored that its meat would be 
served for dinner, and some of the men, to carry out 
the joke, hung the quarters on the meat-rack near 
the house. When other meat was served for dinner, 
Fredericks, who had cared for the calf and named it 
John Henry, ate nothing — very proper conduct for a 
man of feeling and a hater of jokes. 

Lockwood frequently went to the observatory with 
Israel to get some insight into the workings of the 
magnetic instruments. On "term-day," the instru- 
ments were read every five minutes during the twenty- 
four hours, and for one hour every twenty seconds. 
" Poets write of the constancy of the magnetic needle," 
said Lockword, "while in fact it is the most incon- 
stant thing known. Not only does it vary yearly, but 
monthly, daily, hourly, yea, every minute and second. 
Here the magnetic disturbances are very pronounced, 
and at times the magnetic needle is apparently almost 
beside itself. The aurora, too, has frequently a very 
noticeable effect upon it." 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 211 

It was now becoming a matter for discussion that, 
should they be so unfortunate as to have to spend a 
third winter in this region, they would have to live 
on salt meat and hard bread. Dr. Pavy said they 
were already getting short of many articles of food, 
and of some they were entirely out — short of sugar 
and also of candles and foot-gear, of the latter, only 
a few pairs of cork-soled boots, unfitted for use in 
these parts, remaining. Lockwood felt that he would 
rather take any risks in boats than stay there another 
winter. 

The weather, which had been variable, having 
settled calm and clear, Lockwood started on his pro- 
posed sledge trip up the " Bellows " with Jewell, the 
Esquimaux Frederick, and an eight-dog team. Hav- 
ing young ice most of the way and no load, they made 
rapid progress to the tent at Basil JSTorris Bay. The 
dogs moved at a gallop, giving to all the rare oppor- 
tunity of a ride. Here they found sleeping-bags and 
provisions. The next morning they reached Black 
Rock Vale and followed the windings of its stream- 
bed until they came to Lake Heintzelman, a beautiful 
body of water, or rather ice, perfectly smooth and 
free from snow, filling the whole valley, some three 
miles wide, to towering cliffs, and extending about 
five miles. So smooth was the surface that the dogs 
could have pulled a ton. Feeling rather chilly, they 
all held on to the upright of the sledge behind, and 
were dragged along on the soles of their shoes. 
Reaching the head of the lake, and finding the way so 
rough as to endanger the sledge-runners, they deemed 



212 FARTHEST NORTE. 

it best to go into camp and reconnoitre before pro- 
ceeding farther. While Lockwood and Jewell got 
supper, Frederick went on a hunt for musk-oxen. 
The former afterward followed with the team to bring 
in the game which he had killed, first skinning and 
cutting it up, not an easy job, as they had only a very 
dull hatchet and equally dull case-knives. They final- 
ly succeeded, however, after much labor, and returned 
to camp at a late hour. The ox killed was the only 
one seen, although it was there — three miles above 
the lake — that a hundred had been formerly seen. 
The following morning being chilly and the sky over- 
cast, they returned to the tent at Basil Norris Bay, 
the dogs carrying the men, as well as nearly four hun- 
dred pounds of meat, over the smooth lake at a rapid 
rate. 

"While crossing they heard an unusual noise, like 
distant thunder, which at first they were unable to 
account for, but finally concluded was due to the 
cracking of the ice, arising probably from changes 
of temperature. The whole expanse of ice was marked 
by cracks extending in every direction, not, however, 
coming to the surface, but visible below. 

In returning to the station, they avoided some 
rough places by hugging the south shore of the har- 
bor, a rumbling noise of moving and crushing ice be- 
ing heard in the direction of Dutch Island. On reach- 
ing the station, they found that a large bear had visited 
the house, dragging off the skeleton of a musk-ox 
which Dr. Pavy had hung out to dry as a specimen. 
Tracks of another bear were afterward seen near the 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 213 

house. At Lieutenant Greely's request, Lockwood 
■with others followed these tracks, came in sight of 
the animal, and saw him make his way toward the 
middle of the straits through leads of open water and 
over hills of ice with seeming ease. Of course, they 
failed to add hear-meat to their well-stocked larder. 

After enjoying a hot bath, which Lockwood com- 
mended as a grand luxury, he penned the following 
from his corner in the station-house : 

" The men haye added a bagatelle-board to their 
other sources of amusement, and sometimes have 
bagatelle tournaments. Lieutenant Greely and I often 
play chess, and sometimes I take a game of checkers 
with the Esquimaux. These, by-the-way, seem much 
better reconciled than they were last winter. Prob- 
ably have come to understand us better, and we them. 

"Much of my time has been occupied in making 
maps of the several launch trips and in writing out 
stenographic notes. Still, the monotony here is dread- 
ful, and tells on all. It certainly does on me. Dr. 
Pavy and Lieutenant Kislingbury spend much of their 
time in the other room, and, when in here and Lieu- 
tenant Greely absent, are engaged in the most gloomy 
prognostications as to the future, and in adverse criti- 
cisms on the conduct of the expedition. It is really 
dreadful, and I sometimes think the life of an exile 
in Siberia preferable to this. The absence of light 
without keeps us within-doors, and the want of exer- 
cise and fresh air promotes restlessness. Our supply 
of books comprises only novels and Arctic literature. 
A few really solid books of history, biography, essays, 



i . ,i 



214 FARTHEST NORTH. 

etc., are much, to be desired, though, under the cir- 
cumstances, I suppose it would be difficult to concen- 
trate one's mind on them. 

"Our experiment with calves had to be given up. 
All died but one. Long took that to Dutch Island, 
but it would not stay. Like the human animal, the 
poor thing wanted sympathy and something to love, 
and followed him all the way back, notwithstanding 
all he could do to restrain it. Tame foxes and tame 
owls have also been given up. The former bit their 
keepers, the latter ate each other up. The dogs 
multiply rapidly, and would increase faster, but that 
the pups are eaten by the old ones. I saw the mother 
of a dead pup keeping Eitenbank from swallowing it, 
while she hesitated whether or not she would do the 
same thing herself. 

"We are again building around our house with 
ice, which proved such an addition last winter, and 
the double sashes to the windows have been put in. 
I have added a side-board to my bunk and covered 
the adjacent walls with paper, thus adding to the 
warmth. Much may be done to mitigate the evils of 
this climate. The moral and social evils are what we 
can not meet, or rather do not repel." 

Mrs. Greely's birthday was again observed, chiefly 
by a good dinner with wine furnished by Lieutenant 
Greely. Lockwood's own birthday was also cele- 
brated in like manner, when he recorded the follow- 
ing : " After dinner Lieutenant Greely and I had a 
long talk — reminiscences of army-life, speculations as 
to our retreat in boats, etc. When alone, my mind 



\ I I 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 215 

turned to the dear ones at home and the many warm 
friends I had elsewhere, and to the happy days spent 
with them. 

" My corner, which is the coldest of all the cor- 
ners, was improved by covering floor and walls with 
paper. I also found an improvement by adding side- 
boards to the bunk, and finally by converting the bed 
into a regular sleeping-bag. Before this was done, I 
sometimes became very chilly during the night after 
the fires went down. Our lamps now burn all day. 
How wearisome this constant artificial light becomes, 
we know from the experience of last winter. I dread 
it under our present social relations. Even Lieutenant 
Greely refers to these as intensifying what would other- 
wise not much distress him. My daily routine is some- 
what as follows : Breakfast at half-past seven, with 
scarcely a word spoken by any one. Then I smoke, 
standing by the stove in the cook's room. After- 
ward, tailoring or some other work. At noon, a walk 
to Proteus Point if possible. Afterward, read or sleep 
till dinner at four. Again smoke as before. Then 
a few games of chess with Lieutenant Greely or check- 
ers with the Esquimaux. Then read a little French 
or a good deal of whatever I find most interesting. 
Then to my army-bunk, to sleep till next morning, 
when the same routine is repeated." 

On the 20th, he made a trip to Depot " B " with 
some of the men and two dog-sledges to bring down 
the musk-ox meat left there in cache. They found 
the foot-ice near shore so rough that they had to keep 
well out, but still they made the eighteen miles in six 



216 FARTHEST NORTH. 

hours, which may be regarded as fair traveling with 
dogs. 

They met many bear- tracks, but old, probably made 
by the same animals that yisited the station. They 
found that these animals, and also foxes, had found 
their meat-cache and had done much damage, four 
quarters of meat and fifteen geese having been eaten 
by them or taken away. Returning next day with 
what remained, and taking in more meat at St. Pat- 
rick's Bay in still worse condition, they made their 
way home over a sea of rubble-ice. To show the 
effects of ice-movements, Lockwood observed, when 
crossing Watercourse Bay on their return, the sledge- 
tracks made the day before fifty feet in the air on top 
of floe-bergs ! 

They made a visit to some floe-bergs at the mouth 
of Lady Franklin Bay to get specimens of colored ice 
seen there on a berg. These were mostly yellow, but 
some specimens almost black. On melting, they gave 
an offensive odor, and made deposits of their color. 
Analysis only could determine the nature of the col- 
oring-matter. Young ice was measured, and found 
to be twenty inches thick. 

Lockwood would have been glad enough to be 
away from that cold region, and yet he seemed de- 
termined again to explore the north Greenland coast, 
and thought that, under favorable circumstances, he 
could go farther than he had already gone by at least 
seventy-five miles, thereby manifesting a degree of 
pluck almost unique in its character. Difficulties 
might arise to defeat his plans, but, these surmount- 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 217 

ed, all his energies and hopes would be directed to 
returning home. It was Lieutenant G-reely's opinion, 
however, that his "farthest" would not be again 
reached in the present century. 

On the 5th of November Dr. Pavy returned from 
an expedition to Carl Eitter Bay, which he had 
reached by following the valley back of Cape Lieber, 
as the ice-foot was found impracticable. The dog- 
food, or dried fish, taken, being insufficient and poor, 
one of the dogs died, and was immediately eaten by 
the others. The straits below were found quite open. 
They killed one musk-ox, but could not bring in the 
meat. On the return, so rough was the ice over the 
bay that twelve hours were required to cross from 
Cape Baird. 

The doctor urged the policy of storing provisions 
at Cape Hawkes for their boat-journey, a thing easier 
to talk about than to do, as Cape Hawkes was one 
hundred and fifty-five miles, in a straight line, south 
of Lady Franklin Bay, and it would occupy a dog- 
sledge to go and return at least one month. If any- 
thing was to be done in that direction, all thoughts of 
further exploration must be abandoned. The doctor 
predicted that a naval expedition would be sent for 
them the next year, Congress having hitherto failed 
to provide for their relief. 

In one of his tramps to Proteus Point, Lockwood's 
feet were again frosted, owing partly to his imperfect 
foot-gear, and he then became convinced that a light, 
flexible moccasin was the best thing to wear in that 
country. 



\ i .■ 



218 FARTHEST NORTH. 

For several days about the middle of November, 
there were magnetic disturbances of a pronounced 
character coincident with the storms and auroras they 
were experiencing. Storms were always indicated by 
rapid changes of barometer, but sometimes the ba- 
rometer fell and no storm followed. Auroras had 
recently been attended with varied colors, which was 
unusual, as they had formerly been uniformly white. 
A surveyor working there would find, at times, his 
compass-needle almost unmanageable. Seals were 
seen in the most unexpected places, one of them hav- 
ing been killed with a hatchet in a tide-hole. 

On the 21st, Lockwood was startled, when setting 
out on his usual walk, to see what looked like smoke 
coming from the roof of the house ; but what he mis- 
took for smoke was only the condensation of vapor 
escaping from the house. The appearance of the 
smoke coming from the chimney, and of the steam 
from the roof, projected as they were on the sides of 
the snow-covered mountains, was very pretty. The 
ice-wall around the house was a great protection, not 
only keeping the hot air in, but protecting the house 
from the furious blasts which would otherwise enter 
it, if, indeed, they did not destroy it. 

Lieutenant Greely resumed his lectures, which had 
before proved so interesting. He gave one, which 
they all admired, on the history of his native town, 
Newburyport. Israel had also assumed the role of 
lecturer on astronomy, with which he was familiar. 

When Lockwood became desperate with ennui, he 
got out his old letters and again read them, as they 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 219 

carried him back to his distant home and parents and 
sisters. He earnestly prayed that a kind Providence 
would restore him to them. This was the end of all 
his hopes. 

On the 30th of November Lockwood wrote as fol- 
lows : " This is the day Lieutenant G-reely appointed 
for thanksgiving, and thankfully should we keep it ; 
for we have not only escaped sickness and any serious 
discomforts, but we have had undoubted success in 
our efforts both scientific and geographical. We have 
had a royal feast of soup, beef, corn, Lima beans, 
pineapple-jelly, nuts, and figs." 

Contrary to his resolve, a few days later he com- 
menced reading novels. His feeling was that they 
withdraw one from one's self, which is something 
gained ; but they put one up in the clouds from 
which it is often painful to descend. They cause 
the reader to live for a time in an ideal world, and 
bring him back to the stern reality with a sense of 
disappointment. 

On the 8th of December, Lockwood was greatly 
impressed by the absence of light, and gave his views 
as follows : " It is now very dark, even at noon, ex- 
cept when we have the moon and a clear sky. Even 
on the floe, where the pure white snow reflects every 
bit of light, it is now so obscure that it is difficult to 
see the path at one's feet ; and even the outlines of the 
mountains, high above the horizon, are very dim. A 
faint gleam of twilight over the south horizon, at 
noon only, shows the direction in which the sun and 
' God's country ' lie. So dark is it that I have sev- 



\ i i 



220 FARTHEST NORTH. 

eral times stumbled oyer the dogs lying outside at the 
door ; and when in a pathway, one has rather to feel 
the way than see it, requiring the use of a lantern in 
going from the house. 

"No wonder, then, that the moon is so highly ap- 
preciated in this benighted region. How delightful it 
is, after a fortnight's absence, to haye her with us once 
again ! How a poet would raye oyer the moon could 
he once know a polar winter ! We haye her now in 
all her glory, lighting up this yast desert waste, which, 
covered with its mantle of snow and ice, now becomes 
a thing of beauty. 

"The effect of continued absence of sunlight is 
yery marked in the complexion of all the men, as well 
as in their loss of yigor. They are as blanched as 
potato-sprouts in a dark cellar. Blessed orb of light 
and life ! One can hardly imagine the one without 
the other. The moral as well as the physical influ- 
ence of sunlight is yery soon seen after the sun's reap- 
pearance, the middle of February." 

They still kept up birthdays, and the 24th was 
that of Saler, when they had a feast selected by him- 
self. The musk-ox beef was particularly good, being 
young and tender, and free from the musk flavor so 
common with old oxen. They were now used to this, 
however, and it did not trouble them. 

In the evening Lieutenant Greely brought out a 
few Christmas presents to distribute, which had not 
been issued the previous year, and there were some 
prizes of tobacco, soap, etc., raffled for. A chromo- 
picture of good "King Billy" of Prussia was given 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 221 

to Long, whose hair is somewhat red. The hair in 
the picture being of the same color, much mirth was 
elicited, as Long was sensitive about his hair, and was 
constantly chaffed by the men on that account. Lieu- 
tenant G-reely made a few appropriate remarks, refer- 
ring to the success of the expedition, and praying that 
their good fortune might continue, etc. 

The Christmas-dinner was remarkably good — one 
that might have been enjoyed anywhere. The appe- 
tites of the men and of the officers were equal to the 
occasion. Of late some of them had shown less appe- 
tite than formerly, possibly because their supplies 
showing signs of failing in a few particulars, the table 
had shown less variety. The average weight of the 
men was found to be one hundred and seventy-one 
pounds, Lockwood's weight being one hundred and 
seventy-six, embodying a good deal of caloric. 

On the 8th of January, 1883, after repairing some 
damage done to the launch by the ice, Lieutenant 
Greely announced his resolve to leave for home in 
boats not later than August 8th, and sooner, if the 
ice permitted. 

On the 23d, efforts were made to cross the bay to 
Cape Baird, but without success, the difficulties being 
the absence of light, the intense cold, and the ex- 
tremely rough ice. If was desired to open a passage 
to Cape Baird, and make a depot of provisions there 
for use on the retreat. Their first efforts carried these 
stores only to mid-channel, but afterward Sergeant 
Lynn and others carried them over to Cape Baird. 

Much of Lockwood's time was of necessity occu- 



\ i i 



222 FARTHEST NORTH. 

pied in tailoring, and he had become quite an expert. 
Service in the north not only demanded much cloth- 
ing, but the garments must be strong and warm. 
Their supply in store being somewhat limited and not 
judiciously chosen, particularly in foot- and hand- 
gear, all were from time to time engaged in repair- 
ing old garments or making new. Eice suggested a 
method of doubling the supply of woolen socks by 
cutting off the legs of long stockings and sewing up 
the bottoms of the leg part. For his proposed spring 
trip, Lockwood was counting upon a rig consisting of 
two merino shirts, three flannel shirts, one chamois 
yest, one vest made of two thicknesses of army- 
blanket, one woolen Jersey, one swan-skin cloth over- 
shirt, one pair of merino drawers, two pairs of flannel 
drawers, soldier's trousers, cloth cap covering head 
and neck with a skirt covering the shoulders, and a 
pair of moccasins over heavy woolen socks — all to be 
worn at once, though seemingly heavy enough to 
weigh down an elephant. The only clothing in re- 
serve was woolen wrappers and socks for the feet, 
and a seal-skin " timiak " for exceptionally cold 
weather. Having suffered much from cold feet, Lock- 
wood had paid special attention to foot-gear, but with- 
out great success. Frequently he was kept awake 
most of the night from this cause. He noticed that 
the dogs suffered more in their feet than elsewhere, 
and might be seen at any time standing around with 
their feet drawn up under their bodies. The feet and 
the nose seemed to be the only highly sensitive parts 
of the Esquimaux dog, these being, indeed, the only 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 223 

parts not covered with long wool. Lockwood never 
tired of watching these animals. They were suscepti- 
ble to kindness, though generally getting little of it. 
They followed him on his lonely walks, and seemed 
grateful for any notice or attention on his part. The 
young pups soon became docile and tractable in har- 
ness, though a little more difficult to manage than 
old dogs. 

When the 1st of March arrived, all hands were en- 
gaged in preparing for their spring work. First in 
order was the supply of their depot on the eastern 
side, and Lockwood purposed leaving soon, to convey 
several hundred pounds of rations to that place. As 
usual in such cases, Dr. Pavy and two others of the 
party indulged themselves in the most gloomy prog- 
nostications as to the future, declaring that all idea 
of further explorations should be abandoned, and all 
their efforts applied to depositing provisions down the 
straits to secure their safe retreat in boats in August 
and September. Both Lieutenants G-reely and Lock- 
wood did all they could to make a success of this expe- 
dition, but the social atmosphere was not congenial, 
and there was little enthusiasm manifested. How 
different would have been this life if all had pulled 
together ! Lockwood was impatient to be away from 
this trouble and at work. If he could not go farther 
than on his previous trip, he could at least try, and 
no man could do more than his best. 

On the 10th of March, Lockwood left with two 
sledge-teams of ten dogs each for the purpose of plac- 
ing supplies on the Greenland side of the straits — he, 



224 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Sergeant Brain ard, and Esquimaux Frederick, with 
one sledge ; Sergeant Jewell, Corporal Ellison, and 
Jans, with the other. After leaving Depot A, where 
they added to their load, they had on each sledge 
about nine hundred and thirty pounds, or nearly one 
hundred pounds per dog. Found much rubble-ice 
on St. Patrick's Bay, but, generally, the route to 
Depot B was good, and the journey was made in 
eight hours from the station. Although they had a 
fire in the little stove of the depot tent, all passed an 
uncomfortable night, not only from cold, but from 
their cramped and crowded condition. Their feet 
were higher than their heads, and the head in one in- 
stance was under the edge of the damp, frost-covered 
canvas. "Woolly" was found to be lame, and had 
to be left in a hole in the snow-bank, with a supply of 
hard bread ; Ellison was feeling badly, yet said, "All 
right," and insisted on proceeding. Seeing no favora- 
ble passage from Cape Beechy, they concluded to go up 
to Wrangell Bay and try the passage direct from there 
to Cape Brevoort. To reach Wrangell, they had to 
leave the ice-foot and move out on the straits, and soon 
found themselves in an awful mass of rubble-ice like 
a vast plain covered with bowlders. A great deal of 
chopping had to be done with the axe, and what prog- 
ress they made, was with half-loads. They encamped 
on the straits, and, while the others returned for the 
discarded loads, Lockwood prepared supper, succeed- 
ing only in making some ice into lukewarm tea, which, 
with cold bread and meat, they hastily swallowed be- 
fore creeping into their sleeping-bags. They secured 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 225 

but little sleep, as may be imagined when it is known 
that the thermometer registered that night —48°. 
Under such circumstances, they seemed never com- 
pletely unconscious, and got up in the morning under 
the belief that they had not slept at all. 

Beaching the south cape of Wrangell Bay, they 
turned to the right and went directly toward Cape 
Brevoort, still meeting with ice of the most formida- 
ble kind, oyer which the heavily loaded sledges had 
frequently to be lifted. Tired out, they camped at 
5 p. m. in the midst of the strait. The first thing to 
be done was to look out for the foot-gear. This al- 
ways had a lining of frost inside as well as out, being 
wet from perspiration if not from leakage. Brainard 
always changed his stockings for dry ones when he 
could do so, but Lockwood and Frederick generally 
let theirs go, the latter from indifference to frost-bites, 
and the former to escape the pain arising from tender 
feet and fingers. By incasing his feet in dog- or 
sheep-skin wrappings, he managed to pass the night 
comfortably. 

Ellison, being really sick, was sent back to the 
depot to the tender care of Woolly. After moving 
for a time over rubble, several of the pieces of which 
came up to a man's shoulders, they were greatly en- 
couraged by coming to a grand paleocrystic floe, whose 
gently undulating surface stretched east, north, and 
south as far as the eye could reach. This floe re- 
minded Lockwood of a Western prairie, its mounds 
and gullies making the resemblance more complete. 
As an offset to this smooth way, they had to face an 



\ IB 



226 FARTHEST NORTH. 

icy north wind with, the thermometer from —35° to 
—48°. Frederick got one cheek and. a finger frost-bit- 
ten, Brainard his face, and. Lock wood, his nose. Here 
they put .off the load, and. at a run with the empty 
sledge returned to their former encampment, where 
the tent was left standing, to await the return of 
Jewell, who had gone back to Depot B to leave El- 
lison with Woolly. 

The next morning, packing everything on the two 
sledges, they soon gained the smooth floe seen the day 
before, whence, detaching Jewell for some stores at 
Lincoln Bay, which he was to leave at this point and 
then return to Fort Conger, Lockwood, Frederick, 
and Brainard proceeded across the floe with as much 
of the total loads as the dogs of their sledge could 
drag. Coming within five miles of Cape Brevoort, 
and seeing formidable ice in that direction, while 
toward Newman Bay the ice was better, Lockwood 
concluded to head toward that bay. They did so until 
5 P. m., and then camped on the straits, completely 
exhausted. During the night they had a violent 
south wind, but they had campaigned too much 
not to be prepared for this with tent-pins securely 
driven. 

In the morning they made their way over pretty 
good floes with some rubble, and reached at noon the 
whale-boat at Polaris Point, finding the rations in her 
intact. Thence, following the snow slope along the 
cliffs, and passing the point where Lockwood and 
Frederick had spent many hours the year before in a 
snow-hole, they passed round Cape Sumner through 



WAITING AND WATCHING. 227 

masses of ice in some places piled fifty feet high, and 
finally reached the Boat Camp on Newman Bay. 

Having thns provisioned the Boat Camp, they took 
a survey of the routes back, and concluding that, all 
things considered, the one direct to Cape Beechy was 
the best, returned by it with the empty sledge, making- 
rapid progress and reaching the west shore in just 
seven hours. Notwithstanding they had no load, the 
passage was by no means easy, for they had to pass 
over mountain-ridges, deep pits, and gullies in the 
rubble-ice, where the dogs could scarcely keep their 
footing. Lockwood was impressed, as often before, 
with the power and endurance of the dogs. Elli- 
son had left the depot, but Woolly still remained, and 
there, also, they found Jewell, who had been up to 
Lincoln Bay, where he found that the foxes had eaten 
up a large part of the meat in cache there. 

With Woolly on the sledge, they returned to the 
station, meeting Snyder and Whistler en route with 
a pup-team and sledge, going for Woolly. It was in- 
teresting and touching to witness the demonstrations 
and delight of these youngsters on meeting their 
elders, among which were the mothers of some of 
them. 

Jewell said that, on his return to the depot, he 
put away his dog-harness in one of the empty tents, 
and that when he awoke the next morning he found 
nothing remaining but the bone buttons and the 
whip-handles, the dogs having eaten everything else. 
Another dog-story is recorded as follows : 

1 i Milatook had pups the other day, and all were 



228 FARTHEST NORTH. 

killed except one. Ifc was discovered yesterday in a 
very unfortunate condition, with tail frozen hard and 
stiff, and legs in nearly the same condition. Some 
of the men soaked the tail in water, and eventually 
' brought it to.' It is a sad tail." 



XIV. 
RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 

0:^ the 19th of March, fair weather came out of 
the north, and not only cheered the hearts of the 
whole colony at the station, but fired the desire of 
Lieutenant Lockwood for the new campaign, which he 
had long been contemplating. After a consultation 
with Lieutenant Greely, he concluded to start on the 
following day, or soon after. As usual, some cold 
water was thrown upon his plans, one of the critics 
declaring that they had experienced enough of that 
kind of business ; and another, that they had better 
be thinking of their coming fate. But Lockwood's 
reasoning was as follows : " Before I go home, I must 
make another ' strike ' on the north Greenland coast. 
If the conditions of the ice are no worse, I ought to 
be able to discover the northeast extremity of Green- 
land, and add several miles to my latitude, although 
Lieutenant Greely thinks that my present i farthest ' 
will not again be reached in our day. I say nothing 
about all this, however. Act first and talk afterward 
has always been my way." 

Lockwood was both hopeful and determined, and 
on the 23d he received his final orders to the effect, 
that, should he not be able to reach a higher latitude 



230 FARTHEST NORTH. 

than lie did before without undue danger, or should 
he or any of his men break down or become danger- 
ously ill, he was to return forthwith. To this he re- 
plied that he knew not what might happen, but he 
intended, if possible, to reach the eighty-fourth paral- 
lel. In anticipation of his own birthday, and to honor 
the explorers with a good " send-off," Lieutenant 
Greely gaye a dinner on the 26th, and, thus fortified, 
they were prepared to move on the following day, 
rejoicing. 

Lockwood had two fine teams of ten dogs each as- 
signed for his use, and, as before, the faithful Brainard 
and Esquimaux Frederick were to accompany him. 
Everything passed off quietly, without the excitement 
or enthusiasm of the previous spring. They left the 
station at 8.30 A. m., the advance sledge bearing the 
silk flag of Mrs. Greely, with Brainard and Frederick 
the Esquimaux ; the supporting sledge with Jewell, 
Ellis, and Esquimaux Jans ; and then the pup-team 
and sledge driven by Snyder, and carrying Greely and 
Lockwood. On reaching Watercourse Bay, whence 
they were to take back a load of coal, Lieutenant 
Greely and team left them, after bidding God-speed, 
and telling them to be sure and bring back the north 
end of Greenland ! Eeaching Depot A in two and 
a quarter hours, they took on two small seals left 
there, and passing Depot B, where they obtained more 
provisions, they reached Cape Beechy at 4 p. M. — the 
dogs quite fresh, but the men much wearied. 

When they resumed their journey, it was snowing 
and the Greenland shore invisible. They took a di- 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 231 

rect course by compass for Cape Sumner oyer rubble- 
ice until they reached the first floe, on whose hard, 
undulating surface they made rapid progress until 
they came to rubble-ice again. Brainard, with axe in 
hand, went ahead, clearing the way oyer impassable 
places, until the high cliff of Polaris Promontory came 
in sight. Finally, both Jewell and Ellis suffering 
from pain, when three miles from Cape Sumner they 
stopped for the night, after making twenty miles, and 
all went into bags. 

Moying early next morning with considerable 
wind, they got into bad ice with cracks, down which 
some of the dogs fell and had to be drawn up ; but 
finally, finding a better route, reached the Polaris 
Boat Camp, where, leaying some meat for the dogs 
when returning, they continued on toward Gap Val- 
ley, generally oyer rolling floes, and through rubble, 
requiring a good deal of cutting, tugging, and push- 
ing. 

When three miles out they went into camp again, 
leaving Ellis to prepare supper for all, while the 
others, with both sledges, returned to the Boat Camp. 

Leaving Brainard to get ready the alcohol to be 
taken from the whale-boat, they kept on along shore 
to the foot of the cliffs and the cache. Here they 
found the snow-slopes much worse than on their last 
yisit, but, the sledges being empty, they could have 
gone along over anything except a stone wall, and 
even that would have had to be very high to stop them. 
Fox-tracks were seen near the cache, but they found 
it intact. The ice they had piled about it was al- 



232 FARTHEST NORTH. 

most covered by the drifting snow. The contents of 
the cache, about one thousand pounds in all, were put 
on the two sledges, and soon after they went down a 
snow-bank so steep and hard that the sledges took 
entire command, though all hands tried to hold them 
back ; but the dogs keeping out of the way, no harm 
was done. This was at Cape Sumner, whence they 
returned to the Boat Camp. Here, taking on the 
things prepared by Brainard, they returned to the 
tents. After supper some hours were spent in getting 
ready the rations for from twenty to forty-eight days. 
Jewell and Ellis were both complaining; otherwise, 
everything looked very promising. 

On the morning of the 30th, it was clear overhead 
but cloudy around the horizon, and a slight snow 
was falling. The loads were about eleven hundred 
pounds to each team, but the dogs did admirably, 
and good speed was made, the ice being covered with 
a very light depth of snow. At the mouth of the 
gorge by which they were to ascend and cross the 
Brevoort Peninsula, they reduced the load on each 
sledge and started up this . narrow, rocky, winding 
canon. The snow was hard and they were getting 
along well, when right before them appeared a wall 
of snow, so steep and hard that Lockwood had to 
use his big knife, to ascend. It was about thirty 
feet high. He went alone to view the situation. A 
few yards beyond was a kind of ice tunnel whose roof 
was about three feet high. Then came another high, 
steep snow-drift with a snow-cavern alongside, prob- 
ably fifty yards in length ; and also a few feet far- 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 233 

ther was found a deep pit formed by the snow. 
Climbing around this and proceeding half a mile, he 
found that the gorge made a bend to the east and be- 
came still more narrow and rocky ; but a side ravine 
offered a chance to get out of this big gutter, up a 
long, steep slope of hard snow, three or four times the 
height of the preceding drifts ; and then Lockwood 
found himself on the table-land overlooking Newman 
Bay. 

The sledges with great difficulty gained this com- 
paratively level divide. The landmarks not being 
altogether familiar to Lockwood, he took a long walk 
after supper to a distant ridge, where, seeing the sea- 
coast, his way became perfectly clear. It was a 
lonely and dismal walk, and the ridge seemed to get 
farther away as he approached it. After more than 
two hours' absence he returned to the tents, crawled 
in alongside of Sergeant Brainard, and was quickly 
lulled to sleep notwithstanding the snoring of Fred- 
erick. The horrid sound issuing from his bag was 
as loud as a brass band at a circus. 

The process of getting breakfast was to be preferred 
to that of getting supper. When a man went into 
camp, after a toilsome day of travel, and had helped 
to pitch tent and unload the sledge, it was hard, while 
covered with frost, with cold and perhaps wet feet, to 
chop ice and meat, and handle cold metal. 

After an uncomfortable night, with the tempera- 
ture down to —45°, they started again. Proceeding 
several miles, they reached a narrow, winding ravine, 
and finally a gorge, which they followed until they 



234 FARTHEST NORTH. 

came to the head of the wide Gap Valley, and thence 
to the sea-coast. Turning east, they continued on a 
few hundred yards, and were then stopped by the ice- 
wall, which crowded so closely to the shore that the 
sledges could not be hauled through. Lockwood and 
Frederick pitched the tent, while Brainard went ahead 
with the axe, and, after much hard work, made a 
passage about one eighth of a mile long through this 
place. They managed to worry through with half 
the load by three o'clock, and, leaving Brainard to get 
supper, Lockwood and Frederick went on with half 
the load for about one and a half miles. The route 
beyond the bad place was excellent. Dropping the 
load, they returned to the tent by four o'clock. Jew- 
ell came along later, he and Ellis complaining again 
of their difficulty in keeping up with the sledge when 
it went faster than a slow walk. 

While approaching the cairn at Eepulse Harbor, 
on the 1st of April, Brainard's sharp eyes discovered 
the site of the English depot of rations, which con- 
tained Lieutenant Beaumont's sextant, an English 
flag, a cooking-lamp, old clothes, and some foot-gear. 
The road before them was excellent, and they made 
good time, soon passing the route of the preceding 
year, which reached the coast just east of Eepulse 
Harbor. 

On coming near Drift Point, they were better able 
to see the northern expanse outside the ice- wall which 
lined the coast and had interrupted the view. Lock- 
wood saw a good deal of young ice interspersed with 
holes, and leads of open water. The main pack be- 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 235 

yond seemed permeated by leads of what had been 
quite recently open water. Dark, misty "water- 
clouds " were seen everywhere northward. The young 
ice extended along shore in both directions as far as 
they could see, and out from shore a hundred yards 
or more. Beyond it was the polar pack, broken into 
small floes and rubble-ice, which had a glistening 
green appearance, as though recently pushed up by 
the grinding of the fields about it ; all this was very 
surprising. 

They made their way over the snow-slopes of Drift 
Point and beyond until the near approach of the cliffs 
on one side and the ice-wall on the other brought 
them to a halt eighty miles from Fort Conger. Here 
they encamped with everything, having come thus far 
in six days. 

The ice-wall along here was from forty to fifty 
feet high. Outside, there was a good deal of ice late- 
ly formed, with smooth floes. They passed on near 
the foot of the bluffs, to see if there was any way of 
getting along the cliffs, making their way between 
the ice-wall and the foot of the steep slopes of the 
bluffs with great effort. The debris of stone, etc., 
from the cliffs above made the route almost impracti- 
cable for a sledge. Before reaching Black Horn Cliffs, 
they were obliged to find a route along the top of the 
ice-wall, and thus got a short distance along the bot- 
tom of these vertical cliffs. But now, from a fissure 
in the cliffs above, came a steep drift of very hard 
snow, slanting down to the water at its foot. To 
scale the cliffs by means of this drift was dangerous, 



\ i i 



236 FARTHEST NORTH. 

as a slip would inevitably have taken one directly into 
the water. 

By cutting steps in the snow they gained a consid- 
erable elevation, but, on looking round a point of 
rocks, the height beyond was so much greater and 
worse than they expected, that they could not proceed. 
All along shore was the crack of open water about a 
yard wide, with young ice beyond, through which a 
stone or fragment of ice might be thrown. Dense 
water-clouds appeared in many directions. They re- 
turned to camp, and, after enjoying some tea, Lock- 
wood gave Jewell the tidal rod to make observations, 
while with Brainard he started out again, this time 
to the south and up a stream-bed, at whose mouth 
they were encamped, hoping to find a route back of 
the cliffs overland. They soon found themselves in 
a ravine with high, rocky sides, and encountered a 
steep snow-drift. Beyond was a small hole in the 
snow, which seemed to be a cavern or grotto formed 
of snow and ice, and probably running down to the 
bed of the stream — if that may be called a stream 
which has no water. Beyond this were exposed 
rocks under foot, and they saw ptarmigan-tracks, 
where the birds had used their wings in getting 
down a snow-drift. Finally, they came to a branch 
ravine from the southeast, the main stream leading off 
toward the south. They turned up the branch, and 
kept on for a while, when the high rocky sides seemed 
to come to a formation of ice like a glacier, a hun- 
dred feet high, at least, and very steep. The crest was 
perpendicular. The route thus far was difficult yet 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 237 

practicable, but it was clearly impossible for a dog- 
team to haul an empty sledge up this place, and yet 
it was the only place where there was anything else 
than an inclined plane of rocks. The glacier was 
covered with snow, but in many places the ice could 
be seen cropping out, the snow being only a thin cov- 
ering. Some ice-grottoes were also seen. They clam- 
bered up the rocks to the left, and found themselves 
on a stony plateau. Off to the east was an elevated 
ridge or knoll, toward which they traveled about a 
mile and a half. On gaining it, the barometer showed 
an elevation of thirteen hundred feet. Toward the 
south was a chain of mountains running east and west, 
through the western extremity of which the main 
stream-bed they had ascended seemed to break, about 
six miles from the sea. The branch appeared to end 
at the glacier ; but to the east of it the land sloped 
north and south, and formed a surface-drain which, 
running east, soon narrowed into a gorge, and, bend- 
ing to the north, reached the sea just west of Eest 
Gorge, as well as they could make out. At the bend 
was a large formation of ice or snow. 

They returned to camp at 3 p. m., and found 
every one there walking vigorously up and down to 
keep warm, or, rather, to keep from freezing, the 
thermometer marking —48°. Jewell left his beat 
every few minutes to note the height of the water on 
the tide-rod. There was now nothing else to do ex- 
cept to get into the sleeping-bags, and this in cold 
weather always involves a change of foot-gear. At 
six o'clock Brainard had prepared supper, and shortly 



\ I 



238 FARTHEST NORTH. 

after, the advance sledge-party was trying to sleep. 
Jewell kept on taking observations until after eleven, 
when he canght the high tide. It was a severe ordeal, 
but he preferred to do it, without assistance, as it 
was much better for the record. 

Brainard complained of want of sleep, and Lock- 
wood's rest was much the same as usual — an uneasy, 
oppressed feeling of being half asleep and half awake ; 
every few hours getting broad awake, and wondering 
if it were time to rise, or how much colder his feet 
would have to get before freezing. Having decided 
to examine the main ravine running south, Lockwood 
started from camp before eight, with Brainard, Fred- 
erick, and Ellis. On reaching the branch, he and 
Ellis continued south, and the other two went up the 
branch. Continuing along between the high, rocky 
sides of the ravine, with abundance of hard snow 
under foot, but some bad snow-drifts, they found a 
very good sledge-route. After a while, they came to 
a huge formation of snow, filling the whole breadth of 
the ravine, and sloping up — in one place by a very easy 
ascent — to the west bank. Gaining this, they contin- 
ued on and reached a ridge some twelve hundred feet 
high, which commanded a view of the sea, and of the 
valley to the south as far as the mountains. The val- 
ley seemed to grow wider and deeper as far as the 
mountains, through which it broke from a southwest 
direction. No break or defile of any kind offered an 
outlet to the east. Beyond the east bank was a wide 
plateau covered with stones, and about four miles 
from the sea. After taking a good survey of the 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 239 

country, they turned back toward the camp. Brain- 
ard and Frederick joined them some time afterward, 
and reported that they had cut one hundred and 
fifty-two steps in the side of the glacier to get up, and 
found that the branch extended a short distance be- 
yond, but that a vertical ledge of ice some twelve feet 
high presented itself afterward, and that, on getting 
beyond this, they found themselves on a plateau cov- 
ered with bare stones. Brainard thought the route 
utterly impracticable, and went no farther. He after- 
ward said that they might be able to get round to 
Best Gorge in two weeks, with the sledges and loads, 
by taking the sledges to pieces, and carrying them 
and the loads piecemeal over these obstructions. The 
young ice seemed to be getting thicker, and they be- 
gan to think they might get around the cliffs after 
all. They had some tea and "pap," and began to 
calculate how many days it would take to reach Cape 
Bryant. During the afternoon, a way for the sledge 
was cut through a low place in the ice-wall, a short 
distance west of the camp, and two days' rations were 
also deposited in a cache on the hill. A slight wind 
blew during the day, and by eight o'clock all were in 
their sleeping-bags again, excepting Jewell, who kept 
up tidal observations until ten, securing a very satis- 
factory set, two high tides and the intervening low 
tide. 

Thermometer during the night —43°. After break- 
fast, Brainard went down to the tide-gauge, and, com- 
ing back, reported that the rising tide had widened 
the crack a little, but that he had fixed it by chop- 
11 



', I ,1 



240 FARTHEST NORTH. 

ping snow blocks and throwing them into the water. 
Being unwilling to risk everything on the young ice, 
thinking that it might break through, Lockwood put 
the five sacks of pemmican on the sledge, and leaving 
the tent, etc., and the supporting sledge-party pack- 
ing up, he, Brainard, and Frederick started on. They 
reached the ice with no trouble, and, proceeding out 
from shore one or two hundred yards, turned to the 
east and went a short distance when, Frederick seeming 
to think the ice all right, Lockwood sent Brainard 
ahead with the axe, while with Frederick, having 
thrown off the load, he proceeded back for the rest of 
the stores, so as to take all on together. They had 
nearly reached the shore, when suddenly Lockwood 
saw two or three of the dogs in the water, and knew 
from Frederick's tones that something had happened. 
The ice was moving out from shore, and they saw no 
way of getting off. Lockwood called for Jewell, and 
then leaving Frederick and his team to find a way to 
shore if possible, started on the run to get within 
hailing distance of Brainard. He was speedily over- 
taken by Frederick and the dog-team, the dogs going 
at a fast gallop, and Frederick laying his whip about 
them in all directions. Lockwood proceeded to find 
some place to get ashore, but there was none, except 
at a little promontory of rubble-ice, in front of the 
camp, and about two hundred yards from the tide- 
gauge. Elsewhere up and down, as far as they could 
see, was a continuous belt of water, every moment get- 
ting wider. The ice had a motion toward the east, as 
well as out from the shore, and thus kept in position 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 241 

a small cake of ice by means of which Lockwood got 
on the promontory, and then directed the movements 
of the dog-sledge which now came along. On the way 
back they stopped and threw the pemmican on the 
sledge again, the ice being perfectly smooth and hard. 
They first saved the dogs, pulling them up one by one, 
and then, the little ice-cake seeming to keep its posi- 
tion, a bridge was made of the sledge, and all the 
pemmican saved. The ice continued to move out 
from the shore, until up and down as far as the eye 
could reach was a wide belt of open water. Before 
they left, it was in many places between one and two 
hundred yards wide, and the ice at the same time 
moving toward the east. They got ashore at eleven 
o'clock, and by 12.30 the sledge-tracks, which had 
been opposite the tidal rod, were opposite the camp, 
a distance of two hundred yards. "While the sledges 
were being packed, a seal made his appearance and 
eyed the party curiously. The guns were not con- 
venient, and he was not disturbed. Many water- 
clouds were seen to the north at this time, and the 
whole polar pack seemed to be on the move. They 
were all grateful for getting out of the trap so well. 
Keferring to their living on the moving floe, Fred- 
erick made signs to suggest their eating the dog- 
pemmican ; certainly this would have lasted a long 
time had they not frozen to death in the mean while, 
which they would have done very soon, as they were 
without sleeping-bags or alcohol. 

There seemed nothing to do but turn about and go 
home, and yet Lockwood was extremely averse to the 



\ H I 



242 FARTHEST NORTH. 

idea. The overland route looked well-nigh impossi- 
ble, or something at least that could not be accom- 
plished in time to allow them to reach the farthest of 
1882. Lockwood 's orders directed his return in case 
this contingency should arise, as well as in case of any 
"signs of the disintegration of the polar pack," or 
in case he became incapacitated for rapid travel. He 
walked up and down and thought of it for some time, 
both Brainard and Jewell haying declared that there 
was nothing else to do but return. At 12.30, the 
teams being all ready, they turned toward the west. 
As they came near the slopes of Drift Point a very 
disagreeable south wind with drifting snow was met, 
which continuing to get worse, their cheeks and noses 
began to suffer, and therefore, at about two o'clock, 
they halted and pitched the tents, driving the pins 
first, and raising the tents afterward. By this time 
it was blowing almost a gale, and, the thermometer 
being very low, the tent was tied up, and they pre- 
pared to weather it out, Lockwood having a severe 
headache, which added to his tribulations. 

The whole of April 5th was passed in the sleeping- 
bags, giving all hands an opportunity to meditate on 
the delights of an Arctic sledge-journey. The time 
was spent in sleep, or in trying to keep warm and 
sleep at the same time. During the day Lockwood 
counted up the exact number of rations remaining, 
and, still bent on his dream of the eighty-fourth de- 
gree, calculated that, if they could get around over- 
land to Eest Gorge in five days, they could yet go 
to the farthest of 1882 and a few days beyond, pro- 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 243 

vided the traveling was not worse than the previ- 
ous year. He announced his intention accordingly. 
Brainard and Jewell were not hopeful, but willing to 
do their best in attempting it. One great obstacle 
was the lame and crippled condition of both Jewell 
and Ellis. The signs of disintegration in the polar 
pack, Lockwood proposed to disregard. 

The wind continuing to blow, it was noon before 
they started off toward the east to reconnoitre ; but, 
prior to this, Lockwood went up on the high ground 
back of the tents and saw a great deal of open water. 
Some time after starting, he stopped the sledges and 
went up on another elevation to reconnoitre, feeling 
that, if he went on and anything happened, his re- 
sponsibility would be heavy, from his disobedience of 
orders. From this point could be seen a belt of open 
water running along shore, in both directions, for 
miles. In no place was it less than two hundred yards 
wide, and from that it increased to four and five hun- 
dred. Westward from the vicinity of Eepulse Harbor, 
it extended in a lead, growing wider and wider, all the 
way across the straits, apparently to the vicinity of 
Lincoln Bay, where it seemed to swing round to the 
north. This lead was upward of five miles wide in the 
middle. Whether there were other leads south of it, 
between Newman Bay and Beechy, could not be de- 
termined. In the polar pack to the north were sev- 
eral small leads and a great many dark water-clouds. 
The ice was again noticed moving rapidly to the 
northeast. Beyond Cape Bryant, he supposed the ice 
to be intact, as in 1882, but around the cape, north 



244 FARTHEST NORTH. 

of Britannia, they had then traveled on new ice, and, 
going out on the polar pack at Cape Dodge, just this 
side of the farthest, had traveled on it for several 
miles. The condition of this route now could not be 
known, of course, but what they had seen made the 
prospect very unfavorable. The signs of disintegra- 
tion were unmistakable, and Lockwood therefore de- 
termined to turn back once again. Near this spot he 
remarked a very curious stratified floeberg. It was 
about forty feet high, and a dozen or more horizontal 
lines were very plain. The weather had now cleared 
up beautifully, and they were soon at Kepulse Har- 
bor. Here they left a short notice of their defeat in 
an English cairn, and, taking Beaumont's sextant, 
the English flag, etc., on the sledge, continued on 
their way to the mouth of Gap Valley, where they 
went into camp, and remained long enough to take a 
set of tidal observations. 

The observations here were very satisfactory, and 
were kept up by Jewell for more than twelve hours. 
Brainard, with Ellis and the two teams and drivers, 
advanced the heaviest part of the loads en route nine 
miles to the shore of Newman Bay. Lockwood and 
Jewell remained in camp, and the former found it 
extremely monotonous, having nothing to do but to 
prepare supper. The only way to keep warm was by 
constantly moving about, and, as a cold wind was 
blowing, this in itself was not comfortable. The ob- 
servations were very trying to Jewell, continued as 
they were long after the rest were in their bags. 

On the 8th of April, they suffered more than usual 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 245 

with cold. The sleeping-bags, frozen stiff, were a 
long time in thawing out after they got into them. 
Dark water-clouds were seen along the northern hori- 
zon, although elsewhere the sky was bright and clear. 
One, particularly noticeable, to the northeast and near 
shore, looked like a huge cliff in a fog. They also 
noticed a movement in an ice-hillock some distance 
off the coast. It changed its angle to the east dur- 
ing their stay, and suggested open water across their 
route before reaching Cape Beechy. They left camp 
at ten, and found the traveling very good — rather im- 
proved by the late storm. Jewell and Ellis began to 
suffer again, and the latter was carried on the sledge 
several miles, the loads being very light. They soon 
reached the middle of the divide, and then the loads 
left on the shore of Newman Bay, making very fast 
time through the gorge, though the sledges had to be 
let down the snow-slopes and drifts by ropes. After 
stopping some time to take on everything, they pro- 
ceeded slowly and reached the Boat Camp, and soon 
after Cape Sumner, where they stopped to make tidal 
observations, Lockwood and Brainard remarking what 
a particularly dreary and dismal place it was, and won- 
dering if they should ever see it again. It brought 
to mind the trials and tribulations of the previous 
spring. Yet, in spite of those trials, the novelty of 
everything, and the imperfect equipment, that expe- 
dition was a success ; and this one, notwithstanding 
their experience and the completeness of their ar- 
rangements, a failure. " Oft expectation fails where 
most it promises." Lockwood felt thankful that they 



246 FARTHEST NORTH. 

had escaped from the ice-pack, and from passing the 
forty-eight hours of the recent storm upon it, living 
on the pemmican until finally frozen to death ; but 
the sense of defeat was predominant. They passed a 
tedious, cold afternoon, but enjoyed a good dinner, 
haying now an abundance of rations of all kinds. It 
warmed them up and put new life in all. Jewell saw, 
during his observations, a white owl flying overhead 
toward the east. 

The morning of the 10th was bright, clear, and 
calm. They noticed a stratum of misty clouds, sup- 
posed to be water-clouds, hanging along the foot of 
the cliffs on the Grinnell Land shore, and extending 
from above Cape Beechy northward indefinitely. After 
passing through several bands of rubble-ice with great 
labor, and yet without having to double up, they 
found the tracks made on the outward journey, and 
followed them continuously. This saved a great deal 
of time in chopping and picking out a road. About 
noon they suddenly encountered a very cold south 
wind. It seemed to come out of Devil's Gap, Polaris 
Promontory, and as usual carried along a lot of fine 
drifted snow, continuing during the day. Their heavy 
loads made the dogs travel at a slow walk, otherwise, 
no doubt, both Jewell and Ellis must have been left 
behind or carried on the sledges. They went into 
camp on a hard snow-drift. 

After an uncomfortable night, with the mercury 
at 45° below zero, they left camp and followed the old 
trail, as on the previous day, jolting along with little 
difficulty in the rubble-ice, the dogs doing admirably, 



RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE. 247 

bracing themselves to the effort at bad places, like so 
many men. 

They reached Depot B at 2.50 p. m., and pitched 
the tents, this making the tenth time that Lockwood 
had crossed the straits above Fort Conger. 

The traveling was tedious and slow, but they 
reached Depot A at noon, stopping only half an hour, 
and arrived at Fort Conger in the afternoon. Ev- 
erything there was quiet as the grave. "General 
Grant " was the only one, man or beast, that knew of 
their approach and came out to meet them. Even 
when they passed the windows and reached the door, 
no one saw or heard them, and Lockwood walked in 
on Lieutenant Greely like a ghost, and simply said : 
"Well, Fm back again; open water at Black Horn 
Cliffs." Some of his further reflections were to this 
effect : 

" Do I take up my pen to write the humiliating 
word failed ? I do, and bitter is the dose, although 
it is now a week since first I tasted it. My return 
here, the inaction after two and a half weeks of ac- 
tivity, and the monotony, not to mention the dis- 
appointment of Lieutenant Greely, make it fresh as 
when first mixed. I tried yesterday and to-day to 
induce Lieutenant Greely to let me go out again, but 
he says this is our last year here, that I still have 
last year's work to fall back on, and, above all, that 
it is not prudent. I have a scheme by which I could 
travel four days beyond the farthest of '82, and get 
back here in forty-four days, leaving April 21st and 
returning June 3d— that is, provided an overland 



- ■' 



248 FARTHEST NORTH. 

route around the Black Horn Cliffs can be found, and 
provided the conditions beyond are no worse than last 
year. My proposal was to take the two teams, the two 
Esquimaux and Brainard, five sacks of pemmican, 
one tent, two sleeping-bags, etc., and forty-four days' 
rations for the party. The five sacks would last the 
dogs twenty- three days, after which about eight dogs 
of the twenty would be killed one by one, and thus 
the remainder fed on the return. We should have to 
make long marches, it is true. Perhaps the refusal is 
for the best, and I still have the country southwest of 
the head of Archer Fiord to operate in ; but I am re- 
luctant to give up this scheme for passing 83° 24'." 
Everything at the station was very quiet, and much 
as when they left, except that a party had been sent 
for the boat at Thank-God Harbor. 



XV. 

ACROSS GKIOTELL LAND. 

While the disappointment which attended the 
late expedition was very great, it did not make Lien- 
tenant Lockwood unhappy or morose. He was only 
convinced, perhaps, that when the ice and snow and 
storms, minions of the North Pole, undertake to play 
the game of April fool, they do it yery effectually. 
The absence of so many of his companions from the 
station had a depressing effect upon his spirits, but 
as usual he prepared the report of his last journey, 
and duly submitted it to Lieutenant Greely, all the 
while suffering from the severe rheumatic pains 
which invariably followed his exposure to severe cold. 
Many of the men were complaining, and the weather 
outlook was not encouraging, and yet, after consulting 
with Lieutenant Greely, Lockwood fixed his mind 
upon an exploration up and beyond the Archer Fiord. 
His idea was to go west, at least as far as the English 
had gone along the northern shore of Grinnell Land, 
feeling that he could hardly fail of finding something 
of interest, and would perhaps make important dis- 
coveries. Indeed, he might be able to determine the 
coast-line on the west. As usual, he wanted the com- 
pany of Sergeant Brainard and Esquimaux Frederick, 



Li 



250 FARTHEST NORTH. 

and would be content with one dog-team and supplies 
for thirty days, with a proper supporting party for 
two days. 

His spirits now became better than they had been, 
caused chiefly, as he confessed, by the glorious sun ; 
and yet he could not refrain from thinking of home, 
and again resorting for comfort to his old family let- 
ters, which he had so frequently read before. 

His late failure had been a disappointment to him- 
self as well as to Lieutenant Greely and the men. 
Some of them seemed down in the mouth and gloomy, 
and, by way of cheering them, Lieutenant Greely in- 
formed them that he intended to leave Fort Conger 
on the 5th of August, or as soon thereafter as the ice 
would permit. The personal relations of Dr. Pavy 
and Lieutenant Kislingbury with Lieutenant Greely 
and himself were not what they should have been, 
and, instead of getting better, these relations seemed 
to grow worse. Could he not have gone abroad on 
these fatiguing journeys to escape such companion- 
ship, he would have felt utterly desperate. He cer- 
tainly would cheerfully take any risks during the 
summer than longer endure the existing personal 
troubles. Lieutenant Kislingbury's only thought 
seemed to be that a sledge-party should be sent down 
to Littleton Island to have the ship leave her sup- 
plies at Cape Sabine, therein merely reflecting the 
latest opinion of the doctor. 

The start for the western trip was made on the 
25th of April, 1883, with two sledges, each drawn by 
ten dogs and carrying about one thousand pounds of 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 251 

rations for thirty days. They moved along the south 
side of the harbor oyer very soft and deep snow, 
through which the dogs labored, yet made their way 
with full loads. On getting near "Sun Land/' how- 
ever, the snow became abominable, and the trayeliDg 
was as bad as they had ever experienced. After try- 
ing for some time to go ahead, but sticking incessant- 
ly, they turned short off to the left, and after a great 
deal of work reached the shore, Brainard en route 
falling down a crack, and Lockwood feeling convinced 
that his feet were frozen, as all sensation had left 
them. 

Beaching Black Knob Point, where there was a 
tent, they found it blown down. After some delay in 
repitching it, they started overland toward Sun Bay, 
through soft and deep snow, and soon afterward 
reached Stony Cape, where they encamped, all the 
party being very much fatigued. 

Kesuming their march, they found the snow not 
particularly deep, but with a light crust, not quite hard 
enough to bear, which made the traveling fatiguing. 
They stopped to rest every hour, the weather being 
really too warm for comfort, so that Lockwood act- 
ually longed for the cold and hard work he had ex- 
perienced in north Greenland. They reached Kep- 
pel Head in three hours, and found that Mr. Keppel 
had a very stony face, and not a handsome head by 
any means, being a lofty promontory and precipitous 
mass of rocks, very grand and imposing. In two 
hours more they reached Hillock Depot, and stopped 
to get some corned beef left there by Lockwood in 



252 FARTHEST NORTH. 

June of the preceding year, the English rations left 
there having all been eaten by foxes. 

On reaching Depot Point, they transferred every- 
thing from the supporting sledge and sent it back to 
the station, afterward getting along with the whole 
load very well. The high, steep cliffs on their right 
threw their shadows almost across the fiord, and kept 
them out of the glare of the sun moving along the 
northern horizon. Fox-tracks constantly appeared. 
These tracks were found everywhere, and yet it was 
but seldom that the animals themselves were seen ; 
and in thinking of their habits, Lockwood wondered 
if they laid up in store their surplus food against the 
days of want. A tame fox kept at the station would 
always take what was offered ; but, when the ice-wall 
was pulled down, a large supply was found which Mr. 
Eeuben had abandoned on regaining his liberty. 

Greatly enjoying the pleasant weather, after find- 
ing some Esquimaux relics, and making a vain effort 
to surmount a glacier, they finally reached the head 
of Ella Bay, where, after some delay in finding fresh- 
water ice, and snow hard and deep enough to pitch 
the tent, they went into camp. Lockwood and Fred- 
erick then took the team and empty sledge, and pro- 
ceeded up a little water-course a few miles. Found 
less ice and more stones than they expected, but, hav- 
ing ascertained that they could advance up the valley 
with some extra labor, returned. Numerous fox, 
ptarmigan, hare, and musk-ox tracks were seen, but 
no game. Brainard became permanent cook, as the 
difficult business of making observations devolved 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 253 

entirely on Lockwood. The cliffs about here were 
grand, at least three thousand feet high. 

Lockwood was disappointed in getting equal alti- 
tudes of the sun for longitude (time), the lofty 
cliffs shutting out the orb of light on each side of the 
meridian ; and yet he had camped away out, a mile or 
two from the cliffs, in order to avoid this difficulty. 
This was one of the annoyances he had frequently 
experienced. After lying awake for hours, or taking 
his sleep by short cat-naps with one eye open, and 
running out in order to catch the sun at the right 
time, and all this after a tiresome march, it was very 
provoking to have " some miserable cliff" lift its ugly 
head right in his way. To get the local time well, it 
was necessary to take the sun's altitude some hours 
before noon, and then catch the precise instant of the 
same altitude in the afternoon, the sun being nearly 
on the meridian at a time midway between the times 
of the two observations. This middle time needed 
certain corrections, and then, the watch or chronome- 
ter being regulated to Greenwich or Washington time, 
the difference of time, or longitude, was known. The 
little streams occupying the valleys (or canons, as they 
should be called) of this Arctic country are utterly in- 
significant compared with the depressions themselves. 
A great, ditch-like break in the country, from two 
to five miles wide and ten to thirty miles long, the 
sides of which are vertical walls rising thousands of 
feet, may be the bed of a little brook that in sum- 
mer-time can be readily waded, and at other times of 
the year can hardly be seen under the universal man- 



254: FARTEEST NORTH. 

tie of snow. It was one of these that they followed 
in its windings. Here and there they would encoun- 
ter yery deep snow, and the sledge-runners would 
stick on the beds of stone, requiring all their efforts 
to get under way again. In about an hour they 
came to a long, level area, indicating Lake Kather- 
ine, which Lockwood had previously discovered and 
named when up near here in the launch, and then 
the view up the valley was unbroken as far as the 
glacier. Its terminal face could be clearly seen, look- 
ing like a little wall of ice three or four feet high, 
upon which one could readily step. Back of this the 
surface gently ascended until lost in the snow-cov- 
ered mountain-side far beyond. The whole thing 
looked like a mass of barber's lather, flowing slowly 
down a deep ditch. For some hours, Lockwood and 
Brainard both thought there would be no trouble in 
getting sledge and dogs up the little face to the un- 
dulating and gradually ascending surface beyond. 
After proceeding some distance on the lake, Lock- 
wood stopped the sledge, and with Brainard went off 
to the right, ascending a low ridge that ran parallel 
with the lake and between it and the high cliffs on 
the north side of the valley. They found the top 
to be four hundred feet high, and beyond was a wide 
ravine running down to the bay. There they saw the 
tracks of three musk-oxen that had evidently passed 
along on their way toward the fiord ; also many tracks 
of foxes, ptarmigan, lemming, and hare. Probably, 
the chief reason for seeing so few animals, though so 
many tracks, was that the birds and animals (except- 



ACROSS GMNNELL LAND. 255 

ing the musk-ox) are all pure white in color for three 
fourths of the year. One might look at a hare or 
ptarmigan a few yards away and yet not see it. The 
lake called Katherine was found to be three or four 
miles long. At its farther end, the ground was quite 
bare of snow in places, and everywhere the snow was 
hard and thin, so that they went along very rapidly. 
Every half-hour, they thought, would bring them to 
the glacier, but the longer they traveled, the farther 
the glacier seemed to move away. When only a short 
walk from the glacier, as Lockwood thought, he stop- 
ped the sledge, and with Brain ard went on ahead. 
The face seemed much higher than they had sup- 
posed it, but it was only after walking a mile that 
they realized what it was — a wall of ice, straight up 
and down, stretching a mile across the valley from 
side to side, and nearly two hundred feet high. 

After surveying this wonderful object, they re- 
turned to the sledge and pitched the tent, seeing no 
way of proceeding farther ; and there they remained 
a day or two to get a good look at the surroundings 
before deciding upon the proper course to pursue. A 
decided fall in the temperature was quite noticeable, 
due, doubtless, to the proximity of the glacier. They 
got to sleep after a while, and during the day took a 
good rest, getting up in the afternoon. The twain 
went again to reconnoitre, leaving Frederick to hunt, 
or amuse himself in any other way he chose. They 
went to the glacier-wall again, and followed along its 
foot to the south side of the valley. This wall was 
beautiful and imposing. From the top, one third 



256 FARTHEST NORTH. 

of the way downward, the ice was of a charming 
green color, and looked like glass ; below this came a 
white surface, in which small stones were numerous 
imbedded in the ice, with here and there streaks of a 
brownish color, like chocolate ice-cream mixed with 
yanilla. A close approach showed that it was earth. 
At the foot of the wall, probably concealing a "termi- 
nal moraine," was an undulating bank of snow, and 
oyer the upper edge of the wall hung wreaths of 
drifted snow that looked like the icing of cake. The 
ground for some distance out was strewed with blocks 
of ice and stone of all imaginable shapes and sizes. 
On reaching the corner of the glacier, a similar wall 
was seen extending up along its flank, abutting against 
an inclined plain of immense bowlders and masses of 
rock, the debris from the cliffs above. The angle 
thus formed was full of large blocks of ice, many 
recently detached from the wall of ice. Traveling 
along the flank proved so difficult that they took to 
the incline and scrambled for some time over immense 
masses of rock and snow, often across deep cracks 
and openings concealed by the snow covering them. 
After gaining an altitude of several hundred feet, they 
reached something like a terrace formation, from 
which they overlooked all the lower part of the gla- 
cier. It presented an undulating and gradually ris- 
ing surface, extending up the valley fifteen or twenty 
miles, or more. Just opposite to them, a branch 
glacier came in from the north through a gap in the 
mighty cliffs. The slope of this branch in places 
was very precipitous, showing great rents and fis- 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 257 

sures. The surface of the glacier was free from 
snow, except, here and there, in what seemed little 
depressions in the ice. There was no way of climb- 
ing npon the glacier, much less of getting the sledge 
and dogs up. It would simply have been ascending 
a precipice of ice two hundred feet high. To get up- 
on it had been their original intention, although Fred- 
erick went through a pantomime at the time, which 
they did not exactly understand, expressing how a 
sledge would go faster and faster, and finally shoot 
over the edge like a waterfall. Whether he ever had 
had such an experience in Greenland he did not say, 
but he would never have had it more than once. See- 
ing no way of getting on or along the glacier, except 
with the greatest labor, Lockwood proposed to Brain- 
ard that they should ascend the cliffs and get an out- 
look from the top. It did not seem very far to the 
crest, and accordingly they started, but a more severe 
climb they had never had, and hoped never to have 
again. It was a very steep incline of rocks and snow 
all the way up. When the barometer showed an ele- 
vation of twenty-five hundred feet, Lockwood found 
himself on a ledge of rocks from which he could get 
neither up nor down for some time. Beneath him 
was a steep surface of frozen snow, falling on which 
he would have gone down-hill like an avalanche. 
Brainard had inclined more to the left, and, by fol- 
lowing the side of a steep gully full of ice, had got 
ahead of him and out of sight. 

Finally, Lockwood reached what had long seemed 
the summit, and stopped to rest. Presently Brainard 



258 FARTHEST NORTH. 

came in sight, and said the top was about a mile off, 
They then started together, walked oyer a gradually 
ascending surface like the top of a vast dome, covered 
with hard frozen snow and ice, and very smooth and 
slippery, giving them frequent falls, and at 4 A. m. 
reached the summit and viewed the country around for 
many miles. Being cold, they did not stay long — only 
long enough to take bearings by compass of several 
distant mountains to the south, snow and ice-clad 
peaks with many glaciers between. To the west the 
country was less broken, and seemingly was a lofty 
surface of snow and ice. They traced the glacier near 
their camp about twenty miles toward the west-south- 
west, when it, and the valley containing it, came to 
an end in a high mountain-ridge. This wonderful 
feature of nature possessed great interest for Lock- 
wood. The face of the barometer gave an elevation 
of the mountain or cliff on which they stood of 5,050 
feet above the sea-level. As their tent was only three 
hundred feet above tide-water, their climb had not 
been a small one. They descended the mountain 
readily, although they had to use hands as well as 
feet all the way down, in some places carrying with 
them a land-slide of earth and stones. 

They were constantly deceived as to distances and 
heights. A headland on the fiord looked but a half- 
hour's travel away, yet it took two or three hours to 
reach it. So these cliffs, which looked from below 
like an easy climb, proved the highest and steepest in 
that benighted region. They got back to the tent 
after thirteen hours of as hard work as they had yet 



ACROSS GRIXNELL LAND. 259 

experienced, and completely tired out. They took 
meridian observation for latitude, and then enjoyed 
a hearty meal of ptarmigan killed by Frederick dur- 
ing their absence. 

On the 2d of May, they left their beds and had 
breakfast at about midnight. Found it snowing and 
unpleasant. Saw little else to do than retrace their 
steps to Ella Bay, and thence proceed around to Bea- 
trix Bay and try to get inland from that place ; spent 
the day, however, in further reconnoitring, as Lock- 
wood did not wish to leave before night. Brainard 
went over to the northeast corner of the glacier, but 
found no way of proceeding in that direction, and, 
after carefully studying the surroundings, Lockwood 
could see no means of getting on even with packs. 
Spent most of the day in taking observations, etc. 
Occasionally they heard a noise like thunder, caused 
by the falling in of sections of the great wall before 
them, more formidable than any to be seen in China. 
The ground at the foot of the wall was only the bed 
of a stream with blocks of ice, and here and there 
a big bowlder. Everything being packed up and 
ready, they started down the stream again, examin- 
ing several deep breaks in the cliffs to see if there 
was any prospect of flanking the glacier by means of 
one of them, but without success. There was no way 
of getting up even a short distance, except by leaving 
dogs and sledge behind and taking to the knapsacks, 
which was not then to be thought of. 

They got along without event and reached their 
old camp after midnight, pitching the tent farther 



260 FARTHEST NORTH. 

toward the north side, in order to see the sun when 
ready to take observations. Shortly after getting in, 
Frederick laid his whip down for an instant, and the 
promising dog Barker gobbled up all except about six 
inches of the butt-end in much less time than it takes 
to mention the fact. The praises of Barker had been 
sung ever since his birth, and this was only one of 
many of the tricks by which he proved his proficiency. 
Frederick quickly made a new lash, however, and 
gave it to Barker on the next march. 

On the 3d of May, as they pushed their way on- 
ward, they took a series of angles and paced distances 
to get at the height of the tremendous cliffs near at 
hand. The result gave an altitude of forty-one hun- 
dred feet, which was almost vertical, the debris ex- 
tending a third of the way up, and not being quite so 
steep. They then followed the north shore to Eecord 
Point, and thence took a straight course for the head 
of Beatrix Bay. The cliffs were so grand that Lock- 
wood never tired of gazing at them, wondering how 
they were first formed, and thinking what tremen- 
dous force of nature had scooped out the awful chasm 
that comprised the fiord. These walls, high as they 
were, were only one half or one third of the height of 
the great snow-covered elevations back of and beyond 
them. 

The appreciation of the grand in this region was 
frequently marred by fatigue and hunger, and so it 
was on the present occasion, Lockwood being glad 
enough when, at half -past one, they reached the head 
of Beatrix Bay. In the valley which they now en- 



ACROSS GRINNBLL LAND. 261 

tered, they concluded to spend another day. This 
one, like nearly all the valleys in this region, was 
simply a canon, a narrow, ditch-like formation, walled 
in by steep, high cliffs. It was occupied as usual by a 
very insignificant stream, the successor of some mighty 
mass of water or ice which had originally hollowed 
out the great gorge. This, and the head of Ella Bay, 
were the farthest reached by Lieutenant Archer, E. 
N., who explored the fiord named for him to find out 
whether it was simply a fiord, or a strait or channel, 
as the Polaris people had asserted it to be. His Mount 
Neville, thirty-eight hundred feet high, Lockwood 
looked for in vain as a regular head to the valley, and 
finally fixed it as one of the cliffs which, a little way 
back, rose slightly higher, to a dome. Archer was 
a day making the ascent. Lockwood and Brainard 
walked about four miles up the valley, and saw its ter- 
mination nearly six miles beyond, when they retraced 
their course to camp, greatly disappointed in seeing no 
game, except two or three ptarmigans. The valley 
seemed practicable for the sledge, and so, after consid- 
ering one or two narrow and rocky gorges which came 
in from the west, they determined to follow it to its 
head (north-northwest), and then seek farther a route 
in the direction desired, which was west or southwest. 
As they proceeded, the weather became bright and 
clear, and the mercury was only 2° below zero. They 
passed up the valley, leaving in cache for return two 
days' rations. The dogs were in excellent condition, 
and, in spite of stones, went along very well. There 
was some ice in the stream-bed, and of snow quite an 



262 FARTHEST NORTH. 

abundance. Above the farthest reached the day be- 
fore, a small lake was discovered — a level expanse of 
snow with ice beneath. The lower part of the valley 
had two distinct elevations, the stream-bed, a very 
easy grade, forming one, while along the stream ex- 
tended broken terraces, termed shoulders, which from 
the cliffs projected out on either side, sometimes be- 
yond the middle of the valley, which was from one to 
three miles wide. The breadth decreased as they as- 
cended, and after several miles it was but a few hun- 
dred yards wide. At this point, they suddenly came to 
a place where the valley seemed to run out, the whole 
breadth being a mass of rocks. Good traveling was 
seen beyond, however, and, after working an hour 
doubling up (taking half -load at a time), they got 
over, and shortly afterward the real end of the valley 
was reached. They then turned short off to the north, 
and, going up a steep, rocky ravine, about midnight 
pitched the tent for further survey of the scene on 
the morrow. 

From this camp a low-looking " hog-back" was 
seen to close in the head of the valley. They deter- 
mined to ascend this and get a look at the country, it 
seeming certain that the Mg sledge could go no far- 
ther. After making some coffee as strong as it could 
be made, and drinking about a quart each, to bolster 
up their spirits, the twain again started out, leaving 
Frederick to crawl into his sleeping-bag or keep warm 
as best he might. They proceeded north up a rocky 
ravine about a mile, and then came to a level plain 
stretching northward, some half a dozen miles far- 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 263 

ther, to a line of cliffs running across which seemed 
to indicate another valley or lake. To the right were 
two or three high, dome-shaped elevations, and to the 
left was Mount Easy, so called, afterward, on ac- 
count of the ease with which they ascended it, and in 
contradistinction to Mount Difficult, the last they 
had ascended. They soon came to a pretty little 
lake — Lake Carolyn — only a few miles long. This 
they crossed, and, in places where the snow had been 
blown off, they could see down through the beauti- 
ful transparent ice, seven feet in thickness, even to 
the stones on the bottom of the lake near the shore. 
This lake had an elevation of eleven hundred feet 
above the sea. In three hours from camp, they 
reached the top of the mountain, an elevation of 
2,720 feet, and had a good view. To the south the 
country was very high, and several glacier- walls came 
into view, probably connections of the glacier above 
Ella Bay. The Henrietta Nesmith glacier, the Gar- 
field range, and the United States Mountains, were 
plainly seen, and also the depression in which lay 
Lake Hazen. Snow and ice in every direction. The 
cliffs to the north of the camp were very conspicuous, 
but whether along a valley or lake they could not 
make out. They stayed on top two hours, and then 
descended the south side of the mountain through 
a deep ravine filled in places with snow-drifts, and 
lower down with stones and bowlders. However, 
they went down very rapidly, and got to camp in two 
hours. The cliffs to the north seeming to extend to 
the west, Lock wood decided to visit them and take 
12 



264 FARTHEST NORTH. 

that route. The only other feasible route was by way 
of the ravine they had descended from the mountain- 
top. 

Shortly after midnight of the 7th, Frederick had 
the dogs and little sledge ready, and, with nothing 
upon it but the shot-gun, hatchet, and telescope, they 
all started. The dogs were irrepressible, and took 
the little sledge over the rocks in a way calculated to 
cripple all hands, for they had to run alongside and 
hold on to the upstanders to keep up. Occasionally 
a runner of the sledge would catch under a bowlder 
and bring the sledge to a sudden stand-still, the im- 
mense strain of the strong dogs threatening to break 
it. On reaching the lake, all three of the men man- 
aged to crowd upon the sledge, and the dogs went 
at a rapid trot oyer its smooth, leyel surface. Be- 
yond Lake Carolyn was a ravine leading toward the 
riyer, and there the dogs took to a gallop, and in an 
hour they reached a rocky height overlooking a long, 
wide valley walled in on the north side by high, pre- 
cipitous cliffs, and on the south by heights of even 
greater elevation, but not so steep. There seemed no 
way, however, to get down. The water-course from 
the lake here became a narrow gorge blocked with 
large bowlders, the spaces between which were full of 
soft snow. It was not inviting, but they tried it, and 
in an hour reached the river-bed, the descent being 
most laborious. Here they found themselves only 
four hundred feet above the sea-level, and, turning 
to the right, went down-stream in a northeastern di- 
rection, the barometer constantly showing that they 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 265 

were going downstream. En route they passed oyer 
several small lakes formed by expansions of the 
stream. In many places the ice was yery thick and 
beautifully transparent. Seven miles from Eocky 
Gorge, where they entered the river, they suddenly 
saw four musk-oxen. Frederick being very anxious 
for slaughter was allowed to go after them, while 
Brainard remained to watch the sledge and dogs, and 
Lockwood went off to the right to take some com- 
pass-bearings. After a while he heard a shot from 
Frederick, and saw one of the animals fall. The oth- 
ers did not seem at all frightened, but stood by their 
dead comrade until Frederick drove them away by 
throwing stones at them. The dogs became greatly 
excited, and, going to where the dead game lay — a 
second ox having been killed — they gorged themselves 
with the entrails until there was danger of ruining 
their own. 

Having returned to the camp, Lockwood now pro- 
jected a special trip westward of twelve days, and pre- 
pared his outfit as follows : Shelter-tent, sleeping-bags, 
axe, sextant, etc., telescope, shot-gun and ammunition, 
medicine, cook's bag, rubber blankets, small lamp, 
knapsacks, snow-shoes, rations for three at forty-five 
ounces each per day, and one sack of pemmican for 
dogs ; total, 328J- pounds. The large tent was left 
standing with the big sledge alongside and the Ameri- 
can flag flying from the upstander. They got off at 
an early hour on the 8th with the dogs in excellent 
condition. Much work was required to get over the 
rocks, but after that they proceeded satisfactorily un- 



266 FARTHEST NORTH. 

til near the valley. This was found to be quite wide for 
a region where everything of the kind was more like a 
cafion than a valley in the ordinary sense. Its width 
was two or three miles, or perhaps in some places four, 
and the general gradients of the stream-bed (Dodge 
Eiver) were very slight, perhaps thirty feet to the 
mile. Narrow, deep cuts in the cliffs and high ground 
around indicated tributary streams. 

Frederick having shot a hare, and gathered up the 
other food, they proceeded on their way, traveling 
now over thick, clear ice and hard snow, with now and 
then patches of stones. The valley seemed to come 
to an end some fifteen miles up-stream, a range of high 
hills running directly across it. 

After various tribulations in exploring a side gorge, 
at midnight on the 10th of May the party resumed 
travel up the valley. The condition of the sledge- 
runners rendered it necessary to reduce the weight to 
the least amount possible. This doubtless pleased 
the dogs, for the driver had to restrain their ardor. 
Leaving the sledge to pursue its way along the base 
of the hills, Lockwood ascended a considerable ele- 
vation and obtained a good outlook over the country. 
He was very agreeably surprised to find at the farther 
end of a gap up stream an apparent prolongation of 
the valley in the same general direction. On either 
side of this prolongation was a range of low heights, 
while the intermediate surface looked very level — so 
level that he took it for a long lake. To the left, 
just outside the heights on that side of the valley, he 
could see at intervals a glacier- wall, the north bound- 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 267 

ary of a great mer de glace. About twenty miles dis- 
tant, the yalley seemed again to be shut in by a range 
of hills, but over the tops of them, and at a great 
elevation on the distant horizon, he saw what seemed 
to be a snow-bank. This he made his objective point. 
Passing onward through the gap, they came to a long 
and picturesque lake which was named Lake Nan af- 
ter an interesting niece ; and coming to a place near 
the end of the valley, a break in the low heights to 
the left revealed the glacier they had before seen. Its 
surface was very distinct. Extending to the south 
a few miles, it soon reached an elevation that formed 
the horizon in that direction. It seemed a vast un- 
dulating surface, and, as was afterward discovered, is 
the backbone of Grinnell Land. The wall of the gla- 
cier near which they camped presented a vertical face 
of solid ice 140 feet high. At intervals they heard 
the sound of falling ice — small fragments which be- 
came detached and dropped to the base. The alti- 
tude of this camp above the sea-level was found to 
be 1,240 feet, and of Lake Nan 920 feet ; that of their 
last camp was 685 feet, and of the first camp in the 
valley, 420 feet. 

Passing onward, they crossed several small lakes 
close along the wall, with brooks emptying into them 
from the north. In a few hours they were on the 
divide, the surface to the north having more slope 
than that on the other side. The summit gave an 
elevation by barometer of 2,610 feet, about 400 feet 
higher than where they left the wall. They had an 
extensive view to the east, and could see Dodge River 



268 FARTHEST NORTH. 

as far as they had explored it, also Mount Easy and 
the country adjacent. To the southeast, south, and 
southwest, was seen the glacier, which was named 
after A^assiz. It formed the horizon for half a dozen 
miles in these directions. All the ice-capped coun- 
try and glaciers seen from the former camps were 
found to be connected with, and to form a part of 
this one glacier. Toward the north, the country had 
comparatively little snow. Presently they came in 
yiew of a mountain-peak toward the northwest, not 
many miles distant, which was recognized as Mount 
Arthur, the farthest point reached by Lieutenant 
Greely during the previous year. Away beyond it 
were seen very distinctly the United States and Gar- 
field Mountains. Just to the west of Mount Arthur, 
they discovered a large lake, which Lockwood named 
Lake Fletcher. They were now on a surface rapidly 
sloping to the west. Some miles distant in this direc- 
tion appeared a broken range of cliffs and mountains, 
and between their stand-point and these mountains 
was a wide valley, connected by a stream with Lake 
Fletcher, and a small lake, close to the Chinese Wall, 
which they called Lake Harry, the latter having an 
elevation of 1,320 feet. They crossed Lake Harry, and 
beyond it came to another called Lake Bessie, having 
an elevation of 1,630 feet, and covered with deep snow. 
Reaching the cliffs to the west, they found the de- 
scent exceedingly precipitous and rugged. No other 
passage offered than that through a gorge which was 
filled with ice and hard snow, whose surface was al- 
most perpendicular. As this was the only passage, 



ACROSS GMNNELL LAND. 269 

they went into camp to devise ways and means. Next 
morning, Lockwood attached all the ropes he had, in- 
cluding dog-traces, to the sledge, and while he rode 
to guide caused the others to ease down the sledge. 
Unfortunately, the rope was too short, and those at 
the top let go. Gravity carried the sledge and rider 
down the foot of the slope, now somewhat reduced, 
with fearful rapidity, till they brought up against 
rocks covered with snow, fortunately without serious 
damage. The other men and dogs got down as best 
they could, the former digging footholds as they pro- 
gressed. 

Further descending the canon, they came to an- 
other glacier stretching entirely across their way, and, 
as it seemed impossible to surmount it or the walls 
on either side, they came to a halt and enjoyed a 
night of rest. The next day they pushed on, though 
troubled with snow-blindness, and, overcoming the 
obstacle of the previous day, crossed a lake and en- 
camped on its farther end. On the following day, 
after passing through a gorge, the outlet of the lake, 
between high cliffs, they were surprised to see a num- 
ber of floebergs similar in every respect to the floe- 
bergs of the east Grinnell coast. At the same time 
they found the water to be salt, and saw the fresh 
tracks of a bear. These facts convinced Lockwood 
that they were near the western sea, probably at the 
head of a fiord. This soon became still more ap- 
parent. Here they also saw another glacier com- 
ing in some miles west of the last. They crossed a 
crack of open water, formed by the tide, and found 



270 FARTHEST NORTH. 

themselves on well-recognized floe-ice, quite level but 
covered in places with deep snow. Ahead of them, 
twenty miles distant, on the opposite side of the fiord, 
was a bold headland, and toward this they now direct- 
ed their course. This fiord, which Lockwood named 
after Lieutenant Greely, separated at its head into 
two bays. These he called, after G-reely's daughters, 
Adola and Antoinette. The latter bay they were now 
crossing, while they bore away to the north. It had 
become very foggy, and was snowing and blowing 
hard. When some miles out they crossed other bear- 
tracks, and finally reached the cape for which they had 
been striving. Here the south shore of the fiord bent 
off toward the west-southwest being very wide and 
walled in on all sides by steep cliffs broken in a few 
places by branch fiords or bays. They encamped at 
the cape on the 13th, had supper, and soon turned in 
to sleep and fast as long as possible, or until the storm 
abated, as the party was now reduced to what they 
called a starvation allowance. There was nothing to 
do but to make observations when the sun appeared. 

The mouth of the fiord at the north side was 
found to be about forty miles off, but the snow was 
deep and soft, and they could not attempt it without 
rations, all of which was extremely provoking. The 
snn became dimly visible through a snow-storm, look- 
ing like a grease-spot in the sky ; but, notwithstand- 
ing, observations were attempted for latitude and lon- 
gitude, and many compass-bearings were taken. At 
times everything was shut out of sight excepting the 
nearest cliff. Brainard feared they would have a 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 271 

very hard time in getting back, and Frederick evident- 
ly thought he was a long distance from Fort Conger, 
seeming rather "down in the mouth." 

Soon after breakfast on the 15th, Lockwood and 
Brainard started to ascend the cliffs near by, the 
weather having partially cleared. They did so by 
means of a ravine opposite the camp, and had hardly 
reached the top before the snow began to fall again, 
and the wind to blow from the east ; but, notwith- 
standing, they saw a large glacier to the south twenty 
or thirty miles away, and another to the northwest 
at about the same distance. The first was apparently 
an offshoot of the great " Chinese Wall " already men- 
tioned. They saw also a lofty range of mountains 
far to the north, running generally parallel with the 
fiord. The cliffs to the west shut out the mouth of 
the fiord, and, before they could get far enough in that 
direction to see over them, the coming storm obscured 
almost everything. These cliffs were 2,140 feet high 
by the barometer, and almost vertical. The driving 
snow now became very uncomfortable, and, after going 
three miles westward, they concluded to return. En 
route, they found a number of fossils of what seemed 
to be trees, snakes, or fishes, Brainard being the first 
to notice them. They also saw a ptarmigan, an owl, 
and some snow-buntings, these being the only living 
objects observed. Eeached the tent after six hours' 
absence, and found Frederick tramping around in the 
snow, not knowing what to do with himself. After 
supper, all three of the party with the sledge and 
dogs went an hour's journey toward the opposite shore 



272 FARTHEST NORTH. 

of the fiord, ten miles away. The sky was partially 
clear, and they got a yery good view down the fiord, 
the telescope bringing into view another cape (Cape 
Lockwood). Between that and the cape on the north 
side (Cape Brainard), they failed to see any land, 
though they examined long and carefully with the 
telescope. The fiord between those two capes was 
very wide. Several branch fiords, or what appeared 
to be such, were noticed. Cape Lockwood seemed to 
be on the farther side of one of these, or on an island. 
The country on both sides of the fiord was very ele- 
vated, that on the north side much broken, and that 
on the south, away from the fiord, apparently an ice- 
clad surface rising into immense, dome-like undula- 
tions against the horizon. 

After a meager breakfast, they started on their 
return, finding the snow very deep and soft. The 
effect of short rations on the dogs was noticed. They 
saw two seals lying on the ice, which Frederick tried 
hard to shoot, but in vain. Lockwood was especially 
anxious to get a seal, for it looked as if they would 
have to kill one dog to save the remainder. After 
much trouble for want of food, they resumed their 
journey on the 17th, verifying at various points the 
observations that had been previously made in regard 
to the great ice-wall and the lake over which they 
had already passed. 

On reaching the end of the lake, they began the 
ascent of the ravine. The snow at the head of the 
ravine was very soft and deep, and they had hard 
work to get through it. Arriving at the big snow-drift 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 273 

which they had descended with so much difficulty and 
danger, it became a question how to ascend, but they 
managed it by first cutting some steps and getting 
the dogs up, and then, attaching them by long lines 
to the sledge below, men and dogs together pulled 
the load up the almost vertical face. The party 
went into camp at the old place, and decided to kill 
one of the dogs, yet very reluctantly, Frederick op- 
posing it. Brainard had suggested White Cooney, 
but Frederick named Button, a young dog. Button 
had eaten up his harness that morning, and this de- 
cided his fate. He was shot by Frederick, and soon 
the carcass was skinned and presented to his brethren. 
Old Howler at once seized a hind-quarter, but the 
others did nothing more than smell the meat. They 
walked around it in a reflective mood, debating 
whether to yield to their hunger or to their repug- 
nance. When the party awoke next morning, noth- 
ing remained of poor Button but some of the larger 
bones. 

On the 18th, Lockwood and Brainard ascended a 
neighboring mountain and got a look at the country. 
The ascent was easy and they gained the top in a 
short time; altitude, 2,008 feet. From this point 
they could see the " Chinese Wall " stretching off to 
the southwest forty miles, over hills and dales, as far 
as the glacier south of Fossil Mountain, although 
Lockwood could not recognize that particular glacier. 
The glaciers at the two ends of the lake, near Greely 
Fiord, were readily seen to be offshoots of the greater 
one, whose surface toward the south could be seen for 



274 " - FARTHEST NORTH. 

several miles. In that direction, Lockwood took the 
bearings of several ice-capped mountains, one, as he 
thought, identical with a very high mountain seen to 
the south from Antoinette Bay. The "Chinese 
Wall" had the same general aspect everywhere — a 
vertical face of pure white or green ice upward of 
two hundred feet high, and extending across the 
country in a fashion he could liken to nothing else. 

From here Lockwood made a short excursion by 
himself to Lake Harry, discovered a number of other 
small lakes, and obtained the altitude of several locali- 
ties. He returned to camp only to find the dogs in a 
bad way for food, and a scarcity for himself and men. 
Kesuming their course the next morning, after the 
dog Howler had performed the remarkable feat of 
stealing a piece of meat when it was cooking on the 
alcohol-stove, they passed many of the localities they 
had seen before, but in some cases hardly recognized 
them on account of the flying snow. Making two 
marches in twenty-four hours, they reached their first 
camp, and found the tent blown down, but the big 
sledge in its position, with the American flag flying 
over it as gayly as if in a pleasant and genial clime. 
The dogs were gratified with a good feast of pemmi- 
can, and the men themselves found it delightful, once 
more to have a full supply of food. 

Their next move was for Archer Fiord, by way 
of Beatrix Bay and Eecord Point. They crossed 
another lake, where, as once before, they could see 
the bottom through ice that was seven feet in thick- 
ness, having revisited the north side of Musk-ox 



ACROSS GRLNNELL LAND. 275 

Valley, which was separated from the lake by a yery 
low and narrow divide. Dodge Eiyer was seen bend- 
ing off to the northeast toward Howgate Fiord. The 
surroundings were yery picturesque, but barren and 
desolate in the extreme. They saw no signs of game, 
and eyen the poor, stunted vegetation of the region 
was wanting. Kocks and snow, with stretches of bare 
ground, composed the prospect. 

The lake alluded to above was about twelve miles 
long — a considerable sheet of water — and, no doubt, 
in summer would be an interesting place to visit, as 
places go in the Arctic regions. 

After camping they proceeded along to the east of 
Murray Island, the weather cloudy and calm. Depot 
Point was revisited, to look for the English rations, 
but nothing found. 

Having killed a seal, they took the meat and blub- 
ber along, and camped about ten miles from Bulley's 
Lump, where they had a good feast of meat and liver. 
The latter was greatly relished, Brainard making it 
into many dishes. 

On the 24th, they enjoyed their breakfast at mid- 
night, Lockwood calling it a real midnight mass, as it 
was a black mass of seal-liver, English meat, corned 
beef, potatoes, and hard bread, all cooked together in 
one stew which was very good, notwithstanding its 
miscellaneous character. 

The comments of Lockwood, in regard to the ex- 
pedition, and how matters were at the station, were as 
follow : 

"No such word as i failed' to write this time, I 



276 FARTHEST NORTH. 

am thankful to say, but the hap}3y reflection is mine 
that I accomplished more than any one expected, and 
more than I myself dared hope — the discovery of 
the western sea, and hence the western coast-line of 
Grinnell Land. I have now the rather ponderous 
task of preparing a report, making a map, and writ- 
ing out this journal from my notes. Tidal observa- 
tions have been taken at Capes Baird, Distant, and 
Beechy, simultaneously, showing that the tides arrive 
at these places in the order named. This is very 
singular, as the previous expeditions into these parts 
established (?) the tides as coming from the north. 
This agrees, however, with the order of their arrival 
at Cape Sumner, Gap Valley, and Black Horn Cliffs, 
where I took observations in April. No more musk- 
ox meat left ; it ran out on the 20th inst., and hunt- 
ing-parties sent out April 25th saw nothing. I sur- 
mised as much, from the absence of game on my trip, 
though Brainard did not agree with me. Two seals 
have been shot, but only one secured. 

" I find the social relations of our room not im- 
proved — rather worse than better. Dr. P., though 
he shook hands and asked me several questions as 
to my trip, relapsed into silence, which he seldom 
breaks. Lieutenant K. had but one question to ask. 
I often contrast ours with the pleasant relations of the 
English officers when here, and think how much hap- 
pier we should be in following their example. As it 
is, I soon relapse into ennui and apathy. A sledge- 
journey, with all its trials, is preferable to this. I view 
those ahead of us with indifference, as it will rid me 



ACROSS GRINNELL LAND. 277 

of this forced association. Another winter would 
render me a maniac, or put me under a cairn. 

" The spirits of the men seem good. The sun has 
revived them. Merry groups may be seen at any 
time on the sunny sides of the house. 

" How often do I think of home, which now seems 
to me like a series of pictures or objects long since 
seen ! how often of my dear father, whom may a kind 
Providence spare for many, many years ! 

" Both Brainard and I lost a score of pounds 
weight on our late trip ; but we are rapidly regain- 
ing our avoirdupois. My appetite is frightful, and 
nothing comes amiss. I want to eat every three or 
four hours. Fortunately, we have a supply of musk- 
ox beef on hand, having killed three recently aggre- 
gating four hundred pounds, to which are added many 
water and other fowl daily brought in. There was 
felt at one time some apprehension that our resource 
in this respect had disappeared, and fears were enter- 
tained of scurvy. The men seem to have fared so 
well that their appetites have become dainty. One 
would suppose that pork and beans were not staples at 
our army posts. 

" Israel makes my farthest of the last trip, latitude 
80° 4T, longitude 88° 29'. Hence my explorations ex- 
tend over 2£° of latitude and 38° of longitude. Have 
plotted my western journey, and find that my farthest 
carries me far off the English map. I took latitude 
and longitude observations at every camp, and also 
frequent compass-bearings ; to reconcile all these is 
a task. 



278 FARTHEST NORTH. 

" Eice has taken a photograph of my corner, where 
I do all my work and also sleep. 

"Have been reading the authorities on glaciers, 
and regret I did not inform myself better before going 
out. But perhaps that Chinese Wall will make up 
for my short-comings. 

" Those rheumatic pains I had a year ago have re- 
turned and trouble me much. I must be moving 
again soon. 

" Several of the dogs, becoming mangy, have been 
shot. Poor old e Howler,' whom we left on the ice- 
floe, hoping he would recover and follow us, was 
found dead near the same place. Oh! the hours of 
misery I have spent in sleeping-bags, kept awake by 
that howling brute — howling, perhaps, just because 
another dog looked at him ! But, for all his howlings 
and stealings, the ex-king was a good worker and did his 
duty, and that should be all required of any one, man 
or dog. May he rest in peace in the happy hunting- 
grounds of the canine race ! Frederick, I presume, 
will put on crape for him." 



XVI. 

PREPARING FOR HOME. 

Hardly had Lieutenant Lockwood reoccupied 
his corner long enough to get thoroughly rested and 
warm, before we find him hard at work again and 
ready for any emergency. At the request of Lieuten- 
ant Greely, he undertook a task in which he himself 
feared that he manifested more zeal than discretion. 
Dr. Pavy, the natural history custodian of the expe- 
dition, haying failed to render reports of the collec- 
tions, or properly care for them, was relieved soon after 
Lockwood's return from the west, and the department 
was transferred to Lockwood. With yery little aid 
from the doctor, he made lists and secured the speci- 
mens from further injury, the men haying shown 
much industry and zeal in adding to the collection. 
In the mean time, Fredericks, who was a saddler by 
trade, rendered good service by making for Lockwood 
and the men seal-skin boots, which were of great use ; 
and he also made himself useful by overhauling the 
sleeping-bags and making new ones for the contem- 
plated boat-voyage to Littleton Island at a later day. 
Snyder had also made some wearing gear for use on 
board the relief-ship. 

"What a change for us all," wrote Lockwood on 



280 FARTHEST NORTH. 

the 3d of June, "if we ever return home ! And how 
much to talk about, and how much to hear ! Just 
two years ago, I left Baltimore on the Nova Scotia, to 
join the Proteus at St. John's. Open water is re- 
ported in the straits near Cape Baird. How eagerly 
we watch for any change that may effect our release ! " 

On the 22d of June, a party was sent up the 
Bellows for game and returned successful, haying 
killed eight musk-oxen, one seal, and a few geese, all 
of which were duly brought in. Many waterfowl and 
ptarmigans were brought from other points ; and then 
followed a grand dinner in honor of Dr. Pavy's birth- 
day. To show the social relations of the officers, Lock- 
wood says, "The only remark at dinner was a very 
sage one by myself, viz., that the sun was now on his 
way south, to which Lieutenant Greely assented. 

"The men all busy and all cheerful. Lieutenant 
Greely remarked that it did not look as if the ' gloom 
which their coming fate cast over the spirits of the 
men' was quite as deep as Lieutenant Kislingbury 
thought it to be. Another day gone," wrote Lock- 
wood — " another day nearer the end of our stay here ! 
A miserable, gloomy day it is too. Snow, or snow 
mixed with rain, all day, and last night it blew a gale 
from the right direction to clear away the ice — north- 
east. I think myself now in excellent condition for a 
hermit's life, having had two years' experience of a 
life not very dissimilar." 

On the 3d of June, Lockwood made the ascent of 
an immense "hog-back" north of the station. Hog- 
back was the term used by the English to designate 



PREPARING FOR HOME. 281 

the oval-shaped elevations so common in this region, 
being neither mountain nor table-land, but immense 
undulations which, with more or less slope, rise three, 
four, or eyen five thousand feet above the sea-level. 
He was the first to ascend this one, and did so to view 
the country northwest of it, which he desired to ex- 
plore. It was the highest of a series of ridges, half 
a mile or so apart, each just high enough to suggest 
the idea of its being the genuine top, but showing 
another beyond still higher. He pressed on, fre- 
quently resting, and finally did reach the top, and 
saw, beyond, the United States Mountains in the dis- 
tance. The view from this elevation, more than half 
a mile above the sea-level, was superb. The straits 
seemed one solid mass of ice. The Greenland shore 
and Archer's Fiord were in full view. The whole 
land was made up of mountains. 

The 4th of July was celebrated by a game of base- 
ball, in which Lieutenant Greely took part ; also the 
Esquimaux, but they confined themselves to running 
after the ball. A good dinner followed, to which 
Lieutenant Greely contributed four bottles of Sau- 
terne ; but the doctor declined the wine, and made a 
hasty meal. They also had a rifle-match. Several 
of the men donned white shirts and other "store- 
clothes," metamorphosing themselves completely, flan- 
nel shirts, with trousers in boots, being the usual cos- 
tume. 

On the same day Lieutenant Greely issued an 
order directing Dr. Pavy to turn over to Lieutenant 
Lockwood all the medical stores, journals, and col- 



282 FARTHEST NORTH. 

lections, the former haying declined to renew his en- 
gagement, which had expired. On the 11th of July, 
Lockwood started with Brainard on an exploration to- 
ward the northwest with a view of reaching, if pos- 
sible, the United States range of mountains. They 
carried an outfit weighing one hundred pounds, or 
twenty-fiye pounds for each man at the start, as 
Henry and Biederbick were to help them with the 
impedimenta for one day and then return. They 
went without sledge or tent, and carried only blanket, 
sleeping-bags, a small lamp, and a few pounds of 
food, with instruments, snow-shoes, etc. They soon 
reached the top of the hog-back beyond "Sugar- 
Loaf," and afterward the true hog-back Lockwood 
had yisited before, finding it 2,700 feet high. 
Thence they kept a north-northwest course toward 
a prominent glacier in the United States Eange, mov- 
ing about parallel to North Valley Creek, which emp- 
ties into St. Patrick's Bay. After traveling fourteen 
miles they camped — that is, selected as smooth and 
sheltered a spot as could be found, made some tea, 
spread out the sleeping-bags, and crawled in. 

Henry and Biederbick left the next morning evi- 
dently well satisfied to forego the pleasures of this 
trip. Their departure rendered it necessary to reduce 
the load somewhat, which was done by leaving behind 
the snow-shoes and rubber spread, trusting to luck to 
find a bare spot for their sleeping-bag. After tramp- 
ing through much wet snow alternating with mud 
and stones, and getting their feet soaking wet, they 
came to two deep gorges close together, each occupied 



PREPARING FOR HOME. 283 

by a considerable stream of water. They crossed 
these and ascended a dome beyond, three thousand 
feet high, and thence came to a still larger stream 
whose gorge was one thousand feet deep. Here they 
stopped for the night after a tramp of twelve miles. 
The next morning the sky was overcast, with baromet- 
ric indications of a storm ; but they continued their 
way with reduced loads, haying only one day's food 
left. Following the stream northwest a few miles, 
they crossed it and ascended a high eleyation, from 
which the United States range could be very distinct- 
ly viewed, and then came to the conclusion that they 
had gone far enough. 

With the telescope they could see distinctly, about 
twenty miles away, the walls of the great glacier, and 
its face ten miles wide. In fact, the whole range was 
full of glaciers. The country intervening between 
them and the glaciers seemed comparatively level. At 
noon they started back, and did not stop until the 
camping-place of the night before was reached. 
Thence, after a drink of tea and something to eat, 
abandoning their sleeping-bags, they made for their 
first camp, where had been left the rubber spread and 
one extra bag. The traveling was execrable, but 
they reached Fort Conger on the 14th, hungry, tired, 
and decidedly used up. 

On the 24th, preparations began for the proposed 
boat-journey toward the south on which they would 
start when the ice would permit. Lockwood, in obe- 
dience to a general order, prepared to take no cloth- 
ing except what he wore, and the few pounds of his 



284 FARTHEST NORTH. 

baggage would consist of his journal and other pa- 
pers. He felt depressed and low-spirited, and totally 
indifferent as to the risks they were to encounter. 

The straits were reported clear of ice below Cape 
Lieber on the 26th, but the bay near by was still full, 
though with many leads. Every preparation was 
made to leaye on the 1st of August, if possible, or 
as soon after as the ice would allow. The men fid- 
dled and sang, and seemed in joyous spirits ; and the 
hilarity was kept up by the dogs Eitenbank and Ask- 
him having a terrible fight, resulting in victory to the 
latter. The probable consequence was that Ask-him 
would now be king. Eitenbank went about with his 
head down and tail between his legs, a dethroned and 
friendless monarch. The usurper's reign, however, 
was likely to be a short one, as, on the party's leaving, 
the dogs would either be shot or left to starve to death. 

The 5th of August arrived, and the ship was the 
only thing talked about. Some of the men reported 
smoke down the straits, but it was soon found to be 
only water-clouds or fog. In the midst of these ex- 
citements, Lockwood gave expression to the following 
feelings : "As the time for moving approaches, I feel 
a singular apathy. If we had plenty of fresh meat and 
more good books, I could stand another winter here." 

Soon after, heavy winds from the south making 
great changes in the condition of the ice, active 
preparations were made for leaving. 

Lockwood writes : " I don't feel as though I was 
going away, much less toward the south. Have felt 
more stirred up on beginning a sledge-journey." 



PREPARING FOR HOME. 



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XVII. 
HOMEWAKD BOUND. 

The time having arrived, the final orders were 
given for the Arctic exiles to make ready for the first 
stage of travel leading to their far-distant home. They 
were now to leave the station at Fort Conger, and, 
as best they conld, find their way to Littleton Island, 
where they hoped to meet a vessel that wonld take 
them back to Newfoundland. They were to depart in 
boats, viz., the steam-launch Lady Greely, a whale- 
boat, an English boat of which they had come into 
possession, and a still smaller affair, that might prove 
serviceable for special purposes. 

The journal kept by Lieutenant Lockwood after 
his departure from Fort Conger was written in short- 
hand, as always while in the field, and is a very com- 
plete record. In the following pages, only a brief 
summary of purely personal incidents will be at- 
tempted, without presuming to give the phraseology 
of the youthful explorer. 

On the 9 th of August, the little fleet pushed off 
from shore, laden with the twenty-five adventurers 
and a comfortable supply of provisions. They 
reached Bellot Island without much trouble, but 
afterward encountered a good deal of ice, and, while 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 287 

working very hard to get through, Rice accidentally 
fell overboard, which was for him a poor beginning. 
The ice continued to be troublesome until the close of 
the next day, when the boats were so severely nipped 
that they had to be drawn up on the floe. Afterward, 
open water appearing all the way across the fiord, the 
launch and the other boats made a successful crossing 
nearly opposite Sun Bay. They reached the depot 
near Cape Baird, at about 2 p. m., up to which hour, 
from the time of leaving Fort Conger, they had not 
been able to secure any sleep, nor anything to drink 
but cold water. Reaching Cape Lieber on the 11th 
in a snow-storm, they landed on a bluff about a mile 
from the cape, where they waited for the ice to move, 
so that they might continue on their route toward the 
south along the western shore of the strait. The only 
animals seen in that vicinity were two narwhals, fight- 
ing near the shore. The fog now became so very 
dense that no headway could be made, and this gave 
them an opportunity to obtain some needed rest. 
Their next advance was in the midst of a severe storm 
of wind and snow, in spite of which they reached Carl 
Ritter Bay on the morning of the 12th. The next 
morning, while they had open water near the shore, 
they discovered ice-barriers extending to the south as 
far as they could see. At this point a young seal was 
killed, which was greatly enjoyed by all of the party ; 
but this luxury, in the case of Lockwood, was coun- 
terbalanced by the discomfort of sleeping on shore 
without any protection excepting that of his bag. 
He also spent several nights on a floe-berg, where, 
13 



288 FARTHEST NORTH. 

by laying his sleeping-bag on a sheep-skin, he slept 
more comfortably. From the 13th until the 20th, 
when the party reached Kawlings's Bay, it was a con- 
tinual conflict with floating ice, snow-storms, and 
fog, the monotony of the struggle having been broken 
by an accident to the launch, and also one to Lieuten- 
ant Greely, who had a fall into the water, from which 
he was rescued without harm. At all the places where 
they encamped, they had great difficulty in securing a 
safe harbor for the launch. Haying passed across 
Eichardson Bay in safety and reached Cape Collinson, 
they found about one hundred and twenty, out of two 
hundred and forty, English rations which had been de- 
posited there, the missing portion having been eaten 
by the foxes. On the 22d they reached Scoresby Bay, 
where observations of the strait showed it to be full 
of floating ice ; and in this vicinity they were brought 
to a halt by the ice-pack near the shore at Cape John 
Barrow. Here the boats were pulled up on the floe, 
and, as the thick sludge-ice was all around, no open 
water in sight, and the supply of coal getting very 
low, the prospect was gloomy in the extreme. When 
able to continue on their course, the travelers were 
still greatly troubled by heavy fogs, and while pass- 
ing over a space of open water, abounding in floe-bergs 
which could not be seen, they were in constant danger 
of being lost. Notwithstanding all these obstacles, 
they pushed their way onward, and in due time 
reached Cape Louis Napoleon, Cape Hawks, and Prin- 
cess Marie Bay, when they were again stopped by the 
floating ice, and detained by the newly formed ice. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 289 

In his desire to comply with the order as to weight 
of baggage, Lockwood had left his seal-skin coat at 
Fort Conger, but this step he afterward regretted, as 
the weather continued stormy, and he was greatly ex- 
posed to the cold. To this was added the misfor- 
tune of haying a badly fitting seal-skin boot which 
gave him great pain, so that he had to resort to a pair 
of moccasins. When the boats were caught in floes 
and detained for days, the only exercise available was 
that of walking over the level floes. Some of the 
men were wont to march around, under the light of 
the moon, singing aloud their wild and uncouth 
songs. When tired of walking, Lockwood would 
creep into a cozy corner of the launch, and pore over 
a pocket copy of Shakespeare which he had fortunate- 
ly brought along ; and then, after getting into his 
sleeping-bag, his thoughts would wander far away 
and find expression in such words as these : " What 
are they doing at home ? How often I think of the 
dear ones there ! The dangers and uncertainties 
ahead of us are only aggravated by the thoughts 
of the concern felt by them on my account, Most 
of us have given up the idea of getting home this 
fall." 

On the 3d of September, while in the floe below 
Cape Hawks, Lieutenant Greely held a consultation 
with Lockwood, Kislingbury, Pavy, and Brainard, 
expressing the opinion that their situation was criti- 
cal, and that they were really working for their 
lives. One of the suggestions was that the launch 
should be abandoned, and further progress made in 



290 FARTHEST NORTH. 

the smaller boats along the western shore of the 
strait ; but to this, Greely and the majority ob- 
jected, still hoping that they might yet be able to 
reach Littleton Island through a lead or over the 
young ice. On the 6th the hunter Jans killed his 
fourth seal, and was rewarded by a drink of rum. 
After five more days of travel, and while approaching 
Cocked-Hat Island, there was a great excitement caused 
by the report that one of the men had heard the 
barking of dogs, whereupon guns were fired and a 
flag displayed ; but all the commotion ended in noth- 
ing. The tides were contrary, the small boat was 
abandoned, and the outlook was very gloomy. The 
faithful Esquimaux, Frederick, who had latterly been 
somewhat unlucky as a hunter, now came to the 
front by killing a seal that weighed six hundred 
pounds, receiving the usual drink of rum. On this 
occasion Lockwood mentioned that he swallowed 
a cupful of the seal's blood, and found it somewhat 
tasteless. On the 5th of September, the party 
after great labor came abreast of Victoria Head and 
Cape Albert, and while drifting along on the floe the 
American flag was hoisted over the launch, and the 
fire under the engine was put out to save coal, Lock- 
wood enjoying a little needed sleep. On the 7th 
they came in sight of the coast extending from Alex- 
ander Harbor to Cape Sabine, and the impossibility of 
proceeding in the launch becoming apparent, it was 
decided to resort to sledge-travel, two of the sledges to 
carry a boat each, and both of them to be drawn by 
the men. When they were fully prepared for moving, 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 291 

it was found that one of them weighed 1,700 pounds 
and the other 2,100 pounds. Owing to the various 
difficulties which soon beset the travelers, they were 
obliged to abandon one of the boats, whereby it be- 
came necessary to retrace several sections of the 
journey for the purpose of bringing on the extra 
supplies, thus adding greatly to the fatigue of the 
men. Lockwood now expressed his doubts as to 
whether he would live to write out his notes, and 
also his fears that the floe upon which the party 
then were, might take them down into Baffin's Bay. 
Not only were they at the mercy of the floe, but the 
currents were contrary, sludge-ice abundant, and their 
supply of food reduced to seal-blubber, bread, and tea. 
At one time, strange to say, their position in the straits 
was directly north of Littleton Island, and nearer 
the Greenland coast than that of Grinnell Land. It 
now seemed to Lockwood that there was nothing 
ahead of them but starvation and death, and yet the 
men kept up their spirits in a manner that greatly sur- 
prised him. One of the floes upon which they had 
drifted for many days, when found to be cracking in 
one or two places, caused the party to move upon 
another nearer the shore, and in a short time the 
floe previously occupied was entirely broken up. On 
the 29th of September, the floe on which they were 
floating, finally touched another toward the west, 
and that another connected with the shore, by which 
means they were enabled to reach the land, very 
thankful to be in a place of security once more. The 
locality was really a rock forming a promontory be- 



292 FARTHEST NORTH. 

tween two glaciers, and thought to be about thirteen 
miles directly south of Cape Sabine. To that place a 
reconnoitring party was at once sent, but the cape 
could not be reached on account of open water near 
it, and the party was compelled to return. In the 
mean time, arrangements were made for building out 
of stones and ice the necessary huts for protection 
during the coming winter, should it be their fate to 
remain there. While this work was progressing, it 
was decided that the daily rations would have to be 
reduced. Lockwood expressed the opinion that they 
had only three chances for their lives : first, the chance 
of finding an American cache at Cape Sabine ; secondly, 
a chance of crossing the straits, here thirty-five miles 
wide, when their provisions were gone ; thirdly, the 
chance of being able to kill enough game for their 
support during the winter. A second effort was 
made by Rice and a party to reach Cape Sabine, which 
was successful. They not only brought news about 
the wreck of the Proteus, but also a copy of the 
Army Register for 1883, in which appeared Lock- 
wood's name as a first lieutenant. Rice also succeed- 
ed in discovering the English cache with two hundred 
and forty rations, the cache left by the Neptune in 
1882, and the stores brought from the wreck of the 
Proteus in 1883, all of which information was hailed 
with delight by the party. Among the stores left 
by the Proteus, a newspaper slip was picked up, from 
which was gathered the news that President Garfield 
had died ; that the Jeannette had been lost ; and that 
serious apprehensions were felt in the United States 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 293 

about the fate of the Gfreely Expedition. This latter 
intelligence gave Lockwood great pain, seeming al- 
most prophetic, except in the remark "lying down 
under the great stars to die ! " and induced him to 
make this record : " This article gives me great pain, 
because of the alarm and sorrow which must be felt by 
my dear father and mother and sisters on my behalf. 
Should my ambitious hopes be disappointed, and these 
lines only, meet the eyes of those so dear, may they 
not in thought add to my many faults and failings 
that of ingratitude or want of affection in not record- 
ing more frequently my thoughts regarding them ! " 

One of the results of the trip made by Eice to 
Cape Sabine was the selection of a spot, between the 
cape and Cocked-Hat Island, for a home during the 
approaching winter. Here, officers and • men alike 
laboring, a new hut was built, which was forthwith 
occupied by the party, all the supplies being at once 
brought from the camp south of Cape Sabine. The 
place where they now found themselves established, 
Lieutenant Greely called Camp Clay, in honor of 
one of the party — a grandson of Henry Clay — who 
had been attached to the expedition until it reached 
Lady Franklin Bay, whence he returned home on ac- 
count of his health. As soon as the new hut was 
occupied, the announcement was made that six of 
the party were on the sick list ; but shortly afterward, 
and notwithstanding the deplorable condition of af- 
fairs, Lockwood recorded the following in his jour- 
nal : "We are all now in comparatively high spir- 
its, and look forward to getting back to the United 



294 FARTHEST NORTH. 

States with a great deal of certainty. We shall have 
to liye on half-rations or less until April, and there 
will be shortness of fuel. Many hardships are ob- 
vious, but we all feel sound again." 

On the 23d of October, twelve of the party went 
from Camp Clay upon a visit to Csupe Sabine, and, 
while some of them opened the English cache at the 
south side of Payer Harbor, Lockwood built a cairn 
there and deposited under it, among other things, the 
records of the expedition, with a note in lead-pencil to 
the following effect : 

" October 23, 1883.— This cairn contains the origi- 
nal records of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, the 
private journal of Lieutenant Lockwood, and a set of 
photographic negatives. The party is permanently 
encamped at a point midway between Cape Sabine and 
Cocked-Hat Island. All well. 

"J. B. Lockwood, 
"First Lieutenant Ticenty-third Infantry ." 

On their way back to Camp Clay, Dr. Pavy met 
with an accident to one of his feet, and, while most 
of the party went on, Lockwood and Ellison remained 
behind to look after him. When night came on, they 
lost their way, stumbling and floundering over the 
rubble-ice until overcome by fatigue and hunger ; but 
were revived by a limited mutton stew on their ar- 
rival at the camp. One of the results to Lockwood 
of his Samaritan conduct was an accident to one of 
his knees, which gave him trouble for several days, 
and prevented his being as useful as he desired in 



HOMEWAKD BOUND. 295 

contributing to the comfort of the party. It was 
about this time that Lieutenant Greely declared his 
intention of reducing the rations, all assenting, so 
that they might last until the 1st of March; and 
this fact, added to the discovery that some of their 
meat was far more bony than it should have been, 
caused some consternation. Cold, dampness, dark- 
ness, and hunger continued to be their hourly and 
daily portion, the allowance of food being only about 
one fourth of what they actually needed. 



XVIII. 
THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 

While the following pages will contain necessarily 
brief notices of the life of the party during an entire 
winter, they must conclude with the record of the 
great calamity which befell the band of heroes. Short- 
ly after they found themselves settled for a campaign 
of idleness, as they expected it to be, Lockwood was 
again confined to his sleeping-bag on account of an 
injury to his feet which had not been properly pro- 
tected ; his discomforts being aggravated by the re- 
flection that both provisions and fuel were beginning 
to reach a low-tide level. The constant hunger which 
was experienced by all hands went far to make their 
circumstances dismal and depressing ; while the only 
entertainment that could be provided was the reading 
aloud, by one of the men, of a story and some newspa- 
per scraps which Rice had picked up at Cape Sabine. 
A little excitement was afforded by a lottery for the 
distribution of some clothing and two mattresses which 
had been brought ashore from the Proteus, one of 
the latter falling to the lot of Lockwood. And now 
came a proposition for a sledge expedition, not to dis- 
cover islands, glaciers, fiords, and prominent capes, 
but to go after the abandoned whale-boat which had 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 297 

floated down with the floe. This must be broken up 
and used for fuel. Then followed another expedi- 
tion, occupying not less than eight days, to Cape Isa- 
bella, to obtain one hundred pounds of preserved 
meat left there by the English. Feeling the want of 
exercise, Lockwood occasionally took a long walk, and 
on one occasion was so hungry when he returned, 
that he could not wait for the regular evening meal, 
but fastened upon a lot of moldy potatoes which had 
been abandoned, and with these filled his stomach, 
almost expecting that the feast would cause his death. 
Some of the men went still further, for, when a blue 
or a white fox was killed, even the entrails of the ani- 
mal were devoured. Food was the constant subject 
of conversation with all of the party — what they 
would be able to get, what they had enjoyed in former 
years at their distant homes, and what they expected 
to enjoy after their return from the North. Not only 
were their supplies getting lower day by day, but the 
only warm thing they could now afford was a cup of 
tea, excepting on Sunday, when they had a little rum 
with a bit of lemon. 

On the 25th of November, the sun disappeared from 
view, not to be seen again until the following Febru- 
ary, and now the gloom of the time and place was 
greatly increased. On that day Lockwood recorded 
in his journal the following : "I have intended writ- 
ing a letter home recounting my experiences since leav- 
ing Fort Conger, but so far the discomforts of this life 
have prevented me. It is difficult to get the blubber- 
lamp for more than a few minutes during the day, and 



298 FARTHEST NORTH. 

sometimes it can not be had at all. The lamp is 
blown out every evening when we are ready to retire, 
which is generally about eight o'clock." 

Nor were their troubles in any way alleviated by 
the discovery that one of the men had been seen, or 
was suspected of, visiting the store-room to fill himself 
with food — especially despicable thieving. The ex- 
pedition to Cape Isabella resulted in finding the food 
which, however, was abandoned in returning, as one of 
the men, Ellison, became very sick, and had his hands, 
feet, and nose frozen. He was brought home by a relief 
party in a helpless condition, Lockwood and the other 
men of the party having completely worn themselves 
out by exposure to the cold and hard work. As it 
was feared that the men would become insane if they 
did not stop talking about food, Lieutenant Greely 
began to deliver some lectures on the geography of the 
United States and their natural productions ; and this 
was followed by miscellaneous discussions in regard 
to places for business. Whistler, for example, praised 
the city of Independence, in Kansas, as a splendid 
place ; Long said he was going to set up a restaurant 
at Ann Arbor in Michigan ; Fredericks would follow 
suit at Minneapolis in Minnesota ; while Jewell 
counted upon a grocery-store in Kansas. 

After commenting upon the terrible weather, 
Lockwood gave expression to the following : " These 
short rations make me feel the cold dreadfully. It is 
a constant effort to keep one's hands and feet comfort- 
able, or even comparatively so. I find my spirits first 
up and then down. Sometimes, when I think of the 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 299 

months before us of this life of misery and suffering, 
I do not see how we can possibly pull through. At 
other times I feel much more hopeful ; but this is a 
life of inexpressible misery." 

For several days before the arrival of Thanksgiving- 
day, a great feast was anticipated and on that day en- 
joyed, including a favorite dish called by them " son- 
of-a-gun" composed of bread, raisins, milk, and a lit- 
tle blubber ; nor did the exiles omit the reading of a 
few chapters from the Bible. In the evening Lock- 
wood entertained the party with his experiences as a 
farmer at Annapolis, all being interested, and he wound 
up by inviting the whole of the company to assem- 
ble there and enjoy a dinner with him on the next 
Thanksgiving-day, the said dinner to be composed in 
part of a roast turkey stuffed with oysters and eaten 
with cranberries. In return for this compliment, 
each one of the audience invited Lockwood to partake 
with him of a feast after their return home, and ex- 
patiated with great gusto on the dishes that he pro- 
posed to have served. The promise made by Lynn 
was a roasted turkey ; Ealston, hot hoe-cake ; Ellis, 
spare-rib ; Long, pork-chops ; Biederbick, old regi- 
ment dish called buffers ; Connell, Irish stew ; Ben- 
der, a roasted pig ; Snyder, tenderloin -steak ; Brain- 
ard, peaches and cream ; Fredericks, black cake and 
preserves ; Saler, veal cutlets ; Whistler, flapjacks 
and molasses ; Jewell, roasted oysters on toast ; Rice, 
clam-chowder ; Israel, hashed liver ; Gardiner, Vir- 
ginia pone ; Ellison, Vienna sausage ; Pavy, pdte-de- 
fois-gras j Henry, Hamburg steak ; Kislingbury, 



300 FARTHEST NORTH. 

hashed turkey, chicken, and yeal; Greely, Parker 
House rolls, coffee, cheese, omelette, rice, and chicken 
curry. It was after this jolly discussion of imaginary 
good things that the party sat down to a stew of seal- 
blubber and nothing more. The next day Lockwood 
partook of his first dish of seal-skin which he found 
as hard to digest as it was difficult to swallow. 

On one occasion, when nearly all were asleep, a 
scratching noise was heard upon the roof, and it was 
ascertained that a blue fox was trying to make an 
entrance. The same night the ears of the sleepers 
were saluted by a loud roar, caused by the ice mov- 
ing down the straits, a sound most terrible to human 
nerves. At one time, after Lockwood had expressed 
his gratitude for enjoying warm feet for a whole 
night, he resumed the subject of food, and then 
penned the following: "My mind dwells constantly 
on the dishes of my childhood at home. my dear 
home, and the dear ones there ! Can it be possi- 
ble I shall some day see them again, and that these 
days of misery will pass away ? My dear father, is he 
still alive ? My dear mother and sisters, Harry, and 
my nieces and brothers-in-law, how often do I think of 
them ! Only three days more to the top of the hill ! " 
(alluding to the longest night, or winter solstice). 

" As to my bread, I always eat it regretfully. If 
I eat it before tea, I regret that I did not keep it ; and 
if I wait until tea comes and then eat it, I drink my 
tea rather hastily and do not get the satisfaction 
out of the cold meat and bread I otherwise would. 
What a miserable life, where a few crumbs of bread 



THE FINAL CATASTKOPHE. 301 

weigh so heavily on one's mind ! It seems to be so 
with all the rest. All sorts of expedients are tried to 
cheat one's stomach, but with about the same result. 
By way of securing the idea of a warm piece of 
meat, I sometimes pour upon it a bit of my hot tea, 
but the effort proves futile." 

On the 21st of December, the day which Lock- 
wood had long been anticipating with pleasure, he ex- 
pressed his gratification in these words : " The top of 
the hill ! the most glorious day of this dreary journey 
through the valley of cold and hunger has at last 
come, and is now nearly gone. Thank God, the glo- 
rious sun commences to return, and every day gets 
lighter and brings him nearer ! It is an augury that 
we shall yet pull through all right." In view of his 
ultimate fate, how unutterably to aching are these 
hopeful words ! 

Before the close of that day, however, he made 
another record in his journal, which forcibly illus- 
trates their deplorable condition, as follows : 

" Had a good fox-stew this evening. By a great 
effort I was able to save one ounce of my bread and 
about two ounces of butter, for Christmas. I shall 
make a vigorous effort to abstain from eating it before 
then. Put it in charge of Biederbick as an addi- 
tional safeguard." 

Among the entertainments enjoyed by the party 
were lectures by Lieutenant Greely on the several 
States of the Union. After one of them, on Louisi- 
ana, had been delivered, Lockwood added to it an 
account of his trip from Baltimore to Texas, and 



302 FARTHEST NORTH. 

that from New Orleans to Cincinnati, all of which 
narrative was well received. 

For several days before Christmas, all were eagerly 
looking forward to the grand forthcoming dinner and 
talking abont it, a number of them, like Lockwood, 
saving np a part of their scanty daily allowance for 
the occasion. Lockwood mentioned that when he 
proposed to exchange the promise of a fine Christ- 
mas-dinner on their return home for a piece of dog- 
biscuit delivered at once, he found no one ready 
to accept his liberal offer. The Christmas-dinner 
was similar to that on Thanksgiving-day ; various 
songs were sung, and, at the close of the feast, hearty 
cheers were given for Lieutenant G-reely, Corporal 
Ellison, Kice the photographer, and the two cooks. 

On Christmas-night all the party enjoyed a re- 
freshing sleep, and the next day there was much talk 
about the distant homes and friends. Lockwood was 
greatly pleased to learn that his comrades had formed 
a high opinion of his father from what Greely and he 
had occasionally told them ; and, while describing the 
family reunions in "Washington, he was affected to 
tears for the first time during his Northern campaign, 
excepting when Eice had come from Esquimaux 
Point with the Garlington records, when his tears 
were the result of gratitude. 

In a region where eating had become pre-eminently 
the chief end of man, it is not strange that the busi- 
ness of marketing should have become popular. How 
it was managed may be gathered from the following 
paragraph : " To-day has been a market-day, every- 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 303 

body trading rations — bread for butter, meat for 
bread, bread for soup, etc. A great deal of talking 
done, but not many solid trades made, I traded 
about half of my to-morrow's son-of-a-gun for about 
eight ounces of bread ; then I gave Brainard one 
ounce and a half of butter for two dog-biscuits, but 
my trading did not prove profitable." 

As for New-Year's-day, it came and departed with- 
out any special demonstrations : the son-of-a-gun was 
enjoyed by all parties ; many of the ice-bound hearts 
were warmed by memories of home ; and Greely and 
Lockwood had a long talk about the condition of af- 
fairs, and the prospects for the future. 

The business of trading among the explorers be- 
ing discouraged, did not long continue, but was suc- 
ceeded by some other importations from civilization, 
viz., the taking of property of other people without 
leave or license. A report was made to Lieutenant 
Greely that some one had taken a quarter of a pound 
of bacon, left in the stearin by the cook ; also that a 
barrel of bread had been broken open and two pounds 
taken away. This proved that the bears and the 
foxes were not the only thieves to be found in the 
Arctic regions. The man suspected of the deed was 
closely watched and had a narrow escape from being 
properly punished. 

On the 10th of January, the case of poor Corporal 
Ellison was again brought up for discussion and 
prompt action. It had been hoped that his frosted 
feet would be restored to their normal condition, but 
this was not to be, for they were both amputated by 



304: FARTHEST NORTH. 

Nature, and two of his fingers "besides. Strange to say, 
this was accomplished without his being aware of what 
was taking place, so little vitality remained in these 
parts. When we recall the sufferings of this man, in 
connection with his surroundings and his distance 
from the comforts of home, we must conclude that 
the stories of fiction can not eclipse the wonders of 
actual life and experience. What a combination there 
of cold and hunger, bodily pain and mental anguish, 
darkness and perpetual storms ! 

As we pass oyer the daily records made by Lock- 
wood in his journal at this particular time, we find 
food and the dangers of starvation to be the absorb- 
ing themes. It seems strange that, in a land of ice 
and snow, there should have been any apprehensions 
about a sufficient supply of drinking-water ; but this 
was the case, and the fact came home to the exiles when 
they found that their supply of tea had to be reduced 
to half a cup per man. Good water was not only 
scarce, but could not be obtained from the neighbor- 
ing lake, their sole dependence, without great toil in 
chopping away the ice. They had the ice, of course, 
but there was not sufficient fuel to reduce it to a 
liquid. 

As they could keep warm only by remaining in 
their sleeping-bags, the manner of visiting each other 
was simply to exchange sleeping-bags ; and thus, when 
Lockwood wanted to have a talk with Greely, one 
of the companions of the latter would exchange bags 
with the visitor. 

On the 18th of January, another cloud was thrown 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 305 

upon the party by the death of Cross. He died of a 
kind of heart-disease, induced, it was supposed, by 
intemperance in drinking. For several hours before 
his death he uttered low moans which seemed a kind 
of echo from the grinding of the far-off ice-fields. His 
remains were enveloped in coffee-sacks and an Ameri- 
can flag, and deposited in a stony grave near the neigh- 
boring lake, the only funeral remarks having been 
made by Lieutenant Lockwood. 

On the 21st, Lockwood had a talk with Greely 
about his own health ; said he was very weak, and had 
been so for two weeks, but had not mentioned it for 
fear of depressing the men ; he could not account for 
it, and concluded by saying that if he should not be 
well or better when the time came to make the con- 
templated passage of the straits, he desired to be left 
behind with his share of the rations, and then be sent 
for from Littleton Island. To this Greely replied 
that he would never harbor such an idea for a sin- 
gle moment ; that he would never abandon a living 
soul. 

On the 2d of February, Rice and Jans started to 
test the passage of the straits, hoping to reach Little- 
ton Island, where they expected to find some provis- 
ions or a relief-ship. But, alas ! they were stopped 
by open water, and not successful, though fchey trav- 
eled about fifty miles up and down the floes, and were 
absent four days. Owing to the bad weather, they 
did not even get a glimpse of the coast of Greenland. 
All were greatly disappointed, and some felt that 
death from starvation was staring them in the face ; 



306 FARTHEST NORTH. 

and yet they found some relief in the increased light 
preceding the reappearance of the snn. Lockwood, 
who now became despondent and apathetic, endeav- 
ored to peer into the future, and wondered whether 
his bones were really to be left in the Arctic regions. 
He mourned oyer the fact that he had not been as 
good a son and as kind a brother as he might have 
been, and hoped that the dear ones at home would 
remember him as he wished to be, and not as he had 
been. As to the end, he hoped it would come soon, 
whatever it might be ; and he declared himself pos- 
sessed by a feeling of indifference to hunger, cold, 
and gloom, "all of them enemies of existence." 
After mourning over the approaching fate of Ellison, 
he recorded these touching words: "How often I 
think of the dear ones at home, the Sunday evening 
reunions, and all the bright and happy pictures that 
present themselves ! My dear, good old father ! may 
he look with charity on my many short-comings ! My 
dear mother and sisters and Harry, brothers-in-law, 
and nieces ! I trust that they are well and happy, 
and, if I do not pull through this, will learn to look 
on my memory kindly ! " An allusion that he now 
made to his companions in suffering was to this ef- 
fect : " The party presents a bold front, and is not 
wanting in spirit. If our fate is the worst, I do not 
think we shall disgrace the name of Americans and of 
soldiers." The attempt of Eice to cross the straits to 
Littleton Island was heroic in the extreme, and his 
pluck was further exemplified by a proposition that he 
submitted to Greely to make a second effort to cross 



THE FItfAL CATASTROPHE. 307 

the straits, and that, too, unattended by any com- 
panion ; but the idea was not sanctioned. 

On the 22d of February, strange to say, a raven 
made its appearance in the vicinity of the Arctic 
camp, but was not killed, although it might have 
been enjoyed at the forthcoming dinner. It must 
have been a great relief to some of the party that it 
disappeared without uttering its dreadful cry, "Never- 
more I " as translated by the poet, Poe. 

On the 27th, not knowing what might happen to 
him, Lockwood wrote the following in his journal : 
" The chronometer in my pocket is the one used on 
the trip to 83° 24' and on all my trips in this region. 
My intention is to buy it, but, in case I do not get 
back, I would have it purchased and kept in the fam- 
ily." 

When the sun first made its appearance above the 
horizon, as it carried his mind away to his far-distant 
home, he gave expression to this emotion : "0 God ! 
how many years of my life would I give to be there ! " 

Every day, observations were made from neighbor- 
ing elevations to ascertain the condition of the straits 
separating them from the Greenland coast which was 
distinctly visible in clear weather, hoping without 
hope to see it frozen over from shore to shore ; but the 
lateness of the season precluded all reasonable expecta- 
tion of such a result, and the daily reports of open 
water were depressing in the extreme. On the 13th 
of March, the announcement was made that the sup- 
plies of coffee, chocolate, and canned vegetables were 
all exhausted, and that henceforth they would have 



308 FARTHEST NORTH. 

to depend almost entirely on pemmican, bacon, bread, 
and tea, all of which, though given in one-third ra- 
tions only, would not last for more than a month, thus 
leaving them without supplies to cross the straits in 
the event of a satisfactory freeze. In view of all these 
circumstances, it is impossible to imagine how they 
could quietly continue their preparations for a journey 
to the supposed goal at Littleton Island. Surely the 
hope which inspired the sufferers was eternal and su- 
preme in its strength and pathos. " The straits/' said 
Lockwood, "are open, and I see no prospect of their 
freezing so that we can get across. Of course, I hope 
to the contrary ; for this means death, if we can 
find no game here." On a subsequent day he writes 
as follows : " We look to the end with equanimity, 
and the spirits of the party, in spite of the prospect 
of a miserable death, are certainly wonderful. I am 
glad as each day comes to an end. It brings us nearer 
the end of this life, whatever that end is to be." 

On the 23d of March, the last of the regular fuel 
was exhausted, and the food was so nearly gone 
that the men actually began to collect their seal-skin 
clothing and foot-gear for any emergency that might 
happen. Game was not only scarce, but the men were 
getting almost too weak to endure a hunt. To avoid 
long tramps, which were sure to be unsuccessful, they 
turned their attention to shrimp-fishing, but, as one 
man could only get three pounds in one day, the 
prospect in this direction was not hopeful. 

During the month of March and the early part of 
April, there was nothing done by the able-bodied mem- 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 309 

bers of the party but to try to secure some game, the 
only incidents occurring to interrupt the monotony 
being the deaths of the Esquimaux Frederick Chris- 
tiansen, and Sergeant Lynn. The former had been 
complaining for a week or more, but nobody thought 
him in danger, and he died unexpectedly. Lock- 
wood's tribute to him was to this effect : " He was a 
good man, and I felt a great affection for him. He 
constantly worked hard in my service, and never 
spared himself on our sledge-trips. His death makes 
me feel very sorrowful." He was buried by the side 
of Cross, near the lake. The death of Lynn was also 
unexpected. He fully appreciated his condition, and 
gave some directions regarding his last wishes. He 
was much liked, and highly spoken of by all. After 
the burial service had been read at the house by Lieu- 
tenant Greely, his remains were also placed by the 
lake-side with those of Cross and the Esquimaux. 

The drama was about to close, the curtain already 
falling upon the band of heroes : 

" And their hearts, though stout and brave, 
Still, like muffled drums were beating 
Funeral marches to the grave." 

The phantom of Starvation, which had long been 
following them over the ice and snow, and dallying 
with their hopes and fears as they lay in their com- 
fortless camps, had now become a terrible reality, 
determined to assert all his powers. Three of his 
victims were already under the snow, and were soon 
followed by several others, including the one who had 



310 FARTHEST NORTH. 

directed them in many of their duties and befriended 
them in trouble, and whose honored name, attached 
to a noted island and a famed headland in the Arctic 
world, will be forever remembered with pride and af- 
fection by his countrymen. 

The concluding paragraph in Lieutenant Lock- 
wood's journal was written on the 7th of April, 1884, 
and alludes to the sickness and death of his two 
comrades. In the last allusion that he makes to him- 
self, he speaks of his excessive weakness, and of the 
fact that he could not rise from his sleeping-bag with- 
out great difficulty. His death occurred two days 
afterward. 

Having been permitted to examine an elaborate 
and interesting journal kept by Sergeant Brainard, a 
few notices relating to the closing days and the death 
of Lieutenant Lockwood are reproduced, as follows : 

January 12, 188 J/.. — Lieutenant Lockwood is very 
weak. He has been saving the greater portion of his 
bread and meat for several days, and talks to himself 
about food. He frequently looks intently at the lamp, 
and requests that it be kept burning all night. 

January 20th. — Lieutenant Lockwood is growing 
weaker and weaker. He said to me a few days ago, 
" Brainard, I have lost my grip," meaning that he 
had lost his last hope of life. 

January 2JftJi. — Lieutenant Lockwood seems to be 
in better spirits to-day. 

January 28th, — The doctor said to-day that if 
Lieutenant Lockwood did not brace up, he would 
never recover. 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 3H 

January 30th. — Lieutenant Lockwood is growing 
steadily weaker, and talks but seldom now. I wish 
he would try to be more cheerful. 

February 15th. — Lieutenant Lockwood is better, 
but does not improve so rapidly as I would wish. 

April J+th. — The rations of Lieutenant Lockwood 
and Linn have been increased to one fourth of a dove- 
kie each per day. 

April 5th. — I am afraid that Lieutenant Lockwood 
and Linn will soon follow the faithful Esquimaux, 
who has just died. They can not, or they will not, 
eat shrimps any more. Although they are both given 
an extra allowance of dovekie, it is not sufficient to 
restore them. 

April 7th. — Lieutenant Lockwood and Jewell will 
soon follow Linn. They are very weak and failing 
rapidly. 

April 8th. — Lieutenant Lockwood fell in a faint 
in the alley-way, and much difficulty was experienced 
in resuscitating him. 

April 9th. — Lieutenant Lockwood became uncon- 
scious at an early hour this morning, and at 4.20 p. m. 
he breathed his last. His end was painless and with- 
out a struggle. This will be a sad and unexpected 
blow to his family, who evidently idolized him. To 
me it is also a sorrowful event. He had been my com- 
panion during long and eventful excursions, and my 
feelings toward him were akin to those of a brother. 
Biederbick, who was with him at the last moment, 
and I straightened his limbs and prepared his re- 
mains for burial. It is the saddest duty I have ever 
14 



312 FARTHEST NORTH. 

been called on to perform, and I hope I may never 
experience the like again. A few days prior to his 
death he had spoken of writing to his family, but, 
owing to weakness, had deferred the matter until too 
late. 

April 10th. — The last sad rites were performed 
over the remains of our late comrade, and he was in- 
terred with the others on Cemetery Kidge, Lieutenant 
G-reely reading the Episcopal service. 

To the above may be added the following remark 
made by Brainard in regard to his friend Lockwood : 
"The lieutenant was buried in an officer's blouse. It 
affected me deeply to pass his grave, as I thought of 
the leader of our little party which had carried the 
Stars and Stripes beyond the English Jack ; but this 
feeling soon wore away, and, as I had so many other 
horrible things to occupy my mind, I became some- 
what indifferent." 

But wholly indifferent he could not be, even when 
he saw two men in one sleeping-bag, one of them a 
corpse, and the other too weak to assist in pulling 
the body out for burial. 

Another and most touching reference made by 
Brainard to the burial-place of his friend Lockwood 
occurs in his journal under date of May 31, 1884, and 
is as follows : "In my daily journeys across Cemetery 
Eidge, it was but natural at first that my reflections 
should be sad and gloomy. Here lie my departed com- 
rades, and to their left is the vacant space where, in a 
few days, my own remains will be deposited if sufficient 
strength remain to those who may survive me. The 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 313 

brass buttons on Lieutenant Lockwood's blouse, worn 
bright by the flying gravel, protruded through the 
scanty covering of earth which our depleted strength 
barely enabled us to place oyer him. At first these 
dazzling buttons would awaken thoughts of those 
bright days spent at Fort Conger, of the half -forgotten 
scene of his death, and of the universal sorrow that 
was felt at his departure. But later my own wretched 
circumstances served to counteract these feelings, and 
I would pass and repass this place without emotion, 
and almost with indifference." 

The supply of food had been almost entirely ex- 
hausted during the first few days of April, and it was 
impossible to obtain any game or rations from distant 
caches. An effort made by Eice to secure certain pro- 
visions that had been abandoned on a former expedi- 
tion in order to save the life of Ellison when frozen, 
resulted in his own death, breathing his last in the 
arms of Fredericks, his only companion, who buried 
him in a lonely, ice-made grave. Nor were the hor- 
rors of the situation lessened by the discovery that the 
man Henry had been guilty of stealing their food, for 
which, after ample warning, under orders from Lieu- 
tenant Greely, he was summarily shot, according to 
the law of self-preservation. His remains were not 
deposited in the cemetery, but by themselves in a 
place near by. 

The total number of deaths out of the twenty-five 
composing the complete party of explorers was nine- 
teen, and, while twelve of them were buried at Camp 
Clay, the remainder, like the lamented Rice, were 



314 FARTHEST NORTII. 

buried elsewhere or where they died. Jans was lost in 
his kyack. During a discussion that occurred, about 
the final disposition of the dead, Lieutenant G-reely 
expressed the wish that the remains of his men might 
be left undisturbed. They had died, he said, beneath 
Arctic skies. Arctic desolation witnessed their suffer- 
ings, heard their cries of anguish. They are buried 
in Arctic soil. Let them lie where they fell. Lock- 
wood told me that he wanted to rest forever on the 
field of his work. Why disturb them ? Why not re- 
spect their wishes ? 

Before closing this chapter it seems proper that an 
allusion should be made to alleged cannibalism at 
Camp Clay. The writer of this was informed by Ser- 
geant Brainard that such might haye been the case, 
but that not a single one of the survivors had ever 
known or witnessed anything of the kind. So far as 
Lieutenant Lockwood was concerned, it was positively 
established, by unimpeachable testimony, that his re- 
mains were not mutilated in the least degree. When 
carefully carried, with all the others, on board the 
ship that was to bring them to the United States, his 
remains were perfect in every respect, and of this his 
father has the assurance of those who saw them. 

In view of the fact that Sergeant David L. Brain- 
ard accompanied Lieutenant Lockwood in all his ex- 
plorations, it seems only proper that a notice of his 
life should appear in this volume. He was born in 
Norway, Herkimer County, New York, December 21, 
1856, his parents having come from Massachusetts. 
His father was of French extraction and his mother 



THE FINAL CATASTROPHE. 315 

of English stock. He attended a district school until 
his eleventh year, when he removed with his family 
to Freetown, Cortland County, New York, where 
he attended the State Normal School. On the 18th 
of September, 1876, he enlisted at New York city 
in the regular army, being assigned to Company L, 
Second Cavalry, then stationed at Fort Ellis, in Mon- 
tana Territory. He joined his troops late that year 
after an arduous journey of five hundred miles on 
horseback from Corinne, Utah. In' the following 
spring he participated in the Indian campaigns under 
General Miles, along the Yellowstone Eiver and its 
tributaries, and was wounded in the face while in ac- 
tion with the Sioux, at Muddy Creek, Montana, May 
7, 1877. In August of the same year, he was selected 
as one of four men to act as escort to General Sher- 
man and party in their tour through the National 
Park. In October following, he was made a corpo- 
ral, and in July, 1879, was promoted to be a sergeant. 
He was frequently in charge of parties in the field on 
detached service, and was intrusted with important 
missions by his commanding officers. Lieutenant 
Doane, Second Cavalry, recommended him for detail 
on the Howgate Polar Expedition in May, 1880, Brain- 
ard visiting Washington for that purpose. The enter- 
prise having been abandoned, he was ordered back 
to his regiment at Fort Assiniboin, on Milk Eiver. 
Early in the spring of 1881, Lieutenant Greely re- 
quested his detail on the Lady Franklin Bay Expedi- 
tion, and, on his arrival in Washington, appointed him 
first sergeant of the expedition, which position he 



316 FARTHEST NORTH. 

held during the three years of Arctic seryice. On 
the 1st of August, 1884, he was transferred, with the 
rank of sergeant, to the United States Signal Corps, 
haying always acquitted himself with ability and hon- 
or as a man, a soldier, and an explorer. 



XIX. 

THE WOEFUL RETURN. 

Without stopping to discuss the action of Con- 
gress or the Government officials in regard to send- 
ing relief to the Greely Expedition, the writer de- 
sires to mention that the names of Senator Joseph R. 
Hawley and Representative E. John Ellis, because 
of their manly action in Congress in behalf of the 
suffering explorers, are far more deserving of places 
on the charts of the North than those of many oth- 
ers which have thus been honored. In 1882 a vessel 
called the Neptune, Captain William Sopp, was char- 
tered at St. John's, Newfoundland, and with a full 
supply of provisions was dispatched for Lady Frank- 
lin Bay, but failing in her mission returned to New- 
foundland without leaving any of her supplies in the 
North, but bringing them all back to St. John's ! 
In 1883 the steamer Proteus, Captain Richard Pike, 
was rechartered at St. John's, and with a full supply 
of provisions sailed for Discovery Harbor, but was 
crushed in the ice near Cape Sabine, her crew suc- 
ceeding in landing in a safe place a small part of 
her cargo, some of which was subsequently utilized 
by the Greely party. 

In 1884 a third rescuing expedition was organized 



318 FARTHEST NORTH. 

and dispatched for the relief of the Greely exploring 
party. That expedition was composed of a squadron 
of three ships, the Thetis, the Bear, and the Alert, un- 
der the command of Commander Winfield S. Schley, of 
the United States Navy. They left St. John's on the 
12th of May, and, after the usual tribulations along 
the western coast of Greenland, reached the vicinity 
of Cape Sabine, and discovered the Greely party at 
Camp Clay, on Sunday, the 22d of June, seventy- 
three days after the death of Lieutenant Lockwood. 
The discovery was then made that, out of the twenty- 
five men connected with the Greely Expedition only 
seven were alive, viz., Lieutenant Greely, Brainard, 
Biederbick, Fredericks, Long, Connell, and Ellison. 
As soon as the survivors could be relieved and trans- 
ferred to the ships, the remains of the dead were 
exhumed with care and taken to the ships for trans- 
portation to the United States, excepting the remains 
of Esquimaux Frederick, which were left at Disco. 

As the pictures presented by the survivors lying 
in their camp, dazed with suffering and surprise and 
a joy they could not manifest, and the incidents they 
subsequently narrated of intense suffering, can only 
prove heart-rending to the reader, they will not now 
be dwelt upon. The departure of the ships, with 
their strange list of dead and living passengers, 
seemed to enhance the gloom which filled the sky and 
rested upon the sea. Their condition was so deplor- 
able, that a delay of a very few days would have left 
none to tell the tale of woe and suffering. At least 
two could not have lived twenty-four hours. That 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 319 

this time was gained, under the stimulus of the twen- 
ty-five thousand dollars reward, appears from an arti- 
cle written by an officer of the Relief Expedition and 
published in the " Century " of May, 1885, as fol- 
lows : 

" The reward of twenty-five thousand dollars that 
Congress had offered for the first information of 
Greely had incited the whalers to take risks that they 
otherwise would have shunned. They had expressed 
a determination to strive for it, and were ever on the 
alert for a chance to creep northward. The Relief 
Squadron was determined, on its part, that the whal- 
ers should not secure the first information, and were 
equally zealous in pushing northward. It was this 
rivalry (a friendly one, for our relations with the 
whaling-captains were of the pleasantest nature) that 
hurried us across Melville Bay and brought us to- 
gether within sight of Cape York. It had been 
thought possible that Greely or an advance party 
might be there." 

Mr. Ellis proposed in the last session of Congress 
that, as the reward had not been spent, yet had con- 
tributed to the rescue, it should be appropriated to 
building, at Washington, a monument to the dead. 

The temporary halt at Disco Harbor was saddened 
by the death of Ellison, after prolonged sufferings, 
as if his noble spirit was determined to join its de- 
parted comrades in their passage to the skies from 
that Northern Land of Desolation. 

In the official record of the Relief Expedition, 
Commander Schley makes an allusion to the impor- 



320 FARTHEST NORTH. 

tant part taken by Lieutenant Lockwood in the Greely 
Expedition which should be repeated in this place. 
After submitting certain papers which had been found 
in a cairn at Breevort Island, he says : "It was a 
wonderful story. It told how the expedition, during 
its two years at Lady Franklin Bay, had marked out 
the interior of Grinnell Land, and how Lockwood 
had followed the northern shore of Greenland, and 
had reclaimed for America the honor of 'the far- 
thest north.'" 

On Thursday, the 17th of July, the Eelief Expedi- 
tion arrived at St. John's, Newfoundland, where they 
were kindly welcomed, and the tidings of their arrival 
promptly telegraphed to the anxious multitudes in the 
United States. Complete arrangements were made 
for the continuous voyage of the living and the dead 
to their several homes. 

In a dispatch which the Secretary of the Navy sent 
to Commander Schley, on the day of his return, he 
said, "Preserve tenderly the remains of the heroic 
dead," and that order was duly obeyed. They were 
placed in metallic caskets, , and the squadron sailed 
from St. John's on the 26th of July, arriving at Ports- 
mouth, New Hampshire, on the 2d of August. As 
the first duty after a battle is to bury the dead, it is 
to be regretted that this was not done before the dis- 
play was made at Portsmouth. It was not thus that 
England received her victorious fleet from Trafalgar, 
bearing home the remains of the dead hero Nelson. 
The mutilated remains of the dead should first have 
been delivered over to the bleeding hearts that 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 321 

awaited them. While so many uxmrned corpses re- 
mained in the ships, the celebration was but a ghastly 
jubilee. Kequiems should have been chanted before 
paeans were sung. The only casket removed from the 
ships at Portsmouth was that containing the remains 
of Sergeant Jewell, who was a native of New Hamp- 
shire. The squadron now sailed for New York, and 
on its arrival, the 8th of August, was received with 
great enthusiasm. Here the remains of the dead 
were delivered to the custody of the army commander 
at Governor's Island, by whom the final dispositions 
were made. The remains of Lieutenant Lockwood 
were forwarded to Annapolis and placed under a mili- 
tary guard, in the church of St. Anne, where the 
young hero had been baptized, confirmed, and received 
his first communion. The funeral was of a military 
character, and the attendance was very large, compre- 
hending all the naval, military, and civil organizations 
of the city. Eecalling the words of the poet "Whittier, 
many of the mourners present must have felt their 
special force, when he says : 

" I know not what the future hath 
Of marvel or surprise, 
Assured alone that life and death 
His mercy underlies." 

The remains of the hero lie in the beautiful ceme- 
tery of the Naval Academy, overlooking the place of 
his birth and the scenes of his childhood. An appro- 
priate tomb was erected over them, bearing this in- 
scription : 



322 FAKTHEST NORTH. 

JAMES BOOTH LOCKWOOD, 

LIEUTENANT UNITED STATES AKMY, 
BOEN AT ANNAPOLIS, MaEYLAND, 

October 9, 1852, 

Died at Cape Sabine, 

April 9, 1884. 

" The sufferings of this present time are not worthy to be com- 
pared with the glory that shall be revealed in us." 

On the day that the rector of St. Anne's church, 
Rev. William S. Southgate, gaye notice of the time 
of the burial, he made the following remarks : 

" One of the truths of the Bible, taught us by the 
Church, the most difficult to receive and to hold prac- 
tically, is that expressed in the words of the Collect 
for the last week : ' God, whose neyer-failing provi- 
dence ordereth all things both in heaven and on 
earth.' 

"The difficulty arises from the fact that in so 
many cases we can not discover either the justice or 
the mercy or even the expediency of that ordering. 

"And yet at times we get a glimpse of light that 
reveals much of the fitness and beauty of this divine 
ordering of events. Here is an example before us. 
There is a peculiar appropriateness in the ordering of 
events that brings James Booth Lockwood here to be 
buried. Born in this parish, baptized here, confirmed 
in St. Anne by Bishop Whittingham, April 19, 1868, 
he received his first communion at this altar on 
Christmas-day of the same year. The rector of the 
parish, who presented him for confirmation and ad- 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 323 

ministered to him the holy communion, has just been 
called suddenly to his rest. In the midst of untiring 
labors the call found them both at the post of duty, 
and both were taken away while in the performance 
of that duty. But there was something peculiarly 
sad in the circumstances and mode of young Lock- 
wood's death — circumstances due partly to the nature 
of the work in which he was engaged, partly to the 
fault of others. But what matters it how or when he 
died, if found at Death's call doing the duty assigned 
to him ? 

" One of the earliest of the adventurers along this 
coast, then as little known to the world as the Arctic 
regions are now to us, when his little ship was over- 
whelmed by the stormy sea, comforted the frightened 
and trembling helmsman with the assuring words, 
'My child, heaven is as near to us by sea as by land.' 
And so what matters it where we die and how we die, 
so long as we are reconciled to God, and are faithfully 
fulfilling our calling ? May God give us grace so to 
live that we may never be afraid to die in any place 
or in any manner ! " 

That the story and the fate of James B. Lockwood 
excited a profound sentiment of sorrow and admira- 
tion throughout the entire country was manifested 
in many ways, and a notice of some of them will 
form an appropriate conclusion to this in-memoriam 
volume. Among the first tributes of honor and affec- 
tion was the following official order published by the 
colonel of his regiment, announcing his death to the 
military associates of the young soldier : 



324 FARTHEST NORTH. 

[Order, No. 46.] 

Headquarters Twenty-third Infantry, ) 
Fort Wayne, Mich., July 25, 1884' f 

Another name is added to the list of our honored 
dead. The official announcement is received from the 
War Department of the death of First-Lieutenant 
James B. Lockwood, at Camp Clay, near Cape Sabine, 
Smith's Sound, Arctic regions, April 9, 1884. He 
was assigned to this regiment as second lieutenant, 
October 1, 1873, and promoted first lieutenant March 
15, 1883. He served with distinction throughout 
Arizona, Nebraska, Kansas, the Indian Territory, and 
Colorado, always performing with zeal and thorough- 
ness the various and complex duties that usually fall 
to the lot of the young officer. In 1881 he turned 
from the arduous duties and savage warfare of frontier 
life to face still greater hardship and danger, and 
finally to lay down his life in those frozen and inhos- 
pitable regions which have proved the sepulchre of so 
many heroes before him. 

Lieutenant Lockwood was a young officer of great 
promise in his profession ; of a noble and exalted char- 
acter, his fine mind tended constantly to the investi- 
gation of scientific truths. When the privations, the 
suffering, and the achievements of the " Lady Frank- 
lin Bay Expedition " are fully related, higher author- 
ity will doubtless pay a more fitting tribute to the 
worth, the fortitude, and the matchless courage of an 
officer who, in Arctic exploration, has carried the 
American flag to a point in advance of that of any 
other nation. 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 325 

His reward is an imperishable fame, which he 
sought with even greater resolution than leads the 
soldier to the cannon's month. The pleasant smile 
and manly form of onr comrade are lost to ns forever, 
but his name and memory will be always green in our 
hearts. 

Officers of the regiment will wear the usual badge 
of mourning for thirty days. 

By order of Colonel Black : 

T. G. M. Smith, 
First Lieutenant and Adjutant Twenty -third In- 
fantry. 

When the news of Lockwood's fate was known at 
Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, arrangements were at once 
made, by those who had known and loved him there, 
to erect a tablet to his memory in the handsome post 
chapel at that place. When completed it was placed 
in a conspicuous position, and bore the following in- 
scription : 

In Memoeiam 

JAMES B. LOOKWOOD, 

FIEST LIEUTENANT TWENTT-THTRD EOANTEY, 

a mehbeb of the 
Geeely Polae Expedition, 

Died at Cape Sabine, Geinnell Land, 

April 9, 1884. 

This tablet was erected chiefly at the expense of 
Lockwood's old regiment. To one of the officers Gen- 
eral Lockwood presented a sword that had belonged to 



326 FARTHEST NORTH. 

his son, and, in his acknowedgment, that officer made 
this remark : "As a friend of your son, I shall take 
pride and comfort from haying in my possession the 
sword of a friend, who lived so nobly and died so 
honorably. Should yon desire it to come back to your 
family when I have joined your son, I hope you will 
tell me so, and I will provide accordingly." Among 
those who earnestly co-operated with this gentleman in 
erecting the tablet was one who wrote to his fellow- 
officer as follows : " No two people, outside of Lock- 
wood's own blood relations, loved him more than you 
and I. And yet I do not know that I am right in 
calling his end untimely. He died, as he had ever 
lived, in the discharge of his duty, and I imagine, 
when the records of the expedition become more 
known, it will be seen that his duty was well done 
to the end. He was a man, and has died like one. 
God grant that when our time comes it may find us, 
too, in the discharge of our duty ! " 

During Lieutenant Greely's sojourn in Portsmouth, 
when on his way home, and while yet too feeble to 
use the pen, he dictated the following letter to Gen- 
eral Lockwood : 

Portsmouth, N. H., August 9, I884. 

My dear General Lockwood : Had I not seen 
Commander Sigsbee, and given to him such informa- 
tion as he wished, and as I knew would be most im- 
portant to you in regard to your son, I should have 
attempted an earlier letter to you. I am still unable 
to write to you by my own hand. As I told Com- 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 327 

mander Sigsbee, James died from water around the 
heart, induced by insufficient nutrition. His last 
days were quiet and painless. He did his whole duty 
as a soldier and an officer. His loyalty to truth, 
fidelity, and zeal could always be relied upon by me. 
His unyarying kindness, his gentleness, his deep in- 
terest in and toward the men of the expedition indi- 
cated a nature thoroughly imbued with the essential 
and fundamental principles of Christianity, and won 
for him their good-will, confidence, and affection. I 
feel that you and Mrs. Lockwood may well be proud 
of such a son. His daily conyersation during the past 
winter told us how much he loyed his parents, and 
how deep and close were the bonds of affection which 
united him to his sisters and brother. He seemed to 
feel that he had not done full justice to the many and 
great adyantages that you had giyen him, and hoped 
to make amends in the future. His innate modesty 
in this, as in other matters, I think did scant justice 
to his true merits. I write by Mrs. Greely's hand — 
she joins me in sympathy and condolence. I feel that 
this letter insufficiently informs you regarding James. 
From day to day he intended to write you, but delayed 
too long. His diary, in short-hand, was kept up, I 
belieye, to the day preceding his death. 
Sincerely yours, 

A. W. GREELY. 

Another letter from Portsmouth, written by Ser- 
geant I). L. Brainard in answer to some inquiries 
made by General Lockwood, was as follows : 



328 FARTHEST NORTH. 

Portsmouth, N. H., September £, 1884. 

General H. H. Lockwood. 

Deae Sik : Your letter of the 22d ult., request- 
ing information of the missing effects of your dear 
son, which had been committed to my care, is just 
received. . . . The effects in question, excepting the 
ring and coins, I turned over to Major Greely before 
leaving this city in August. The two latter articles 
I afterward found and gave to Mrs. Peck, who, with 
her husband, called on me at the Parker House, in 
Boston. The setting of the ring, I am sorry to say, 
was not found after his death, although diligent search 
was made. He had spoken of it but a few days before 
his death, and expressed great concern for its safety. 
It was supposed to be suspended from his neck in a 
small parcel, but search revealed nothing. The com- 
pass was among the effects I transferred to Lieutenant 
Greely, as were also two pencils, his pipe, spoon, knife, 
etc. With reference to the inner life of your son, do 
not feel any concern. Although not an open professor 
of any particular creed, he followed closely the golden 
rule during my acquaintance with him. When I 
reach Washington I shall be glad to call on you. In 
the mean time I shall willingly answer any question 
with regard to his life in the frigid zone that you may 
desire to ask. Place no reliance on any of the adverse 
newspaper reports that are occasionally seen reflecting 
on his conduct ; they are not worthy of a moment's 
thought. Hoping that the articles have reached you 
in safety ere this, I am, very sincerely yours, 

D. L. Bkaijstaed. 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 329 

Another and a very handsome letter sent to Gen- 
eral Lockwood by an officer of the army, who had 
long known the son, was as follows : 

" San Antonio, Fla., July 25, I884. 

"My deae Gekeeal : The newspapers tardily 
convey to me the news of yonr son's heroic death. I 
can not express to you how much both my wife and 
myself were affected by this intelligence. I knew 
your son from his entry into the Twenty-third Infant- 
ry in 1873 until I was promoted to the Twenty-sec- 
ond in 1879, and formed so high an estimate of his 
sterling soldierly character that it is inexpressibly sad 
to think of his career being cut short at so early an 
age. But, though early, he has nevertheless left his 
mark on the scientific record of the country — a rec- 
ord which can never perish while the frozen North 
continues to hold the secrets he has more nearly 
penetrated than any other explorer of those regions. 
This must be, my dear general, some consolation to 
you, though I well know that it can not wholly atone 
for the loss of your noble son. But, as time passes, 
this reflection may soften your paternal grief. 

" A life-work need not extend to the allotted 
threescore years and ten. In the providence of God 
it often compasses a much smaller period of time ; 
when it is accomplished, God calls the worker home. 

"Who shall measure the work your son accom- 
plished in the examples he gave of fidelity to duty, of 
heroic fortitude ? How many fainting souls in the 
future, reading of his devotion, will be strengthened 



330 FARTHEST NORTH. 

to go forward in the paths marked out for them ! 
That your grief may be in time assuaged by these re- 
flections is the prayer devoutly offered by your sin- 
cere friend." 

Many private letters of condolence and sympathy 
were written to the parents of the deceased, by per- 
sonal friends and others, some of which serve to illus- 
trate the character of the departed. One of these 
friends wrote as follows : 

" The tender regard and sincere love I had for 
James prompts me to write to you and express my 
heart-felt sorrow in losing him. We were dear friends 
for years, and a more upright and honorable man 
never lived, and our regiment has lost a member who 
can never be replaced, and the memory of him who 
died far away from us can never be forgotten." 
In another letter a friend wrote as follows : 
"Dr. B , U. S. A., one of James's most inti- 
mate and best friends, desires me to say that, of all the 
men he knew, James was to him far dearer than any 
other. As for myself, I shall always hold James dear 
to my heart, and hope some day, when all things pass 
away, to meet him in that happy land where our loved 
ones are gone." 

In another letter occurs the following : 
"Lockwood was among the best young officers of 
the regiment. Very attentive to duty, and correct in 
habits, his promise of usefulness was unusually great. 
I hope that the knowledge of duty well performed, 
and under the most trying circumstances, may in 
some degree ameliorate your great grief." 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 331 

Another friend writes : 

"I but echo the feelings of all in the Twenty- 
third Infantry who knew your son, in saying that 
your great loss is partly theirs. His kindly and gener- 
ous impulses, his sterling integrity, and his thorough- 
ness as an officer and a gentleman, secured and retained 
for him the substantial good-will and friendship of 
all. And while we may grieve at the mournful end 
of his career, yet this feeling is somewhat neutralized 
in the melancholy satisfaction of knowing that he 
died on the field of honor." 

In another letter from one who had been in the 
army and on the staff of General Lockwood at Acco- 
mac, Va., occurs the following most admirable and 
appropriate passage : " I do believe, dear general, 
that all is well with your son. Standing where no 
human footstep had ever trod before, seeing what no 
eye had ever before beheld, alone amid the awful si- 
lence of that frozen deep — alone with God — there 
must have been communings with the Holy One of 
more import to James than all else besides. And at 
the last day you will again see your son in glory, wear- 
ing the crown of those made perfect through suffer- 
ing." 

Besides the many letters written by personal 
friends, there were others from perfect strangers, who 
had either served under General Lockwood in the 
army, or been especially interested in the fate of the 
youthful hero. 

Among the strangers who wrote letters of con- 
dolence was the Rev. "William E. Griffis, D. D., of 



332 FARTHEST. NORTH. 

Schenectady, N. Y., who had preached a sermon on 
the conquests of peace, and in which he made the 
following allusion to Lieutenant Lockwood : "The 
laurels that repose on the memory of Lieutenant 
Lockwood are better than battle-honors or wreaths 
after bloody victories." It was his opinion that the 
Arctic secret would yet be won ; and that Lockwood 
and his brother heroes were doing the will of God as 
explorers in the far North. 

On the 20th of July, 1884, the Eev. Dr. John S. 
Lindsay, of St. John's Church, in Georgetown, deliv- 
ered a sermon in which he alluded to the return of 
the Greely Expedition, and especially to Lieutenant 
Lockwood, who had been one of his parishioners. 
He said : " Just a few days ago we were plunged 
into sorrow by the news that among the living of the 
latest Arctic expedition who had been rescued was 
not our young townsman, the son of one of the most 
honored members of this congregation ; the dispatch 
that brought the glad intelligence that six were saved 
was soon followed by the sad announcement that he, 
vigorous as he was, had sunk under the rigors of the 
climate, worn out by work and want. Has he left 
no lesson for you and me, for all his fellow-men ? 
Think of his ceaseless endeavor, of the courage and 
devotion with which he bore the brunt of the explo- 
ration, and wore away his own strength in seeking 
food for his comrades and himself ! See him, with 
a single companion, penetrating nearer to the north 
pole than any other man had ever gone, however dar- 
ing ! When he had done his whole duty, more than 








' aOQMSaOTST 

01dX3 3H1 DNIMOHS 



iizti xiaano am 



THE WOEFUL RETURN. 333 

had ever been done before, be lies down to rest — to 
die. 

"Most fittingly did bis brother explorers give his 
name to this spot, the farthest land north trod by 
Iruman foot. Lockwood Island shall stand, as long as 
the earth endures, amid the awful wastes and silence 
of these mysterious regions, as the monument of this 
brave young soldier. A child of the Church, the sub- 
ject of ceaseless prayer — of yours, of mine, of his fam- 
ily — we trust that his spirit, chastened and exalted 
by the hardships he endured, winged its flight from 
the inhospitable land that refused sustenance to his 
body, and now rests and waits in the paradise of God. 
We mingle our tears with his father's and his mother's, 
and with those of all who loved him ; but out of the 
deep we rejoice in the record he has left behind of de- 
votion to duty even unto death. Surely no life is 
short in which so much is done, or in vain that gives 
such instruction and such inspiration to other lives. 
In conclusion, let us not cast away our faith in God, 
because of the mysteries and trials and sufferings of 
life." 



THE EKD. 



